Chris Chewter

Unfortunately not a lot to report since August. However I decided that I needed to get going again. Using EZ line, I've been working steadily on the fencing down the layout. I've also been studying some of the photos, and there appears to be a couple of stone sheds next to the pre-fab access road. After trying a couple of Wills grotty huts for size, I've started painting them up. However studying photos can be a dangerous thing! What I thought was scrub land between the goods shed and the cattle dock, now appears to be a coal storage area. Looks like I'll have to strip that section back. I've also filled over the top of the cattle dock and leaving it to dry before applying textured paint to the surface. The gates are now affixed to the cattle dock. I just need to apply some weeds and a lamp. The railings also need a bit of paint. I just need to rid my fear of trees and wind a few more wire armatures together. I worked out that this is the main reason why the layout has temporarily halted. I've always modelled fairly urban treeless environments. Tetbury however has quite a lot of trees, and I need to get winding that florists wire!

I've just hurriedly checked my Rails Q1, and yes, the cylinders are indeed upside down! For comparison, Hornby's factory got it right for the first release R2355!

Personally I think the computer model is absolutely fantastic. To build such a model as Taffs Wells in 1:76 would take up a significant amount of space, and involve many millions of hours to create, plus cost many millions of pounds to fund. Instead this is something that can be achieved using a mid-ranged PC available to most within the constraints of a more realistic budget. Using Google Earth, I estimate to re-create this model in 1:76 would take up a space of at least 52ft x 120ft. Of course there are items that are incorrect on the video. However if you look at models at your local exhibition, you can see the same thing happening. Wrong locos, wrong stock, wrong buildings. Like when building a real model railway where you can buy your resin buildings and drop them into place, you can easily copy and paste whole structures where appropriate, and use some temporarily whilst you model the correct structure. At least this chap chose Wales where the significant number of repetitive terrace houses can be used to an advantage. The beauty is it costs nothing than the electricity powering the computer and some free time to rectify the faults, rather than hacking apart nearly finished parts of a model in reality, and you don’t have to use the family Dyson to clean up the resultant mess. There is however one very big disadvantage of computer modelling, and that’s the delete button. Suddenly with the incorrect click of a mouse, or with a spot of hardware failure, your empire can disappear into the ether, never to be seen again, or at least only to be resurrected when you find your backup! Computer modelling is excellent for those who dream big. For those who want to recreate Kings Cross or Waterloo in a space no bigger than a ream of A4 paper, then computer modelling is a good way to go whilst waiting for your lottery win! Personally however, I don’t get as much satisfaction from computer modelling that can be achieved from making something in reality, and that’s perhaps 3D computer modelling misses one thing that it can't currently achieve, and that’s tactility.

One of the problems with building a Manning Wardle by kit, is that they are reported to be difficult to get the chassis working correctly. John de Frayssinets website gives several examples where he has either reported that he has outsourced the frame to get it right, or has attempted it himself and ended up with a loco with a wobble. Interestingly, on the page where he describes taking a GraFar 08 and modifying a brass kit to accept it, he concludes by saying that: "The joy valve gear is extremely hard to get working properly. Unless perfect, bottoming out will occur on the eccentric and the assembly will eventually all fall apart" http://www.009.cd2.com/members/how_to/grafar_mw.htm I'm not too sure if this is the same failure that has been encountered on the Heljan models and I'm also aware that the Heljan model has a representation rather than the real thing. I'll leave Steve Lewis or another Heljan owner to comment on that fact. It does illustrate that the L&B Manning Wardles are tricky beasts! My point is that if an experienced model maker finds the chassis difficult, then it shows that the option of buying an expensive brass kit of a Manning Wardle and giving it a bash may not be as preferable than waiting for Heljan to get it right. However the sentiment of getting on with something else whilst waiting does ring true!

