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Dudley

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Posts posted by Dudley

    eBay.de item requires shipping to UK/ seller won't post to UK

    in German Railways

    Posted

    I had this situation ordering something from the US. I used a forwarding company and it worked very well. I just did a quick internet search and found this company: https://www.mailboxde.com I have no idea how reliable they are, or anything else, I just found them on Google, but on the face of it they would seem to offer a solution to your problem. 

     

     

    Thanks for this info Orange Cat. Will look into it...

    eBay.de item requires shipping to UK/ seller won't post to UK

    in German Railways

    Posted

    Good evening,

     

    I hope this is a good place to ask. I've seen a new Rivarossi ex-USA S100 on eBay.de that I'd like to buy but the seller specifies 'will not post to UK' (- I don't understand why this should s be so.)

     

    Can anyone suggest a way that I could obtain this item please? I don't know of anyone living in Germany or Europe mainland that I could ask. 

     

    Many thanks in anticipation,

    Dudley

    Hornby ex LSWR/SR Adams 0415 Radial

    in Hornby

    Posted

    My method of painting wheel rims was to put the loco on a rolling road, apply a tiny bit of power so the wheels rotated fairly slowly, almost imperceptibly slow, and hold a bow pen in a vice grip against the wheel. Sometimes took a few applications In between allowing each coat to dry but looked great in the end.

     

     

    Whilst I don't have any OO Radials I often use Staedtler Lumocolor permanent (black) marker pens for this sort of work with accurate results easily achieved. They do a Medium, small and fine nib and I'd estimate that the medium nib would cover this wheel work.

    Hope that helps,

    Dudley

    Weathering with ink and weathering powders - O Gauge Ruston 48DS

    in Weathering, Painting & Transfers

    Posted

    Hi Barry,

     

    Just a quick question: is it best to use the ink - any ink - neat rather than diluted? I've been trying for some time now 1 x ink to 30 x water + 1 windscreen fluid (as breaker of surface tension) as recommended by A.N.Other modeller but the fluid tends to form 'puddles' on my models almost as if there's too much surface tension. Of course I could try this myself but just wondered what your thoughts were please?

     

    I also weather with pastel and watercolour pencils on top of acrylic base paints to give very small and subtle moss/ staining like this http://dudleysphotos.zenfolio.com/p247877316/h2446051a#h3b066ede

    In this example it's on a 3D wagon which typically has a lovely texture from the manufacturing process, it all helps!

     

    Kind regards,

    Dudley

    • Like 2

    Dock Green

    in 7mm+ modelling

    Posted

    Well yes Dudley, I take your point. But for a quick snap like this it hardly matters..... does it?

     

     

    My comment wasn't intended as a criticism in any way Chaz - just offering an alternative to a polarising filter which you'd mentioned  :D

     

    Kind regards,

    D

    Dock Green

    in 7mm+ modelling

    Posted

    Yes David, should have used a polarising filter :scratchhead: . The camera is a Panasonic Lumix compact - it must be feeling rather smug at the moment as my "big" Nikon is misbehaving and has gone back to Nikon UK to have its futtocks fettled.

    Most of the snaps I have taken of Dock Green have been with the compact, it's so much easier than "faffing around" with a DSLR and the quality is certainly up to the standard required for the forum.

     

    Chaz

     

    Rather than thinking polarising filter just ensure that whenever you point any camera at a reflective surface such as glass - or in this case transparent Plastikard - that you position the camera slightly off centre. Angle of incidence = angle of reflectance.

    Dock Green

    in 7mm+ modelling

    Posted

    I did consider some sort of press or jig for the setts, Dudley but experience (I use to teach art and hence some pottery in the days when dinosaurs roamed the earth) suggested that something pressed into the surface would always look like exactly that. Also with such a large area to treat it would be difficult to avoid the repeating pattern effect.

     

    The wall in your photo is very effective - could you say how big it is? I would guess that the live steamer is bigger than 7mm.

     

    Chaz,

    My plastic stone wall mould came in A4 which I sliced up the length and taped end-to-end = 23". IIRC the kerbstones are about 5" high, the top 1' or so being tapered over. I had to do quite a bit of remedial work where the sheets ended/joined, to get any kind of continuation of the 'stonework'. The steam loco in-shot is 16mm-ft narrow gauge and running on the same gauge as 7mm. It measures 8.5" long (- and weighs 3lb 10oz).

     

    Your practice patch of stone setts with a thin grey wash look absolutely superb, but perhaps there is no easy way to such a high level of modelling. Like the fine artist/craftsman in any medium if you require that level of finish then you have to put the time in... (I'm looking for an Emoticon of a man breaking rocks...)

    Dudley

    Dock Green

    in 7mm+ modelling

    Posted

    Crikey! This is going to take a while.....

     

    Had my first go at doing stone setts using DAS today and I must say the results are most encouraging BUT it takes an awful long time to do a small area.

