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nickwood

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Posts posted by nickwood

  1. Thanks MIck, I could only read the word ‘shed’ on the plan so that now makes sense. Is it just going to be for your own enjoyment or might it be your intention to exhibit eventually? I’m hoping you go down the later route.

     

     

  2. Just stumbled on this Mick, you’ve kept it quiet. I now understand why progress on Easton may be suffering from other activities in the workshop.

     

    I like the look of what you are planning and know this subject is one close to your heart so I hesitate to ask a question on the plan.....but I’m going to show my ignorance anyway. The rear of the two sidings at the far end of the loop looks to be quite short, could you not take it off the loop a bit earlier, say on the middle board to give a longer and more interesting lead.

     

    PS if you would like to do it in P4 I know where there are some components going begging :wink_mini:

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  3. 1 hour ago, Tony Teague said:

     

    Mick

     

    You have commented previously on my work rate, and as you may have suspected, I am not really one to do lots of test builds - HOWEVER - there is a down side to that, in so far as when I screw things up it tends to be difficult and / or expensive to correct! :o

     

    So each to his own, and as to whether your posts are interesting, well I suffer from the same insecurities but from my perspective your just generate admiration for the painstaking work that you undertake to get things right!

     

    I wish I had the patience! :banghead:

     

    Tony


    I’d echo that...I’d echo that.....I’d echo that........I’d echo that................I’d echo that.........................

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  4. If you are looking for something to pass away these lockdown days what could be better than watching a number of videos of Pendon's past Friends events and other exclusive content. You just need to subscribe as a Friend of Pendon to enjoy this content on the website.

    https://pendonmuseum.com/friends-of-pendon and you'll also be helping Pendon through these difficult times. 

     

    Here is a Youtube taster from my presentation to Friends about building and exhibiting Much Murkle in November 2018. The full version can be found along with;

    Taking 3D Photographs, Paul Ellis

    An interview with Iain Rice

    Railway Architecture, John Minnis

    James Russell on the artist Eric Ravilious

    Arun Quay with Gordon Gravett

    Denis Pellerin on working women in the stereoscope

    Diesels in the Vale

    1971 BBC interview with Roye England 

    and much more

     

     

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  5. 4 hours ago, Mick Bonwick said:

    I have been looking through books for examples of trackwork that show sufficient detail for ballasting work. I was suprprised to find that there were many showing areas that had been recently repaired with ballast that was much cleaner, so I had to try and replicate that.

     

     

    You.......doing clean......really!!!!!

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  6. 36 minutes ago, Tony Teague said:

    Mick

     

    Whilst appreciating that you are striving for perfection, would it not be prototypical for a few bits of ballast to be found on sleepers?

     

    Tony


    We all know that MIck suffers from CDO which is OCD really but Mick has to have it in alphabetical order :D

     

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  7. 47 minutes ago, Nick Gough said:

     

    I wonder how much storage they have at Pendon? Although I don't think they have every train on the layout at the same time.


    Dartmoor branch has 7 Up trains and 7 down trains stored on the yard behind the scene, plus two separate sidings for the auto train and steam rail motor. The mainline that runs through Dartmoor and the reception area has a separate storage yard with 3 trains in each direction. All of these are rarely changed and usually only when maintenance dictates.

     

    I’m not sure about the Vale scene but it is not at full capacity yet.

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  8. 1 hour ago, Mick Bonwick said:

    Despite sore fingers and thumbs from building card huts, there's more card building to come. Recent observations on the suitability of card for modelling have prompted me to take things a little further than I had originally planned.

     

    I have discovered that X-Acto no longer export to the UK, by trying to find some #2 blades for my favourite knife and failing dismally. I have had to resort to my other knife, that uses #11 blades, and is not as robust. The 2mm greyboard has had to be cut with a Stanley knife!

     

    I have spent today cutting and gluing.

     

    I still have sore fingers and thumbs.


    I am reliably informed that a laser cutter is what you need.

     

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  9. 23 hours ago, Tallpaul69 said:

     

    My take on card buildings is that they are best used in the background  with more detailed items in the foreground. Having said that, sometimes the right item is only available in card and its better to adapt card items than starting butchering resin ones.

     


    What stops any modeller detailing card buildings in the same was as those built in any other medium? Well made, detailed and weathered card buildings, kits or scratch builds can stand comparison with anything made of plastic, resin or any other material you can think of and be just as robust. Madder Valley would still not exist if this were not so and I would challenge anyone to produce buildings to Pendon standards in any other material. 
     

     

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  10. Andover Model Railway Club have announced that David Hyde passed away on Sunday after a lengthy battle with Cancer of the liver. David was a true gentleman and an authority on most things Great Western, particulary goods wagons for which he co-authored the title "A History of GWR Goods Wagons".  He was also a splendid modeller and a great supporter of Pendon Museum, Steam Museum and the Great Western Study Group.

     

    Always willing to help anyone who asked for assistance and share his vast knowledge of the GWR, he will be sadly missed by those who knew him.

     

     

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  11. 20 hours ago, Mick Bonwick said:

     

    I did think that when I first put the bits together as a dry run, but then I referred to the illustration in the kit and on the website.

     

    Well, In all my years as a surveyor, I can't recall ever seeing bargeboards installed like that on any building. Looks like whoever built the kit for the illustration got it wrong then. As designed, does the slate roof overhang enough to extend beyond the bargeboards if they were to be installed in the correct postition?

     

     

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  12. That link doesn't work, do you mean gwr.org.uk ?

     

    GWR.org.uk was last updated in October and has had a number of updates this year.

     

    edit: just typed in the url and realised you did mean greatwestern.org.uk and yes I agree. Sorry don't know the current situation.

     

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  13. Kevin, sensible choices. The photo you've added using a small piece of mdf(?) to help sharpen the corner of the window opening or any other right angled fold is a technique that I also use. 

     

    Mick knows all this stuff of course unless he was asleep in the Pendon Workshops we've done together :D

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  14. 1 minute ago, Mick Bonwick said:

    Thanks, Kevin.

     

    The paper used for the illustrated hut construction was 120gsm, and the printer was a colour laser belonging to the Museum. My home printer is an inkjet and I use 120gsm paper for my own constructions. I have found that undiluted PVA applied with a brush has always served well, and gives a little time to adjust position if necessary. My experience of Roket card glue, good as it is, ia that it doesn't give as much adjusment time as my modelling requires. :rolleyes:

     

    I shall be experimenting with card and paper when I start building. I need to get the colouring right, first.

     

    Take a dozen Scalescenes modellers and you'll get a dozen different glue & paper recommendations.  Those who get good results have usually experimented a bit with both glue and paper and found which works best for them. For instance, many will swear by glue sticks, I've tried many of the popular brands and have come to the conclusion that they are just not for me. Some print on self adhesive label paper, great but you only get one chance to postion it and it's expensive. I would use it for details like arches etc but not for large areas of wall. Personally I'm with Mick in the PVA and brush and good quality 120gsm paper camp, but each to their own.

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  15. Probably teaching you to suck eggs Mick, but others may not be aware that there is a correct way up to have the Ashlar texture print. It is not immediately obvious but there is a shadow line under some stones and these should of course be at the bottom. 
     

    Maybe you could try fiddling with the brightness / contrast settings on your printer to lighten the colour a bit

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