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ullypug

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Blog Entries posted by ullypug

  1. ullypug
    Evening all,
     
    been a while hasn't it?
     
    Wheal Elizabeth's glacial conversion to incorporate a running line is almost complete. We now have a dividing railway fence, facing point lock with protection bar, lever frame, rodding etc and all the details I've been meaning to get round to. I'm sure someone out there can tell me what colour the levers should be for a point lock and point lever (which operates a pair of points in case you were wondering). Fencing is EZ line and the track details a variety of Dart, Ambis, MSE and Brassmasters bits and pieces.

    Also on trial is the Bachman N mogul I started converting at the Bristol show. It follows the EMGS manual sheet and Tim Shackleton's articles in MRJ. No dramas really. I changed the coupling rods to Alan Gibson's universal ones and also replaced the return crank. The tender has a new Mainly Trains chassis and very nice it is too. I had to space out some of the rods, cranks to stop them touching but I think we're getting there. This will be for one of the through freight trains for the front line.

     
    Only the the West Country and Standard 4 tank to convert, plus the Finney T9 and a couple of Van B's to build and then I can say there's nothing left to do on Wheal Elizabeth (yeah right...).
  2. ullypug
    Evening all
    With the T9 virtually complete, at least for now until I can buy some number plates, I've turned my attention to the next project. This is a Peckett 0-4-0ST E class, a couple of which were acquired by the GWR via the Swansea Harbour Trust. MIne's going to be an industrial version for use as the works shunter on Wheal Elizabeth (at least for now anyhow). Haven't decided on a name yet. Might be Munchkin, might be Minion.

    The kit itself is from CSP Marketing and is going together quite nicely. My 1368 chassis is from the same stable and they're well thought out, with clear instructions and exploded diagrams which makes things simple. Chassis will be compensated and I'm using High Level hornguides and horn blocks. A High Level gearbox and 1015 Mashy motor will complete. Gear box is built but the motor will be purchased at Expo EM in a couple of weeks' time.
     
    As you can see I'm putting the body together in sections. These have yet to be joined together but the trial fit looks ok. Some tweaks will no doubt be required later.
     
    Pics attached. Updates to follow as and when.


  3. ullypug
    Just like buses eh?
     
    The Van B Link here needs something to pull it and rather than start on the Finney T9, I've gone for the quicker option. I want to have something ready for Manchester in October.
    So this is a (hopefully) straightforward conversion of the Hornby West Country pacific, using 605 Squadron as the donor engine and following the EM Gauge Society manual sheet as the basis of conversion.
     
    First step is to take everything apart. It's quite scary when you get to this stage:

    Next bit is to convert the tender as it's easier. I've changed the body it came with for a cut down version. The keeper plate just comes off, you drop out the wheels, put in new ones and put it all together. Took about 10 minutes and didn't have to file anything down. Wheels are from Alan Gibson.

    Onto the loco and the first bit to covert is the pony truck. The keeper plate is prised off and replacement wheels inserted after a bit of filing down. I've also taken off the lower part of the ash pan as I'll be replacing this with parts from Albert Goodall (now available from RT Models). The truck has been cut back to a more prototypical shape. The keeper plate needs to be screwed back in, so a couple of holes were drilled and tapped to do the necessary.

    The front bogie's been cut in half (mazak I think and it made a mess) but I forgot to take a photo of that.
    More to follow next time.
  4. ullypug
    Glad to report progress with the prairie at long last, to the point where it's progressed to the final painting stage.
    The last bits and pieces have been added and the chassis now runs smoothly. Thank goodness!
    Cylinders have been painted and the wheels and motion blackened. Think that'll need another coat though and I'll give the chassis a light dusting of grime too. I need to get some screw link couplings at Wells in a couple of weeks, along with a loco crew.
    Both the prairie and the 57xx bodies have been given a few coats of black enamel, followed by a couple of coats of dullcote. A few layers of Klear before transfers, more Klear and then weathering. Still undecided whether to remove most of the gunk back or leave as is. Anyway, it's the final stretch now.
    Feeling happier!
    Edit. A couple more photos added with some tweaks (thanks Adam!)