Progress always slows at this time of year. Family holidays always slows progress down. In addition, I've had a few moments when I'm overwhelmed by all the jobs that still need doing. Fencing has been steadily making its way down the layout. Laid a bit of static grass to cover the bare bits under the fencing, and stupidly thought I'd check my reference books after. I based the fencing on one of the images in Randolphs book which seems to show a short section of GWR spear headed fencing before the brick wall. Pleased with my achievement, I looked through the B&R video, and to my horror, found this: Erm, thats not GWR spear fencing but concrete posts and a single metal rail! I did think that I would just live with it, but I'm always going to know its wrong, so looks like I'm going to have to do that section again! I also found a few photos on the internet which showed there is a stone wall next to the pre-fab access road.. So a few more sections of Harburn Hamlet walling was purchased and fitted. I've also made a start on the loading dock. This appears to be a bodged up affair on the platform ramp. I just need to mix up a bit of plaster to create the top of the loading dock, and put a black wash over the brickwork to tone everything down.

I'd also recommend the Modelu lamps. I was quite pleased to see a slot allowing them to be placed on lamp irons, although I can imagine constantly changing them over might get quite fiddly!. Personally my preference is to stick on lamps permanently and blame the fireman for getting it wrong! The photo shows the Springside lamp to the left and the Modelu lamp to the right.

I've given the chinchilla dust a go, and I think the road to the prefab looks vastly better! I've applied it on top of a layer of PVA, so we'll see if that gives it enough grab to stick, otherwise it'll have to receive a layer of diluted PVA over. I'm just waiting for the glue to set. Whilst waiting, I remembered that In one of my earlier posts, I mentioned that the Modelu lamps looked a lot finer than the Springsides. In case anyone wanted a comparison, I've lined up two locos to compare Springside and Modelu lamps next to each other. As you can see in the background, I've been laying static grass to patch up any bare bits before I start laying fences to the lower part of the layout. I'll post some photos as things progress, but currently I've had to call things to a halt whilst the glue cures!

Now I've purchased some odd things to do scenic modelling but this one is a little strange. I stood and the checkout hoping no one would ask me about my imaginary chinchilla! However if it's good enough to be suggested in a wild swan book, it's got to be worth a go! Approved by leading chinchilla breeders and railway modellers.

Doesn't post 101 above show a loco on the Wisbech line without skirts?

In between erecting fences on the layout, I've been busy painting up my last batch of Modelu figures. There is something a little strange to see miniature effigies of yourself laid in a tupperware tub! However both 14xx locos are now crewed and fitted with lamps. I normally use Springside but I thought I'd fit Modelu lamps for these two locos. They look good but fitting the lenses is a right pain! I also recently took delivery of some Modelu Pendon figures to dot around the layout, and I've been trying out a few positions. The lady in lilac was always going to end up on the platform, although its likely she will be accompanied by a stationmaster in due course. I have no idea how that grey mark got on the brickwork, but it does show how the Springside lamp is a little crude compared to the Modelu versions. The elderly couple make a great cameo stood together by the cottage. They may end up further out in the garden when I get around to detailing this section of the layout. I think she's telling him that those reeds need a trim! This couple were originally intended to be in the cottage garden. At the moment they are stood by the pre-fab, although their final position may change. However the photograph shows the grass to be a bit hairy for my liking, and the surface of the road just looks wrong. Gah! Its just goes to show that taking photos as you progress is a very useful benchmark to check the quality of your work. According to one of my Wild Swan books, it looks like I need to invest in some chinchilla powder. In case you were wondering, the fence is making its way down the line, however has come to a slight halt due to running out of static grass to fill a few holes. However I think there are plenty of other jobs to get on with whilst waiting for the postman!

In between painting figures to go into my 14xx to serve the layout, the first fence has gone in. Still need to touch up the sprue marks and put on the top wire, and paint the road in its final colour, but it's heading in the right direction.

