Dmudriver

It's on the list for the Christmas period, Jon. Rod

I did wonder when I wrote that if there'd be any comments!! It wasn't deliberate!!

As I mentioned above, I've been running the 2-car 108 with the 122 today. But not without a problem - or two!! (in the 108) When I started running it after I got it back, it was stopping on two of the frogs in the stabling point - but only when running in one direction and only when one side was running over the frogs. It wasn't even changing the frog juicer when it needed to. I couldn't figure it out and assumed it was "just one of those things" - probably to do with my not being used to frog juicers - until it happened on a frog in the fiddle yard. That made me determined to sort the problem! So, one direction only (trailing bogie leading), and always a frog on the right hand side pointed to a faulty pickup on that bogie. Sure enough, that's what it was: the bogies are wired together to improve pickup and the wires from the trailing bogie are plugged into a little socket near the motor bogie. The plug had come out of the socket. Unfortunately, to fasten it meant taking off the bogie which then started a train of other events - loose bogie retaining screw, a couple of wires hanging on by a thread (literally!!). So I spent a very pleasant - if frustrating at times - few hours sorting it all out. It now (5 hours later) works perfectly. Added to which, one wheelset of the motor bogie was derailing on one blade of the new crossover. It's the only one that does it so that pointed to an out of gauge wheelset. While I had the bogie off I managed to tighten it up a little which helped but didn't completely sort the problem. I found, and removed, a piece of ballast that was stopping the point blade moving completely and then a few swipes with a file along the corner of the switch blade sorted the problem. All in all a pleasant way to spend an afternoon and my 2-car 108 runs really nicely now. More soon. Rod

I think that's a fair point, 47606odin. Anyway, I've had it running on the layout today: there was actually a window of reasonable weather around lunchtime, so I had a play - full length of the layout and covers off. The 122 does run rather nicely. I reset a couple of CVs so that it matches the running of the other ESU-chipped units. I ran it on it's own and in multiple with the 2-car 108. I am well pleased with it!! Here's a couple of pics of it posed with the 131. As I thought, the different liveries do draw the eye away from a direct comparison, although the close up of the 2 head to head doesn't seem wrong to me. Good question, Paul! And the answer is ..... I don't know. I've not taken the bogie off and it's hard to see from underneath. Here's a pic of the motor bogie, anyway. I suspect the motor is probably a Mashima and the 1833 variety at that. The bogie in the 108 is pictured below and that certainly has a Mashima in it - I've had it off today (see the next post). The bogie above is more recent than the 108's - notice the straight cut "plastic" main gear wheel in the older one as opposed to the cross cut metal one in the upper picture. The 108s has obviously seen a lot more use than the 122s!!! As a matter of interest the trailing bogie in the 122 is an all brass affair - see pic below - whereas the 108's is a standard Westdale bogie. HTH. Rod

Referring back to my last post and to use politician-speak, I misspoke!! Or rather I wrote what I heard but I think I heard what I wanted to hear!! In other words, the 122 is not an Easybuild kit, but a Westdale!! My apologies!! However, taking up Paul's point, I've photographed the 122 with the 131 and my 2-car 108 - which is also a Westdale kit - in order to compare them. Here are the head-on pics - first from fairly close: this does give the impression that the middle one (the 122) is narrower than the others so, thinking it might be the camera, I tried one from further away (no Father Ted comments, please!! ) And then from the other end. They still look the same! Unfortunately, I've no accurate measuring tool but a ruler measuring in mm shows no appreciable difference. The differences become a bit more apparent in the sideways-on shots - front and rear of all 3: Whilst the roof heights are virtually the same, the Westdale ones have a distinct straight slope back from the top of the cab, whereas the Easybuild is much more rounded - which could possibly explain why the Westdale roof looks higher. What is not so obvious from the pics, although it can just be made out in the first one, is that the edges of the cabs are more rounded in the Easybuild than the Westdale. The proof of the pudding, though, is what it looks like on the layout: running with the 101 as an RR set, it looks OK to me: I'll try it with the 131 some time and see how that looks but with the different liveries making comparison difficult I doubt there'll be anything too obvious. An interesting exercise, though!! More soon. Rod