  5. ullypug
    The ongoing addition of a running line continues. Here you can see the new bridge with a bubble car where the new platform will be on the viewing side.

    A shot without the bubble car and the addition of a background blocker. No photoshop here! The bridge was made from cut and shut sections of the existing retaining wall, so the colours match the original bridge exactly. I didn't fancy trying to replicate the stonework from fresh.
     
    The change in levels from the original to new bridge is unfortunate, but I didn't want to destroy the original. I'm debating what to put in the foreground between the two. One of Kernow's Type 4 stone LSWR signal boxes would fit but would be a bit over the top and would have no realistic reason to be there.

    At the other end of the layout, I'm planning to relocate the original clay slurry loading point and add a couple of tanks as scenic blockers. Both lines behind will extend onto the fiddle yard meaning we can load a rake of tanks, rather than a couple in the original location which will be used as a coal siding/loading bank and occasional stabling point for the works shunter.

    One of the bubble car just to prove it's green!
  6. ullypug
    Wheal Elizabeth is out and about this coming weekend at Cheltenham. Do come and say hello if you're going..
    The modifications to the layout are all but complete, just some point rodding, facing point lock and a lever frame to add.
    The slurry loading facility has been relocated, allowing a rake of tanks to be filled, so expect to see the bullet train this weekend.
    Also, Wheal Elizabeth has secured the lucrative contract to supply Tulis Russell, the papermakers so expect to see their own private owner PAA hoppers making an appearance too.
    Luckily, I was able to snap a few shots of the test train this morning.
     
    Jamie, the works R&H shunter bringing two tanks into the yard

    Jamie, the omnipresent small engine pushing the hoppers up towards the slurry loading point.

  7. ullypug
    In the end, we decided Minion was a better name than Munchkin and the loco has emerged from the finishing shop for running in. I daresay it will get grubbier after such exertions.
    Happy that it seemes to work ok. The pickups are going to give a bit of grief but I wanted to avoid using top bearing wipers as recommended in the kit. Time will tell if I have to revert to this system.
    Saddle tank is full of lead which helps. Nameplates are from Narrow Planet and the works plates something I've had for ages from Golden Arrow. Both fixed with Klear.
    I'll give the engine a light waft of weathering when I have time but that will have to wait for now.
     
    Am operating Cirencester at the Farnham show this weekend so may take Minion down for a bit of running in when Dave isn't looking.

  8. ullypug
    One of my long standing 'round tuit' projects has been a Triang bogie luggage van that was given to me by the late Bob Haskins. As is the way, I was looking for something else in the modelling room when I came across a box containing a number of wagons he'd given me, some years ago now.
    I knew I'd picked up a detailing conversion pack for it from Roxey Mouldings at a bring and buy so I thought why not?
    I guess Bob had this coach from the early seventies and the Roxey kit was also in a suitably decrepit box but as you know I do like these resurrection projects.
    The instructions were comprehensive and luckily I already had the Gould book from Oakwood Press to provide background information.
    First step was to remove the green paint (I guess Bob applied) using Modelstrip.
    I decided not to reuse the existing doors. New ones were made from Evergreen planking sheets and straps added from strip with rivet detail added from cubes of 5mm square section. Handrails were added from 0.35mm wire.
    The under frame was made up on a base of copper clad, allowing it to be soldered together before bolting to the underside of the body.
    The bogies are sprung, using the Bill Bedford 8ft variants and the white metal side frames glued on.
    I used MJT LSWR/SR pattern ventilators as the ones in the Roxey kit had a little too much flash for my liking.
    Once the detailing had been complete, the coach was sprayed with Halfords plastic primer, Precision carmine airbrushed on and a light weathering coat added. The roof has a coat of Lifecolour roof dirt.
    I've attached a few photos including the finished article on Cheddar. My plan is to run it as a parcels/strawberry van. I've absolutely no idea if these vans ever ran on the Cheddar Valley line, but I don't care. I think Bob would have liked the end result and that's all that matters!

