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Hi 30368, The 'cover' isn't a cover, its a surround for the series 1 merchants which didn't have the fairing behind the chimney. 34016

Hi Chas, the only option I can see is to move the bearings in by 1mm each. That's what I would do.

Hi all, I've fitted the motor bogie into an old lima GWR railcar for testing and I'm pleased with the results. I've taken a couple of videos showing the somewhat limited running of my test track.

More updates on the bogies coming soon, hopefully with a video showing one working.

Excellent work Chas, they're exceptional.

The fixing is similar to a tenshodo. It's not fitted to the mock up in the last photos. The nut is soldered to the half etched hexagon and the pivot and rubbing plates are soldered over the nut. The height can be adjusted by using more or less of the rubbing plates. The worm and gear are small, but they seem to work ok. The only issue is the gear comes with a 1mm bore, so I need to either drill them out or mount them on 1mm rod with 2mm tube either side, I'll put some pictures of this up soon.

Same as the mock up I did earlier in the thread. Motors and gears imported from china. At least that's the plan.

A little while ago I mentioned (in this thread) that I was looking into producing motor bogie kits as there seem to be limited options available. The photos below show an 15:1 8' 6" bogie ideal for DMU's. Its a fold up design with a separate bottom plate and side frame mounting. There are alterations to made, particularly to the side frame mount, as its a bit flimsy, but it seems to work ok. Other wheelbases are 6' 6" and 7' and they'll all be available at 15:1 or 20:1 (hopefully). I'm putting this here as there has been some discussion on the subject. Further posts will be in the motors and drive systems area. opinions would be greatly appreciated.

The sentinel etches look fantastic, if only I'd known.....

I've finally done the photos of the finished models and they will be on their way to their new home next week. I've done one with the front windows open and one with them shut. In conclusion I think they've come out pretty well considering it's a kit that was developed in the Seventies. I wish I'd known about the etched sides and fronts that are available as I think they would have made things a lot easier. I don't know how long the tenshodo bogies will last due to the weight, they are sluggish to start, but do get going once they've warmed up a bit. I'm going ahead with the motor bogies kits mentioned earlier that will hopefully be better. More about that in another thread. I've enjoyed doing the thread and thank you to all who contributed and clicked the various buttons. My next thread will be a loco kit, not sure which one yet though. 34016

Hi Chas, It was all left overs from various etchings that have accumulated over the years.

Hi Chas, One of the kits was fairly recent and the other older. The later roof was a bit thinner and the overall weights of both seem to reflect this - 396g & 425g

The last job on the railcars is the grills over the windows at the non motor end. I had already drilled the holes prior to painting, so using a piece of paper over the holes I pierced the holes to make a template (they're all slightly different so I've got to do it four times). I then placed the paper on a piece of wood and, using a .5mm drill, I made some holes in the wood. I then made the horizontal bars from .45mm wire and pushed them into the holes in the wood. I used .3mm wire for the vertical bars and soldered a piece centrally to the horizontal bars. Sorry its a bit blurred. I then used a piece of 1mm square nickel silver to space the remaining vertical bars, soldering them in place. Then it's just a case of trimming the ends and fitting them to the models. The next pictures will definitely be of finished models!

So I haven't quite finished the railcars, so no pictures of them just yet. I have managed to sort out the running though. Although sluggish at first, once going they seem fine. In the meantime I've been experimenting with producing my own motor bogies. I've drawn them up in CAD with wheelbases 26mm, 28mm & 34mm, and ratios of 15:1 & 20:1. They will take different motor sizes, N20, N30, M30 & M50. I've made a mock up of a 28mm/20:1 bogie as below. I'm going to get a few laser cut and I'll post pictures when I get them.

I have the isinglass drawing of the dia 96/97 which shows the roof is clearly quite 'domed'. Not sure why I didn't think of it earlier.

I had to adjust the profile of the roof on, as the two halves didn't match. I'm not sure which profile is correct, but it may be possible to flatten the ally one maybe?

I wish I'd thought of the aluminium roof!

The glazing is now underway. The first picture shows the 1mm acrylic taped over the print prior to scoring. I started using a scalpel with a no 15 blade, but couldn't get the acrylic to snap along the lines, so I changed to a larger craft knife and it worked ok. A little fettling was required to get the glazing in, I cut the pieces very slightly oversize. Its easier to trim them down than have them dropping through the opening. I'll go over the windows with gloss varnish, which will take away the superglue stains (I hope). The next pictures should be of two finished models.

Both models have now had a coat of varnish and I'm now trying to make my own flush glaze. I've drawn all the window outlines in Autocad and printed it out. Clear acetate is taped over the print and I then cut out the windows with a scalpel. This didn't work very well as the acetate was too thin. So I ordered some 1mm clear acrylic and its working better. More pics to follow.

The non powered bogie is attached using a 7mm length of 3mm o/d, 2mm i/d tube as the pivot, washers to adjust the height and a nut to retain it all. I've run two pieces of .7mm wire between the bogies to replace the temporary wiring. Fine flexible wire is then run to each bogie from the end of each wire.

The lining is now done, although it looks a bit ragged at the front, but that's only in the picture. Now starting to add the transfers.

I can't say I'm over happy with the performance yet. It takes full throttle to get them moving, but you can reduce that once there's a bit of momentum.

I'll see if I can find a drawing for the frames.

Yes I've read that, it was the reason I went with the green. A bit of tidying up to do and I may go over it again, but I could mess it up so maybe not.

I've started adding the green lining in the panels. I wasn't sure whether to or not as I didn't think I could get it fine enough, but I think its ok, just a bit of tidying up to do. I used a bow pen and ruler and thinned the paint so that it would run well.