MrSimon

Thanks both, In hindsight I should have moved the left hand crossing back one sleeper then the centre crossing could have been on one too - trouble was I build everything except the centre crossing first and then couldn’t get it to fit and be in gauge and sit on the sleeper. It’s only the second point I’ve made, I used some tracing paper and the paper templates to plan it out, then used the plain rail points jig to keep the sleepers in place while I soldered it together; if I’d used templot (or similar) I’d have spotted it. I’ll have a look at the wing rails again, I’m not sure if the wing rail with the big gap is actually doing anything as a check rail! Thanks again Simon

Hello everybody, Over the last few days I’ve been working on this: There’s a slight kink in the straight line where I think the Blu-tak wasn’t as load bearing as I thought, but it’s a smooth kink so might be ok... I think I might have another go at the crossing on the curved blades, the gap between the stock rail looks a little big. Also, on the curved blades crossing I don’t know whether to insert an extra timber so the crossing nose is supported... what do you think? As a first tandem turnout (A6 left, B8 right) I’m happy with how it’s turned out! Cheers Simon

Thanks David! A year ago definitely - the last few builds I think I’ve got the hang of it after Justin told me his foolproof method (with a little more practice needed) - printed ones are definitely better than the white metal (I’ve exploded one on a chassis when I soldered something else too closely to it!). I think pre-formed brake levers would be my ideal, they’re always hit and miss... Two opens now on their chassis, with buffers. I’ve just primed them. I varnished and weathered this during breaks on Tuesday. Just couplings to go... Plenty to keep me busy! Simon

Hello everybody! Just a few bits done, all things that look quite small but took forever... first up two long afternoons work on the L&Y tank My first bit of scratchbuilding for it, new coal rails. Unfortunately I made them from what I had instead of what I needed so they’re a bit chunky (if I need to make some for an LNER tank I know exactly what to use! Here are the bits of rod soldered together after I’d started to clean it up Comparison between the one I made and the one that came with the kit. This is also my first ever soldered on lamp iron. After this I glued it on. Next on the back I need to do the cab handrails, the rest of the lamp irons and some rivet detail. Buffers will wait for now. The next day I started work on the tank. I shortened it slightly and opened out the hole at the front so it now sits properly, then I filled the random gap and fitted the tank filler cap and safety valves... then I replaced the rivet detail that came ready moulded on: After I saw this pic I straightened up the lines. The trouble I had was none of the pictures of the prototype matched the rivets on the kit. Finally I sprayed it black to seal the rivet transfers on (they didn’t stick too well to the totally flat matt primer I used, no surprise there!) Today I finished off a wagon underframe (one I’d messed up last time I started wagons) and built two new ones - they’ll give me plenty of small jobs to do over the next few weeks and keep my brain going... Lots to do! Simon

Hello everybody! Managed to skive off a little over lunch and finish off a pair of wagons that have been staring at me so long I dusted them twice... LNER wagon and a Southern 9’ which I stuck a highbar on, which I modelled bent (that’s my story and I’m sticking to it). Two fitted opens to go in mixed/pickup goods... I’m slightly more pleased with this one (these were taken before I added chalk markings) - not sure if it will ever make it back to the Manchester Ship Canal, but I couldn’t read the wording on the transfer sheet until it was on the wagon... In other news Loctite didn’t do anything for this, but a good blob of liquid glaze did. My other TPM 60 needs the same cure so I might try Easytrac Glue on it. I think I also need to revisit the weathering on this, it’s never really recovered from being varnish the first time (but I’m keen to avoid a third repaint) Lots to do! Simon

Thanks Nigel, I think that might be with unclean track and wheels! It went together really well (I think the only issue I face was that I put the spacer too close to the brake rod and got a short - easily sorted!) - I’ll be in touch about some more kits Hello everybody! It’s been a year since my first lockdown Saturday afternoon on the floor video, here’s an anniversary special: I’d planned on running more trains but found I’d included some too tight corners and spent ages wondering why the ore tipplers wouldn’t stay coupled. I’m trying loctite on the class 60, let’s see what happens there... Lots to do! Simon

Hi Duncan, I’ve always ignored this part of the textbooks - as long as the rails stay in alignment you’re good in my experience! Are the two dead end sidings for trains that reverse? Cheers Simon

Hello everybody! Today I did probably the scariest thing I’ve had to do so far I. 2mm... I cut the crank pins to length and soldered on a washer that stops the coupling rod falling off: I think this was scary because I’ve got the chassis running quite well and I didn’t want to ruin it. I used two layers of tin foil - one to stop the rod soldering to the bottom of the crank pin/the wheel, and the second layer between the rod and the washer. Once the washer was soldered on I filed it flat. And it still worked! Now it’s just cosmetic work on the chassis - I need to build a new brake block after losing one, but once I’ve worked out where to attach the wires everything else is painting Just the body left to finish now... lots to do! Simon

