Parthia27

If you thoroughly read the thread you would know that the US modular layout had a DCC fault which impeded running trains though I detect a dislike on your part for US layouts. That is fine, your views are your views but I say well done Essex Belt lines for making what must be a significant effort to get the layout to Ally Pally and set it up. Hopefully day 2 will give less problems than day one.

I follow some of the PNW BNSF railfanning sites and there always seems to be s trickle of NS and CSX units heading to from Seattle so it is not too far a stretch for a unit to go north via Everett to New Westminster. Good catch whatever and I love the fact that you have former ATSF EMD power in the snow! Chris

Used to have a pair of big M6xxs )can't remember the actual designation in CP livery which I modelled pulling some tofc cars for a 1980s D&H layout that was never build. Chris

Ok then, SW1500 BN, MP15AC UP, GP15-1 BN, GP15AC UP, GP38-2 BN, GP38-2 EMDX (ex CR), GP38-2 BNSF H1, GP39-2 BN, GP50 BNSF H1, GP60 BNSF Patch (ex ATSF), GP60 UP Patch (ex Cotton Belt), GP60M BNSF H1, GP60M BNSF (fakebonnet) SD40-2 Santa Fe, SD40-2 BNSF H1, SD70MAC BN Executive, SD70ACE BNSF H3. In all 17 that I can remember and I'm sure I'm missing a couple of SD60s and a SD70ACe. Chris

Nice photo in September MRH

As stated above, it is difficult to get Jason, his main business is in running a Haulage business in the Midland and is normally only around at weekends which is when I expect he sees his family. I am not trying to support or decry him but when u can catch him his service is par excellence. I have no relation to his company except as a happy customer. Chris

The dirty UP locomotives are probably fresh from Donner Pass or Moffat Tunnel a few days or so earlier. If UP operate similarily to BNSF they will keep locomotives on point for the whole run from the west then turn them around in Chicago to go back whence they came from or to some other far flung location, unless they are due for an extended exam or repair / overhaul. The locomotives with burnt paint will be GE (Dash 9s or AC4400s) which on the BNSF and elsewhere are affectionally called toasters due to their tendency to have engine fires that mark the mid body doors and roof. Cheers Chris

When in C&NW ownership the line to Rapid City was also known as the Cowboy Line and just prior to takeover by the UP was a C&NW hotspot for EMD power in particular SD40-2s and GP40s. If you want to learn more C - Vision does several DVDs featuring the Cowboy Lines in and out of Rapid City just prior and post the UP Takeover. There is also some material from the DME era. Cheers Chris

Phil, I try to set the volumes of the locos I have such that they are matched to the size of the operating area and the characteristics of the layout operation. Rather than starting from higher volumes and lowering the sound of a loco I tend to go the other way, I start with a very low master volume. The sounds that really grate for me is the bell followed by the horn. Both these sounds get lowered even further until they are acceptable to my ear. Next I'll try two locos together to determine if they are each of similar volume. I adjust each loco to equalise the sound. If I have two or three locos or consists operating I only want to be aware of the sound of those locos operating near to me. Others should just be in the background and barely audible. Remember that European trains in general are quieter wrt horn usage and most do not use bells so we are not accustomed to a 'loud railway'. HTH Chris

We all go through periods where our modelling becomes sour or unsatisfying. I'm moving in the opposite way sort of. I have a small HO switching layout which is the last of a series of similar endevours for which I can no longer drum up any enthusiasm. I'm too much into big BNSF power to be too interested going back either. U.K. Outline fails dramatically to float my boat and moving to n scale would be easy but unsatisfying. My priority is to have somewhere permanent to have my BNSF ES44s, SD70ACEs, Dash 9s on display, similar to a servicing point or holding yard whilst having the option for having an other way of getting my fix of continuous running. I have been trying to come up with some way of incorporating the servicing point / holding yard scheme with some shunting of gas cars and sand cRs using smaller power. That will cover all the bases for me. Think of what you want to do with your operating time, if you enjoy switching then go for it, if you incorporate a continuous run that may tick another box etc. Think carefully before destroying what you have and starting again, I'm not saying procreastinate, just make sure you are moving in a direction that gives you what you want. Cheers Chris

It is either posed, involves some sort of decomissioned ordinance, or is photoshopped. I've seen enough footage of how ordinance is moved on airfields and aircraft carriers to know that at no stage would a valuable piece of military hardware like that by trundled around on a forklift, I don't think even the Russians who are much more relaxed than NATO would allow that!!! TTFN Chris

That excellent mountain scenery should be enough to inspire anyone, 100% excellent views guaranteed.