  9. ullypug
    In advance of the EMGS skills day at Kidderminster next weekend (hope the snow thaws), I've been finishing off a number of projects. They're all in P4 by the way.
    I'm doing a demo about the various springing systems for wagons that I've used/or not.
     
    First up is the Craig Welsh chassis for a RCH under frame. These are sold by the Scalefour society and fold up in a single unit. I really like them. I've posted pictures before and this sits under an ECC body I originally built (badly) 35 years ago. I've since detailed the sole bars with crown plates etc. The originals didn't survive the dismantling process.

    Next is one of Justin's rather spiffing Rumney Models wagon chassis kits, in this case for the 21T hopper. I probably should have started with an easier one, but I already had the Parkside body assembled in another frenzy of poor model making, hence it needed a new chassis. These kits are really good and I've a fair few more waiting to be built. They are an exercise in origami, but well thought through and if you take it steady, don't present any problems. The instructions are fairly comprehensive! The standard BR hopper did find its way on to the Cheddar branch for loading quarried stone.

    Then there's something a bit different, namely the Prickley Pear system. This is a hybrid between sprung and compensation. Both w irons rock but are retained by a wire at the outer edge which springs off a central evergreen square plastic section. The cosmetic springs were fixed to the w iron leaving a space under the sole bar to allow movement.

    The Toad has one of the Morgan chassis kits marketed by the Scalefour society and has adjustable w irons both laterally and at one end, vertically. Personally I think it's a bit over engineered. It's a lot of effort to avoid springing out the W irons when inserting the wheels. I've never had any issues with this on any of the other systems I've used, so for me anyway it's solving a problem (which it does well) that doesn't bother me. The instructions were very comprehensive too and the range covers just about every sort of GW wagon you could wish for,

    Then there's the masokits sprung chassis kits which form into pre-determined lengths around a chassis spine. The springs are thin steel strip. I didn't actually build the chassis bit but I have put it under the coal wagon.

    Lastly there's the Bill Bedford system, marketed now by Eileens amongst others. I must confess it's the standard system I use and get on well with.

    Not shown is standard rocking W iron compensation, which I will have on the demo stand and lastly, uncompensated. For every one who tells you springing and compensation is an essential, there are plenty of others who make do without quite happily.
    At the end of the day it's a personal choice. A bit like choosing the best auto coupling system...
     
    My personal choice? Bill Bedford W irons, Rumney Models and Craig Welsh chassis kits. They work for me. The others work fine, but building them hasn't persuaded me to change.
     
    edit for typo/grammar
  10. ullypug
    Don't know if I was inspired by Dave at Scaleforum, but next on the workbench is a long planned conversion of an Airfix 14xx/48xx I've had for about 30 years.
    I'm not going to describe every last detail or provide lots of updates because there are other more worthy examples on this forum elsewhere.
    Needless to say all the usual components are there: High Level chassis kit, Mainly Trains body detailing kit and a few other bits and pieces.
    So far I've built the chassis as per the instructions for the fully compensated option. As you'd expect from Chris' kits, it all just falls together. The only think I've done differently is to make the springs detachable by tapping them 14BA and using countersunk screws to fix to the chassis sides. See photo.

    Body had been hacked, filed and sanded and bits are starting to go back on.
    I'm going to add sanding gear and one or two other parts I've acquired over the years to embellish the Mainly Trains kit.

    As for the final model? Possibly 1463 as there are plenty of examples of it at Yatton, though I'm still pondering that one. As long as it has top feed! Whichever loco it is, it'll eventually be used for the SO Yatton-Wells and return trip on Cheddar.