     

    I fixed a spare piece of Peco O gauge track to an offcut of foamboard. To economise I glued card between and over the sleepers so that the DAS would only need to be about 1.5mm thick. I coated the card with PVA and then applied the layer of DAS. I used a straight edge to make sure that the surface of the DAS was a little below the rail height - to avoid any potential problems later with the running of stock or locos.

     

    First picture shows my setup for scribing in the setts.

     

    P1010915a700x525.jpg

     

    From left to right....

    old paint brush to clear the scrapings away - otherwise you can't see what you have done

    pencil

    the track/DAS sample

    scriber

    steel rule and engineers square to aid marking out

    (under the steel rule) a scrap of embossed brick sheet to help measure out the rows

     

    And behind...

    a print of some of the snaps I took at Amberley - I don't intend to follow these too closely but a bit of reality always helps...

    a table lamp - provides oblique directional lighting, emphasising the incisions

     

    P1010916a700x570.jpg

     

    A couple of hours with the scriber got me this. No doubt I will get quicker but when I realise that this is a couple of inches of track done and the siding I want to inset is about three feet long, it's going to be a slow job. I think I may have made the flangeways too wide. I will put a wagon on the sample and see if they can be narrower.

     

    P1010917a500x567.jpg

     

    I thought it best to use water based paint on the DAS so I mixed up a light (!) grey with artists acrylics. Whilst the paint was still wet I washed some of the colour off the setts with a brush loaded with just water. The result is (I think) very encouraging.

     

    However I now realise why you don't see stone setts modelled very often!

     

    Chaz

     

    Chaz,

    You could do with a 'random patch' template of some sort - think wire mesh/ copper wire/ soldered construction (= too fiddly?) - just like your 'patch' in the photo. Or even get your patch 'negative' moulded in resin and stick this to a piece of ply with handle, and stamp your setts into the DAS modelling clay.

    The retaining walls in this shot were made by laying kerbstones on their back and level and coating with a thin layer of concrete, then carefully pressing a clingfilm-wrapped thin plastic stone wall moulding into same. This doesn't help I guess but maybe it might help with the creative ideas process...

    Dudley

    http://www.dudleysphotos.zenfolio.com

    post-6358-0-08163700-1384038396_thumb.jpg

    • Like 1

    Dapol 'Western'

    in Dapol

    Posted

    Having a standard grading system has to be one of the best ways of understanding how far along that route any particular model has travelled.

     

    A standard percentage score for each new model should act as a good incentive for any manufacturer, as well as a guide to the many modellers who said that they wanted access to excellent models.

    Might that be a bit like the NEM standards that are anything but?  :)

    Cheers,

    D.

    Dapol 'Western'

    in Dapol

    Posted

    I've read through pages 1 > 7 of this topic and have started to lose interest, however I do have one question for Dapol Dave, if I may? - and I hope it's not been raised already. Is there any chance of painted/ unpainted Western bodies being sold for those of us with Heljan 52's please? It could be a big market.

     

    Without this I wonder how low the secondhand price of a Heljan 52 will drop to?

     

    Cheers,

    D

    stove r

    in Dapol

    Posted

    No such joy here ; following the advice read about on RMWeb I also 'fixed' the outer axles by gluing up the revolving axlebox assemblies and enlarged the drop (for the axle) in the central block and it's now worse than it's ever been. It didn't always derail over points when pushed or pulled, but it does now!

    In my opinion the manufacture of this six wheeler was made down to a price; they have tried to reinvent the wheel when there are good examples of model six wheelers out there that do work. Take a look at a Roco HO six wheeled (German) DB coach (ref 4214) or here in 16mm > http://www.ipengineering.co.uk/page169.html  In both scales the central axle is fixed between axleboxes and this whole assembly has linkage to the outer axle assemblies so that when a curve in the track is encountered and the outer axle swings, the linkage also swings the central assembly.

    I just don't understand how they can get it so wrong with so much good info readily available.

     

    D.

    Building a Parkside Dundas 20/21ton hopper - mr mag article?

    in 7mm+ modelling

    Posted

    I seem to remember having picked up a model railway mag in the last two years

    detailing how to build one of these fine kits, but do you think I can find it?

    Possibly George Dent writing in Model Rail, can anyone shed any light on the

    mag/issue please? Or indeed any other article that would help in successfully

    knocking up some 7mm wagons from this manufacturer.

     

    Many thanks,

    Dudley

    New links for ex-Fotopic collections

    in Photography

    Posted

    I've given up railway photography; just can't be bothered anymore. I won't turn out for passing steam specials and I won't be visiting anymore preserved railways. Had well over 1500 pix on my Fotopic site with over 250,000 visitors/hits since 2005. My shots were painstakingly composed and executed with much research going into the captions and info supplied. The feedback I received from viewers was fabulous. Then PHUT! and the whole lot has gone.

     

    End of story.

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