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dibateg

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  1. After hawking the loco's around Telford ( sorry I didn't catch up with you Jeff ), I've been pressing on. The platforms, sandboxes and upper steam pipes are now added.
    I had to back track, as I had fitted washout plugs and not mud holes to the boiler. So I sweated those out and replaced them with circular covers recovered from my Andrews 2P etches. I thinned them down a little after soldering on. From the photos, the retaining nut is either very small or non-existent. It looks like in BR days the covers were often retained, surprisingly, only occasionally being missing. So here is the first difference between the two locos, 43156 has two covers missing. I managed with a little gynaecology work to insert two mud hole castings next to the firebox.

     

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    The Irwell book is an essential source of information, and the lightening holes are not etched out in the drag beam, and I didn't want it plain, so with a little estimation and careful drilling, and probably no - one will ever see this once they are finished - but I will be able to sleep at night:-

     

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    And then as fitted:-

     

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    And the real thing, although I doubt that part is original !:-

     

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    I managed on Monday to clamber all over the real thing and get a whole load of detail shots, or am I just making more work for myself!

    So it is back to the chassis next, and I need to workout how I will fit my home made plunger pick ups.

     

    • Like 7
  2.  I decided to strip those lovely coaches in a previous post. they look tidy enough in the pics, but I think spraying in sunshine was a mistake, the paint dried too quickly and the surface was too rough to recover, so they have been dunked in cellulose thinners today.. a depressing and messy job. Ah well, always learning..

    I was roughly analysing the time spent, the parts for this afternoons session had mostly been prepared yesterday evening, with the addition of the rear ends for the frames cutting out and preparation ( 1hr ), soldering - 2hrs, and cleaning up - 1.5 hrs at least, I am up to this stage:-

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    Out of interest, here are my cleaning up tools, a ground off broken file and the emery sticks, that were obtained from a model car stand at the Bristol show last year - they are invaluable. Blame Dikitriki for my fanatical cleaning up regime!

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    • Like 2
  3. Next job was to attach boiler and smokebox to the cab. Then clean up and put on the boiler bands and other detail. The boiler bands were put on in their entirety and then ground back where not required. I deviated from the instructions and made the pipe conduit up as a separate unit, as I was not confident I could solder the cover on neatly enough next to the boiler. It is a separate item in any case and is only attached at it's bolting on points.

     

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    Flat headed pins pass through holes in the mounting frame into the boiler:-

     

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    So both engines are now at this stage:-

     

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    • Like 6
  4. I spent yesterday rolling the boilers and shaping up the fireboxes. Even though I use a set of GW rollers, it's the one weak point in my constructional skills It just takes patience, careful work and no rushing. I did make a couple of tiny errors - not checking that the boiler edges were fully aligned before soldering up for one thing, but it was only fractional.  I made the same mistake on the 8F, anyway that is fixed now. Apologies for the rough workshop shots taken during construction, the problem is I am taking them into the light..

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    The firebox wrapper is thin - but that allows it to be shape easily to fit the transition ring casting. The only way to do this is to solder from the outside to ensure it is fully seated. One I prepared earlier is in the background.

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    • Like 3
  5. So yesterday between sleeps, I managed to finish the detailing on the front platform assemblies, on to the cab today I hope. Up to now it's all been sub assemblies. Now its just beginning to look like something significant:-

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    I made a decision on the numbers, 43155 and 43156, both Colwick engines, both unlined, grimy stained and unglamorous! Both had AWS, so will need all that pesky extra piping...

    • Like 9
  6. So an update on where I am up to, the frames are assembled using slot and tab, so everything can be assembled before soldering. This view is post soldering with the tabs ground off:-

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    Then the overlays are seam soldered on and cleaning up is next:-

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    The whole front section is a sub assembly:-

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    I am going through cycles of reading instructions, cutting out and cleaning up parts, assembly, soldering, wash, clean up. Then on to the next phase of construction. This is looking like the best kit I have ever done.

    • Like 3
  7.  An early start after being unable to sleep allowed me to get the last jobs done on the Thompsons, so they are now ready for the paintshop:

    Generally, that was modifying the buffer springs, relocating the dynamoes, adding the roof strips and general tidying up.

     

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    also this ex LMS full brake.
     

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    A typically rainy Welsh summer day at home on call allowed me to get stuck in on my next project. Two MOK Ivatt Class 4s. Not bad, delivery Saturday and contruction beginning Sunday! I spent the evening running through the excellent instructions and examining prototype information in the Irwell book.
    Here's most of whats in the box:-

     

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    And here we go! Start with the chassis:-
    post-6972-0-37193700-1375784015_thumb.jpg



    And this far without using the soldering iron, the next step is to add the sanding valves :-
     

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    • Like 4
  8. Back to 4mm scale for a day or so to make the signals for Geoff Taylors Penmaenpool. Here is the distinctive bracket signal that is opposite the hotel ( for those familiar with the location). With one of the 4 single posts alongside. I need to check for positioning, then add the cranks and tidy up. The ghastly weather has kept me inside and boosted the progress of several projects.

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    I used to be able to manage forming tumblehomes in 4mm scale with no problem. 7mm scale is another story. I managed to write off a set of sides, as the brass is a heavier gauge in this scale and I found it was like trying to bend a spring! Jonathan Matthews came to the rescue with this technique:- The the sides are clamped between a piece of 2x1 and skirting board in the workmate. Starting with just a little projecting the side can then be bent over the curve in the skirting board . This is done in steps - 2-3mm projecting more each time. This results in an over formed tumblehome. This can then be brought back to the desired curve to match the etched end by pressing down with fingers and working along the side with the upper part of the side overhanging the edge of the workmate, so that only the tumblehome receives pressure.
    Then emery sticks of reducing grades are used to reduce the fold marks, ending up with a polish with wet & dry.

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    Once finished, and polished with 1000 grade, the sides look a lot better. I won't say these are perfect, but at least I have found a way to do it and am refining my technique... I tend to build in batches, and I remembered that I had built a whole set of LMS bogies a few years ago, so decided to include the 50' LMS brake in this curent project. So work on detailing the sides will now take place whilst I look out on the snow covered garden..

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    • Like 4
  9. Whilst I'm awaiting the Flying Pig and other jobs to materialise - here is a kit that can be knocked out in a couple of days - the Connoisseur BR Bogie Bolster E. A great build, it fits together and the instructions are very very good. I changed the white metal buffers for nickle ones I had in the spares box as well as turning up my own posts.

     

    Recommended!

     

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    • Like 9
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