    Must go and check that chimney before the epoxy goes off. I think it's the camera.
  11. ullypug
    With 1454 finished (don't panic, we have 2 independent witnesses confirming it was indeed in unlined green with the early emblem), I'm now working on the Autotrailer.
    I reckon I bought this when I was about 13, which is a long, long time ago. I know there's a new RTR model in the pipeline but that's not the point. I really enjoy updating all the old models in my collection. In some cases it's quite poignant to see what I managed to achieve as a teenager (or not as was frequently the case) and it does make it a bit more personal.
    So, to the Autotrailer. As is well known, the old Airfix (now Hornby model) is a bit of a mishmash of diagrams A28 and A30. The seminal article is in MRJ No 9 (and that's going back a while too) which details the differences and describes the work required to make either variant.
    I'm going for the A30 and have one of the Extreme Etchings packs to use to replicate the flush glazing. I've used the Dart Castings chassis kit and as others have described this in detail on here before, I won't bore you with another step by step blog, rather just a bit of a pictorial update.
    Someone told me this conversion would be a bit of a faff and I think I have to agree. Don't know if it was me but I found some of the instructions a little confusing and quite offer ended up referring to the pictures in the MRJ article. Following on Highlandman's advice, I decided to use a 10 thou brass sub floor (good call that) and solder everything to it. I replaced the trussing using 1.2mm angle from Eileens Emporium and think it was worth the extra effort. I had to trim the brass baseplate back as originally it touched the wheel rims and that would have led to a short.

    I've put the original bogies back on for now. I'll replace with either a Bill Bedford sprung bogie or MJT CCU, depending on which I see first. I've some white metal bogie sides to fix to whichever I use.
    All the rodding and linkages will wait until this bit's finished.
    The body was treated with Modelstrip. I was amazed how well it worked on the 33 year old body. Handrails etc are from the Dart kit. Still a couple to do before it's ready for the paint shop. I think the livery will be all over carmine, though I'm tempted by carmine and cream.
    Still more to do but we're getting there. I might even give it a trial run at Yate next weekend.

  12. ullypug
    Not much progress in the last couple of weeks due to work commitments, but I have managed to complete the bogie and get the wheels quartered.
     
    The wheels trial fitted in the chassis block. I used a mixture top hat bearings and ordinary 1/8" washers to suit. The wheels were quartered using my NWSL quartering jig, which I find easier for RTR conversions than the GW Models one. I'm wondering whether to fit cosmetic sides from plasticard. I might make some up with slots than can be put in later on.

    I'm also having a think about the keeper plates and am inclined to squeeze the brake gear out rather than cut and shut.

    The original bogie is cut down the middle and a new stretcher was made from 15 thou nickel silver. The whole thing was epoxied together. I didn't bother with the cut out as per the EMGS manual as the material's so small I don't think it will be noticeable. The swing link pin was fitted using a 2mm top hat bearing for the sleeve and fixed with a 10BA nut & screw.

    Lastly, the cylinders have had some plasticard added to fill the void. I'm planning on shaving off the 3/4 cylinder head cover and fitting a new one. Thinking about fitting a bush to take the piston rod

  13. ullypug
    Evening all. Haven't put an update on here for a while as I've been out and about at the odd exhibition and finishing off some track work for a friends layout. But I have been slowly making progress on the prairie.
    The body's actually quite good I've come to think although there's a fair bit of cutting and carving required.
    The new firebox has been formed from the plasticard carcass made from 80 thou and I've added the bands and lifting covers from a mixture of plasticard and white metal parts. This seemed to take a while but I got there eventually.
    I've fitted a GWR short safety valve dome bought from Branchlines and a Gibson chimney. The motion bracket plate's been cut down and refitted and the buffers cut off in anticipation of new Gibson ones being fitted. The body's had a soaking in Modelstrip to remove the layers of paint I must have added about 30 years ago.
    I've cut the smokebox door off as it wasn't on square. Hopefully I can acquire a new one, maybe from South East Finecast at Expo EM. I've cut the smokebox saddle down ready for the final reassembly.
    I've turned my attention to the Comet chassis by having a good long look at it! First observation was that there's a hole missing behind the rear wheel, so that's been added. Gearbox is sorted (High Level) as is the motor, both from the box of useful leftover bits which means I don't have to buy another one for the time being.
    Edit grammar

  14. ullypug
    OK, I have reached the point where I wished I'd gone down the etched chassis route. So I'm going to stop and have a think about whether I should.
     