Hi Brian, check your PMs Chris

Hi John, Used to love using the Railmatch enamels, wonderful stuff. Their Acrylics were not too bad either, I think I've still got some somewhere along with their thinner. My personal favourite enamel for airbrushing used to be Phoenix, used to be able to get a fantastic egg-shell finish which was superb for decaling :-). I used to know a chap who painted all his locos by hand using Phoenix enamels using multiple light coats. His results were outstanding and I swore he was winding me up and used an airbrush until I saw him painting a loco at the Nottingham show one year. Amazing stuff. Badly built planes hanging from the ceiling was a feature of my bedroom too, however it was what I used to learn modelling and though I am by no means what I would call a good modeller, I would not be able to do what I do now without building and painting those kits :-0. Don't tell anyone, but I still build the odd plastic kit, I've got a bit of an armour fetish that needs to be scratched from time to time, so I go and raid my growing stash of plastic kits in the loft. I've got a Tamiya 1/35 M51 Super Sherman on my workbench atm (that is being garnished with all sorts of aftermarket goodies), alongside a BN Athearn Genesis GP38-2 and a load of Cannon, Details West and Detail Associates parts, that is slowly morphing into a BNSF patched engine. Unfortunately the Sherman is getting all my attention atm, and I have just acquired the Meng Models 1/35 Bradley with a full interior which if I am not careful will take up even more of my time!!! Anyway I digress, I hope the Humbrol works for you, I just thought you and others ought to be warned based on my experience with said brand. Cheers Chris

Hi John, I hope Humbrol have sorted out their quality problems as especially in the UK their range of Acrylics is heavily promoted and as in Canada I hate the thought that Humbrol supply an inferior product. I think that if caution is used, the paint is well mixed and tested on a piece of primed plasticard first to establish the best airbrush setup, it should work whatever the quality. However with the paint manufacturing technologies that are now available we shouldn't have to do this, they should work consistently out of the bottle after a good mixing. I was introduced to airbrushing using Humbrol enamels and never had any problems with these except when I was impatient and didn't mix or thin them properly, that was using a Badger 200 Single Action Airbrush that has long since gone. Happy days, every Saturday morning I would go to Beatties off Market St in Manchester armed with my paper round pay, buy an Airfix, Monogram or Tamiya Kit, Humbrol Enamels, and take them home for a building and painting session! When I was lucky I would have money from my relatives or parents and saved enough to buy a Hornby or Lima locomotive or wagon. These would not be painted but would still provide hours of fun :-) Cheers Chris

It is good to hear that British Rail colors are available in Canada, Humbrol do a wide range suitable for a number of eras. Please do not take the following as a negative comment but my advice would be to use them with care. I have used about 10 types of Acrylic during the 20+ years I have been airbrushing both Military and Rail models. I have also used many types of enamels and lacquer based paints and the one brand I am nervous about using is Humbrol. In my experience their quality control is quite shocking in terms of their suitability for spraying and consistency of colour. Even my favourite paints such as a Tamiya and Model Air can be a pain to spray, but when something goes wrong (no paint flow, spitting airbrush, blocked nozzle etc I can always guess what is causing the problem and get it sorted). Even Lifecolor and Mr Hobby that I personally find are a challenge to spray are usually consistent in the way you have to treat them, Humbrol Acrylic is absolutely horrible because it behaves differently every time you use it with an identical setup. My advice is to test it on something that is not your intended subject and make sure you have laid down a good primer (or another acrylic such as Tamiya) first. Also make sure you mix it very very well and if you are using any of their varnishes in a can make sure the can temperature is warm and that has been shaken for 5 minutes. They separate very easily. I am not the only modeller that has been bitten by Humbrol and I have had to do resprays on two models where I have used them. Despite my comments I hope you are successful if they are all you can find. Cheers Chris