Hello everybody! I had a week off this week, instead of doing loads of stock like I’d planned I got a little distracted: My first proper 2mm point. It’s ridiculously tight so won’t be on a mainline! And it works! Back on page 17 I set myself the challenge of doing some shunting in 2mm - took 10 pages and 3 years: Here’s my first 2mm shunting. I should have picked a wagon with a better coupling...! I’ve also got the L&Y 060 running, it’s much better running with the weight of the body. Lots left to do on the body too. Also this week the driving wheels for the 4F came: The wheels are fitted and quartered, I need to solder the rods and add the weights/paint the wheels. I’ve got an issue with the running though - the motor just kinda whirls, if I press the shaft down it runs and then pops loose again... not sure what’s going on there (it does it with the N wheels on too so it’s not the conversion that’s done it) Lots to do! Simon

Hi Jim, It’s definitely a little long, I’m still unsure whether there will be another point right at the end. Today I checked all the gaps were fully cut through, then I lashed up some wires and track to give it a better test: It worked well, and I could run the tank through Now to finish the tank (and build more track) Thanks for all your help! Simon

Thanks Don and Rich, I’ve had a bit of a fettle and added the tie bar and it seems to have done the trick - I can push the 060 through without it sticking now Since taking this I adjusted the curved blade slightly and now there isn’t a gap between the blade and stock rail. Tomorrow I’m going to test it electrically and see if I can run something through. Thanks again Simon

Thanks all, Yeah there’s a slight gap right at the end of the blade - I wasn’t sure if this would right itself (or be righted) when I fit the tie bar. Looking at the blade it could be thinner, especially in comparison to the straight blade. I’m not sure what a set is? I guess the question is now: so I take the blade off, thin the taper more and re-fit it, or most the stock rail slightly to get the tank engine into that siding and make sure I do the blades better on the next point? Also, @richbrummitt is that the straight stock rail or the curved? Many thanks again Simon

Morning all, Yesterday I finished my first point, it’s better than I thought it would be but I do have questions about the blades. I used the versaline system with bullhead rail and solder blobs. The Easytrac sleepers are after the end of the Versaline/PCB sleepers. First question: The instructions said the blades should be upto the third sleeper, have I gone too far having them reach the toe end of the sleeper? Second question: do I need to thin the curved blade more? I can get rolling stock through fine (including my Southern BV) but my L&Y 060 chassis sticks at the 6th sleeper - is this because the gauge is a little tight or because it’s an A5 and the track book was right about 6-coupled engines not being able to pass through? Thanks in advance Simon

Hello everybody, Just a little done on the workbench this weekend, I’ve been out in the garden instead! I thought I’d at least get the 4F tender finished and then I snapped a wire on the drawbar so had to order a new one... but it’s ready to paint and glue together. I did some transfers (less than I thought because apparently I imagined ordering some) and have finally finished the class 108: Next time I get the unitrack out I’ll give it a test and get some pictures as a complete unit. This got some transfers, not entirely sure I put the British Railways in the right place... I thought I had the transfers for the wagon, if I do they’ve been borrowed by the little people... next up I need to paint a set of securing chains (or I saw some secured with rope which I might have a go at) Nothing else to show at the moment, but I saw in the Loco Bits and Pieces book what I need to do to progress the smokebox of the L&Y Class 23 - just gotta file a load of pin heads to shape... Lots to do! Simon

Hello everybody! First bit of 2mm scratchbuilding almost done - and finally have a 4F with a six wheeled tender... (the fact that it’s currently two different gauges is neither here nor there) My saw went blunt so I had to finish it with a file; there was a surprising amount of work to do Today I shaped two bits of PCB around the water scoop and soldered it together While I was waiting for the chassis to dry I masked the wheel treads and painted the wheels (I used Halfords satin black primer which will get a dirtier top coat) It needed a little adjustment to make sure all wheels turned on the rail. It needs the outer faces of the chassis painting, but the ‘bearing’ is behind the cosmetic axle box so won’t need fully painting, and the electrical isolation and connection needs fitting/checking Test fit. I’m going to see if I can make the PCB sit slightly lower to lower the coal space a little. I ordered some track bits yesterday... Lots to do! Simon