    Have spent the evening b*ggering about with the drawbar. All ok after several attempts to solder 2 wires the correct way round. Body put back on. Binds have reappeared on the cylinders again, where previously there were none. Hmm. I have a sneaking suspicion that something's moving around which shouldn't be. I've also decided that there are quite a few things I'm going to have to do to the Hornby body. Smoke deflectors for one. Filling the holes left by the removal of the crest another. Respray, relining, renumbering and a shed load of pipework are going to be required, which is ok but I suspect the chassis is going to be the weak link. I have an awful feeling that I could spend a lot of time fettling the chassis for it to a) not work or B) cause an awful lot of grief.
     
    Options:
    1. Wait until Scaleforum and buy an escapement file. Have one last go at the cylinders.
    2. Acquire etched chassis, spring all axles and do it properly.
     
    Will keep you posted.
  15. ullypug
    Evening all
    My birthday present to myself this year was the Home Edition of Coreldraw. It is quite simple to use and as promised last time I've managed to put together the plans and elevations for Cheddar Station. The building scales out at just over 2ft long. At the moment I've allowed for the building to continue below ground level, but I may well end up removing this.
    My plan is to use a MDF carcass for the buildings with overlays for the Bath stone quoins, door and window surrounds. These will need filing to achieve the necessary chamfers. The limestone walls will probably be scribed clay/filler. Bargeboards, windows and doors will be etched.

    I haven't shown the shed plan as I'm still working out the rooflight details. Also, I haven't drawn the gents toilet at the Yatton end as this will be added after the main building is finished.
  16. ullypug
    Decided to open the Impetus R&H 165DE kit that's been lurking in the cupboard as it's too cold to start spraying the 03 just yet.
     
    This kit is my best ever bargain, ??8 on a second hand stall at a local show including wheels. I thinks there's a couple of bits missing but nothing insurmountable.
     
    Spent yesterday evening soldering - it's nice to build an etched brass kit body again. I can't think but just about everything I've done recently has been whitemetal or plastic. After the complexities of the 03, this should prove to be a quicker project. I don't know much about the history of these locos, but I intend to have it as a works shunter for Wheal Elizabeth (which is a little over the top given its size). It'll probably be finished in ECC Blue and called Jamie.
     
    Anyway, photos attached.
  17. ullypug
    Have had a bit of a modelling spurt and finished off 1454. Should be released to the operating department for Wheal Elizabeth's forthcoming appearance at the Sodbury Vale show on 31 January (though what the engine is doing in that part of Cornwall is anyone's guess...). Minion will be making it debut too. Hmm note to self, must build a new stock box.
     
    Anyhoo, the numberplates and smokebox plates were attached with Johnsons Klear and the final details (buffers, couplings, balance weights etc have been added). Cab glazing is acrylic filed to fit and fixed with Klear.
    Engine was given a few coats of the same before the transfer was added and sealed with (you've guessed it...). Incidentally, what I'm going to do when I get through my bottle I've no idea. Answers on a postcard please.
     
    I've discovered Testor's spray laquer which I think finishes things off rather nicely. The T9 got the same treatment and I must profess to being impressed with the stuff.
    I'm really rather pleased with how this engine has turned out given I've had it for over 30 years. Another ling term project realised from the depths of the modelling cupboard.
    I'll turn my attention to the Airfix A30 autotrailer now and post progress once there is any. Underframe's kind of finished, but it needs a bit of adjustment before I can get one of the bogies back on (ahem).