I always hate it when a layout stagnates slightly. Tetbury is currently giving me a number of different headaches! Firstly the goods yard was giving me a few troubles. The only image of the goods yard came from the B&R video Vol 116 Gloucestershire Byways. As you can see, the goods yard is covered in fairly black cinder. I considered using real ash, however I read reports that this is slightly corrosive, therefore thought better of it. So a sprinkler tub of Woodland Scenics Cinders was upturned, and this was the end result. Other techniques such as using air drying clay didn't come to my attention until after the Woodland Scenics cinders was laid. I did think it didn't look quite right in reality, however I don't think it looks too bad in the photos, which has helped to spur me back on track. The trees have also put me off slightly. After using two reels of florist wire to make half a dozen tree armatures, I probably need to invest in a florist wire factory to finish the layout. However I just need to remind myself that Rome wasn't built in a day, and this is a marathon and not a sprint. Fences are also on the radar. There is a multitude of different fencing used at Tetbury and have been mapped using Randolphs book. This ranges from timber post and wire, timber post and rail, and concrete post and wire. I just need to get myself into gear and paint the posts before fixing into position. However playing trains keeps on getting in the way! Another deviation has come from Modelu. As you can see from the pannier in the goods yard which has been kitted out with a Modelu crew, the figures produced are second to non and look absolutely superb. However everyone who visits the layout asks whether the figures in the locos are actually me, especially as I'm a volunteer fireman! So I thought I'd splurge and get myself scanned! The idea of a miniature version of myself in some of the locomotives on the layout appeals to my level of vanity! Now to get busy with the paint, or should I start with trees... or the fences. Where to concentrate my efforts next is probably the reason why Tetbury has come to a bit of a halt. (I knew it was a mistake to clean the track!)

I couldn't find a working link to the Bachmann video for the Baldwin on this thread, so I thought I'd post the youtube video link below: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uonh9U3GdWY&t=3s I love that valve gear. Its almost hypnotic to watch!

Thanks for the photo link. I had wondered whether the chalk graffiti was fictitious as the collectors club mag didn't appear to go into too much detail about it. However the photo demonstrates that its factually correct, which makes it a nice touch.

In April, I decided to splurge and buy the yellow austerity. An order was duly placed and the tanky arrived. However when I opened it, the front handrail was missing, so I sent it back for a replacement. Hattons dispatched another yellow austerity. I was a little disappointed that the same thing had happened again. It would appear that the packing at the front can knock it off in transit: At least this time, the handrail was in the box. Because it's a minor fix and not too difficult to do, I'll just get on and fix it myself rather than playing parcel ping-pong, but I thought it was worth raising in case the packaging needs to be adjusted.

Started to wind together some tree armatures tonight. I've used the thinnest gauge florists wire from Hobbycraft, available only in black. It's also covered in oil leaving my hands black after making a single tree! This is a 60 strand tree which makes a decent height model. After watching a variety of YouTube tutorials, the plan is to coat the trunk with latex and spray. Foliage is to be supported on rubberised horse hair with flock held on with spray glue or hair spray. Interestingly, Barry Norman suggests painting trunks grey, not brown. I have some smaller 30 strand "saplings" to experiment on. More photos as my tree modeling adventure progresses.

I managed to get an hour today whilst the kids watched something boring on telly, so I decided to see how far a thinned tin of Humbrol 33 would go towards weathering down the ballast. The answer is not as far as I had planned! Looks like I'd better pick up a couple more tins when I next past a model shop! Happy Easter!

Personally I didn't think the weathering on the BR 14xx is too bad, although I'm not too sure about the white staining,,,

With Easter Day upon us tomorrow, I'm aware that when my father visits, he'll ask how I'm getting on with the layout, so I thought I'd better give it a quick test. To my surprise, other that a loose wire on the common return, everything worked great with exception of some dirty track post ballasting. Even the points I forgot to protect worked! I just need to give the track another clean. However it's great to see the wheels turn again!

