jamest

Hi Oliver,

Great to see the layout again, and thanks for your kind words.

I think I over-engineered the wood content in the frame work so I hope you are hernia free after moving it about 🙂

all the best,

James

Hi,

Enjoying following your progress.

Thanks for the tip off on Fair Price models - just ordered both of their 7mm low relief industrial buildings - they seem very good value for money.

regards,

James

Hi,

Enjoying following your build.

Hope the move goes well.

atb

James 

Hi,

The stonework looks great.

Regards,

James

Hi,

The ballast looks great - is that limestone and granite colours mixed?

I've also nicked your idea of strip wood for the base of the platform (not started yet) - I've worked in OO for so many years I'm still getting used to what size/height things are in O.

Looking forward to following your progress.

Regards,

James

Just seen this linked on another thread.

I have never met graham but he has helped me with advice recently and seems a genuinely nice guy…borne out by all the messages here.

hopefully he will feel better enough soon to read these messages of support.

All the best to him, his family, and friends too.

Regards,

 James 

Hi Graham,

The layout is progressing really well - I'm watching with interest and taking notes - I'm a little bit behind you!

Apologies if you've mentioned it already - in your last photo it looks like you have connections for DCC and DC?

regards,

James

Hi,

I have been following your build with interest….I am starting out in O gauge and I am attempting a similar subject in a slightly smaller space.

I have the same station building and a small signal box from the same manufacturer. I would echo your thoughts on them….very good value for money. Good tip on the chimney positions.

look forward to following your progress.

Regards,

 James 

Hi all, 

Not much in photo terms but started paining the rail sides today. I'm using tamiya Hull red. It will be toned down with dark washes and dusting later. 

I'll also dry brush the sleepers a bit before ballasting. Although in my experience the dustiness of some ballast will lighten things a little. 

Regards, 

James

Hi,

Apologies if I am being stupid here - on the lincs system you can couple anywhere? It does not have to be over a magnet?

I see how the wire pulls down over a magnet to uncouple but I'm struggling to visualise how they push past each other to couple away from a magnet.

Regards,

James

2 hours ago, 47606odin said:

Regarding pointing brickwork, the best way I have found is use fine polyfilla, rubbed in the joints with a finger, and once nearly dry, wipe over with a damp cloth to remove excess, and then weather to suit

Hi,

I have seen, and heard, about that method. I have plenty of off cuts I can practice on but I am reasonably happy with the bridge now. I needed to tone down the mortar a bit and I think I have achieved that. Its also had the added bonus of adding darker areas on the brick faces and generally made it all look a little more aged.

I think the 'wideness' or 'boldness' of the motor is also a result of the choice of embossed sheet type too..... another thing I plan to experiment with - but possibly not on the same layout.

All that said I would never rule out a method until I have tried it - do you use ready mixed stuff?

Regards,

James

Hi all, 

Happy new year. 

I've been making steady progress over Dec with the bridge, signal box and station building. 

I've also bought an exact editions sub to railway modeller. They had a series on a small light railway in O gauge and I was interested to read about how he had sprayed the track with a rattle can from halfords.... Camouflage brown. It is a good match for my normal sleeper grime and I hate spraying the track with an airbrush. 

So I bought one yesterday and tried it today. Its matt, covers well and dries quickly, even at this time of year. The colour looks good as a base too. 

I wanted to spray the basic colour while I had good access and before I added the platform and back scene. 

I've asked about signal box and starter signal positioning on the signalling bit of the forum. I think I'm going to have to apply rule 1 to have the box and signal the scenic side of the bridge. I'm also going to control the three points from the box... No ground frame. It seems reasonable as the box will have good visabilty of said points. I have some point rodding, stools and cranks from wizard models. 

Anyhew here are some pics... 

I'm still musing over positioning the signal box here... It will depend on what I do with the bay platform... And how long I want the platform to be. 

Regards 

James 

8 hours ago, Michael Hodgson said:

The disconnected line running from the fiddle yard is presumably deemed to be accessed from the running line other side of the scenic break - that means there is a notional pointwork connection to the running line somewhere on the far side of the scenic break - the layout of this will affect your Signal positioning. 

 

I like the bridge by the way.

thanks.

I envisage a simple two points the other side of the bridge. The ‘bay’ joins the middle running line, and the front line joins the middle running line to create a single track.

I am happy to have the box on the scenic side suggested to connect to signals off scene if they would tend to be the other side of the bridge. Then have it control the points in view, with rodding/wire disappearing off under the bridge for the two unseen points, trap points, signalling, etc.

The impression I’m getting is that it is strange to have the box and signalling on the scenic side of the bridge. Presumably because the single line access would be dealt with/protected where the lines converge off scene?

I would have liked to have the other side of the loop scenic but my shed size does not allow it. I made a decision early not to put the fiddle yard outside. That may come next time!

Regards,

 James 

Hi all,

I was preparing myself for information overload as I knew there would be plenty of advice! Please don’t take that the wrong way, I’d like to learn a bit.

I’m afraid I am one of those annoying people with developing plans and the tendency to change things.

I ‘see’ the practical point on the signal, and box, on the non scenic side of the bridge. I assume that if the box is off-scene the loco release would be ground frame. If I keep it scenic side, with a bit of modellers licence, I could control from the box.

To be clear the running line is the platform line (the station building is roughly where it should be). The platform will extend nearly to the box shown. I thought that some goods traffic might sit off the platform line waiting to depart after the passenger service arrives. But I suppose that is an unlikely concentration of activity on a country branch terminus.