  18. ullypug
    OK, so as I've mentioned in earlier posts, the intention is to convert Wheal Elizabeth to through running, whilst still being able to run as terminus when the mood takes me.
    Those of you who know your Cornish railway history will be aware that there were several schemes to link the Bodmin and Wadebridge line with the Par to Newquay branch, via an extension of the line from Ruthernbridge up to Roche (Victoria). I've never actually seen the confirmed route, but analysis of the OS maps show a couple of possibilities via Withielgoose or St Wenn. None of this really matters, except such a line would have presumably seen a mixture of southern and western region stock, which is all the excuse I needed!
     
    So to the layout. The right hand end has already been modified for the new board and I've now built the left hand end board too.

    The greenery to the left of the existing bridge will be removed, allowing the wharf to be extended through as the running line. The existing stone bridge will then be the headshunt ( a bit like Grogley Junction). The wharf will become a station platform. The right hand end platform is going to go and be replaced by a relocated slurry loading point. This way we'll be able to load a trainload of bullets or tanks or whatever.The existing slurry siding will become a stabling/refuelling point for the works shunter.

    The new board will allow cassettes for one or both lines, though I may change the headshunt to plain track.

    All the original boards & fiddle yards have remained unchanged, so I can in theory swap around depending on the configuration required. Well that's the plan anyway. Hopefully, I'll find time after Christmas to make a start on the scenics and trackwork.
  19. ullypug
    ...and there was light. And it was not lo, but I saw that it was electric.

    I've been making the proscenium arch and lighting rig for Clevedon. I've gone with the aquarium lighting again, this time 2 x 4ft sun-glo tubes with a slightly warmer tone than I used for Wheal Elizabeth. The arch is in 3 sections and supports off the floor via a couple of hanging rails which slot into the sides as I didn't want the foam boards to take any weight. They're clamped to the layout for stability. The 2 tubes span the adjacent pieces of the arch.

    I've also been planting weeds in the yard and giving everything a waft from the airbrush.

    The layout really needs a backscene...
    Don't know whether to keep it plain grey, skyscape or do one of those clever photo-stiched thingies...
  20. ullypug
    Funny how I always seem to spend Christmas and the New Year period playing with Templot and track plans.
    It's 2 years almost to the day since I first posted a plan of Cheddar on my other blog here, which I've been thinking about doing for some time now.
     
    Whilst I've been building Clevedon, I've been tinkering with the ideas on and off and have been playing with various incarnations of the layout plan. I decided that if I was going to build Cheddar, it would have to be pretty much a dead scale representation, since I've always enjoyed replicating real places (Weston, Clevedon) rather than making things up. Maybe I just don't have the imagination! I never saw Barry Norman's Petherick but the Wild Swan book was an inspiration and I've always liked the idea of deep baseboards and the railway running through the landscape (as Tim Venton's so successfully achieved with Clutton, another favourite and a North Somerset prototype too).
     
    Now I've pretty much settled on the layout, it will be big (well for me anyway) at 8m long and 1.2m deep (28ft x 4ft) in old money. I want to capture everything from the loading bank north of Lower New Road Bridge to the home signal south of Station Road. It'll probably have a traverser at either end so add another 12ft to that. Like I said, it's going to be a biggie. Mind you the main building scales out at 2ft long.
    Anyway, here's the plan.

    I don't think it's going to be a quick layout to build (by my usual standards ahem) so it'll probably occupy me for a few years. It'll need to be end to end and the size is going to cause a few issues, but that's for another day. Plans are afoot. With the realisation that I'm not getting any younger and likely to be approaching 50 before it's finished, I'd like to think I've got at least one big layout in me!
     
    The trouble with Cheddar is it's such a good prototype to model with both fruit and quarry traffic from Batts Coombe and Callow Hill. I know that it's a popular prototype and The Fatadder has plans to build it too here. Hopefully, there's room in the modelling world for two layouts of the same protototype. I'd like to think so anyway.
     
