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Blog Comments posted by Coombe Barton
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From memory it's probably a local Devonian period limestone, not granite. Probably quarried from Hooe or Brixhan areas, or maybe Buckfastleigh.
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Placed three orders:
- Brass wire from Eileen's (arrived)
- Silver steel assortment as recommended by Nick (waiting)
- 0.2mm drills for the holes for the brass wire over the cab windows (waiting)
And decided to get a range of metric sizes of silver steel rather than imperial.
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Sainsbury's Basics cream cleaner
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Nick - already measured - and 1/8" is the chosen bending agent.
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I try and cut as far as I can from the part then trim using some really sharp end cutters, then file. If you cut close then agree there is potential for deformation.
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My wife has some compartmented boxes she bought but now doesn't have a use for them, so she offered them to me. I can't find a use for them. They're marketed by loads of people for storing small parts and bits such as we seem to collect. However whenever I've tried using them and then try to retrieve something from them it's a tweezer job and then they small part stands a chance of pinging somewhere over your left shoulder (other body parts are available). Then when (not of) you drop the box you have many hundreds pf parts to find and relocate. I find the jars I mentioned in Part One or the test tubes are better, as you can empty one (and only one at a time) into your hand and have a chance of getting the stuff back in its own compartment. The compartmented boxes have their place, but I feel that the separate, individual and usually small storage is better for needs such as ours. One condition needs to be applied - they have to have secure tops so that if you do upset them you stand a chance og not spending the next three hours sorting through a pile of small parts.
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Don't know. The booklet that was provided back in the 80s contains the same information as the various copied pages in the kit it is't a booklet any more. Guy Williams praised the substantial box, and that's still there, as are the etching wrapped in tissue paper.
It certainly seems a better put together offering than the Churchward, having a nickel silver chassis rather than brass. I suppose I'll find out when I build it.
However I have discovered that the Churchward instructions are inkjet printed rather than photocopied - a drip of water proved that.
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Buffalo - I thought I had cleaned the lamp irons up but have finished the job post installation with a grinding wheel in a Dremel. Light touch and it worked. Made sure it only touched the lamp iron with a little inventiveness with a vice or two and a flexible drive.
Martin - good idea - thanks - will reinforce with angle before I go much further.
PD&SWJR - I'll take your advice and put in some brass angle.
And there is a difference - as Horestan says they're a different generation. the 44xx Mitchell kit I have from David Geen is a different beastie. although the instruction copying still leaves a bit to be desired. It's certainly not the booklet that Guy Williams described in MRJ 32.
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Possible to use magnets, but the rust problem you've already mentioned. If you're adding more velcro then that adds complexity - and cuphooks and rings are cheap, probably the cheapest solution.
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Yes, John, all the diagrams and instructions say Malcolm Mitchell.
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Horsetan said much the same thing about the change of ownership when I met him at Scaleforum, Tim.
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This is exceptional! SWMBO thinks so as well.
Plans for Abbotsbury goods shed in Great Western Branch LIne Terminii |Vol 2 (Paul Karau) - listings from Amazon. Pics and one side and one end elevation but no back elevation. Pics as well, but only a couple with detail good enough to model from with any degree of accuracy.
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So next year ....
Great little show - congratulations, Andy. So pleased that you made money.
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Then why are most picture frames natural wood?
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And me - EMGS templates for my paper mapping. Then I used xTrak-CAD for mine as it's only a small layout. That was after making the cock-up.
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Really like this - has a bit of a Hemlock feel about it.
Just one thing before you go on though - the turnout/doubleslip/turnout as you've drawn looks a bit short. Looking at your scale it seems more 4mm than 7mm in length. (I know - I've made the cock-up in P4 and am currently trying to sort out the mess I've managed to generate) If you haven't already done so you may see it better and to scale if you use something like Templot to draw it out - the hard work's done for you with the sizes.
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A lot of corrosion on lamp posts is causes by the acidic substance Nonapotassic Phosphide - in formula terms K9P
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Will the branch be operated by the GWR or will it be independant? (Which would be an excellent excuse or one of High Levels small saddletanks ).
Either. I have my eye on the little Neilson from High Level.
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That is the engine shed - controlled (notionally) by a trackside lever. Lever 13 is a good candidate for model mechanisation.
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Thanks guys.
I've been testing the durability (both intentionally and unintentionally) of plastic trays for various acids and solvents. I'm now going to graduate to stainless steel dog bowls all round (couple of quid from a supermarket) to hold the solvents/paints/thinners etc. Much more durable and cleanable. Will post more when I have the new design built.
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I seem to have missed this over on the old RMweb - this sounds like a very interesting project, now added to favourite blogs!
Are you familiar with Chris Baker's superb "Much Meddling"? His work seems to have a number of things in common with your plans (including working point rodding, illustrated with a short video on his site - although I see you have dropped that idea). It's all here:
Thanks for this. I dropped the idea because of other constructional factors I've introduced (more later in the blog) so it's become impractical. I am still using cranks and pulleys, but on a larger scale and confining the above ground rodding to cosmetic.
I remember Much Meddling - thanks for the link.
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Prototype Pictures- Unseen Demolition Photos
in Kingsbridge Branch N
A blog by devondynosoar118 in RMweb Blogs
Posted
Confirming what I said previously from close-ups. Limestone, not granite.