Thanks, Paul. I'll put them side by side - and front by front - just to check: you may well have a point It does look like it's got a clerestory roof but that's just the way the light's shining on it! I've checked that already! Pics to follow soon. Rod

There's another new kid on the block!! This one: It's an Easybuild Class 122, with an ABC Gears bogie and ESU sound chip with SWD sound file. He (she?) is on loan with an option to buy. It does run rather nicely but I've yet to involve it in a full operating session - what with the weather and Christmas preparations!! Also back home is my blue/grey 2-car Class 108 which, now that it's got 4 driving wheels of the same diameter, runs very nicely. It's also had the paintwork touched up (thanks, Dave!!) - it was showing it's age after many years of use - and not all on my layout. My new phone camera seems quite good so I'll try and do a video soon - tho' it's very likely to be after Christmas. More soon. Rod

Or reduce the operating voltage, Simon? I'll have to check what voltage they're operating on now. I suspect it may be 6 but I can't remember as it's that long ago that I set them up!!! Rod

Hi Simon. Yes, I have tried that - to no avail! I think the cause is the thickness of the operating wire from the Tortoise: when I built the C&L point kits I used JLTRT tie bars - 2 of them to be precise - and the joints to the blades do not swivel like the pins in the Greenwood kits (and there's only one tie bar). The result was that they were pretty hard to move so I had to strengthen the operating wire. Now that the blades move so much easier, I should really change the wires but I know I would find it physically impossible to do - varifocal glasses looking upwards, shaky hands, having to thread the wire through a hole in the tie bar, etc. I could take the Tortoises off but I'd still have the same problems!! I think the answer is to make the nail heads less obvious!! Rod

Hi all. Having given 476odin's comments some thought and, after seeing some pictures of newly laid track in Llangollen station, I've decided to leave the newly laid track and ballast as it is. Those pictures in Llan show differing shades to the ballast and dust on the concrete sleepers. So now there's little excuse for not doing a video EXCEPT 1) the video on my camera has stopped working for some reason I can't fathom - whether it's repairable or not I don't know but as I now take pictures on my mobile phone most of the time, I'm not sure it would be worth it. I could do the video on my phone EXCEPT 2) I'm getting a new phone on Wednesday with a better camera so I'll wait 'til I've got that up and running. Also I think it would be wiser to finish the fence on the far side of the tracks before I put the signal back in, just to avoid the possibility of it getting damaged again. That will also allow me to film operations with the Stop board in use. I've not been on here for a while as life has got in the way recently so these pics are a reminder of how the tracks look: And I've just seen the blue feed wire in the foreground of the 2nd pic!! Doh!! It's not painted as I can't see it from the normal operating position! However, if I'm going to do a cab view video (plans are afoot) I'd better make sure this and any others aren't so obvious!! It's a bit unfortunate there are some nail heads visible but I need them 1) to hold the point in position when the Tortoise throws the blades as I've found it's strong enough to move them, 2) to hold the flexi track in position and 3) to maintain the level here and there. The set ballast should now do 2) but I'm not convinced it would hold it for 1) and 3). So that's all for now. More soon. Rod

I hadn't heard that. Maybe I should get another set in, in case I need replacements! Rod

As an alternative, why not try Dingham couplings? I use them at the ends of fixed rakes and on individual loco hauled vehicles. I went to these as I was getting very frustrated with trying to couple screw link couplings to locos when close to each other and if other stock was in the way. I find them so effective in operation. If you've just a shelf layout, you won't be turning vehicles or locos (I assume) so these would fit the bill. HTH. Rod

I've glued the remainder of the ballast, so now I'm waiting for the Railmatch Sleeper Grime aerosols I've ordered from Howes. It's not been the best drying weather recently so I've had a heater on in the shed to speed the process up. It has worked! The picture isn't that much different from previous ones, except that the ballast now looks a bit darker!! I think if I do any more ballasting in future, I'll wash the ballast first as this stuff is rather dusty: it leaves the sleepers looking rather pale and it's difficult to get off once the gluing is done. I've pretty much decided that the crossover will be reasonably heavily weathered: maybe not quite as heavily as the track on each side - just to show it's new - but certainly to show the track was relaid some time ago. So, once again, watch this space!! More soon. Rod