If you are operating intensively and have to maintain a large fleet I agree entirely with what Joe is saying. I do however think that on smaller layouts freight cars and locos are less likely to be 'lost' within a fleet of stock, they are more visible, and therefore require more detail. I'm not sure any cars used regularly on a layout must be detailed to RPM standards, but the existence of scale draft gear, wheels, ladders and such does make a visual difference where cars stand out as is the case for locomotives used on such layouts. My personal preference is to set a standard of detail which is consistent across all the elements of a layout which may evolve as the modeller has time to develop their theme. Cheers Chris

... because he is very focussed on operations and as such does the minimum amount of scenery he feels is necessary to facilitate such. Dr GF, I love what you are doing and get even more of kick hearing that you are having a hoot whilst doing it. I'm trying to negotiate with Mrs Clover atm on investing in a shed, our garden isn't the biggest, is an odd shape, and we have 'very' different opinions on how big a shed might be. She is thinking 6' x 4' whilst I am currently arguing for 16' x 8'. I'd settle for 12' x 6'. The next problem is how I would put in the base and insulate / line the shed feeling as I do atm. Think it will be a project for next spring / summer when I have finished negotiations and saved up the funds necessary. TTFN Chris

Jason who owns The Sidings Tamworth runs a haulage company in the West Midlands and since moving from Tamworth to Devon he is away for most of each week. Getting hold of him is very difficult, but he can be caught if your timing is right, frustrating I know but that is due his working situation. Cheers Chris

If you are ok using Lifecolour acrylics I know from reading Finescale Modeller Magazine that they are available in the USA. They do a British Railways set of colours and a railway weathering set. They give good results when airbrushed. My other recommendation would be to look at Vallejo Aircolour and look to mix / match their colours to get the desired result. http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/download/c7d79e56e5c88e66e821d489925a0fde/Carta_ModelAir_rev02.pdf That is what I do to get US colours I can no longer get in the Polyscale range. Get a colour wheel, some basic colours and have a go. Cheers ChrisM

Hi Dan, The Atlas GP40 is a lovely engine, it looks great and runs wonderfully. Enjoy. If you want to get an ex BN shoving platform I would go for an for the Atlas Cupola Caboose with the appropriate detaining bits from Moloco.

Looks an excellent idea. You could alway wind back a few years closer to merger time and have the joy of running some of the ATSF Geeps that we're used about that time. I've just received a Genesis GP38-2 in BN Green which I have spent two days drooling over. The ATSF GP50 looks just as awesome and if they were to do a GP39-2 you would have two quality engines to stick lots bits too. Just a thought, looking forward to this whatever. ChrisM

Looking good Jack, you are onto a winner here IMHO. I'm like you, too many ideas, not enough time (5 days till my operation so starting something new is not an option atm). I am managing to get a bit of modelling done though, laid some track today, hopefully do some more tomorrow. Cheers Chris

You have hit the nail on the head, in most tragedies such as this, the causal or initiating factor(s) are usually failures in training, procedure or in organisational culture at a human level which, when combined inadequate infrastructure and poor equipment, create a disaster. My heart goes out to all affected by this terrible accident, I only hope that the response of government and all railroad businesses in North America (and the rest of the world) is a measured one, and makes it mandatory to invest in adequate training, procedures, infrastructure and equipment, wherever hazardous substances are produced, conveyed or stored. It is so easy to let vested interests, economics and politics get in the way of doing 'the right thing'. BTW is it fate that this incident comes so close to the 30th anniversary of the Piper Alpha Disaster in 1988 (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piper_Alpha)? Food for thought... Chris

Very impressive Ray, you've got things just right. ChrisM