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Pugsley

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Blog Entries posted by Pugsley

  1. Pugsley
    Sometimes I wonder why I don't seem to achieve very much, other times it becomes painfully apparent!
     
    There is the normal distraction - a quick bit of web surfing becomes a marathon research session into something or other, which transforms into You Tube surfing for class 37 thrash, which turns into, well, you get the idea. It's almost as if my subconscious doesn't really want to achieve anything relevant to what I'm supposed to be doing!
     
    Where is all this leading? Well, one of my pet distractions has been finding a suitable location and idea for my forthcoming S7 foray. In most respects this is useful, but the timing is way out as I already have another layout on the go, and insufficient space for another in the house. TFMP is pretty easy going, but I think that filling the spare room with multiple layouts would be a bridge too far!
     
    So, introducing Partington Sidings. The basic concept is that the line between Glazebrook and Timperley remained open to traffic between Liverpool and Stockport into the '90's, but singled. Off this line, the other side of the ship canal from Cadishead, is a set of exchange sidings for a chemical plant at Carrington, alongside the one that is now operated by Nova Chemicals (although I think it may have been mothballed recently)
     
    Traffic will mostly be tanks, with some vans carrying bagged product. The wagons are moved from the sidings to the plant by the Allied Chemical Sentinel, but have to be moved in the right order, as there is a lack of siding space within the plant - so plenty of shunting required! Wagons are brought to the siding as an extension of the Trafford Park Sidings Speedlink feeder - normally an RfD 37 or 47.
     
    Given that this is going to be built in S7, so I have yet to build any any of the stock, it is a very long way off. Yet, I still waste my time working all this stuff out, and last night even spent time designing logos for the company shunter(s) which have yet to be built! The worst part is I didn't just do one, I ended up doing three showing the progression of the corporate image from the 60's to today! All very silly really....

     
    I will soon be opening the large white box of joy though, despite all my protestations that I wouldn't before significant progress on Bisley had been made - the 7mm attraction is growing stronger every day
  2. Pugsley

    Unleashing the genie

    By Pugsley,

    Links for later parts of the saga:
    2 - What do you do in the bath?
    3 - Giving the Chopper a good workout
    4 - D, I, Why?
    5 - Interior design
    6 - Interior design - too
    7 - I'll be your number one
    8 - Of weeny LEDs and orange
    9 - The real slim Shady
    10 - His name? Number two...
    11 - Mikkel made me do it ;-)
    12 - Wax on. Wax off.
     
    I have probably just made a mistake, probably quite a big mistake - I've opened the big white box of joy...
     
    For those of you who are not aware of the big white box of joy, it contains a JLTRT 37 that I acquired earlier in the year and was trying to put off starting until I'd got a lot further with the various EM projects that I have on the go. This box has been calling me from the shelf for a few months now and I've managed to resist, until today!
     
    Before construction starts in earnest, I've decided to have a good look at the body parts to figure out what needs to be done to represent my chosen prototype - 37415 in the IC 'Mainline' livery.

    So far I've identified 3 panels that need to be removed, and several areas that need to be filled, as marked on the sides in the picture above. My first impressions on unwrapping the sides was of nicely defined castings with the minimum of flash. There was one bit that I wasn't too happy with though - on each side the window above the rectangular grille was connected to the grille below with a bit of resin. With a bit of care, and a fine pointed scriber, I've managed to remove this block and introduce a small gap between the window and the grille. No before pictures though, sorry.
     
    Other additions that will need to be made are bulkheads behind the drivers seat, which I think were added at refurbishment. I just need to find a decent photo that shows the detail, as there seems to be a couple of different types.
  3. Pugsley

    I don't believe it!

    By Pugsley,

    Said in best Victor Meldrew voice, as the first bogies is now 95% complete and all appears to work as intended!
     
    The sideframes aren't glued in place yet, merely held in place by the spring pressure and the location of the axleboxes/equalising beams, but it performed successfully in a few hand propelled tests last night. I can run the bogie over an obstruction of 1.5-2mm, with all other wheels remaining in contact with the ground as demonstrated in these pics:

     

     
    The bottle of flux was just rested on the pivot of the bogie to provide an approximation of the weight that the bogie will carry under the loco. I balanced it as best I could, and it shows that the bogies sits pretty level:

     
    The assembly has highlighted a few design issues that I would change if I were to do this again, principally that now the torque reaction arms are in place I can't remove the traction motors. On the plus side, however, this means that I don't have to rely on the axlebox retainers in the kit to keep the axles in place if the loco is picked up. The torque reaction arms consist of a link made from 0.7mm wire, which is soldered into a hole in the motor unit frame for rigidity. The other end runs in an elongated slot, to allow the motor to move up and down, but not rotate under power, shown below:

     
    This pic also shows ride height adjusting screws, which will bear on the plates affixed to the underside of the chassis and the modifications made to raise the pivot plate up, mostly consisting of a block of brass milled to the necessary dimensions. The projections from the cross member are the locators for the brake gear, the fitting of which will be one of the next jobs.
     
