Ruston

Cheers, Mike. That's decided it then. I'll build it all rigid and keep it simple.

I made a start. I usually grease the screws for fear that they will get soldered up but I decided to live life on the edge and fit them dry.

They've all unscrewed and none of the nuts have fallen off. Yet.

16 hours ago, Michael Edge said:

Alternatively drive on the centre axle and if the gearbox is too high it can hide under the control desk.

I think that's what I may do. It wouldn't be possible if I was to spring that axle but as the rods are designed to be built as one piece items I'm not going to bother with springing the centre axle. I'll just build the chassis as intended, cram the body full of weight and see how it goes.

Or... Would compensation still work with the solid rods and could both outer axles rest on knife edges, or would that be too unstable?

13 minutes ago, AlfaZagato said:

If I'm reading the blueprint correctly, vs. how you have it staged, you plan to mount the motor under/in the cab?  What would your goal be for that?  Does it offer more space for sound/keep-alive?

The motor won't go under the cab. The cab floor will have to be altered so that the motor can go there but it won't be seen from normal viewing angles. To be honest, it's only because I've got that gearbox made up as it is. I'll have a root around and see what else I've got that could fit without faffing with the floor. I'm thinking that the speaker can go between the frame plates at one end and the decoder and SA at the other. The large areas under the bonnets can be kept free to stuff full of lead sheet.

I said something about building something easy.

50-ton Hunslet diesel-hydraulic. Judith Edge kit.

Already I've got an idea to put the motor somewhere other than intended but the three axles there were made for me by @5050 for a project that never really got going and are begging to be put to use, so I may as well use them here. They are made from something like 7 Gibson axles and are for use with a split chassis. That means I've already given myself one headache. I'd also like to spring the centre axle to compensate for my poor trackwork. Paxolin frame spacers, tape under the footplate and a layer of Plastikard on the insides of the buffer beams ought to insulate the frame sides from the body. I've only ever made one other split chassis loco before, so it'll all be a bit experimental.

I've a feeling that it isn't going to be that easy. 🤔

The prototype that I want to build is HE 7410 that worked at British Oak and it is slightly different, cosmetically, to what the ordinarily builds into, so that's another bit of trouble that I've given myself.

It has more handrails and a massive thick slab of a footplate, which the kit doesn't cater for. Brass strip soldered to the outside could be the answer.

It lives!

Zimo MS500, with Jinty sound project, Youchoos 5x15x11mm speaker and Lais Kungfu Stay Alive. I weathered the frames, wheels and brake gear with the wheels out, so that's the weathering done now on the chassis.

The body has yet to be completed, with a few small tasks to attend to and then I'm looking into getting some custom transfers made (easier said than done!) before weathering it.

That ought to be able to pull anything asked of it on Blacker Lane.

On 18/04/2024 at 18:15, Ruston said:

I'm going to build something easy, next time. Something straightforward and that doesn't involve fixing RTR parts or 3D printing.

I have one of Mr. Edge's kits lined up next, but I have been having a look through my photo collection and Harman Vol.2 at other Manning Wardles. I've found an absolute beast of an engine that I'm sure can use the same running plate, cylinders and brake gear that I have made for this project, so I'm now considering a complete scratchbuild,

Brakes.

It has a motor and it has run on tethered DC to test it. It has also been pushed around the layout by another engine to test that it doesn't fall off the track now that the flanges are much smaller than they were at the start.

Still to do:

Brakes.

Cab steps

Injectors/pipework

whistle

cylinder ends

reach rod

couplings

Crew

Coal in bunker

Glazing

Fill/fix/sort dodgy-looking bits

Sand/repaint some areas where print lines are still bad

Fit DCC gear

Weather (attempt to hide the remaining bad bits!)

Current weight 203g.

I'm going to build something easy, next time. Something straightforward and that doesn't involve fixing RTR parts or 3D printing.

This is work that I didn't really need to do but when I made the frame overlays I made them full frame depth, not taking into account how the Hornby chassis block isn't full depth, due to the keep making up part of the overall depth. It means that I can't use the original keep and pickups.

The new one slots nicely between the overlays. The 12BA screws are screwed into the Paxolin and protrude the other side to make contact with the sprung plungers in the chassis block. This makes it, like the original, removable without being tethered by wires. It only picks up on 4 wheels because it would be a lot more trouble to add pickups for the centre wheelset and as the loco will be DCC with Stay Alive, it's not going to cause any difficulty with pick up.

The other parts are cylinder gland, slide bars and motion bracket for one side. I have had to make these because the Hornby slide bars can't be transferred to the new cylinders and are impossible to solder. I don't know what metal they're made of but no matter what I tried last time they simply refused to solder to anything.

