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clarkeeboy56

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Posts posted by clarkeeboy56

  1. Interesting reading about others experiences here, particularly regarding the pick ups. I found them to be incredible flimsy. Initially mine were soon bent out of shape. My  attempt to straighten them met with disaster as one by one they snapped off! I managed to get a replacement set of pick ups plus chassis base, and have already "lost" one of the six! The other five are already bent out of shape and only occasionally touch the wheels as they should! Anyone have any thoughts on adaptions to improve this?

  2. I have three green Bachmann Mk1's (2 x BSK and one CK) to form a set. I have looked on the SEMGOnline site so have picked my set - probably in the 520-528 range. Now I know that the set numbers were fitted on the top l/h corner of the brake ends...but the Bachmann coaches have four foot steps on the end - any photo I've seen of the prototypes look as if the top three  have been removed - or just simply aren't there! HELP! Should I remove them, and were they on the right hand side of the coach end? Many thanks

  3. On 14 March 2019 at 21:19, 34theletterbetweenB&D said:

    Sounds like the metal the wipers are made from is too soft to maintain springiness. If it is a copper alloy - it usually is - then the answer is work hardening, if you can get good access by taking whatever they are mounted on off the model in order to work it. Sometimes just a few rubs applying pressure with a steel rod is all that is required.

    Hi, I was pointed in your direction by Truffy.  I've just bought the Hornby Terrier, and the pick up wipers are too soft to maintain the springiness- just as you say., I'm not sure what you mean by 'work  hardening'  though, I'd be grateful if you could explain please- sorry for being a 'numpty!'

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  4. 2 hours ago, truffy said:

    That was correct. And just above that post was also a suggestion by 34theletterbetweenBa&D to work harden them if they're soft. Can't say I've ever needed to try that though.

     

    Given that a contact is broken though, I don't know what the warranty situation would be should you decide to return it.

    That's what I was thinking! I'll have another read through, I think I read on another thread recently similar issues with another Hornby loco - can't remember which one though!  Thanks again.

     

  5. 2 hours ago, truffy said:

     

    There was a similar problem posted on the Hattons SE&CR P Class (part deux) thread, with a couple of work-arounds. perhaps worth looking at that?

     

    start here: https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/126142-secr-p-class-0-6-0t-in-oo-gauge-2nd-batch-now-in-stock/&do=findComment&comment=3496788

    Thanks Truffy,  If I'm looking at the posts you suggest, these point to tweaking  the pick-ups. Was that right, or did I miss the post you were referring to. I tried tweaking them, buy , they just bent back out of shape, and One has snapped off.  

     

  6. My Terrier arrived yesterday. I'm happy enough with the detail and finish, however............a trial run up and down the line at Swanhurst seemed okay at first, but problems occurred on points, where she stalled. Now, all my points are Electrofrog, so this really shouldn't happen. So I had a look at the pick ups. They are incredibly thin copper and the centre pair were out of shape, no where near the wheels. I just about managed to bend them into shape and ran it again. It was ok for a while and then the same thing happened. The friction/movement of the wheels seemed to have bent the pick ups back to where they were. I tried to amend one of the centre wheel pick ups  but it snapped off!  I'm not a happy bunny! Has anyone else had this problem? Apart from sending it back, any thoughts? Any solutions? 

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  7. Does anyone have a photo of one before it catches fire?

     

    Sounds like the failure mode of a Tantalum capacitor, but these should not be used as motor suppressors.

    Thanks Suzie. Is it worth my while removing the capacitor, and either leaving it off, or replacing it with something else?
  8. My "H", hardwired with Lenz Silver Mini decoder (minus capacitor) runs beautifully.

    I did however have an initial problem with it stalling for no apparent reason. Pointed in the right direction by RMWeb members, it transpired that the motor housing was a smidge too tight a fit. To eradicate this, a small paper shim was inserted "head gasket fashion" between the motor and bottom of the housing.