    An overview of the progress so far:

     
    It's really starting to look like a 37 bogie! There's still plenty to do, the motors need to be wired up, I need to devise and rig some pickups, the cross-members need to be glued to the cosmetic frames, which also need to be glued to the etched bogie frame. Amongst other things! I'm pleased that I'm finally going to make one of my elastic deadlines now - this bogie will be sufficiently complete to be displayed at the S7 Society meet at Mark on the 8th October (non-members are welcome, I believe).
     
    It's going to be an interesting loco to drive once complete. There's no braking effect from the drivetrain, so coupled with the weight of the loco, which will need to be reasonable to get the suspension performing well, it'll have plenty of inertia once the power is cut. Perhaps I'll only run it on layout with reinforced buffer stops to begin with!
     
    More later in the week, hopefully.
  4. Pugsley
    As is kind of hinted at by the title, I'm pretty happy that I've finished the first side of the 09. It's just been a matter of adding the the little details with gouache and powders, so again it won't look much different to last time.
     

     
    The masking tape depot plaque seems to have worked as intended, a bit more gouache washes and powders in this area have made it look as it should.
     

     
    The trickiest part of this phase was the marks on the battery box where the BR arrow had been removed. Again using goucahe helped with this, as I found it really difficult to get to look convincing. I think this is attempt number 4 - the rest were wiped off with a damp cotton bud as I wasn't happy with them.
     

     
    I've made a start on the front, but that needs a lot more work yet. The cab end and other side need to be done next. I'm really pleased with the way this one is turning out - I think it might be the best one yet!
  5. Pugsley
    Erm, rinse my kits after washing with soapy water - isn't that what everyone does?
     
    It doesn't seem right that a 7mm kit bodyshell can be built out of this few parts, but here are all of the main structural components. These are now drying off before work commences on the cab bulkheads and sanding down the filler on the bodysides.
     
    I've also discovered a few more parts I need that aren't included in the kit. The ETH gear is missing, despite stating that it was for a /4 at the time of ordering and I've also discovered that I need Western Region style lamp brackets. I did speak to a nice man at JLTRT this afternoon though, and they are sorting it all out for me - their service is very good.
     
    I find it incredible that 415 (or 277 as it was formerly known) went through refurbishment and came out still with only WR lamp brackets, although one on the no.2 end had been bent round to act like a standard bracket by 1993 - possibly the first time anyone had tried to put a tail lamp on it? Trust me to pick an oddity without realising it...
  6. Pugsley
    I bloody love these water mixable oil paints that I've been using!
     
    I thought gouache was the wonder stuff, well it still is really, but these oils are even better and much more versatile. It's taken a while to figure out how to use them effectively, it requires a slightly different technique to gouache, but I'm now glad that I've persevered with them after the initial disappointment that I had.
     
    I've used them quite successfully, I think, on a couple of the TTA wagons that have graced the bench of late.
     
    Exhibit A:
     
    The inspiration:
    http://paulbartlett....b08c1#h303b08c1
     
    The model:
    Before:

     
    After:

     
    Pretty much all of the barrel weathering, with the exception of the streaking from the filling hatch, has been done with the oils on this one. The streaking is gouache, which is still the best method of achieving this kind of effect. The underframe is a mix of the oils and powder/hairspray, with additional powder used dry on top for variation. The powder/hairspray mix was usd on all the black bits of the underframe, with highlights and other colours added as required.
     
    The oils are great for adding subtle variation of colour, as they can be added sparingly and spread around, quite a long way, using a stiff-ish flat brush. They do dry pretty permanently, unlike gouache, after a period of time but the finish is still relatively fragile. They need to be sealed with varnish if the models that they're used on are going to handled regularly.
     
    They can also be used in wash form, with either white spirit, or water with a drop of screenwash in the case of these particular paints. They can also be used in a form of dry brushing to add very subtle highlights.
     
    Exhibit B:
     
    The inspiration:
    http://paulbartlett....17179#h2d017179
     
    The model:
    Before:

     
    After:

     
    Again, the barrel weathering is exclusively oils, including the spillage stains. So far, I've not found anything quite as good for doing subtle weathering as these, especially with the ability to add extremely subtle variations in colour.
     
    The oils aren't as opaque as gouache, so they're no use for the heavier effects, for example I tried them on the truly filthy ex Esso tanker, as seen a few posts ago, and the oils wouldn't cover the original livery, even brushed on neat. I ended up using the gouache for that particular model, which reminds me that I must finish the other side of it!
     
    This is probably going to sound a bit pretentious, but I think these materials allow the boundary between modelling and art to be blurred a bit. To explain, part of producing a painting of a wagon would be adding the highlights, shadows and other subtle variations to bring the subject to life. In a way, weathering a model of wagon works the same way, except that the wagon itself is the canvas, if you see what I mean. I am definitely no artist, but am using these paints in almost the same way as one would, I guess.
     
    Still, whichever way you look at it, I'm pleased with the results so far, and look forward to seeing what else I can do with this stuff. More soon!
  7. Pugsley

    The whys and wherefores

    By Pugsley,

    This new blog format has deluded me into thinking that people may be interested in the reasons behind what I do, the inspirations and how it all started, really. They probably aren't, but I'm going to do it anyway
     
    It really started with the introduction of the Hornby Class 50, back in 2003. I'd had a model railway before, but sold up in 1993/1994 to start modelling US prototypes due to the superior models available. That too soon fell by the wayside once girls, cars and beer were discovered.
     
