maridunian

14 hours ago, Robert Shrives said:

TTAs in later years on fuel trips were a black and grot livery  as shown below will need to garnish with transfers and couplings  but a good fun few hours with a basically drop together kit, only had to slot W irons to allow 20mm axles to pass and clip into deepened holes - no bearings on these to see how it works but the POAs will get some on next batch.  The tanks will be a short rake so loco can pull easily - no real drag it has to be said. 

Play spot the own goal!

In the harsh foolights on the cat walk!  

They look the part and fill a big gap in the market for 3mm AB freights - The use of the chassis for MTA/ POA wagons also a big help for current scene , The POA can be slotted to form a Mullet spent ballast.   I guess a bogie tanker and FNA nuke flask- keeps food warm ! would  keep me very happy if not broke.     

Thanks Robert. I've made a couple of mods to the TTA chassis, adding axle-point channels at the bottom of the W-irons and cutting away some of the brake-hanger fitting:

Hopefully this won't weaken the structure too much. FIne detail plastic does bend, but not by very much!

I'll update the MTA, POA and separate chassis designs later.

Mike

That's most of the Class A livery on my own TTA.

Top platform and ladders to fix following the markings. 

Mike 

A little fettling to fit the 0-8-0 chassis, noted so the fettles can be incorporated into the design, then the Nasmyth was off to the Isopropyl alcohol bath to soak for a few hours, interspersed with some light scrubbing with an old toothbrush. A more thorough scrub after that, then into hottish (70°C) water and washing up liquid for an hour or so to finish. Shapeways' recommended cleaning process is given here. 

Buffer beams fitted and chassis shortened, the body shell is now ready for its first light coat of primer.

This will show which areas need their layering filling and smoothing. In this material I use primer as filler (brushed or sprayed depending on the area), scraping dry primer off the ridges (which are in their designed positions) using a scalpel blade as the intervening valleys are filled. 

Mike 

Thanks Ian! 

Mike 

5 hours ago, 03060 said:

Found the photo that I was thinking of, a very good full page colour photo in Industrial Steam by Ian Allen (ISBN 0-7110-2230-5) showing the loco in an unkempt condition.

Thanks - is there any clue what the underlying colour might be? 

Mike 

Just arrived back from Shapeways is a 3mm bodyshell of a Nasmyth Wilson 0-8-0 industrial shunter, designed to fit the chassis of a Berliner Bahn/Zeuke BR81/DR92. 

More information about the prototype loco can be found over here. 

Mike 

Well, here's the first print just back from Shapeways, unwashed and unfettled.

It appears to fit the chassis, (always reassuring) which is going to need surgery at both ends. The print includes new buffer beams and steps, not yet fitted. 

Lots of measuring and design tweaking to do now, whilst trying to turn this print into an acceptable model. 

Watch this space!

Mike

Apologies if this retreads a path that's been walked to exhaustion.

I've been playing with a Berliner Bahn/Zeuke V36 to see what potential its chassis might offer. 

The short answer is 'quite a bit'. The motor at the rear drives a small gearbox at the front, which in turn drives a brass screw that runs the length of the chassis. This offers the chance to move axles about - each sits in a 2mm square slot in the polystyrene chassis block. 

Here's a minimal change, swapping the jackshaft with the forward axle to produce an 0-4-0 which brought Hudswell Clarkes to mind. 

Not a scale model of course, and lots of surgery still to do, but looks to me like it could be a really useful engine!

Mike 

22 hours ago, Sandhole said:

Any chance of a 4mm version of this please?

I'll have a go at scratching the chassis. Got the wheels, Got Jamieson valve gear too.

Well, let's see how it turns out. A model scaled from a photo and adjusted to fit an an existing chassis probably won't be improved by growing it 33%... 

Mike 

That's my 3D printed 35T tanks completed but for couplings. The Class B will get some heavy weathering, typical for them in service. 

The Class B has a chassis printed in 'Versatile Plastic', but under a few coats of rubbed down primer and two of gloss black, its coarser initial surface is not apparent. The open design of this chassis will test the resilience of Fine Detail Plastic under the Class A in any collisions with heavy metal Triang stock, but obviously takes less elbow grease to make presentable.

Prints available from my 3D model shop.

Mike 

Thanks again to @Barclay for his vital statistics.

I have used these to scale the side elevation maker's photograph higher up the thread in order to draft a body-shell for 3D printing in 3mm scale. My goal is to produce a model for the Zeuke chassis mentioned above, so I've also created a 3D blank of the chassis which can be used to hollow out a suitable cavity under the body-shell, basically subtracting some of the material added in stage 1.

The Zeuke footplate punches through my footplate around the smokebox but will be flush so that's Ok. Other tight spots have been tweaked and adjusted away. 

I've uploaded a first draft body-shell to Shapeways and now await the results in a week or so. If it works, I shall probably offer this for sale. The renders can be seen online at https://www.shapeways.com/product/2LF5D9NGJ/tt-nasmyth-wilson-0-8-0

Fingers, etc all crossed!