The new ballast arrived today so I've laid what needs to be done. Not done the gluing yet - just fancied a rest tonight!! It's on the agenda for tomorrow. Here's what it looks like so far: More soon. Rod

The problem with the 108 turned out to be one of the Kadee couplings being a bit stiff and not moving sideways too easily: I've put a thin film of thin oil on it. Added to that, the screws on the bogies of all the vehicles had worked loose somewhat, allowing the bodies to rock very easily. They are all now tightened up and the vehicles are nice and stable as they ride over the pointwork. Also, the ballast on the new crossover has now dried out and the sleepers are not that dark - as I suspect they would be if they were new even with ballast dust on them. As I've said before, I'll leave a decision until all the ballasting is finished but I'm leaning even more towards fairly hard weathering. Pic below: More soon. Rod

That's a good thought - I'll see what I've got in store (if anything).

In between showers I've managed to get some things done today. First, I was able to get the outside covers off and clean the track - and clear out a few spiders too!! I was really pleased that under the covers everything is nice and dry (well, so far!!) The removable plywood covers that fit on the front are looking a bit worse for their age and will need replacing next year but should, all being well, last the winter (my fingers are tightly crossed!!) I ran a couple of DMUs around - not everything as I've still got stock in the house and I've not brought them back out yet. Here's 3 pics of the 115. First, in the fiddle yard ready to set off to the station: Then stopped at the Stop board outside the station: And finally, safely arrived in platform 2: It was nice to actually get something running at long last!! Now I've some maintenance to do: for some reason, 2 vehicles on the 3-car 108 are tilting over on points which curve in the opposite direction to the big curve on the main lines. I suspect it's the Kadee couplings but it could be the through wiring for sound and lights in the rear power car, the corridor connections catching or the bogies might not be swivelling properly. I'll report back when I have an answer. All for now. Rod

This is now what the driver sees as he(/she?) approaches the Down Inner Home signal. Apologies for the slight blurriness - it was a bit cold in the shed (even with a heater on) and I had difficulty holding the camera still!! So we're now ready for operations. Well, once the weather eases off a bit and I can get the covers off to clean the outside tracks, we are. I've "lost" one train already out there on the dirty track so I don't fancy losing any more yet!! Over the weekend I also added the frogs of the other 3 points in the sidings to the big frog juicer but no pic as it's just red or green LEDs and it was like that before I fitted them anyway. Now there are 5 that change colour when a train goes over them but it happens so fast that I miss it unless I'm looking closely!! The new ballast order has been processed so it is now, I assume, somewhere in the Royal Mail network. I just hope it's a little bit warmer when it does arrive and I start laying the missing ballast. More soon. Rod PS I've got the repaired Down Inner Home signal back from Jon Fitness but I'm not fitting it until I've done all the ballasting and (probable) spraying just in case it gets damaged again!!

That's a very fair point, Simon. Mine don't look dark enough, particularly as the ballast is drying out, partly because the stain I've got isn't really dark enough and, mainly, because the dust from the ballast and some glue is now lying on top of them. So I accept I'd need to stain them again if I leave the ballast unweathered. However, that will require some patience and a steady hand to avoid also staining the ballast. My patience is pretty good, but the steady hand not so much so!!! I am minded, at the moment, to go for a reasonably light weathering but I'll make a definite decision once the ballasting is complete. The discussion has made me look at the new points in the stabling point near the fuelling point. The sleepers there look too pale for new ones so I can see some black weathering being applied there!! More food for thought!! Rod

I've used all the ballast I had - here's a pic of the work I've been able to do: It's still drying out and I've got my fingers crossed that the mixture is strong enough: rather than 50/50 water and PVA I've gone 2 to 1 water to PVA (possibly even 2.5 to 1). Time will tell!! I also found some shiny bits on the rail sides that I missed yesterday so these have been touched up, too. More soon. Rod

Sleepers and rail sides ** now painted. Ballasting to start tomorrow though I've not got much left. I put an order into Geoscenics yesterday (late) so I'll have to wait for that to come: I'll be able to get some done, however. Watch this space. Rod PS ** Only the sides of the rails you can see!!!

