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And another load taken while awaiting departure time; Thanks for your indulgence! Dave.

Luckily a photographer was on hand to record the arrival of the new old coaches at Charmouth. A number of photos were taken while shunting and running-round took place Sorry there's so many shots,but I couldn't decide which ones to leave out. That's my excuse anyway. Cheers, Dave.

The coach isnt finished, but its finished enough to be photographed; so here are my most up-to-date workshop photos. And the two versions of the same van at differing periods. Must try and remember not to run them together. I've put a few more photos on my Charmouth thread Cheers, Dave.

Many thanks, I'm very pleased with it. If your fancy turns to NG, take the plunge, the waters lovely! I've always attempted to keep within the bounds of possibility when freelance modelling. Plausible rather than too Whimsical, if I can achieve it. Cheers, Dave.

Looking very nice indeed Andrew, thanks for sharing it with us. Dave.T

Hi Richard, Lovely effects you've achieved; but a quick question abut the Warhammer paints. I've tried them but found them to be too quick-drying for weathering, what do you use to wash them off? I've always used Humbrols, dry-brushed on or applied ready diluted, and them washed/wiped off with white-spirit. Does white spirit work with the Warhammer paints? Quite agree; even if you don't want to slavishly follow his methods its hugely inspirational and full of ideas. He now has a website http://www.martynwelch.com/ and the Gallery section is well worth looking at for inspiration. Cheers, Dave.

That would be quite something wouldn't it. Not sure how the gravity aspect of it would work in 4mm scale, can you think of anyone who's tried it? The DMR kit can be had in 0-Gauge, and it make a VERY impressive model. Thanks very much Guys. Dave.

Basic weathering consisted of dry-brushing all over with (Humbrol enamel) mucky dark grey and dark brown, and then washing it off again with white spirit. Smokebox and horizontal surfaces were left unwashed. Once this was completed satisfactorily the detail bits, pipework etc were added, and this is the state we are now at. Individual areas still need working up with a bit more weathering, and the cab interior needs completing. I know I said the cab would be black inside based on a colour photo, but who's to say they were all like that and anyway the cream shows up better. Very pleased with the front bufferbeam, but should have dusted it before photographing... The injector pipework below the cab is whitemetal and very prone to getting bent with handling. I've added weight to the sidetanks, boiler, and under the cab floor, but its still a bit light. There's a couple of good big spaces inside the frames where blocks of lead could be fitted. Cheers, Dave.

The Marshwood Vale Railway's rebuild of the old Harbour Tramway brakevan is a utilitarian "Plain-Jane" of a vehicle, with only the decorative grills on the balcony railings left as a reminder of her former glory. The model is officially finished, although I'm sure I can find some more jobs to do on it. Just the matching coach to finish now. Cheers, Dave.

On locos with one toolbox, it moved from side to side at various times, and its exact position on the tank top varied as well! You cant beat finding a good dated photo and copying it. I've got quite a few, which number are you modelling? Its looking very nice indeed George. Cheers, Dave.

Thanks Tim, I will get some photos up later. And all the bits are now attached. I thought your Stationmaster's Garden was pretty stunning too. Cheers, Dave.

Hi Ozzy & George, The vac pipe was pivoted, so it could be swung out of the vertical and lean against the buffer to give clearance for the Smokebox door to open. Several photos show it left this way if not required. That would depend on the period modelled. The chimney on the model is the early Adams chimney, 30089 in the photo has a later Drummond chimney. You're right that these locos are a bit of a minefield for the modeller, there being several variations over time as I found out when building one a while ago. As far as I can see from photos, those that survived into BR days ended up with Adams boilers and Drummond chimneys. Hope this helps, Dave.

I keep the pipework and handrails separate until both painting and initial weathering are done. This way every surface is fully accessible for brushing/wiping smearing etc. Once the bits are fitted I add any further weathering needed, such as streaks from leaky pipework etc, and dry-brushing of raised details. Hope this explains, Dave

Thanks Peter, Yes, its all blackened prior to final assembly. After a good clean up its dunked in/brushed with Carrs Metalblack for Brass. Rinsed, dried, and very lightly scrubbed to remove any film on the surface. The result is a very pleasing dark oily sheen. All the best, Dave.

Latest instalment on the Z is that its painted and lettered, but still awaits weathering and final assembly. Halfords matt-black spraycan overall, with Railmatch Bufferbeam Red on the err, bufferbeams. Colour photos clearly show the cab interior as black, so the cream has stayed in the tin. Hoping to have it finished to bring to Taunton on Sunday. All the best, Dave.

Or a Victorian Bathing Hut? The sort that Ladies or Gentlemen would change in while being wheeled into the sea.

