Rhys

You certainly could buy them assembled ands painted, but they were done to order as far as I know, and not in a batch. To my mind they don't qualify as brass models, more professionally assembled kits.

From my recolections, there were 100 models made, and I think only one of each number plus some spares. I recall seeing a list somewhere of the names of the orginalowners (but can't recall where, might have meen the NZMRJ). the only other brass model made was a 30' guards van, which was a run of 200 pieces. These are all from locally made kits (either etched brass or white metal).

Just thought I would add my 2 cents having had some practical experience with this sort of thing. One thing that you want to think about is what sort of effect you are after. With the real thing when you are standing beside the track the sound you hear mostly is the track joint closest to you. With a model you can see and hear the whole length of the train and you will get overwhelmed by the 'clicks' very fast and it just will not work. I used it on a TTn3.5 layout (TT on N guage for 3'6" NZR) and cut one pair of deep knicks with a triangular file right through the railhead at the top of a grade where the train slowed to take the curve to head off stage. It was very effective even with plastic peco wheels. My suggestion would be (depending on the size of the layout) to do 2-3 well separated locations (ie close to your average train length) close to where your favoruite operating positions are. This should give you the best effect.

Can't remember if I have asked this before, so I appologise in advance. Can anyone tell me the spacings between the axles on the 14xx chassis kit. I'm pondering using one for another project. Also, is there a source for separate 6 wheel tender underframe etches?

Cheers for that, though I was looking for older prototypes (and only one level).

Can anyone point me in the direction of bus models in 3mm (or 2.5mm for that matter). I've been searching but have not come across anything suitable.

In the Manawatu. Modeling a mix of NZ120 and 2mm

After a bit more examination of the rael thing, I think that a large problem is trying to include too much. The bridge over the inlet is 1km south of the station, so trying to include it I think is a bit of a stretch. in your selected time period how much fish traffic was there? And were the lines on the Quays still used? if so, for what?

I would agree with Missy that 'less is more'. The plan as it stands is far too complicated, and I don't think it is going to capture Padstow (well, acording to the trackplan in the links in your previous post). I'll now just toss out some random thoughts (its late Friday night here so theres a few beers behind this). If I was designing a track plan for this, I would locate the station bulding in the center (or maginally offset) and include the wharf trackage as well. It helps set the scene. I would have a hard think about how you are going to operate this (and not just at exhibitions). How are you going to shunt the sidings without a decent length backshunt? You say that you would like to take it to some local shows. Your plan here might work for an exhibition, but it also has to work for the other 360 days of the year when its not at an exhibition. With your space avaliable, Is it possible to use the back wall of the garage for the fiddle yard (putting the layout into an L shape)? If its behind the layout it is not going to be easily accessable for operation. If you could run the main line across the bridge For my current layout Paekakariki (NZ prototype) I made a 3D scale model (ah la Barry Norman) to see if it would work visually. I'm not convinced that your current plan will 'work' The layout is N gauge (TT scale) and 12' long not counting the staging yards. Even having built this, There are still things I would want to change now, but can't for a variety of reasons (mostly space and baseboard geometry). Cheers, Rhys. (Sorry this is a bit blunt, its just how us Kiwi's are made)

I was looking at this and just wondered what it would look like if the entire running line and loop were on a curve. I don't think it would take up too much more space, and it would be more visually interesting from a viewing and photography point of view.

Not quite true. Most of the standard issue British tanks were movable by rail if some parts were removed (and this only applies to the Churchill and Cromwell tanks). For a detailed description http://www.movcon.org.uk/History/Documents/DID/D-MCHS%200140.htm

I've been following this thread for a while now. The one question I really have is "is there anyone offering a better service?" You have spent quite a bit of time refining the CAD files for the models, and its doing them a huge disservice IMHO to print them out at a poor resolution. I ask simpy as out here in the colonies we have acess to much better resolution RP printing with very fine resolutions. surely there are similar setups in the UK?

I must admit to having been seduced by TT scale a long time ago (in its narrow guage TTn3.5 form). Ho just doesn't do it for me. its not as detailed as O, and you still need a stack of space to fit a decent layout in anyway. With the smaller scales you get to have an acceptable level of detail, and also model outside the railway border fence.

If i may offer some comment; What I would consider doing is respraying the foreground trees a shade of green closer to the ones used on the backscene, and possibly look at recolouring the ground cover on the right hand side of the picture to a paler green. The fence looks very good colour wise and does match the backscene nicely. Also under the trees on the left there is a light area which could be darkened a bit, possibly by extending the colours of the backscene trees down to the baseboard level. Drybrush the main station building top fade its colours a bit, and you will have something that looks more 'matched'. For the tarmak, try drybrushing it with some lighter greys and maybe an attack with some fine sandpaper to wear it out a bit. Remember its all a learning process, and its not going to be perfect first time every time. Just have a go and don't lose heart. You are not happy with it currently so theres not much to lose, and if nothing else you will learn something. Cheer's Rhys Motorisedandruff.blogspot.com