Isambardme

I would love to see how you tackle the JLTRT 3F , as I'm thinking of getting one myself. I've seen a mate's JLTRT 4F kit, the quality of the castings & resin boiler/ firebox are rather impressive. Thanks.

The latest developments include work in progress on an allotment between the p.w. hut & the raised terrace houses in the photos above. As the layout curves away from the camera in these photos, behind the road overbridge shown, a pedestrian overbridge, then tunnel with 2 single bores is mooted.We have a reasonable selection of L & Y lattice pedestrian overbridge photos, but finding good twin bore L & Y tunnel muoth photos has not proved so easy thus far.So , any photos etc from anyone would be most welcome.

Great lamp iron scratchbuilding. For anyone without the time or skills for this, Laurie Griffin supplies excellent cast lamp iron sets that cover both Jinty front inc smokebox top & rear lamp iron set. For the roof I've used Adrian's soldered tight initial curve piece either side with a removable central brass roof, the join is hidden by rainstrips. Dummy w/metal inside rods & valve gear has been added from £8 ebay ad , but most of it can't be seen. The inside valve gear is supported on thin cross bracing hidden deep inside the chassis as the valve gear had to stop just short of the Portescap RG7 which could only fit the centre axle. With scratch built curved brass ashpan sides the chassis has now been sprayed Halfords matt black. A little gentle filing with diamond round file to rod centre holes & chassis now runs very sweetly.

Can't believe how good my Black Five is looking now Tony. Thanks so much. There was interest in what had been done to loco before Tony's magic. Briefly; horrible gaps around firebox outer frame filled from rear with correctly rivetted firebox lower sides. Incorrect small cab reverser replaced with Laurie Griffin one. sheet lead cut & glued discretely around loco so loco still balanced around centre drivers (loco tested & definitely needed extra weight). new tender tow bar scratch built & fall plate extended to allow 4' 6 curves to be negotiated on various layouts. loco run in for total 20 mins in each direction on rolling road. Laurie Griffin chassis springs fitted for driving axles. Laurie Griffin injector assembly & pipework cut, fettled & fitted behind cab steps (check photos & G.A. drawings as very different each side). usual odd screw couplings replaced with stout Premier screw couplings that may not look pretty but stand up to heavy use well. Guilplates plates fitted. Wild Swan Black Five Loco Profiles were very useful as usual. Hope this info is useful for someone.

My Connoisseur Jinty has also been on the back burner for a while. Ive made comments on Adrian's new blog about tank top fittings following a visit to SVR Museum at Highley. As far as motors go I like Ron Chaplin & ABC helical gearboxes fitted to Canon or Maxon motors. However I tried an old original Portescap RG7 and it runs so quietly , smoothly & slowly I think I'll keep it. None of the noise of the later ones whose motor looks like a baked bean tin & which have 2 metal tags poking outside for wire soldering. The original RG7s have a black plastic inset'lid' with two black wires coming out of it.Original RG7s also have 'Escap' & motor data etched onto the side of the motor barrel. Later RG7s have this info as a cheap sticker put on the motor barrel.Anyway, hope this helps someone.

I've been to the Severn Valley Railway Museum at Highley & photographed their Jinty in some detail on a sunny day. It is unfortunately in the dark far end of the Museum shed. Anyway, there are no round 'blanking plates ' that the Triang 4mm loco apparently had. There is an upright tank water level indicator on the tank near the right hand side of the cab (facing forward), rather like a smaller version of the one fitted by the GWR on loco tenders. The tank by the left hand side of the cab does have a second fire iron upright holder near the cab that is a little smaller than the main fire iron holder near the front of this tank. Sorry, I've tried to put photos onto this web, with no success at all. Anyway hope this info is of some help.