Mopoke

As a few have pointed out MDF is not an ideal baseboard material but having once spent a few years operating a press that makes the stuff and lab testing it I can share a few pointers. The key flaw with MDF which can be seen in it's cross section is you have two high density surfaces laminated by a low density core, the thicker the board the more core you have so the surfaces flex further; the framework needed to adequately support your free 18mm MDF will probably cost more than starting from scratch with a conventional plywood base. Another issue is that while the surfaces are quite moisture resistant the core is very absorbent, so thicker board will be more prone to swelling along the edges; it needs to be sealed with paint or varnish. Most importantly, SAFETY FIRST, wear a dust mask when cutting MDF, the dust is very nasty - looks like broken glass under a microscope and depending where in the world and when it was made the resin used can be potentially carcinogenic. It's not all bad though, I like the crisp grainless finish of MDF, but I wouldn't bother using anything thicker than 6mm, it won't be more rigid, just heavier.... Ok, maybe 9mm if it's free. For modules or a cameo layout box 6mm is ideal - more rigid than 12mm ply, although it'll probably weigh as much; 3mm is great for back scenes and layout edges - apply a some heat if you need to bend it and it will hold it's shape when cooled. Be wary of free MDF, it'll probably be downgrade used as packing for the good stuff. Don't pass it up without checking though, it only might be downgraded for being out of spec for thickness or surface density. Leave any sheets with uneven or soft surfaces, swelling, or delamination (splits) at the edges. Cheers, Glenn.

Nicely done. Packing every spare space in the body with lead slowed mine down to a respectable shunting speed.

Hi Andy, A bit of outside the box suggestion; since you're open to hidden set track radii and split levels I feel this old plan from Model Railroader has some of the "vibe" of what it sounds like you have in mind: https://www.trains.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/Boston-Maine-Boston-Albany.pdf Sure you will need to Anglicise it and put a 90 degree bend in it - a sweeping one to make an impressive vista greeting you as you walk into the room; imagine trains running by at near eye height on the scenic upper level while you have a good overview for shunting the station on the lower. It will also leave the nook left of the door free for a small workbench, reference library or stock display. Cheers, Glenn

This one had me reaching for my well worn copy of CJF's "Track Plans" 2nd edition (1974 reprint) to find a plan that impressed teenage me with it's achievable simplicity and operational cleverness. Plan P.2 which CJF explains was inspired by "early O gauge practice" features a terminus along the outside of one long side leading to a single track circuit through a station on the opposite side with a crossing loop and a long bay platform where trains terminate. All the fun of point to point operation with intermediate train crossing or just sit back and watch them roll by... Cheers, Glenn.