    The 50's were a firm favourite of mine from the days when I lived near the GWML and saw them regularly, and then from bashing the Exeter-Waterloo line in their final days. The release of the Hornby 50, to a higher standard than the US models I had, was an eye-opener, so the first releases were duly purchased. I was originally approaching from a collectors point of view, but soon realised I wanted more.
     
    During the time of my interest in US modelling, I bought Model Railroader every month, which was full of inspiring articles - it seemed light years ahead of Railway Modeller at the time, every month they'd have the 'Trackside Photos' section, where there would be some ultra realistic photos, similar to this:
    http://www.modelrailroadphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=3764
     
    There was also the annual photo contest, which took these photos to another level, with superb modelling and photography.
    http://www.trains.com/mrr/image.ashx?img=mrr-tp0108_01.jpg&w=600
     
    I wanted to achieve that kind of result, but railways soon got left behind. Once I rediscovered them, eventually I rediscovered this quest for realism as well, which happened around 2005 and is what lead me to both EM gauge, and weathering. I started searching around the Internet, and happened upon a couple of very interesting sites. The first was Mellow Mike:
    http://www.mellowmike.com/
     
    Amazing models, and very realistic. He's comes across as a bit up himself though (the old site wasn't as bad as the new one for that!) - no details about techniques, but plenty of inspiration. He is very good indeed:
    http://www.mellowmike.com/FR8_Cars/MRL50036_P1.html
    http://www.mellowmike.com/FR8_Cars/MRL54035_P2.html
    http://www.mellowmike.com/FR8_Cars/SOO_4Posed.html
     
    Inspired by what I found, I then discovered the Model Trains Weathered site, and forum. Now subscription only, I learnt a lot in terms of new materials and techniques, and the members there were very good at constructively criticising what I'd done.
    http://modeltrainsweathered.com/
     
    It was there that I learnt of the work of a guy called John Pitts. His structures were amazing, but what really captured my imagination, and inspired me to have a go, was this SD45T-2, in proper Southern Pacific condition:

    More pictures here:
    http://www.pbase.com/lumixfz30/abandonedreabuilding
     
    I then subsequently discovered some military modelling sites, and the models of Mig Jimenez, amongst others, which really leads me to where I am now. I think I'll leave it there - I should imagine anyone who started reading this has given up by now
     
    I leave you with this - my first attempt - it wasn't bad, considering, but I realise that both the techniques, and definitely the photography have improved an awful lot.
     

     
    Hopefully this has been of interest to somebody. :icon_mrgreen:
  8. Pugsley

    The finished article

    By Pugsley,

    As the title suggests, I'm at a stage now where I think that this loco is complete.

    I've not done too much since the last update - I've added a few subtle streaks here and there using gouache, and done a little more to the coupling rods - I wasn't entirely happy with the way they looked. I've also given the body a coat of matt varnish, as some of the finishes I've used are a little fragile. If this wasn't a project destined for ebay, I'd have probably left it as I could easily touch it up as it wore off.

    The rust on the cab end has been reduced slightly - it looked a bit OTT, but that's about all that I've done to that end.

    The effect on the tops of the equipment boxes is hairspray and powders, that I've attacked with a sharpened cocktail stick in an attempt to simulate boot marks from people walking over them. I'm not entirely sure it's worked - it's a technique that needs a little refinement, I think.

     
    I wanted to see how it would look in a slightly more realistic setting than the plain white backgrounds that I've been using, so had a bit of a play in Photoshop. It's a bit crude, but gives the general idea, I think. For the background I've used a photo of Wenfordbridge clay dries that I took a couple of years ago when I promised TFMP a day out in Cornwall. It didn't go quite as she was expecting, but that's a whole different story!

    Now that this one is done, I think I'd better get on with track building. The white box of joy keeps calling me, but I'd better get on with the 4mm stuff first, or it may never happen!
     
    OMS - http://www.discovertrance.com/TuneIn/DiscoverTrance-high.asx
  9. Pugsley

    Interior design

    By Pugsley,

    I've had a crack at weathering the nose bulkhead this evening, and I must admit that I'm rather pleased at the way it's turned out - used, but not too grubby (please excuse the rather cruel enlargement).

    Can you spot which bit has had the attention from the fitters boot?
     
    Most of the effects have been done using gouache, but powders have been used in a couple of places to tone down the effect.
     
    Engine room bulkheads are next.
     
    Edit - I've taken a better, not so out of focus, picture this evening, which makes things look a little better. This also shows the modified boot print, and that I've not painted the AWS reset button silver!
  10. Pugsley

    I'll be your number one

    By Pugsley,

    Number one end, that is!
     
    A couple of views of the No 1 end cab, with virtually all of the detailing parts added.
     