    I have thought about maybe doing another station on the line, but for one reason or another decided against it. I know of a new P4 layout of Sandford and Banwell that's just started out on the exhibition circuit. Wells isn't feasible unless I went 2mm FS which I contemplated for about 30 seconds. I did look at Congresbury in 4mm a few years ago, but decided against it. A layout of Wookey is also under construction in EM (isn't it Malcolm!!), so whichever station you choose chances are someone else will be building it too. I do like the fact that the Cheddar Valley line is local to me; Cheddar's only 10 miles from where I live which I kind of feel connected somehow (or maybe that's just the Thatchers 2011 Vintage at 7.4% talking, hic)
     
    I'd like to make a start this year once Clevedon's finished, and I'm hoping to build the baseboards in the summer. In the meantime, I'll start with the track as it can be built on the workbench. First up will be the single compound on the down side. If I can make that work, the rest should be a doddle... Plus there's no point wasting time building everything else first!
     
    As to period and stock - anything and anything. I've been acquiring panniers, prairies, Collett and Dean Goods, railcars plus the odd Type 2 hydraulic. Some of it runs on Wheal Elizabeth at the moment, though china clay trains and Beattie Well Tanks in the Cheddar Valley is probably stretching it a bit too far!
     
    I spent a very enjoyable day crawling all over the station courtesy of the present building occupants (Wells Cathedral Stone Masons) back in October. When I get time, I'll draw up the survey I did. In the meantime, here are a few pictures:

    The station building

    The main station building entrance

    Lower New Road Bridge

    Building Interior
    The goods shed's been heavily modified and only the east end remains as a converted dwelling. My initial thoughts are that the Axbridge shed is of the same pattern and size, albeit with a different configuration for the goods office.
    More of that later.
    Anyway, comments would be very welcome. Hopefully I'll have something else to post before January 2015!
     
    edited for typos
  21. ullypug
    As my son has had a friend over for a sleepover (curious expression that, very little sleep seemed to occur) I've spent the best part of the day in the modelling room listening to the mayhem downstairs and intervening as and when critical mass approached.
    The outcome is some significant progress on the Peckett. I had done quite a bit since the last post, but things are moving along very nicely.
     
    The wheels have been fitted and quartered. All works so happy days.
     
    The tank underside had been modified to allow the motor and gear box to fit nicely in the firebox. I used a High Level Loadhauler compact + with a D3 drivestretcher with a 108:1 reduction.

    I've also reinforced the lower tank sides and the cab top with 1mm square brass.

    The body now had a bracket at the front which will bolt through from the footplate, whilst the rear of the tank is attached to the cab front by a couple of screws. I will have to sacrifice the rear cab windows if I ever want to unscrew the tank, but it'll only be glued in plasticard.

    The front axle has a simple compensation beam from 0.7mm wire which folds up and through a couple of strategically drilled holes.

    I've made good progress with the loco fittings and I'm particularly pleased that I've managed to spring the lost wax buffers by drilling out part way, fitting a home made spring from phosphor bronze and drilling through the buffer shank to fit a restraining wire once fitted.

    I've made a start on the cylinders and slide bars. CSP use the same method as that's for the 1366 chassis I built, namely a fold up piece that bolts to the side of the mainframes. It's simple and it works.

    So we're nearly there, just the cross heads and con rods to do.

    Couldn't resist taking a photo of the Peckett next to the T9!

  22. ullypug
    Have rediscovered the modelling mojo and engaged on Clevedon.
     
    Firstly, the water tank panels have been soldered together resulting in a pretty good representation of the WC&PR tanks. Does anybody know whether Braithwaite tanks were open topped or did they have a lid? My guess is the latter.

    Having spent a considerable time trying to work out how the various shed buildings and water tank interact, I came to the conclusion (surprisingly) that as the engine and original carriage shed were there first, that would be the logical sequence to constructing the model.
     
    So a drawing was sketched up and plastic (Evergreen Car siding) duly cut.

    The sides are two layers of 20thou, fixed with Limonene solvent with the planking facing outwards as both faces would be visible. Uprights, cross beams and diagonals from Evergreen strip.
     
    This shows the rough construction sequence.

    The rear wall has some added detail in the form of door through to the workshop. I presume the corrugated iron was a repair measure. Thankfully I have a couple of good photos taken inside the shed.

