Suzie

It is a hard choice, keep it original, or make it look like a proper searchlight! My choice was swayed by seeing a lot of the pointed hoods in the wild!

Listening to Chris this morning reading out his book he does sound like a perfectly rational normal person. Everyone else is a bit odd!

I think what emphasises the red flash is that there is dark either side of it, so when going from yellow to green while looking directly along the beam you get yellow - dark - red - dark - green, and unlike when incandescent bulbs turn on and off there is no slow warm up and down, it is a very hard flash (a rare situation when a mechanical mechanism is faster than an electrical one!).

If modelling a 4-aspect, you need the red flash on the lower lamp, but the top yellow needs the slow warm up and down just like any other incandescent bulb.

The biggest problem I have with this test is the way that the 'answers' are formulated (definitely agree, slightly agree, etc).

 

Now I may be wrong here, but I can only agree or disagree* with something; there are no degrees of agreement, or are there?

 

 

*Or sit on the fence

Perhaps that is part of the test? I just find it stressful!

40, so I don't win the loco :-(

I do know a few complete airheads who would score close to zero. I sometimes wonder what hell their lives must be with no interests other than what everyone else is thinking, and can never understand why they are acclaimed as superior members of society. Clearly higher on the score makes for much more interesting people that I could actually have a conversation with.

I just wonder why all those low scoring people think they are normal, when clearly they are not because normal people are just like me, and the vast majority of us interesting modellers.

A few years of experience means that I am able to plan short conversations with the zeros, most social interaction can be coped with by learning and applying coping strategies. I don't really see what the point of a diagnosis is really unless someone is being victimised - it really is not going to tell you anything you did not already know!

...That said - there is a project here that claims to do DCC decoding using two PICAXES: http://www.picaxe.com/Project-Gallery/PICAXE-based-DCC-Accessory-Decoder/

However, note how high the clock rates need to be to do this task, and the fact that the job is divided between the two devices to make it work.

Decoding DCC packets and providing an accurate servo signal at the same time is a impossible to do completely accurately in software alone in a single processor. This means that to do a good job of being responsive to DCC packets as well as accurately positioning the servos you either need a hardware PWM driver to provide the servo pulses, or two processors, or compromise somewhere.

This approach using two devices is a very sound one for two reasons :-

1. the processors can be optimised to their respective tasks (decoding and positioning).

2. PICs are cheaper than dedicated hardware of sufficient resolution.

The processor speeds used in this are a bit excessive for decoding DCC, but not too excessive when accurately positioning servos. While the 14-bit position resolution for a servo that can be acheived at 64MHz might seem a bit excessive (it equates to about 1/20th of a degree), for slow movements it does eliminate visible (and audible) stepping on quality servos that is very pronounced when only 8-bit resolution is used (yes, half a degree steps are very noticeable).

Most single processor servo decoders will compromise somewhere, and running a fast clock will minimise delays in packet decoding while servos are being controlled acurately by interrupt routines. At one time PICaxe did offer some SX processor based solutions which might have been quite useful in this scenario if the processors could be run at their full 150MHz clock speed - but using them would be a bit keen.

If you want to future proof without committing, cut the links under the point and add two dropper wires connected to the switch rails as well as two wires connected to the stock rails. With the frog dropper these are the only five wires you require, and in the mean time you can just wire the two switch rail droppers to the frog dropper and not need a switch, if things prove to be unreliable it is easy to rewire with a frog switch under the baseboard without disrupting anything.

The Vitrains is a standard NEM mounting - just not the one that is useful! That said the solution I used was to cut off the tension lock and use the tail glued to a N^o19.

The signals are quite easy to test - just red and black wires to 16V AC (possibly available from the test track controller) and touch the yellow wires together to make it work.

I suspect that the MultiMaus as we know it is about to be history too along with its accessories now we have the z21, and the 10813 Wi-Fi MultiMaus is on the horizon.

Matt

Nice review of the Multimaus, a couple of things might be worth clarifying:-

1. The full programming track connection (so you can read back CVs) is provided on the optional 10785 Rocomotion interface (which also includes a computer interface and comes with a license for a cut down version of Railroad and Co).
2. If you have a spare 10761 or 10764 amplifier it can be used as an additional booster just by connecting the 'booster out' connections together with a 4-way cable. Just make sure that you Don't use the second 'Master' or 'Slave' connectors!
3. Route setting is not impossible, it can be done with the optional 10772 RouteControl.

'D' connectors are on the whole a lot better than DIN plugs and both are typically rated for 5A, but I would not trust a DIN to stay together as well as a 'D'. There are some high quality DIN connectors that are worth considering and those latching ones mentioned above are probably of the better type.

UF5400 is a the high power diode I use for this, they are 3A high speed diodes so will make a 6A BM1 equivalent. I have picked these up quite cheaply but it might be worth trying to find some low cost equivalents (any of UF5400-UF5404 will do). I find it is usually cheaper to get all the diodes the same rather than two different types. I think that Rapid is the cheapest source I can find for them at the moment:-

http://www.rapidonline.com/axial-rectifier-diodes/3a-ultrafast-rectifier-diodes-29686

I use the 4+1 arrangement all with the same diode to give a minimum 1.5V of asymmetry, 3+1 only gives 1V which might be pushing it a bit, but I think that the Zimo decoders can be adjusted to make them more or less sensitive. These diodes do tend to exhibit lower forward voltage than the 1V specified in the data sheet when lightly loaded (i.e. a slowing and stopping train!) so assuming 0.5V forward voltage drop per diode is not unreasonable. It is the minimum asymmetry you have to worry about - too much will not hurt.