    Matt - as you see, I've added the wire to the phone handset - couldn't make the wire itself curly though, I couldn't find the unfeasibly small wire, so had to use some slightly thicker stuff. I've twisted as best I can so that it looks the part though
     

     
    The radio unit has turned out a tad oversize, and that coupled with the fact that the AWS indicator is also oversize makes it stick up a bit further than it should. On the plus side though, this means that you can see it's there through the windscreen
     
    These photos also show the strip that has been added to the cab doors to give some relief, and some of the other detailing parts that I've added to the cab, including the brake indicator and switches above the drivers door.
     

     
    The cab lights are yet to be added, as are the wiper motors that I haven't made yet. Due to their position, I decided it would be best to fix these in place once the nose bulkhead was secured in position. I'm currently trying to decide whether or not to make representations of the cab sun-shields and attach them - they'll be visible through the cab windows, after all.
     
    That cab floor is way too clean!
  11. Pugsley

    37/7 Progress

    By Pugsley,

    An even greater lack of imagination with the title for tonights update, on the plus side it is a little more descriptive of what's actually occuring!
     
    Since last time Hornby class 50 buffers have been substituted for the Bachmann ones, which are too spindly IMO. To do this, twist the heads slightly to the right and pull, the head should come out with the spring. Drill down the Bachmann buffer housing with a 2.3mm drill, which will loosen the bond of the adhesive holding them in place. A little tug with a pair of pliers should bring the housing away - the Hornby buffers are glued in the holes left.
     

     
    The bogies have also been narrowed and the sideframes moved up slightly. Cut both sideframes off with a razor saw, inboard of the brake shoes, then file 0.3mm off each side of the keeper plate moulding. When reassembling, glue the sidframes back on so that the bottom of the brake shoe assembly is level with where they attach to the keeper plate. This moves the sideframes up about 1mm, and narrows the bogies by 1mm, improving the appearance.
     
    Next up - the paint shop!
  12. Pugsley
    No, not finished the large 37, or the small one for that matter, but I've achieved something that I hoped was possible, but wasn't sure about.
     
    I was given a healthy dose of reassurance by Andy, here:
    http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php/topic/16226-andys-plop-shop/page__view__findpost__p__153226
     
    Which showed that what I was trying to achieve is relatively simple, and all the experimentation I had done (to little avail) with Tipp-Ex and other substances wasn't really necessary.
     
    I think that I've mentioned before that my ultimate goal is to one day take a picture of a model where absolutely nothing gives it away as being a model. A tall order indeed, but I have to have something to aim towards, else I get bored.
     
    To this end, I decided that the sides of the 37 need a bit of texture - so, this evening, I mounted a 3mm carbide burr in the flex shaft of the Dremel and attacked my 37 with it . Removing the tiniest amounts of material, almost randomly, in different directions, whilst constantly looking at photos, the effect intitially looks a bit wrong. However, smoothing with a bit of wet and dry (1200 grit, used wet) brings it all together nicely. I'm rather pleased with this:


     
    It's a very subtle effect (I think it just about shows up OK in the photos), which is exactly what I want, but it is very time consuming. 2 hours has seen me do one cabside and about a third of the main bodyside. I'm hoping that, come the end, it's going to be time well spent.
     
    More soon, hopefully.
     
    Edit - I've managed to get a better picture with the help of a little Klear, water just wasn't working properly. I've also spent another couple of hours on this effect this evening (in the same place) and it's pretty much there now.
     
  13. Pugsley

    Virtual reality

    By Pugsley,

    I've been getting into 3D design in a big way of late. I need to get some parts made for the 7mm scale tank wagon projects, which are slowly progressing beyond ideas in my head, so set to learning the drawing package (Alibre) by knocking up a buffer of the type required. It's taken some time to get to this point, but I'm now happy it's as accurate as I can make it.
    Behold the mysterious floating buffer:
     

     
    Unfortunately, as the head has been built as the same part as the shank, it appears chromed in the final render (pimp my buffer ), but that's a lesson learned for next time! The plan is to send the model to Shapeways, or similar, to make a master, which will then be used to make wax copies for lost wax casting.
     
    It's been a nice diversion from the weathering and 37 projects, although I've now discovered that I need to redesign the traction motors slightly, after running into a little problem with tolerances. Still, the new drawing package should be able to help with that as well.
  14. Pugsley

    It's Been a Long Time

    By Pugsley,

    It has indeed been a long time, not only since I actually updated this blog, but also since the 37 project started, all those years ago. It was never intended to take quite so long and I still can't believe that nearly five years have gone by! There haven't been any updates as I didn't want to put any more pictures up until I was happy it was finished.
     

     
    I'm pleased to say that the 37 is complete for now. It's taken a little while to get the lighting right, after its maiden running session a couple of weeks ago, a video of which can be found here:
     

     
    It took a while to get it running as well as I'd like, the small pick-ups that I'd designed weren't quite up to the job, so I've installed some extra ones made of brass wire, which rub on the backs of the wheels. Although the pick up is only on 8 wheels, there are no problems with stalling, which is a relief.
     