This van seems to be taking forever, obviously another one of my "quickies"... Anyway, its got some paint on it now, the Humbrol Red Leather giving a scale red-oxide effect. Followed this up with some lettering, waterslide transfers from the Mabex range, but fixed in place with matt varnish (Humbrol again) hence the darker shade to the panels. I'll give it another coat all over. Finally. posed alongside a balcony coach in similar livery. This was the final coach in the batch of Branchlines kits I built, but put aside until now. Together they represent the surviving Tramway coaching stock as taken over by the Marshwood Vale Railway. Still a lot of finishing to do: glazing, lettering, handrails, weathering etc, etc. Cheers, Dave.

Still some rail visible where it curved accross at the end of Elm Grove Road: http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?q=elm+grove+road+farnborough&hl=en&ll=51.29523,-0.758201&spn=0.000725,0.002064&hnear=Elm+Grove+Rd,+Farnborough+GU14+7,+United+Kingdom&gl=uk&t=h&layer=c&cbll=51.295302,-0.758213&panoid=1zNO_N6pzN30mnkT0MmqWQ&cbp=12,292.89,,0,24.27&z=20 Dave

Barnstaple in July maybe?

Balcony railings have been fabricated using the remaining etched grills from the Branchlines kit, with framework built up around them. Once this was installed, and a retaining pocket for it created on the underside of the roof, the oversized roof could be trimmed to size. So it now looks more like a roof and less like a Bushman's hat..... Dave.

Hi Ozzy, Yes I see what you mean, but I dont think it was fixed when I took the photos. The problem was that with the return crank in its centre position, the expansion link should be vertical. It wasnt, it was sloping to the rear. All the rods appeared to be the correct length, so I moved the main motion bracket back about 1mm, and that improved matters considerably. The radius rod is fixed in mid-gear, and firmly soldered to the main motion bracket. The front end this rod supports the combining lever. The front bracket, that on the real thing supports the combining lever, is purely cosmetic on the model. This bracket now needs repositioning to match the new position of the combining lever. If you get my drift...... Many thanks, Dave.

Hi Mudders, That's the plan, but I'm not committing myself! There has been further progress, but no photos yet. Hi Peter, The matchboarding is Slaters Microstrip, 20thou x 79thou (.5mm x 2mm) applied directly to the 40thou walls. The barn doors are scribed as they are a slightly irregular width planking, and I wanted to make sure they looked like separate parts. Roofs can be a pain, particularly if they are unsuported or need to be removable. My opinion on plasticard roofs is that you must have as much bracing as humanly possible. Especially of you intend to cover them with tissue paper to give them a canvas texture. And always make sure you apply tissue to the underside as well, to even-up any stresses. Cheers, Dave. PS Slaters normally quote their Microstrip in round figures; 20 x 20, 20 x 40 etc, so why is this one 20 x 79thou? Why not 80?

Time for another of my sporadic updates, the van is now three-dimensional (shock, horror) and braced with two solid internal partitions. The three sections are held together by two 8ba screws, into captive nuts soldered to slabs of PCB. These spread the load of the screws, effectively "clamping" the floor of the van down. A false-roof fits inside the body sections, resting on the internal bracing. Several roof-profiles are secured to the false-roof, and the pre-curved plasticard roof attached to it. The actual roof is deliberately left overlarge and will be cut to size afterwards. Looks seriously odd like this....

Once I had finally concluded that there was no more soldering to do, it was a time for a clean with solvent and stiff brush to get the flux etc out of the crevices, then a really good scrub with scouring powder and an old toothbrush. After cleaning off (gave it an ultrasonic bath as well) it was blackened, followed by another rinse and dry and then a waft of grey primer. The boiler and cab roof are still not fixed in position. Time to check if I've got enough matt black in stock, or need another trip to Halfords. Dave.

Some interesting points there John, My main thought on this loco stems from the "you can stick anything under there" statement earlier. The Branchlines chasssis is correctly an 0-4-2, but that seems a needless complication to me. Putting trailing wheels/pony truck or whatever under those skirts is asking for trouble, there's no advantage to it, quite the opposite. I would put an 0-6-0 chassis under it everytime. Easier to build, easier to rail-up, easier to balance, better traction, better pickup, less to derail. Whatever chassis you use, I would suggest Romford wheels, driven by a Mashima can motor via a Highlevel Kits gearbox, or a Branchlines Multibox I did much the same thing with my own tram loco, it was assumed to be a 2-4-2, but I went with an invisible 0-6-0. Its all illustrated on my Narrow Gauge workbench (link below). I also have some thoughts on the Branchlines 0-4-0 chassis kit for the Peco Hunslet, if you are interested? All the best, Dave.