There are a lot of different types of Schottky diode, where there tends to be a trade-off between low forward voltage and other characteristics (like high current) - so not all Schottky diodes have a very low forward voltage so you may be just as well to use a fast recovery diode like the UF54xx instead anyway.

Sometimes the cranks just work - and other times they are a bit of a nightmare. I will probably look at using a see-saw next time I make one.

Don't forget that GWR signals are lower quadrant when looking at the white pin sticking out - it does not get in the way.

There is a servo motorising base available for the ratio signals now that some might find useful

http://www.shapeways.com/product/T897FTWDQ/sbr-ratio-signal-motorising-base-sprue-of-five

With an average ticket price of *91p I think that prices need to rise in line with ticket prices on the mainland! Average ticket price of £4 would see profit of £400 000.

* 1.1 million passengers per year with an annual income of £1 million from site linked above.

Suzie x

From reading the PC2 instruction manual which stresses the importance of correct mechanical alignement of point motors it would appear that the PC2 has a low voltage CDU that only outputs track voltage, and not the 25V CDU output typically required by most Peco/Hornby/Seep motors for reliable operation.

I apologise for the error - I was just going by experience in that the magnets supplied in the Kadee starter kit were not suitable for code 75 track and the sleepers had to be cut away before they would fit using the fitting guide that is also supplied in the starter kit.

If Kadee make a magnet that is small enough to be fitted to code 75 track why do they not supply it with the starter kit since it can also be fitted to code 83 and code 100 when using the glueing guide since gap filling adhesive will be required anyway to get it at the correct level.

It is not like Kadee instructions make it clear that more suitable alternatives are available - this page is still currently on the Kadee website:-

http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page321.htm

I quote:-

"Ready to mount on top of ties with Code 100 rail.
Cut out ties if mounting Code 83, 70, 55 or 40 rail."

It might be worth mentioning the mis-information to Kadee. I would do it myself if they had not banned me from the forum!

I thought it was the dropper that should be 0.4mm above the rail not the magnet (which must be below the droppers). When I tried fixing the magnet with the Kadee height gauge it would not sit all the way down on code 75 rail heads until I removed the sleepers.

Code 75 rail is not high enough to allow the Kaydee permanent magnets to sit on top of the sleepers - they have to be cut away so it can be recessed (83 - 75) thingys

I always use the Kadee screws in to tapped holes. Then when I use the height gauge if packing is required I can just unscrew and pop in a shim or two.

I cannot find any examples of the 'Eckon' style of signal with square bottom and round top on the Southern. I believe that these were supplied by GRS so if GRS were involved with any Southern signalling schemes that might be a clue to find some. Most early Southern pictures I can find have round top and bottom just like the above picture (which is central division).

If you do use feathers rather than splitting signals, having 3-lamp feathers rather than the more usual 5-lamp variety is a typically Southern feature that I don't think was found anywhere else. Here is a less than ideal picture of one at Woking on the South West division:-

...The suggested Nos. 141 and 146 appear to be long(er) versions. Is this an individual user preference or is there a reason to use the longer ones when fitting couplings with draft boxes?

A couple of reasons:-

1. When your stock has buffers, the longer the shank of the coupler (and effectively the larger the turning radius of the coupler) the tighter the track radius that can be accommodated for a given closeness of coupling on the straight.

As the coupler moves from side to side in its draft box it gets closer to the buffer beam at the extremes of travel and therefore the buffers will touch. A longer shank means that this effect is reduced.

2. You usually need a long shank to get the draft box to sit flush with the buffer beam and not protrude beyond it and have the coupler head suitably in front of the buffer faces.

Hi Tony

Nice page here that might help showing splitting signals rather than feathers:-

http://www.railwaywondersoftheworld.com/modern-signals1.html

Might be a bit before your period though.

They don't seem to worry too much about beefy portals on the continent.This viaduct in a historic setting is fitted with French style portals, and it is now being four tracked with a new steel space frame viaduct next to it:-

People will soon get used to it. It has been so long since there was any significant new infrastructure in the UK that people are no longer used to change.

As I understand it of the big DIY chains it is only B&Q that makes a profit, which explains why B&Q moved to a new bigger out of town store while Homebase halved the size of theirs before eventually closing it. I only went to Homebase as a last resort because in the unlikely event they has what I wanted in their range let alone in stock it would be double the price of B&Q.

I used to like Wickes, but the offering was always at the low quality end anyway (mains cable which could not be stripped easily because the inner insulation was stuck to the outer sheath!) and that is getting worse (knotty pine door not made of pine any more but some engineered balsa like wood veneered in knotty pine for twice the price).

I tend to go to Travis Perkins now because at least what they have is compatible with building regs, standards etc. and sensible sizes and when you ask for a good price they tend to give you a good discount on the quite high advertised prices (I have had 80% on one occasion!). Not so easy to find stuff online as Screwfix or B&Q though.

The local independent building supplies is just a bunch of miserable bumbling geriatrics with a limited range of stuff at prices higher than Travis Perkins - so why bother. The Travis Perkins staff are knowledgeable and incredibly keen to help.

B&Q did start to rebrand like a branch of the very good Home Depot in the USA (you could not tell the difference) but I think they have dropped that idea and gone back to a more limited range (perhaps because Screwfix has come along). After all it is not like they have much competition left (Marley, Do it all, Texas all gone and Homebase a declining waste of space).

Suzie x