The electrics are finished!! I've added the bus bar wires to the 2-pot frog juicer and fitted and wired up the 6-potter. ("Pots" are my own expression as I'm not sure what the correct term is!!). Pics here: I've wired in the 2 hand operated points in the stabling point. The other 3 points will be added to the frog juicer later as they are working OK at the moment, fed from the Tortoise motors. Looking at the pic it's a bit cockeyed but you can't notice that from the normal operating position! Finally, I've bonded the switch blades on both points to the relevant stock rails. Pics here: The pics are really cruel cropped close ups just to show how I've done it. From normal viewing distance they're hard to see, even before ballasting and painting. I've run a couple of DMUs and the Mark 1s hauled by the Class 25 over them and the running is really good. I tried to do a video but the batteries in my camera need recharging!! I did one on my phone but it wasn't good enough to show! So it's now onto painting the sleepers and rail sides, followed by ballasting and spraying with track dirt - not sure yet whether to do that light or heavy: I'll decide at the time!! Light does appeal at the moment, to show the newly laid formation and, as I'm pleased with it and proud of it, I may just very lightly spray with track dirt. That's it for now. More soon. Rod PS Have had a couple of days of aircraft related activities, just to mix things up a bit. Son and grandson took me to the Air Museum at Duxford (the final part of my significant birthday celebrations!) and, after an overnight stay in Thetford, plane spotting at Lakenheath, Mildenhall and Coningsby. 2 long but very enjoyable days - and completely different from railway modelling!! And no, I'm not going to add an airfield to the layout!!

I've made some progress with the electrics. All of the feeds from the bus bars are now fitted - one feed per separate section of rail. Here's a pic of some of them - sorry it's a bit blurred! The wires are a bit obvious at the moment but once painted and surrounded with ballast, they'll be virtually invisible. Honest!! I know some modellers like to solder the feeds to the underside of the rail but for me, it's too much bother. I solder the wires into the web of the rail and, to be honest, I've had trouble finding the feeds that exist already - once, as I say, painted, ballasted and sprayed. I've also moved the 2 pot frog juicer and connected the wires to the frogs: The wires from the bus bars will be fitted in a few days - I can't do anything for the next couple of days. So, things are still moving!! More soon. Rod

The trackwork is complete - and a rake of empty coaching stock has run over the crossover (hand propelled) in all directions with no problems at all. Just nice and smooth!! I've tried a DMU but that dead section rather spoils the effect, so electrics are the next part of the job. Here are some pics of the finished track laying job - electrics, sleeper staining, rail sides and ballasting still to do!! However, once the electrics are done I can start playperating again! And finally, the best bird's eye view I can manage within the confines of the shed: I've refitted the damaged buffer stop in the stabling point and the repaired Down Inner Home signal is due to be delivered this week. However, I'll leave fitting that until I've done the ballasting - don't want to damage it again!! I've got some Stop boards that a friend has printed off for me (thanks again, Keith!!) so I'll fit one of those (plus the phone) once the electrics are done. As I've said before, it'll be quite interesting with all incoming trains having to stop for instructions. So that's it for tonight: I'm still recovering from a fab weekend in London with my daughter, visiting my granddaughter who's at Uni down there. Plus, Uber river taxis to the Emirates cableway and a visit to the Postal Museum, including a trip on Mail Rail (the underground Post Office railway between sorting offices. Fascinating!!) More soon. Watch this space. Rod

Thanks, Barnaby. I've said before that I am really pleased with it - and still am. The ride over the crossover is so much smoother now - a video will follow in the not-too-distant future - before the ballasting, certainly. I'm now turning my thoughts to replacing the station throat pointwork - 2x right hand, 2x left hand points and a single slip. I made them from C&L B6 kits but built each one separately rather than building them all together in situ. The ride over them is a bit rough, but with a 10 mph speed limit nothing is too obvious. At least my trackwork is improving with experience!! You never stop learning, do you? Rod