Tonight on model railway nightmares: Ballast This is the result of a total of 4 hours worth of ballasting, a tub of Woodland Scenics Medium Light Grey Ballast shaker, and I think two bottles of Woodland Scenics Scenic Cement (Basically watered down PVA) I used a sprayer to apply the glue to the ballast. With hindsight perhaps not the best idea as its disturbed the ballast and lifted some of it up over the top of the sleepers, so perhaps a pippett may have worked better. When its dry, I'm going to have to start scraping anything off the top of the sleepers. I also forgot to protect two of the points. So I'm going to have to pick bits of ballast away to get it working smoothly again. What fun! Perhaps some of you may wonder why I've used Woodland Scenics Scenic Cement instead of watering down my own PVA. Basically its because someone else will have measured the consistency instead of myself. Lazy I know, but it saves me a bother! Anyway, it needs to dry overnight. Lets see if its set by the morning!

I haven't posted for a while because i feel that I'm in the middle of some sort of model railway scenic nightmare! Here's why... I've proceeded to pour the water following the technique explained above. As suggested by Barry Norman, the base has been painted in Raw Umber. A light amount of Woodland Scenics Talus was laid, and the Woodland Scenics E-Z water was melted down (Not suggested by Barry Norman, but I wanted to get the depth without using acrylic sheet). This is where things went wrong. During the pour, I ran out about 3/4 of the way through on the right hand side. Probably the most visible part as well. So I had no choice but to melt a second batch and see how bad the transition lines were, and they were bad! So bad, I didn't take a photograph out of sheer embarrassment. So how could I sort this out? I decided to paint over the E-Z water with a dilute green paint to give it a bit of murkyness, and wiped some of it off with some Humbrol thinners. This hid the transition layers around the edge, and gave a bit of variety. Because the paint was matt, it needed a layer of Woodland Scenics Realistic Water over, and it seems to have worked. Phew! That's three packs of E-Z water pellets and nearly a bottle of Realistic Water used. The current problem is that the raised parts of the bank painted in raw umber needs a bit of grass stuck down. Not a major issue but i thought I'd explain why it looks like a five year old has painted along the bottom of the wall (Next time I'll be painting the base plaster in Raw Umber throughout!) However I'm also not happy with the road. It just looks too rough! i need to think about that one. I've used Woodland Scenics Smooth-it, as well as Hydrocal and household filler. Nothing seems to be working at the moment. Time for a think on that bit! I have also decided that knowing the platforms were constructed from brick, I'd reface the Ratio stone platform edges. Simple. However after taking a few photographs, I've noticed that one of the corners is damaged and needs to be adjusted. Another job on the to-do list! Thankfully, when you step back and take a look, its taking shape and looking Tetbury-ish. Lets see what I can get done over Easter.

Batch 3 of the 14xx appear to be now in stock. Just received notification that my pre-order has been processed,

Weirdly I didn't see the Heljan post on my Facebook feed! No excuse for me not reading Paul Uni's post though!

Another email of delay from Hattons. May/June 2017 now!

I've been steadily working away ticking off various bits on Tetbury. The most pressing is to sort out "The Splash." I've been experimenting with different water techniques. After finding that Woodland Scenics Realistic Water only works on flat surfaces, I realised that I need to try a different method. The most suitable would be Woodland Scenic's Deep Water product, but its only available in the USA. Over here we have Woodland Scenics E-Z water. Basically it consists of a load of pellets that you melt via heating in a disposable container (not supplied), and you pour into place. But be careful. Stir too fast and you add bubbles in the mix. Pour as its cooling, and you get bubbles on the surface that are a pain to remove. The best way is to get it as hot as you dare, and pour in a quick and efficient manner. I've followed Barry Normans advice to use Raw Umber as a colour base. I've experimented with adding in some Talus to give it a bit of visual interest, but I think less is more here! The other piece didn't come out so well. This used Dulux Muddy Puddle as a colour base and lots of Talus. I'm reasonably happy with the first piece. With some PVA ripples, I think it will look the part. However I'm open to suggestions before I make the pour!