Mike

All fair points. Having spent a lifetime's modelling filling and filing, it doesn't bother me. I actually do very little rubbing down - gentle scraping with scalpel blades held at 90' to the surface works for me. For the recesses on the Janus bonnets, a chisel-ended blade did the job of squaring up the edges. 

Mike

Thanks very much!

Mike

I don't know anything about the Mail Coach, but it might have been Versatile Plastic. As you say tough as old boots (which can be a plus) and cheap. Yes, filling the surface with coats of primer and rubbing (400 Grit Emery - dry) and scraping down (primer, not plastic) between coats will get you there eventually. 

Here's an N Gauge Janus in VP. Four coats of primer, two of gloss black. Handrails strong enough to take any layout knocks. 

Mike 

Hi Garry - it's to do with orientation on printing in this material (quite different to resin), and one surface retains traces of the support wax. (Right hand vertical faces in your photo). Cleaning in isopropyl alcohol, then hot soapy water removes most of this, but a scrape with a cocktail stick/coffee stirrer will get it off. See https://support.shapeways.com/.../360033930173-Cleaning... - it's probably best that random machine operators don't do this prodding and scraping for us.

Where layering is apparent I use (localised) primer as filler and scrape smooth between coats. Every material we use has its quirks, and needs different treatments and preparation. Shapeways Smooth Plastic products may not be paint-ready, but they do offer made-to-order items with complex shapes that modellers would otherwise have to scratch build.

Here are a couple of my finshed N Gauge Prestwins. 

Mike

Hi - I'm investigating the feasibility of producing a 3mm model of this locomotive for the Berliner Bahn/Zeuke TT 0-8-0 chassis used under their BR81 and DR92 locos. 

Recognising that drawings might not be available, could somebody please supply the most vital statistics, such as length over headstocks, height over cab/chimney and wheelbase? Wheel diameter was quoted as 3' 6" above, but I can't find the other dimensions. 

Thanks in advance! 

Mike 

Approaching the end of a project to produce 35T Vacuum-Braked tankers in 3mm scale by 3D printing. 

This wagon is widely available in every other major scale, from Kitmaster/Airfix/Dapol's OO construction kit, down to RevolutioN's N and up to Heljan's OO and O RTR models. 

Tanker models have been a thing for me for many years, initially OO then N gauge, kit built, scratch built or converted from proprietary products. A few years ago I got into 3D design, using Shapeways to produce N Gauge models I couldn't otherwise buy. 

I was recently approached by a 3mm modeller who asked me to rescale one of my N Gauge designs, which I did.

Not surprisingly, multiplying the length, width and height by almost one and a half ramped up the cost quite steeply, so I broke down the designs into their major parts, chassis, tank ends, platforms, ladders and fittings to wrap around lengths of suitable tube. 

Finding no suitable 15' wheelbase chasses in 3mm land, I had to cook one up. It was then a small step to evolve that into the longer and stronger TTA chassis.. 

Anyway, 3mm 35T VB and TTA kits now added to my 3D shop, along with various potentially useful bits and pieces. 

Mike 

Wide variety of prototypes out there (eg 

) .

If you feel the Lima's are too small, maybe fabricate larger 'torpedo's using the same bogies, etc?

Mike

Here's the coaling and watering point at Beamish Colliery :

Mike 

Hi - have a look at 

If you overlay this E drawing over Martyn Baines' W6 (I have), you'll see the only substantive differences are the smokebox front plate, wheelbase and wheel diameter.

Good luck with this ingenious project which I look forward to hearing more about! 

Mike

Personally, I'd separate the shaping/texturing stage from the colouring stage. Neither are uniform in these pictures (or anywhere really). By separating these you'll have more control over the final appearance. 

Mike

For dumb buffers, use wood. Small offcuts of timber or even laminated coffee stirrers. Some dumb buffers had steel faceplates. 10 thou Plastic card for that? 

Mike

2 hours ago, Geordie Exile said:

They would be ideal, Mike, but for the size.  They're just a few mm too large. 

He might be prepared to offer a smaller set - minimal work for him, and the chance of more sales... 

Mike

I've been thinking about these for my own freelance pit model (Mwynwr Tryciau Colliery). I initially used some "wire wheels" that decorated a child's yo-yo, but they're heavier looking than I'd like.

Mike

I very much agree with the sentiment that I'm in this hobby to make not shop. I do wonder at the pocket depths of people who snap up entire RTR trains in the latest (doubtless short-lived) Train Operating Company liveries. (I remember John Prescott's observation of rail privatisation was that only the paint companies would make money. He didn't anticipate vinyl wrapper and model railway makers doing even better.) 

People have pointed out that taking blades to an expensive, delicate, precision made model is scary (and a bit bonkers, TBH). I square this circle by never buying new RTR, and never paying more than I can afford to write-off for a kit, 3D print or second hand RTR. 

I think 3D printing is a very positive development for modelling. As Atso said, many interesting prototypes will never be taken up by the big suppliers. Making in the purest sense, starting with design, then developing and finishing a model just as we might have fabricated a model from brass or plastic. And if we want another, a single click does it!

Mike