DRSJOE

Added the 'How to' hth

Great work andy, and i would always recommend a tripod, one for stability and two if you have to set it up you think of compostion so get a better picture. Are they steve's transfers or your own?

I'm afraid not, after i took the picture i sealed it up and i fear i will do some damage re-opening it, the best way i can describe it is a 'lego block' with 4 round bits all moulded plastic with the LED i presume behind it, the problem is it bleeds when other lights are on so you simply paint the whole thing but leave the ends for the light to escape, simple but effective. hth, Joe

Will transfer the How to soon, but i've put the picture up so you can see how to and might not need the description off the old forum. How to: When i first got my traintronics signal i was slightly disapointed by the light bleed, at the time I had to accept it. But the other day I decided to have a fiddle (technical word) around with my signal, it turns out a simple 5 min job will fix the problem. Firstly you have to prise gently the back pannel off the back of the signal, you will then be faced with the back of the circuit board which with some gentle pressure on the lights from the front will pop it out; now i will be honest i don't know how they work but i think they are very small led's. The problem is that it is all a molded plastic part that bleeds light. So the solution is to simply paint the plastic that you don't need in ideally black as it will stop any light bleeding through, just leave the end 'bumps' clear to allow the light to escape. Put it back together and job done I have only tested it once but the results are much better with no light bleed what so ever, so if you want a cheaper alternative to scratchbuiling but don't want the quality issues then it is a simple solution. Hope this helps someone, Thanks, Joe