PGC

I've just read the whole blog, and what you have ended up with is a very creditable model of a B12. Brilliant. The one thing that let's it down, which you can do nothing about, is the 8mm that Triang cut out from the front end - it really does make such a massive difference to the looks of the loco. The proper length loco looks lean and svelte, the Triang/Hornby shortened version looks squat and dumpy.

I want to get a B12 for myself, but as an EM modeller who enjoys building locos, I will be buying the PDK kit, however, I've got a few more kits to build before I buy that one!

Phil

Thanks both for the comments about the smooth running - the quality of loco performance is highly important to me.

I'm afraid you do see the Youtube stabilisation feature in action - Youtube suggested the videos needed it and not knowing what effect it would have I accepted the suggestion. I'm not sure if that's a good idea or not? I will upload the same video and leave it unstabilised so you can pass comment.

Phil

Stunning. Simply stunning.

Phil

It looks Amazing could you do one for me LOL anyway will you do one in GER prussian Blue???

You find me the kit and I'll build it for you! :-)

Phil

This is a very nice build indeed, David.

I'm almost finished my build, but it's an old Nu Cast white metal kit that I've "modified" ! It will look all right, but an etched one like yours would be nicer. I look forward to seeing picture once it's painted etc.

Phil

Sorry,David, I misunderstood. I thought you were modelling Takely station, you're obviously not!

I agree about the colour choice, although I do like the Takely colours, especially when surrounded by the greenery it's currently surrounded by, but the red brick does give the buildings a lovely feel to them.

I like what you've done so far - the building does look good, partially, I suspect, because of the way you've used laser cut materials - it adds a crispness to the finish. As I have access to a laser cutter at work, I'd be most interested to hear how you converted the GERS drawings to something the cutter can work with. An idea for a thread elsewhere in the forums, possibly, if not already there!

Phil

Hi David

You may not thank me for this, but if you're basing the building on Takely, you need to re-consider your colours. 

I was driving throughTakely today (it's only 5 minutes from where I live) so I dropped by and took some photos of the station building, which still exists in it's entirety. The bricks are a cream colour, not red, and of very similar shade to the quoins. I understand that with the passing of time, the colours of items can change, but I find it very difficult to believe that the bricks would have started red and faded to cream!

I would attach some photo's, but it seems I can't add them to your blog post - I'd be more than happy to PM them to you.

Phil

Phil

Well I've just watched your Youtube clip and I think I might have a roundabout compliment for you here - I've trawled back through your other blog entries to work out if your Y7 was built in S7 or not!!

Now that I know, from one EM gauger to another, well done!

I'll take that as a roundabout compliment! Much appreciated.

Phil

David

The trackwork looks very nice - smooth curves are lovely, both on railway layouts and women!!!!!

One question - is there a chance you could sometime write an article on the tiebars you've used and how you made the TOU's? I'm just getting round to building a layout and the problem of how to make points look and work realistically is a difficult one. I'm contemplating Ambis tiebars and have Tortoise motors - it's the connection of the two that I haven't got my head round yet.

Thanks

Phil

On 6 wheeled stock with a moving underframe I fit the springs to the underside of the solebar and allow enough gap between the spring and the axlebox.

Yes, this is the route I'll be going as well - the Comet white metal castings I've got, though, are very fragile. If only I could find some lost wax brass ones - they'd be so much stronger. However, I'll have to make do with what I've got / can find!

That's very nice.

 

Thanks - praise is appreciated! :-)

 

I've been/still am waiting on a Chivers plastic one, but that's a good alternative route. Hmm. Can I ask about the black arc between roofline and what looks like it could be a top edge of the brass end - is that the gap between body and roof mentioned in the first post? Looks quite substantial, and a bit surprising that Comet's ends don't meet their standard roof extrusion.

Yes, the gap's the one mentioned in the first post. I've got the gap filled properly at one end, but the other still needs a little filling - I'll use Milliput. I must admit that I was surprised at the Comet end not matching their roof extrusion - I seem to recall someone saying the end profile of the etching was correct - well, not according to the Isinglass drawing!.

Obviously the more complicated the the contraptions people try to sell you the better the instructions need to be. Always beware of buying things whose instructions are bigger than themselves.

Or, "always beware the kit that has no instructions - you never know what you'll end up with!" Or have you started producing instructions yet, Bill?

Easy? You have to take the wheel off the axle your way, Bill, and then put it back on the axle with correct back to back, and true.

The Brassmaster Cleminson chassis means you can use the wheels as bought, and if they're good ones (I don't know which wheels you use) the back to back will be set right. In addition, no specialist tools or equipment (hacksaw etc.) are needed.

I sniff a whiff of jealousy that Brassmasters can produce kits with decent instructions!!!!!!!!!!!!!