1 hour ago, AlfaZagato said:

I wasn't aware there was a distinction.  I've only seen 'N20' mentioned in regards to the ones with the gearboxes.

As far as I'm aware, these codes are only for the motors. I've seen N30, too, which is the same width and shape as the N20, but longer.

I was saving this coreless motor for something else, but I'll use it in this MW instead. It will give plenty of power and be smoother overall. I have chopped out part of the boiler casting to get it to fit as it's about 5mm longer than the N20 and it will need to be epoxied in place. Because of that I will ensure that everything associated with the pickups, wheels and motion are working perfectly before fitting it.

I have some thin-walled brass tube to use as stubs to be soldered to the frame overlays to carry the brake hangers, so fitting those is the next job. The brake assemblies can then push into the tube stubs and be held by Loctite.

3 hours ago, AlfaZagato said:

Should be fine.   I think some on here have done sizable 7mm with N20s.

N20 attached to one of those integral brass and steel gearboxes, certainly,  but the N20 on it own wouldn't move much at all in O gauge.  

With the integral gearbox they are incredibly torqey at the output shaft but  Hornby use only the motor and a fairly high gear ratio. 

The cab isn't exactly straight along its lower edge. Simply screwing it to the running plate isn't going to work, so I'll try screws and epoxy in an attempt to close the gap between cab and footplate. It obviously means that the two assemblies will permanently become one but I can't be having such a gap. If the printed parts were used as intended they would sit in a recess in the printed running plate and the bend would never be visible but there you go...

I may have said this the last time I built one of these but I won't do another like this. It seems like a good idea to use a RTR mechanism and 3D-printed bodywork but when you try and blend the two, with scratchbuilt improvements, made from brass it's a load of work. I could have just scratchbuilt things such as the cab and the tank and it would have probably been less hassle to do so. It's things such as making boiler fittings where I tend to come unstuck. 3D printing large items with proper straight edges in this resin, or whatever it is, simply isn't a proper engineering solution. Anyway, it is what it is and I will have to persevere with it.

Balance weights added. 5 thou plasticard.

A little more progress with the MW build.

I have been sanding print lines and doing a test fit of the printed body parts to the brass running plate assembly. The cab floor has been made from 60 thou. engraving brass, drilled and tapped for a pair of 12BA screws. A 'floor' has also been made for the bottom of the smokebox, also drilled and tapped 12BA. These brass floors will be epoxied into the printed parts and screws will then affix the body to the running plate.

Lead sheet has been glued into the tank sides and bunker floor. There is enough space in the tank to fit a decoder and speaker, with a Lais Stay Alive fitted in the firebox, which leaves the smokebox to be stuffed with lead. Extra lead can be added to the bunker, too and I'm confident that the original weight can be easily achieved.

I have made all the replacement brake parts but have yet to assemble and fit them. New cylinder glands, slide bars and motion bracket will be required as the Hornby parts will not fit the new cylinders.

What did I say about the office cat doing the research at Hornby these days? 🙄 No Kit-e-Kat for him or her tonight.

Hang on... I haven't seen a photo of the cab rear on this particular model. Have they really done it without rear windows?

On 16/03/2024 at 20:03, kevsmiththai said:

One happy grandson ( in his Christmas present, An orange Hi-vis) finally gets to see loco 2

 

 

Do you know the works number and year of this one? Was it an actual Thomas Hill build or did they rebuild it from a Rolls Royce/Sentinel? The profile of the engine casing looks to be Sentinel but the cab looks typical TH, albeit much taller than usual.

The Low Moor Iron Co., in Bradford, had at least 3 3ft. 10 1/2in. gauge Manning Wardle locos that were designed to shunt standard gauge wagons on mixed gauge track.

2 hours ago, rorz101uk said:

Interesting that the own has fitted vacuum bag, I’m sure it can’t make a brake tho?

Vacuum brake equipment was fitted back in the early 90s, when this loco was based at the Middleton Railway, Leeds.

Will the Ruston be able to pull that wagon? 🙂

The wrappers for the cylinders are made from 5 thou. Plastikard so that they can be dented and scraped. You see so many pictures of industrial steam locos with battered cylinder wrappers but no one ever models them that way.

The Manning that I'm basing this model on had 17x24" cylinders and the B2's 14x22" would look too small and puny and so I am making new cylinders. I don't have a drawing to work from, so it's being done by eye and by comparing what's on other models, such as the Pi Victory (17x24") and the Hattons Barclay (16x24"). Mine are larger than what's on the Victory but not as large as what is on the Barclay but then I've always wondered if Hattons got the cylinders right on that model as they look huge.