     
    The motors are a little notchy at really slow speeds, but I think they're only 3 pole - I'm hoping that a bit of CV tweaking will mitigate that, if not cure it. In terms of the individual motors, the DCC chip has no problem with controlling them, it runs as if it's got a more conventional drive inside. One thing I have learnt though is that it behaves exactly like the real thing - if one axle breaks traction, it spins at high speed and takes the current from the other motors! Working sanders might be the next project
     

     
    At some point in the future I'm going to build another set of bogies for it, taking the lessons that I've learned during this project, of which there have been many. The motor units themselves could be made more compact with different gearing, which in turn would lower the ride height, which is my only minor gripe at the moment - it rides about 1.5mm higher than it should. That's a long term plan, however, as I have several other things that I want to get on with first, the Cargowaggons being the main one at the moment.
     

     
    The only other work has been minor cosmetic works. I've designed, and 3D printed, inserts for the fire pull holes on the noses - I decided to go the solid route as they normally fill up with dirt, so you can't see through them. I also fitted the pull handles from Tom Harwin's excellent 37 detailing etch - if you've a 37 to build, get hold of one of these. I wish it was available at the time I was building the body of mine, but I'd already painted it by the time he'd finished it.
     
    The only other significant alteration I've made is on the pipes - the tops and bottoms of the JLTRT cast pipes were cut off, and filed down to fit inside some small diameter silicone tubing, to give some movement and flexibility to the pipes. The tubing is pole float rubber, which can be obtained from angling shops, or ebay.
     
    It's been an enjoyable project and definitely challenging at times, but then that's all part of the fun. On to the next challenge!
  15. Pugsley
    There are periods of doing this kind of thing where I feel like I've spent an awful lot of time doing something, but don't really have much to show for it.
     
    I've started on the roof of the 09, with the cab roof getting the most treatment. A mix of weathering powders and hairspray was used for this - mostly Mig Europe Dust, with a little Brick Dust and Gulf War Sand chucked in for good measure.
     

     
    This is mixed up and applied with a brush. If it goes on too thin, add more. If it goes on too thick paint neat hairspray on, and dab gently with a cosmetic sponge - this will spread the mixture, remove it in places and also remove brushmarks. If you end up getting it where you don't want it, a wet brush will remove it.
     
    I've also reduced the fuel spill effect in front of the cab - it was looking a little too dark to me. A soft flat brush moistened with screenwash took care of that, brushing it down vertically. I've also modified the paint on the front slightly to get it a bit closer to the photo I'm working from.
  16. Pugsley

    First test

    By Pugsley,

    Links for the final parts of the saga:
    38 - A little pick-me-up
    39 - He ain't heavy.....enough
    40 - Tarmac Yer Drive Mister?
    41 - The Current State of Play
    42 - The Spaghetti Incident
    43 - What a difference....
    44 - A Quick Update
    45 - And So It Begins
    46 - It's Been a Long Time
     

    A further, small, milestone has been reached since the last update - the first bogie has been wired up and tested with an old Hornby controller. As shown in the photo below, it all works together!

    I did have two swap two wires over, as one motor was turning the opposite way to the other two (I think I must have had the motor the wrong way round when I soldered the wires on), but that was easily corrected.
     
    I've also added the cosmetic axlebox covers, cut from the kit sideframes, so it's now really starting to look the part. I've yet to add pick-ups, which will hopefully be to all wheels, if I can fit them in, and the various kit detailing parts such as the brake gear, brake cylinders and steps. I also need to move the brake hangers, on the end of each bogie, out a touch as well, which is something I hadn't even considered until I was chatting to someone at the Mark S7 meet a couple of weeks ago. Apparently I should be able to cut these off and reattach with butanone. I was given a better method for use on the next kit that involved chopping up the end cross-members and gluing together, but it's a bit late for that with this one.
     

     
    The top view shows that there isn't going to be an awful lot of space inside the frames once all of the detailing parts are added:
     

     
    The bogies will be connected electrically to the rest of the loco using disc drive connectors, which are the ideal size and have 4 pins - 2 track feeds and 2 motor feeds from the decoder. Following the trials with the Hornby controller, where the motors were run at full power for some time without getting hot, I think I can get away with wiring each bogie in series, then connecting both bogies in parallel. I'm not entirely sure what this arrangement will do to the decoder, it has been suggested that it may get confused, but I guess that there is only one way to find out!
  17. Pugsley
    From the moment I saw this picture:
    http://gallery6801.f.../p61948874.html
     
    I knew I wanted to model it. Admittedly, I've not gone down the 100% fidelity route, so the details are still that of the Bachmann tank, representing a Met-Camm built example, but it's close enough, I feel. It certainly captures the essence of the prototype, in my opinion.
     
    The first stage was to mix up a wash of white spirit and grimy black powder, and give the barrel a good coat of that. Once dry, any excess powder was brushed off with a large flat brush.
     

     
    The whole tank was then covered with gouache, mixed up from raw umber, burnt umber and black. Liberally applied with a flat brush, it was left to dry before work with the powders started.
     
    Powders mixed from grimy black (which could be approximated with Mig Black Smoke and Europe Dust) and Mig Europe Dust were applied to give the matt, grubby look.
     
    After grubbing, the clean patches were created by removing the gouache and powders with a stiff flat brush and cotton buds, moistened with diluted screenwash. As the decals are laser printed, it didn't affect these, even without varnish sealing.
     

