deadlyduck

Let me know if you want anymore Lima.I have quite a bit

david

The reason i use 1/8" is that i can lay thin double sided foam tape,this then acts as the cess + as its 1/8" cork the tape rises to the correct level,I will then be using various ideas like static grass + earth colours to build up a scene beyond the track.have go at the track laying i think you will ,with a bit of practice get a bit of joy when ballasting,instead of the O No syndrome

david

Yes im the same dont like ballasting.So devised a way to ballast.First you lay your track then put as big a piece of cork that you can,i use 1/8" then you can cut or mark it with a pencil/pen.I then treat all that cork with undiluted PVA put it under the track pin it down then put the ballast on the top.Pushing the centre vallast down with fingers.Leave overnight then vacuuum the loose ballast.for the point i do them individually as you can treat the cork to areas that you want to.It takes some practise,like all things but the end results are as good if not better than the old ways.which like yourself i hated doing.1 thing to note gat the consistancy correct when you are gluing the cork.I started off on small track/cork.when i had the confidence i moved straight onto 3m pieces even curved Peco ns Streamline.the 1 thing its a bit messy but has saved me hours n hours of mundane ballasting.have a go see what you think

david

Hello i say this to most modellers it always a god idea (if Possible)to join a club as you can talk over your concerns to someone who can actually see your problem 1st hand.In regards to decoders the basic ones are not going to give the flexibility that more expensive ones will.If you like to rearrange CVs these are the kind of decoders you will want.Ive said many times though there is no tables you can read up on as to which decoder is the best or most reliable or what motor it can be the best with.Personally i use Zimos,TCSs because they are easy to fit stay alive modules + ESUs but the top of the range 1s.as you have found out it cab be a bit of a lottery ive been through it myself.All we really need is for someone to come up with i list of all of them with some sort of a table.At least then we could have some idea of which does what.Want a rundown of a loco its all there down to the rivets

Hi could i ask you what are your main comcerns ?

Hi try to vacuum the area you have cleaned

David

Hello, i would take a look at the article on MDF on the Wikipedia website as to the harmful long term effects it can cause.If not treated with a great deal of respect

David

I would be very wary about using MDF.Its a dangerous material when not treated with the utmost repect.The glue that is used in the process  contains Urea Formaldehyde.which is released when cutting or planing it.this can last months if the material is not sealed with paint,or something similar soon after.Its carsenagenic,(cancercausing Agant),but also causes problems to eyes n lungs.You are suppose to wear proper facemasks when using in a confined space.Also remember any entrance through MDF screw holes nails lets the Formaldehyde seep out,unless you seal it as you go.Take a look at world reports about this material before you think of using it

Personally ive never nor will ever use MDF.My layout is built with 4mm marine plywood