Mrkirtley800

Pity you hadn't laid your track to EM gauge, Jeff.  I have over 20 Midland locos, about half scratch built, the remainder modified kits plus 3 NER goods locos and live within spitting distance of you in Whitby.  Could have had a real running session.

Here's one of them

Derek

Without going on too much about it, here are a few piccies of other tunnels on the S&C.  They all have the date over the arch and it just might be carved out of the stone.  All were taken in 1966 when I had a track pass between Settle Junction and Kirkby Stephen.  Quality is not so good mainly because I am a poor photographer, but also I had a cheapo camera.

Derek

Helm tunnel7.pdf

Nice to see a bit of international modelling.  I have a German son in law, and the first time he came to meet us, my daughter stressed that I must not mention the war.  I was very good and didn't, but he is a TV addict and so I turned the tele on for him.  When I next looked he was watching the film 'Battle of Britain' - doh!

Derek

Success thinl I've got it.  Hope it is of some use.

Derek

You are correct.  The plate above the keystone is the date of completion, 1875

Pics taken about 1966 when I can get them on.

Derek

Hi Jeff,

Here is a piccie of the souyh portal of Helm tunnel taken in 1971. Shows the side walls with a bit of batter but they are also have a slight curve.

Derek

Helm tunnel7.pdf

I used Cascamite for years, and like Coachman, layed track and ballast together. It did the job admirably. Casco glue preceeded Cascamite and I thought it was better.

It had a pleasant smell but you had to mix the glue powder with the measured amount of water, mix, and wait for 20 minutes before use. Still dried like concrete but was a very good glue especially for wood. My father, who was an expert woodworker used Casco exclusively and this was in the 1940's.

There seems to be as many ways of fixing track as there are modellers. So this is the way I do it. My track is built from basic components - wooden sleepers, brass rivets , all from the EM Society and lengths of rail. I made a track jig some years ago, so the sleepers, are fitted with the rivets and loaded into the jig, one length of rail is soldered on, making half track.

This is then laid 'dry' and it's final position determined by dressmakers pins. Track lifted and the base covered in PVA glue' Track replaced into position and ballasted. Pins removed and rail checked for kinks etc by eye. The ballast holds the half track in position and when all OK put lengths of 3*1 on it weighted down and waite until glue has set when the other rail can be fixed and everything cleaned up. Makes for a very strong track but unfortunately can't be lifted easily.although can be adjusted slightly if kinks do appear.

Sleepers are obtained ready punched with holes to take the rivets.. Making your own track means that you can use the proper length of sleepers. With mine it is for the pre group scene with 9' lengths.

It is a bit soul destroying building plain track but I have a stock of rivets and sleepers etc and do it while watching TV.

Hope you find the method that suits you Jeff

Derek.

Oh yes there are. We are biding our time for a take over, when by the law of the Meads and Persians all engines will be painted crimson lake

Hello. I built a flatiron using some of the Will's kit. I wanted one in original condition, without an extended smokebox, since my layout is set circa 1908 when the engines were pretty new. I got one of the kits in the 1970's I think, but used brass tube for the boiler, and built a new set of main frames (don't like the use of chassis with respect to steam locos) to EM gauge with beam compensation. Powered by one of the best kept secrets of the model railway world, an Ultrascale motor/gearbox unit. Consists of a large Buhler motor with a nicely produced machined all brass gearbox. A real beauty of a power unit but sadly no longer available. The loco runs and pulls very well.

Here it is running light through Canal Road Station