Dudley

Thanks for this info Orange Cat. Will look into it...

Calden, Germany. eBay item number: 352027151673

Yes that's the blighter!

I always ask politely; no reason to do anything else. I even translated into German so that he wouldn't have to.

I've had similar thoughts but then if he won't ship to UK will my payment go through glitch free?

He's a dealer selling new stock hence I don't understand why he won't send to UK. It's 'Buy It Now', there's no bidding involved. Dudley

Good evening, I hope this is a good place to ask. I've seen a new Rivarossi ex-USA S100 on eBay.de that I'd like to buy but the seller specifies 'will not post to UK' (- I don't understand why this should s be so.) Can anyone suggest a way that I could obtain this item please? I don't know of anyone living in Germany or Europe mainland that I could ask. Many thanks in anticipation, Dudley

And you think you've got problems with mazak rot...

Whilst I don't have any OO Radials I often use Staedtler Lumocolor permanent (black) marker pens for this sort of work with accurate results easily achieved. They do a Medium, small and fine nib and I'd estimate that the medium nib would cover this wheel work. Hope that helps, Dudley

Thanks for your reply Baz. I only have experience with Indian ink and would concur that it does feel like there's more work? effort? involved in getting the ink wash to er, wash over the model. Given your thoughts at least I know I'm on the right track re mix and application. I appreciate your help, Dudley

Hi Barry, Just a quick question: is it best to use the ink - any ink - neat rather than diluted? I've been trying for some time now 1 x ink to 30 x water + 1 windscreen fluid (as breaker of surface tension) as recommended by A.N.Other modeller but the fluid tends to form 'puddles' on my models almost as if there's too much surface tension. Of course I could try this myself but just wondered what your thoughts were please? I also weather with pastel and watercolour pencils on top of acrylic base paints to give very small and subtle moss/ staining like this http://dudleysphotos.zenfolio.com/p247877316/h2446051a#h3b066ede In this example it's on a 3D wagon which typically has a lovely texture from the manufacturing process, it all helps! Kind regards, Dudley

Will the Invicta models (- made for Bachmann?) then be sold through Bachmann stockist such as Hattons? Or are the two separate concerns? I pre-ordered two from Hattons back in the summer but haven't heard anything yet. Dudley

See > http://www.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/79/Fowler_diesel_mechanical_shunter_1455_%288329998633%29.jpg (For some unknown reason I can't copy the Wiki page for > File:Fowler diesel mechanical shunter 1455D.

Are you taking it to any shows other than Warley Chaz? Us older layout groupees might like to see it away from the masses! D.

My comment wasn't intended as a criticism in any way Chaz - just offering an alternative to a polarising filter which you'd mentioned Kind regards, D

Rather than thinking polarising filter just ensure that whenever you point any camera at a reflective surface such as glass - or in this case transparent Plastikard - that you position the camera slightly off centre. Angle of incidence = angle of reflectance.

Chaz, My plastic stone wall mould came in A4 which I sliced up the length and taped end-to-end = 23". IIRC the kerbstones are about 5" high, the top 1' or so being tapered over. I had to do quite a bit of remedial work where the sheets ended/joined, to get any kind of continuation of the 'stonework'. The steam loco in-shot is 16mm-ft narrow gauge and running on the same gauge as 7mm. It measures 8.5" long (- and weighs 3lb 10oz). Your practice patch of stone setts with a thin grey wash look absolutely superb, but perhaps there is no easy way to such a high level of modelling. Like the fine artist/craftsman in any medium if you require that level of finish then you have to put the time in... (I'm looking for an Emoticon of a man breaking rocks...) Dudley

Chaz, You could do with a 'random patch' template of some sort - think wire mesh/ copper wire/ soldered construction (= too fiddly?) - just like your 'patch' in the photo. Or even get your patch 'negative' moulded in resin and stick this to a piece of ply with handle, and stamp your setts into the DAS modelling clay. The retaining walls in this shot were made by laying kerbstones on their back and level and coating with a thin layer of concrete, then carefully pressing a clingfilm-wrapped thin plastic stone wall moulding into same. This doesn't help I guess but maybe it might help with the creative ideas process... Dudley http://www.dudleysphotos.zenfolio.com

...going for a train in the landscape > http://dudleysphotos.zenfolio.com/p999189077/h5aa83da2#h5aa83da2 Cheers, D.

Have finally gotten over my Fotopic 'loss' and subsequent 'hump' (of June 2011). See > http://dudleysphotos.zenfolio.com/recent.html Cheers!

Might that be a bit like the NEM standards that are anything but? Cheers, D.

I've read through pages 1 > 7 of this topic and have started to lose interest, however I do have one question for Dapol Dave, if I may? - and I hope it's not been raised already. Is there any chance of painted/ unpainted Western bodies being sold for those of us with Heljan 52's please? It could be a big market. Without this I wonder how low the secondhand price of a Heljan 52 will drop to? Cheers, D

No such joy here ; following the advice read about on RMWeb I also 'fixed' the outer axles by gluing up the revolving axlebox assemblies and enlarged the drop (for the axle) in the central block and it's now worse than it's ever been. It didn't always derail over points when pushed or pulled, but it does now! In my opinion the manufacture of this six wheeler was made down to a price; they have tried to reinvent the wheel when there are good examples of model six wheelers out there that do work. Take a look at a Roco HO six wheeled (German) DB coach (ref 4214) or here in 16mm > http://www.ipengineering.co.uk/page169.html In both scales the central axle is fixed between axleboxes and this whole assembly has linkage to the outer axle assemblies so that when a curve in the track is encountered and the outer axle swings, the linkage also swings the central assembly. I just don't understand how they can get it so wrong with so much good info readily available. D.

I seem to remember having picked up a model railway mag in the last two years detailing how to build one of these fine kits, but do you think I can find it? Possibly George Dent writing in Model Rail, can anyone shed any light on the mag/issue please? Or indeed any other article that would help in successfully knocking up some 7mm wagons from this manufacturer. Many thanks, Dudley

I've given up railway photography; just can't be bothered anymore. I won't turn out for passing steam specials and I won't be visiting anymore preserved railways. Had well over 1500 pix on my Fotopic site with over 250,000 visitors/hits since 2005. My shots were painstakingly composed and executed with much research going into the captions and info supplied. The feedback I received from viewers was fabulous. Then PHUT! and the whole lot has gone. End of story.