     
    The ends and other side now need finishing, before the whole wagon is given a coat of Vallejo matt varnish to seal everything in place.
  18. Pugsley

    Monkey in the well

    By Pugsley,

    It feels a bit like the old maths question at the minute - there are three steps forward, and two steps back again. The bogie artwork is currently undergoing another tweaking, but I'm hopeful that the mark 3 version will be the final version, as I've just about discovered everything that could be improved upon, I think..
     
    It's mostly little things, like adding a couple of extra positioning holes on the parts that are soldered on to the mounting plate, but the frames have required a complete redesign. In this version, the axlebox guides will be soldered on to the main frame, with a spacer between to pack them to the right distance inside of the frame.
     
    As a part of the final redesign, I've been assembling the various parts, to check that everything works as it should. The following photos show the secondary suspension mount, with the original trial spring in place.
     

     

     
    Since taking these pictures, I've realised that the prototype spring is too powerful - it needed a force of 500g to compress about halfway, which I think means that the 37 would need to weigh 4kg for it to work as intended! I've since cut the prototype spring down to 7 coils, which reduces the spring force greatly (I'm not sure how much by yet, I haven't measured it). I've got some thicker copper wire on order, so will see what that's like, as I think that the brass might still be a bit too springy.
     

     
    This shows the revised spring length for the secondary suspension, alongside the first prototype primary spring, made from copper wire. I'm not sure if this is final length for this one, the revised frame etches need to be constructed first, so I can work out the height of spring required.
     

     
    The remains of the moulded springs on the kit sideframe, will be turned into locating studs for the primary springs. i had originally planned to replace the equalising beam mounts with an etched part that would actually pivot, but have abandoned that plan for now. I will give it a go at a later date, but with a suitable casting, the etched parts don't look as good as what's there at the moment.
     
    This funny looking part:

    Rests on the secondary springs, whilst also locating the bogie on the pivot. There will be some form of screw adjustment incorporated either into the supports that rest on the slide plates (see next pic), or from the secondary springs to the bolster to give the ability to adjust the ride height.
     

     
    The slide plates and the bolster bearing surface can be seen in the picture above. The plan to stack etched washer-like parts isn't quite working - I need more than I've planned for in the etch, so this will be replaced by a turned brass part of the required diameter, once the next version of the main etches are back, as I don't know what length the part needs to be to maintain the correct ride height at present.
     
    The final picture shows the mounting plate in place on the bogie, but it is too close, as mentioned above.
     

     
    There's a few more parts to test this week, then hopefully everything that needs it will be amended by mid-week, so the revised file can be sent to the etchers.
     
    More soon, with any luck
  19. Pugsley

    3rd time lucky

    By Pugsley,

    This is it for a while now, I promise! The more I use these oils, the more I like them, and the more I'm getting to grips with using them. The 3rd wagon is by far my favourite of the ones I've done recently, it just looks that bit better than the others.
     
    I've used a photo of a different tank as a guide for this one, for a bit of variety:
    http://www.flickr.co...57603195747980/
     
    The model:

     
    I've used the same techniques that I've developed over the other two wagons, but have added more artificial highlights and shadows on the underframe, and on the roofwalk. Again, the underframe was exclusively oils, with talc added as required to matt the finish, the same was done to the bufferbeams.
     

     
    The base grime under the filling hatch was created by loading the tiniest amount of paint onto the brush, then rubbing it gently over the barrel. The streaks were added with a small brush, then worked into the barrel by tapping and scrubbing until the desired effect was achieved.
     

     
    I think a rake of these will look rather nice in the oil terminal on the layout, which I really should get on with building...
     
    More as and when!
  20. Pugsley
    It's been one of those days. One of those days when most things don't go the way you want them to. In fact, I've had the Sadim touch all day (the opposite of the Midas touch - everything you touch turns to sh*t) so it came as no real surprise that the start on the layout didn't quite go to plan.
     
    Once all the Templot plans had been put on the boards, I started putting stock in the relevant places just to check the visual appearance of the plan. I don't make detailed plans, as such, I have a 'vision' that I work towards, and due to my inability to draw sketches are out of the question, unless you're trying to visualise a layout through the eyes of a four year old. Is that mummy there?!? No, it's supposed to be a tree.
     

     
    So, all stock was put in various locations - tanks in the oil terminal, the 455 in the platform and two Mk1's in the bay platform, pretending to be a 2-HAP. I didn't like it, which wasn't totally unexpected with the way that the day had gone up until that point. In the pic above, the fiddle yard is off to the bottom of the picture and the viewing side is off to the left. The Bachmann wagon boxes liberally spread around are to assist with building the picture - I decided I needed some help once I decided I didn't like it the way it was.
     

    Looking from the front of the layout, over the other end of the oil terminal sidings, towards the station. The 455 is in the main platform, the '2-HAP' (if you squint, a lot, it might look like one) is in the bay.
     

    Looking across the oil terminal sidings, across the headshunt beyond towards the houses behind the railway - recently built and looking suspiciously like Bachmann TTA boxes.
     
    So, after the initial disappointment and irritation of it not working in the way I had envisaged, getting to the stage of thinking 'bu**er, I'm going to have to start again', I walked away for 10 minutes. On coming back to the layout, I hit upon the solution - just reverse the viewing side.
     