    I'm wondering if the heat build up in your model is being caused by a similar issue but in your case the motor actual turns but with a lot of resistance.

    The loco ran beautifully initially. My original thought was that the capacitor was faulty and as a result over heated, but thinking about what's been said here, I guess the motor may have stopped turning causing the heat to build up in the capacitor?
  9. Thank you all for your replies......I have sent the set back to Hattons and have asked for a direct replacement set. As stated earlier the loco is not DCC fitted...not yet anyway, so is running on my analogue layout. I didn't take any photo's, but the capacitor was blackened by it burning out. I dread to think what might have happened! Of course I am just a little bit concerned that the replacement loco will have a similar issue. My original H class was only out of the box three or four times and ran fine - until last Saturday. I just wonder what I should do when I get the new loco? Is it worth getting the capacitor checked out? Could it be removed? For it to burn out after such a short time is shoddy, and potentially dangerous.

  10. My Hornby "H" class loco stopped running, so I took the body off and ran it as such. I saw smoke coming from the small brown capacitor/supressor(?). AND...a small hole developed in the body where the plastic had melted slightly!  So, I'll be sending the thing back, but question is....bearing in mind I am an electrical numpty/novice.......what does the capacitor actually do? Why did it go so hot? Anyone else having these problems?

    Thanks in advance

  11. Looks like a batch or two or three...of capacitors either faulty or of the wrong spec. Obvious solution for dcc users is to cut the thing off.

    Thanks for that. I'm currently running it DC, I'd happily chop the thing off, Unfortunately though the heat from the thing has melted the plastic under and adjacent to the dome......

  12. Over the years I've had three Hornby M7's with the same problem as your H.

    The first one was exchanged by the shop, as was the second one. The third

    loco was repaired by Hornby.

    On each occasion the loco slowed to a stop, and began to get very hot ( this 

    was because I could not reach the controller quickly ).

     

    Never had this problem with any other Hornby loco.

    Thanks Trevor, it's a real shame......the loco itself is gorgeous, apart from the melted bit by the dome! The Brown Suppresor thing is now black where it overheated. I bought it from Hattons so have contacted them. Problem is I doubt they have any replacements in stock. I don't blame them, as its clearly a fault with manufacture. Not too impressed with Hornby.....the mazak(?) motor mount on my T9 shattered recently ....so that needed replacing with a brass unit from Peters Spares..
  13. My "H" class loco, which was included in the Push-pull set has developed a bit of an issue! It's only been out of the box three or four times, but while running today it just slowed down and stopped. I removed the body and discovered that the brown "Suppressor" on top of the motor was red-hot. So much so that a small burn mark and hole had developed near the dome! Now, before I have a word with the folks down the road at Hornby, has anyone else had this or a similar problem? Not a happy bunny!

  14. Progress has been slow on the buildings, bearing in mind they're aren't that many! Station building, goods shed and signal box are all scratch built from plastic card and corrugated plastic sheet or slaters bricks. Roof tiles are Metcalfe N gauge adhesive paving slabs -which don't stick that well! The engine shed is an extended Dapil kit. The 'concrete' hut is a ratio kit.

     

    And....a massive thanks to Mr Downes for the inspiration and support. He will be greatly missed

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  15. Trees......the layout will need dozens. Station board almist planted...justxa few to go and then onto board two. I've used various methods. Twine twisted and superglued for rigidity (which i appear to be allergic to!) Wire twisted and milliputed, and twigs with tree tops made from a ball of rubberised horsehair and/or hanging basket liner, sprayed brownish grey and then "flocked". Added a few sea moss trees as well for a bit of variety.Have aimed at an Autumnal/ late summer scheme, so i can maybe run a few hop picker specials...post-6028-0-58614700-1540413693_thumb.jpgpost-6028-0-83518400-1540413757_thumb.jpgpost-6028-0-57468300-1540413814_thumb.jpg

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