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JohnDMJ

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    Claude_Dreyfus

    Posted

    "I would love to have said we made excellent progress, but the time flew and although quite a bit was achieved, not as much took place as I would have liked." Darned Tortoise!!!! You really must fit a better control system to your menagerie!

     

    Whilst the track re-laying in photo 2 (note the unballasted track between the tunnel mouth and the last catenary mast!) was successful, there are still some alignment issues at the end in photo 1! Although all the old derailment locations have been removed with pre-welded track, one of the transition curves is causing problems for the bullet trains, so this will be realigned by the PW Gang on Friday!

    SouthernRegionSteam

    Posted

    Congratulations on your first show with Clashot MK II.

    Having now seen Calshot MK II in the flesh, I have to say that I am impressed! :mellow: In the two weeks since I last saw it (naked with no scenery) you've worked hard and achieved a great result and framed it well with the pelmet - Well Done!!

     

    It's a pity that your work on the sluice gate is now hidden, but your Dad's idea of using mirror tiles at that point is a good one.

     

    As always, I look forward to hearing about the continued progress and to seeing the layout at its next show.

    • Like 1
    SouthernRegionSteam

    Posted

    With all that track infilling, I hope you're testing both the points and locos regularly!

     

    I know it did work but ...

     

    I had a similar 'call-out' yesterday; 009Matt had laid the track, motorised the points, tested everything then ballasted and painted the track; then two of the points stopped working! Conclusion - paint in the latching spring which holds the tie bar in place! Solution (as yet fully untested) remove the spring (worked fine with the original PM-1 point motor, but no latching spring) so replaced PM-1 with PM-4 with its own in-built spring. Still awaiting the result!

     

    You may have a tight schedule, but you can not afford to rush!

    SouthernRegionSteam

    Posted

    Very interesting drive it was too:

     

    At Godshill on a single track road, two horses feeding from opposite sides of the road; had to wait for the equine 'gate' to open.

     

    Between Gosdhill and Brook: four more instances of horses just wandering out into the road. I could see the London-plate cars behind me getting frustrated each time I slowed down to a crawl on the approach (but at least they didn't try to overtake!)

     

    M27: three patches of driving rain (couldn't see the bonnet, let alone the stupid assh**es twits who don't know what vehicle lights are for!) (rant over!)

     

    Yes, the NG section needs to be progressed a bit further before wiring is an option but at least this is now possible!

     

    Three platefuls of spaghetti: my defence: We used SEEP PM-1 point motors with the built-in switch; OK the switch is not presently needed but rather than tear the baseboard to bits to rewire if it is at a later stage, the wiring's already there!! (Future proofing?) Also, the nature of the control panel is not yet finalised so more wire than seems needed keeps several options open!

     

    Pleased you've learned something from today's visit, Jam, and will be able to put it into practice with the NG section.

     

    BTW: not quite right with Tip 2! For joints where curved track is involved, solder the track in a straight joint before flexing it to the curve. Doing this will help the track form its own natural transition curve.

     

    Thanks to you and your Dad for your hospitality; we need to organise Round 2!!

    • Like 1
    SouthernRegionSteam

    Posted

    Where do you want to control the points from (i.e. position around layout!) (need to consider grooves in the structure in which to lay the wires

    )

    IIRC, you don't want the LED indication option (for now)?

     

    Rough method for laying motorised point:

    1. establish precise location on track bed (laying track into it is the best method!)

    2. using a fine pencil lead, insert lead into operating hole on tie bar so that it marks the track bed. Operate the point both ways several times so that a line is marked on the track bed.

    3. remove the point and drill a 6mm diameter hole through the centre of the marked line; if the line does not totally vanish,try 7mm, 8mm, etc. drills!

    4. replace the point, fix and verify that the operating hole never goes outside the drilled hole!

    5. continue laying the track until the next point.

    then the tricky bit:

    1. insert point motor link arm through holes in track bed and tie bar.

    2. operate the point whilst lightly holding the point motor. You want the motion of the motor to end up parallel to that of the tie bar!

    3. when happy that the mid throw of the point is in the mid throw of the motor, and that their paths are parallel, mark the positions on the mounting hole centres.

    4. prepare the marked positions to accept the mounting screws.

    5. fix motor in place and verify that by moving its armature, the point operates successfully.

     

    think that covers it, but if I (or any other reader) think of anything else, it'll be posted here!

    SouthernRegionSteam

    Posted

    "They won't be glued in place until the trackwork and electrics are done".

     

    NO, they won't!

     

    Sorry to be forceful, Jam, but if you want a working layout, get the track, then the electrics working before you even think about ballasting the track or any other scenic effects! By all means, have a plan and a view of what you want to end up with, but by getting the look right before the track is like putting a cake in the oven before you've mixed and tasted the ingredients! (Unless you really want a diorama?)

     

    Do you have your new points and PM-1 motor yet?

     

     

    SouthernRegionSteam

    Posted

    Is the trackbed fully assembled, or still separate pieces?

     

    When you get the points, ask for a SEEP PM1 point motor as well (just one!); this is easier to mount than the peco one and has the single pole switch built-in.

     

    If the pillars are as yet unfixed, then you can adjust their position so that the point motors can be mounted. Then, as has been mentioned elsewhere, you need to consider how to gain access to the fitted motor - just in case!

    SouthernRegionSteam

    Posted

    I like the look of this one too!

     

    Even the passing loop looks like it could take a loco and 3 or 4 wagons! Is your preference for set track or flexible? With short wheelbase loco and wagons, you would be able to get some tighter curves with flexible track.

     

    Also, if most of your track is embedded in road surface, the sleepers will be hidden so it does not matter if you use OO9 or N scale trackbed, just as long as you use the correct stuff where the sleepers are visible!

     

    I guess, since I served my apprenticeship at British Hovercraft Corporation (which was Saunders Roe Aviation, who built the Princess) and who have now evolved into GKN Aerospace, that having helped to recycle bits of the old flying boat is to be expected!

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