     
    I now understand why I've never seen a layout that slopes down at the back, it just doesn't work visually. Sure, in real life there are probably many stations that are flat at the front but slope away at the rear, but as a model it just doesn't work.
     

     
    The last change of plan is the large industrial building that was supposed to be to the right at the front of the layout, where the vans are sat in the pictures above. This isn't going to work, so I'm going to have to contrive another off scene industry to get the vans in and out. I think that the industry will now be a low-ish relief building coming out of the backscene enough to make the exit to the fiddle yard slightly less visible, providing just enough of a hint to justify the occasional train of vans entering and then reversing in to the off-stage siding.
     
    Jobs for the near future will involve turning the boards around and testing my theory - whatever happens next really hinges upon the results of that. Hopefully the change of viewing angle will do the trick, or it really is back to the drawing board.
  21. Pugsley

    He ain't heavy....enough

    By Pugsley,

    The second bogie has now reached a stage where I could plonk the loco down on the pair of them to see how everything looked and worked, so I couldn't resist giving it a go! It has highlighted a couple of minor, related, problems that are going to be fairly easily corrected. The bogie pivots need to be cut down a bit further as they currently hit the centre traction motor on each bogie, and the loco isn't quite heavy enough for everything to sit right. The first problem can be cured with a big file, the second with some of this:

     
    Which I think has to be the most economical way of buying lead for weighting models, admittedly it did cost £23 but I won't need to buy any more for a very, very long time!
     
    The threaded adjusters on the secondary suspension have also proved their worth - I've had to jack the side closest to the camera, in the photo below, up by about 1.5mm to get everything sitting level. It might need a bit of further adjustment when I set it up on a marble surface, instead of the cutting mat, but it's pretty much there. This pic does show it riding too high though, which is a combination of the two problems mentioned above.
     

     
    It looks quite imposing from this angle, which also slightly shows the rippled sides, which could create some interesting photo effects, once the loco is finished and I build a photo diorama for it. I also need to fettle the fit of some of the springs, a couple of them sit at funny angles, which is due to being slightly out when the pilot holes for cutting the mounting studs were drilled. If I were to do this again, I'd make a little jig for getting the drill centred in the cast springs, which were used to form the mounting studs.
     

     
    I've also made a representation of the encoder fitted to the refurbished examples, which is fitted to the centre axle, on the side opposite to the speedo, on the No. 2 end bogie. I did toy with the idea of not bothering, but decided that it would only irritate me in the future if I didn't do it. The picture above also highlights the lack of brake gear, which will be added once I've cast the necessary bits in resin.
     

     
    Once the bogie is fitted, the mechanism is pretty unobtrusive. The final drive gear on the leading axle does show up quite well at the moment, but once that's been coloured black with permanent marker, it shouldn't really show.
     
    I've also uploaded a video to Youtube, showing the suspension in action. I've probably built in a bit too much travel to the design, I don't think there's that much movement in the real thing, but it should cope with whatever rough track is thrown at it. The drivetrain might be a little noisy in operation, but I do plan on fitting a soundchip, so it shouldn't be too noticeable, with a bit of luck.
     
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gQLQNdcBNHA&feature=youtu.be
     
    It appears to work like it should - the bogie moves around with no noticeable movement of the body (until it reaches the really big drop, but that's to be expected!), so I'm happy with what I've achieved. Next steps include casting the brake shoes and fitting the rest of the detail parts onto the bogies. Once that's done, it's time to crack on with the body.
  22. Pugsley

    More bogie progress

    By Pugsley,

    With the coming of Spring, almost, I've been able to get on with the class 37 bogies, with the key being the assembly of enough traction motors to test assemble the first one. It's been too cold to do anything in the shed!
     

     
    Putting the 3 motors in place showed exactly where the cross-members needed to be trimmed, to prevent the reduction gears fouling on them. A bit of a design cock-up there! These have now had sections cut out with a piercing saw, which doesn't seem to have affected the strength of the bogies at all. It looks a bit untidy, but it isn't going to be easily visible, so I'm not too worried
     
    A view of the other side, with the cosmetic sideframe from the kit attached with Blu-Tack! It's wonderfully versatile stuff, although something a little more permanent will be used in the end
     

     
    The last recent achievement has been adding the brackets for the torque reaction arms. These are soldered to the cross-members and will both prevent the motor rotating around the axle, and it will also locate the motors laterally.
     

     
    The arms will, quite simply, be made out of wire, probably 0.7mm NS, although I haven't made my mind up yet. They'll hook into the top holes on the motor brackets and the soldered brackets. The theory is that the motor will be able to move around the axle slightly as the axle moves up and down on the springs. The original plan was to have slotted brackets, so the motor could move up and down in the same plane as the axle, but these looked a bit too tall in the end, so I substituted some other parts that were included on the frets for a different purpose.
     
    I'm still learning as I go!
  23. Pugsley

    Getting there slowly...

    By Pugsley,

    Progress is at it's usual snails pace, but it is progress none the less! I've managed to get the first of the traction motor/axle assemblies complete, and it all fits between the wheels. I knew it would...
     