I don’t want to be someone who asks for advice, and then ignores it, but I would like to include the signal box scenically if it can be slightly justified!

thanks

james

Hi all,

I have a thread running on my layout build in the 7mm section and I was hoping for some advice on signalling and point control.

Here is the basic track plan.

I have started and I am about to commit to platforms, signal box,etc. I also want to put down the point rodding prior to ballasting.

question one: signals

where should I place the starter signal? I think in front of the signal box, not between it and the over bridge scenic break. I might want to have goods traffic waiting in the loop to depart. Can that be done with a ground signal? Or do I need another starter? At the moment I plan to have goods in the bay and not passenger services. I should add this converges to a single line after the bridge.

Starter as red below?

here is what will be the scenic break at the end of the cork:

Question two: point rodding.

is it ok to run all three scenic points from the signal box? I did think the one in the loop might be via a lever arm and the runaround controlled by the signal box?

I just want to get things planned out before I commit the structures and buildings.

I am happy to compromise as it is a modelled compressed scene. But I would like to get it make some sort of sense!

thanks in advance

James

21 hours ago, 37114 said:

As it is now "officially announced" Peasevern Yard's first exhibition outing will be the SWAG members day on 24th April 2022. Looking at the line up it is shaping up to be a great show.

Hi,

Is this the one at Taunton? I believe I am due to come along and help Richard with Orchard Road.

Look forward to seeing this in the flesh too.

regards,

James

Hi all, 

OK, I've been busy with the paints and I've tried a couple of methods. 

First was to paint all over with enamel humbrol 70 and let dry throughly. Then paint with a cream acrylic humbrol 103 and wipe off with tissue....

This looks good but I was not keen on the prominence of the lighter mortar colour. 

I also tried some acrylic paint mixed as I paint... Burnt sienna, black and burnt umber.

Painted over my previous efforts…..

It was then sealed with matt car lacquer.... 

Then I used the same 103 cream on the mortar but wiped with my finger.. 

Difficult to see here but the different shades of brick shows through and is deeper as it comes off the faces better with the lacquer applied before mortar. 

I still felt it looked too light and dominated by the lighter mortar so I nervously applied some grey wash in an area probably covered by terrain and liked it better. You can see the difference below after I expanded it a bit when I was happy.... 

I plan to do the rest with a grey wash later... 

Regards, 

James 

Hi,

Sorry to hear you will not be pursuing this layout, I was following with interest - but I totally understand - hope your N gauge adventure ticks all the boxes for you.

I'm moving to O gauge steadily but I'm trying to keep as much of my OO stuff as I can because its always more expensive to buy it back later. But everything is reasonably expensive nowadays, whatever the scale, and we don't always have the luxury of keeping everything and just buying more stuff!

all the best,

James

1 hour ago, tjf4375 said:

Thanks James, that's really nice to hear. Hope you're keeping well and still going with your layout? Hopefully more to come on SEV in the next few weeks - I've got a lot of work to do but the mojo is definitely there again so hopefully it will be enjoyable - I'll stop doing it when it feels like hard work lol!

Hi again,

yes still going….changing my mind, starting, finishing, selling stuff!

I’m currently working on North Molton, in my sig below, and an O gauge similar project (not in my sig). It’s in the 7mm section under “New layout - 7mm newbie BLT” 

look forward to your updates.

You may remember we lost our two cats in the year before you. We have a couple more now, not everyone wants to I know, but the house was empty without any cats, and there were two farm cats nearby in need of a good home.

Cheers,

James

Hi,

Great surprise to see this one pop up again.

Good to hear you have got your mojo back and really looking forward to seeing you progress. Your work always spurred me on to get better myself.

all the best,

James

Hi Ade,

Can I ask what ballast you have used? apologies if you've mentioned it already.

Love the look of your track work.

regards,

James

1 hour ago, mudmagnet said:

Had a great day with Orchard Road. Quite a few visitors and enjoyed the relaxed atmosphere. Great to get back to an exhibition!

 

Many thanks to David and team!

 

Totally agree, great to go to an exhibition again. Lovely hosts and great cakes! 

Regards, 

James 

Hi all,

After dusting the layout off and having a tidy up and play I’ve decided to keep it!

I can easily transport it so I think I will finish it off with people, lights, signals, etc and exhibit it locally. I should be able to do it alongside my O gauge work.

To that end I’ve traded in my 4MT and I am now the proud owner of a Dapol Western!

Best laid plans and all that!

regards

James

3 hours ago, Hal Nail said:

This guide may help.

 

http://intentio.co.uk/painting-tips/

 

 

Thanks guys, 

I have seen the intentio guide.... That's what I used to buy my colours! 

The video is useful too. 

James 

14 hours ago, bgman said:

Nicely done James.

 

Might be worth applying some filler to the edges and scribe the brick joints for consistency ? 

 

Hope you don't mind me saying.

 

G

Hi Grahame,

No problem, you are absolutely correct, I have been honest and shown the worst edges there!

I need to be more careful on edges in the future, perhaps bevelling the edges or even overlapping them to trim back. I was concentrating a lot on lining up the brick courses all over!

I am really pleased how it has turned out, but I am very nervous about the painting side of things. I tried a few times in OO but always went back to scalescenes papers as I was never happy with the results. I have a few books and references though…..and I’ve invested in several recommended red brick colours. I plan to practice on scrap pieces first.

Regards,

 James