     
    I fixed the shed slab down to the baseboard with pva and constructed a rudimentary pit from 30thou. As far as I can see the pit walls are concrete, so all has been given a basecoat of Sandex exterior paint. This will be weathered after final assembly. I'm going to use air clay for the track infill to the original carriage shed.

    The sides for the engine shed have been placed together for the photo. Next step is to paint the shed sides before final assembly.

    I'm enjoying this!
  23. ullypug
    Whilst I was waiting for ExpoEM to come around, so I could buy some body fittings, I turned my attention to the Comet chassis. Ive used the Brassmasters sprung hornblocks and I have to say I've been very impressed with them so far.
    The chassis is being built pretty much straight as per the instructions and I've got to the stage where I've got the rods on and am turning my attention to the motion. For some reason the motion / slide bar brackets don't appear to be the same width as the slide bars so I've concocted a support piece from scrap etch which will, I hope, be fairly unobtrusive once the body is on.
    As with any outside motion in P4, there's going to be fag papers in terms of clearances but I've thinned down the front crank pin nut, coupling rod etc. Let's see how we get on!
    The gearbox is High Level (what else would it be) and I will use a motor from the Mashima range, which if the stories doing the rounds at Expo are true, may not be around for much longer as Mr Mashima is retiring.
    I've readied the body for the next stage: I acquired a smoke box door and backhead from South East Finecast and I'll return to the body shortly. You can see the blanking piece on the front of the smoke box. You might be able to see the false floor for the cab.
    In between all of this I've put a bit more track down for Cheddar but I'll put those photos in a separate blog.

  24. ullypug
    With the weather pretty awful down here in Somerset (though nowhere near as bad as it is in some parts of the country I grant you), I've just had to retire to the modelling bench and make a bit of progress with the 57xx.
    5757 has reached working chassis stage and it's always a relief when things work. I put it down to Chris' design but this is the third kit I've built and the third which has run straight away without the need for tweaking/swearing/reassembly etc. I did quarter this one by eye though so maybe I'm also getting better at it too!
    After having pondered how I was going to do the pickups, I did what I usually do which is cut the springs off behind the wheels and use the gap to fit the 0.3mm brass wire pickups. That may offend some people but 1) it works and 2) you can't really see the springs anyway. If you can you just need to move further away. Once again I've fitted the brake gear convinced that something somewhere is going to short out and being pleasantly surprised when it doesn't. I should really know better by now...
     
    Bodywork detailing is almost there. I was hoping I'd be able to send the loco to the paint shop but I see I have a few handrails to tweak and I now need to get some replacement water tank vents (which snapped off) as well as a backhead and a crew. Chris' clever gearbox design means there's space to fit these (didn't think of that at the time). Never mind. Gibson buffers, smokebox dart and sanding gear from RJ Models have all been used. I've used oversized Smiths coupling hooks since this model will almost certainly be used for passenger haulage/3 link shunting as opposed to AJ's. I do need to work out how I'm going to fit some form of bolt at the front to fix the body/chassis.
     
    The body will be finished in unlined black with an early BR emblem. That'll have to wait until I've got the remaining bits fitted. Couldn't resist posing it in the yard for a photo though!

  25. ullypug
    Things have progressed a bit to the point where I'm getting ready for painting the loco and chassis.
    I've spent a while detailing the body with an assortment of bits and pieces, wire and rod. I think we have a presentable representation. All I need now is a bit of good weather over the Christmas holiday period and we should be in business.
    Obviously the auto tank has to pull something so I've made a start on my old Mainline auto trailer. It must be at least 32 years old... I've got a Dart Castings kit and a copy of MRJ No 9 to hand. No rush and it'll keep me busy one the festivities have died down. I'm going to do the A30 version and will replace the truss rods and flush glaze with Shawplan laserglaze.
    In the meantime, can I wish you all the complements of the season. I hope you have a good Christmas and a peaceful new year.

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