     
    The R on the top of this one denotes that it is the innermost unit of the bogie, and as such has the motor mounted the other way round, so is wired to run in the opposite direction to the other two on the bogie, whilst keeping the wire colours consistent.
     
    A view of another, partially assembled, unit, waiting to have the other wheel pressed on:
     

     
    Another view of the completed unit:

     
    I need to work out a way of blackening the gears, possibly using permanent marker, but they shouldn't be too visible once the frames are all in place.
     
    Meanwhile, work continues on assembling and cleaning up the main bogie frames. More anon!
  24. Pugsley
    With the oil terminal on the forthcoming layout, I decided it would be a good idea to have a Railfreight Petroleum 37 or two on the roster for bringing the oil trains in. A search of fotopic found this photo of 37890 at Guildford in 1991:
    http://crumb.fotopic.net/p49489748.html
     
    Given that it's not a million miles from where the layout is set and the year is spot on, 37890 was decided upon. Research indicated that the Bachmann model of 37672, one of the first releases of the all-new refurb 37, was the ideal starting point as the grilles are the same (37891 was another possible candidate).
     
    The work required is minimal, two bodyside windows need their frames shaving off and the apertures filling. Other, smaller, apertures also need to be filled. I'm adding the new Shawplan/Extreme Etchings parts to mine to change the cooler group fan grille and windscreen surrounds. I'll also be swapping the buffers for Hornby parts as the Bachmann ones are too spindly and I'll also be putting a Replica high-intensity headlight on the front to replace the undernourished Bachmann one. Horns from NNK complete the body modifications.
     
    The chassis requires minimal work, the bogie sideframes need to be cut away and remounted slightly higher, the ride height seems OK. The loco will also be converted to EM with Black Beetle wheels.
     
    A repaint will follow, although it's pretty straightforward as the model was already in Transrail grey.
     
    Progress so far:

    The windsceen etch is attached by with cyano adhesive. The etch is very thin, so doesn't need to be recessed into the shell - the windcreen panel is obviously a separate panel on the real thing as well. The next job here is to file the plastic back to the same profile as the etch for the flushglazing, which will be fitted after painting.
     

    The fan grille comes in two parts, the mesh surround and the securing ring, much as the real thing. The Bachmann etched grille needs to be removed, and the moulded outer surround carefully removed. I gently shaved it off with a scalpel and finished off with a fine file.
     
    The area where the ring was will need to be painted to match the roof - Railmatch acrylic Exec Dark Grey is a good enough match for this. Carefully line the mesh up with the hole - it goes to the edge of where the moulded surround used to be, taking care to get the mesh square.
     
    Once in the correct position, put a small drop of cyano on one of the four 'corners' and wait for it to dry. Once this is secure, small drops can be placed in the three remaining 'corners' to secure the mesh fully.
     
    The securing ring is very fragile and is best pre-rolled to the roof profile before fitting. I did this with a bit of 8mm tube on a pad of folded kitchen roll. As before, I ran a thin film of cyano along the central rib of the ring and put it in position, making sure it was square. Once this has dried, a thin film of glue an be run along the outer edges of the sides, with an old scalpel blade, and the grille pressed into place.
     

    This shows the apertures that need to be filled, the window is the biggest and all of the remaining footsteps around the engine room access door. This is the same both sides.
     
    I've got a day off today, so hopefully more updates later!
  25. Pugsley

    D I Why?

    By Pugsley,

    A combination of things in the title - do it yourself transfers and why am I going this far? I could have the body assembled by now, I reckon, but it is getting to a point where the extra work seems worthwhile - I just have to keep thinking 'it'll look great once it's finished!'.
     
    The transfer making wasn't as tricky as I feared it might have been. I ordered some of the clear and some white paper from Crafty Computer Paper, which comes with fairly comprehensive instructions. The first attempt didn't go exactly to plan - after 3 light coats of Klear sprayed on the ink ran after wetting the decal. Since that first attempt, I've given everything else one thin-ish coat of Humbrol Mattcote applied with a flat brush and it appears to be working much better. The signs were made up in CorelDraw based on photos I've found on t'internet.
     
    The results so far:

    The engine room bulkheads are now substantially complete - just need a little weathering before fitting. The painted flag and detonators in box effect looks a little crude but, in the context of the assembled model, should look OK. Just don't look too closely...
     
    The nose bulkhead for the No 1 end is in a similar position, although I have started on the weathering of this, mostly worn paint/shiny metal so far, using Metalcote silver (Humbrol).

     
    Once the nose bulkhead is weathered and fitted, I can make a start on fitting the cab detailing bits, and the LED cab lights. About the only cab detailing parts left to make now are the windscreen wiper motors - these will be fitted after the bulkhead is secured in place.
    http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/uploads/1264621456/gallery_6668_11_33085.jpg
     
    Included in the above pic are brake indicator lights, isolating switches of some kind (I think - they're fitted above the cab doors on the drivers side), cab heaters, radio and unidentified tanks that go on the secondmans side.
     
    After finishing the cab assemblies, attention will turn to the body sides, although there is a little experimenting to be done before assembly - more of that in the next 'gripping' instalment...
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