Hello everybody, I didn’t get the 4F chassis finished just yet, but it’s getting there... My main issue was my saw has gone blunt, so I’m waiting for a new blade. This is both sides tacked together with the axle holes part drilled through, the flat neat side is the bottom, the uneven side won’t be there once I’ve cut it off (the eagle eyed will see the scored lines showing the top and the axle centres). It took a few days of drilling out the holes incrementally larger but it’s done now. Once the blade comes I’ll cut it roughly to shape, file it the rest of the way to shape, and get the PCB! While I had the soldering iron out I solved the problem of the LMS chassis: It became a banana van! My first ever soldered body (that came out well) There are some bits not quite right with it but I’ll know for the second one... This is the good side. The other side doesn’t have strapping and I’m not sure if the door bits are in the right place... I’m calling it a win though! I’ve got one more of these to do and then I found an LNWR etched van in my tin (I’ve got no idea how that got in there). Everything else is plodding along... hope everyone’s well? Simon

Hello everybody, Here’s the second driving car finished: I even added the detailing kit to the buffer beam on this one while I was fitting the tail lamp: It looks much better than this terrible picture suggests - once the 4th car is finished I’ll take some better pics in better light... Lots to do! Simon

I went in September 2019 and had a great time - my first visit. The coach & wagon shop was great, and they were really great with dogs (Hamish wasn’t keen on the 4MT blowing off but enjoyed the rest of the day) Will have to come again when things open up Simon

Hello everybody! Something is actually within the home-straight of being finished, almost a year since it’s first un-finished show debut! Its the class 108! I’ve got the first two cars finished - the trailer second and one of the driving motor comps. I’ve just stuck on a tail lamp and painted the glazing bars on the other driving motor, and I need to fix a bit of lining I damaged on the brake and then it’s finished! The cab front getting dirty (which was mostly all wiped off) After - but I still might remove a bit more dirt from the cab dome. Once I find the bits I’ll fix pipes onto the front buffer beam. Each side of the two finished coaches. After painting they both had a coat of gloss, then the transfers were sealed with a coat of satin, the after the humbrol powders were rubbed on and wiped off it had a single coat of Klear. Next up, the next engine in the 2mm queue! I bought this from Hattons with no centre axle on the tender, so it’s jumped the queue for conversion. @justin1985 showed me how he built frames for his so I’m giving it a go... anything to avoid transfers!! Lots to do! Simon

I use 1.5-2mm if I’m using plasticard, but usually it’s scraps of Rowley mountboard and I glue the top layers of plasticard on top of that: I’ll then use a bit of bracing and internal floors to keep it square, but it depends what you’re building as to the best solution. Hope that helps? Simon

Hello everybody! It’s been a while, I’ve not been completely hibernating but my nap-to-modelling ratio has been skewed more towards shut-eye recently... There has been stuff happening though! First up, the bodywork on the L&Y tank: It took a lot of work to get the back of the bunker to sit ok, after ages trying to file the coal rails to fit I decided to make new ones. I’ve got lamp irons, buffers and handrails ready for the back of the loco too... these might not get fitted until the front has been built and that needs even more work than the back!!! Next up a bit of a repaint - this was featured in the last Gresby work session as going into the paint shop imminently and 13 months later it actually has! I didn’t realise the Welsh colour was so different to the ATN Arriva so the body side has had an entire repaint... note use of Humbrol black MATT on the cab! The repainted sides need the yellow line doing, I’m waiting for the second car to catch up so I can mask them up at the same time for the yellow line. Good news is the picture I’m working from shows the unit with only running numbers (meaning it must have been taken around the pre-Serco-Northern Franchise change) In other news this has been happening... it hasn’t got further than this yet. Lots to do! Simon

Love it, can’t wait to see more! (Also, I kept the RM with Maybury in too - definitely an inspirational layout)

So this runs... There’s a few jobs left, I have to glue the balance weights on and solder the washers on for the side rods, and tidy the wiring up, but other than that this is ready for the paint shop. Best finish the body!! Lots to do Simon

Haha yep I found that trying to solder a balance weight on... what’s the best way to solder things onto the new wheels (next time)?

Hi Nigel, Sorry for the delay getting back to you! Work went crazy after I was last on here! It’s be really interesting to see how you did the underframe - I know there are one or two options for unfitted wagons/vans using the generic underframe. (I guess the easiest thing would be for the assoc to do another run of 10’ chassis, but there’s probably not enough demand!) Today’s modelling activity is this: I chickened out of soldering the washers in until I’d been able to test it with the motor - when I test fit the motor I realised I’d glued it too far forward (so that’s been altered) and then I couldn’t find the worm... I think it’s free running, but I’ll know for definitely when it’s run under its own power. Lots to do! Simon