Sandy Harper

This next series of photos shows the process of inserting the pannels into the side of the coach This photo shows a panel and a window droplight. The droplight, of course, has to be fitted from the rear of the coach side but the process is much the same. Having prepared the panal I next tin the side where the panal is to be attached. The Panal is then held in pace using various spring clips. Once the first bit of solder is applied, check that all is still square and if ok continue with soldering the rest of the sides holding it down flat with a wood offcut. Just a rub with some kitchen towel to remove flux and a light rub with a scouring pad to finish. It will still need washing. Sandy

I was a bit out of my comfort zone with that last build!! I should qualify the above by explaining that is was my prototype knowledge that was lacking and not my building ability! In fact I found it a very pleasant and easy build in the end. It was only my method of pick-up that made it more complicated than it needed to be. Sandy

And now for something completely different!! Here we go again! I was 'gifted' the sides and ends to this. In this photo I have extracted all the lower panels and lain them in their position on the sides. This is part of one side with the panels fitted. Bogie's by courtesy of WayOh A mention in dispatches to anyone who can identify the prototype. You should get this Mark!! Sandy

Stunning Mark. Now that is what I call modeling in minature. Sandy

Measure three times, cut once. Wish I could remember that myself!! Sandy

Hi Mike Yes, I intend to be there, snow permitting! Sandy

Thank you for your kind comments. The kit was originally bought to build a model of the 'preserved' example on the Bluebell. My friend is building a layout of the Bluebell circa 1995. As their S15 is still a 'hulk' it did not fit in with his period!! So he decided to dispose of the kit complete with motor and wheels. At £200 less than the list price he did not get a sale at the Bring & Buy so I agreed to build it and then we would sell it on. If I paint it plain black the purchaser can choose which loco he wants although there are restrictions ie tenders etc. Regards Sandy

Sorry to disappoint Peter but is going to be late BR Black! Sandy

Apart from the motor, coupling hooks, the backhead and some buffer heads, there is nothing left in the box so I must assume that it is finished!! She still needs a good scrub and brush up before heading for the paint shop. Regards Sandy

I think the crankpin throw is about right but well spotted on the front wheel small splasher. The etches may well be on the fret. They will be quite small, but if not, easy enough to make from some scrap etch. Sandy

Some of these so called kits were described as 'an aid to scratch building'. In a lot of cases, usually more of a 'hindrance to Scratch building'! However you are making a good fist of it but that footplate still looks as though it will need the administration of the slitting disc to get the rods to clear. An interesting challenge. I look forward to following the trials and tribulations. Best of luck Sandy

I hadn't appreciated just how big these engines were!! Sandy

All of the main plate work is now complete and I have made a start on the detailing. The boiler comes in two parts plus the smoke box. Once all is complete there is no access to the smoke box or the tapered part of the boiler so if you need to add additional weight you will need to include it before it is all sealed up. There is still a significant area in front of the firebox which is accessible for additional weight if required. The instructions are mainly silent on the cutting out of the firebox below the footplate for the motor so you are left to do the measurements yourself. Not too difficult. There is no easy way to make the firebox/boiler/smoke box detachable for ease of painting but as this one is going to be BR plain black I don't see that as a problem. Sandy PS Please note the ponsy opening cab doors!!!!!!

Thanks Ken, I appreciate your kind comments. The designers method of producing his instructions using written text, diagrams and pictures is something I have not come across before and I must say I am not too keen on this as you usually have to refer to three different places, including the laptop, and prototype photographs. Not very convenient! However, it is going together well. Regards Sandy

First job on the superstructure is the cab. It comes as a single piece etch that needs shaping and bending. The roof was shaped using my set of GW bending bars without the need to revert to annealing, which I don't like doing. Having got the roof to the correct profile, the sides need bending down to match the front. To assist you the designer has included half etched lines on either side of the roof to locate the bend point and make the bending easier. Unfortunately I found that the etched lines were about .5 mill out from the correct location of the bend point on both sides and did not extend right to the edge of the etch. The result was that the brass did not want to fold cleanly over the whole width of the bend and I was left with a gap at the top corners where the roof and side sheets meet the cab front. I had to resort to the clamp to squeeze it all together! Adding the remaining detail was straight forward. Next is the Boiler/firebox and smoke box

In between a case of the dreaded lurgie and the holiday festivities I have managed to crack on a bit more with the S15. I have completed the valve gear and you can see in my last post that it all works!! The footplate was next and the first thing I noticed was that the front fixing holes between the chassis and footplate would not line up. There is scope for movement of the screw fore and aft in the chassis cross member but not sufficient, The discrepancy is about 5mm so I moved the footplate fixing nut rearward about 2.5mm and I will elongate the hole in the chassis spacer about the same amount to make them line up. Everything else has lined up beautifully and the castings have all fitted with very little fettling. The foot pate has been totally built up using the gas torch and '0-gauge On-line Safety Flux' This is the first model I have used it on and I am quite impressed with the lack of cleaning up required. Just a quick swill under the tap and thats it! I have used 60/40 cored solder, 145 deg and 188 deg and they all work well. The next job is going to be the superstructure. Kind regards Sandy

Thank you Peter, are you the only one who read my plea??? Sandy

Happy New Year RMWebers, may it be a good one. As we are starting a brand New Year can I ask that you all make a resolution to 'add the scale you are modeling in' to your forum title or tag? I asked about this last year and it seemed to go well for a while but now the initial enthusiasm seems to have worn off!! It just makes it so much easier to identify new posts that you may be interested in. many thanks Kindest regards Sandy

Ken, Do the external beams move in unison ie are they attached accross the chassis fames or do they operate independantly fom each other? I'm still trying to get my head around the pivoting brakes!!! Sandy PS After studying your photos and explanation again, very carefully this time, I think I have managed to answer the question above and I have nealy got my head around the brake operation. Am I right in thinking that the fit of the compensation beams need to be almost exactly spot on as any unwanted side way movement is likley to cause the brake rigging to bind but, they have not to be so tight as to prevent the beams from having free movement? Would the outside face of the beams benefit from a layer of insulating tape to prevent shorts if the wheel rims are that close?

These finials in 4mm are superb Mark. Can you do them in 7mm as well? I can get them cast in brass quite cheaply. Sandy

Anything looks nice behind it Mark, even a rake of LMS coaches I had running last weekend!!! Yes, I keep an eye on Pete's stuff. Very insperational. Sandy

After a bit of playing around with Movie Maker I think this will work!! Sandy S15.wmv

Cross head attached My attempt to replicate the Marine big end I tried to attach a movie, as Jazz did, of the valve gear in motion but the file turned out at 20MB!! so you got a still instead. I had a problem with it as the drop link (dummy as it would appear above the footplate) was way too long and I had to take about 4mm of the top to make the gear work. Merry Christmas to all my readers Regards Sandy

Despite all the issues, it is looking good! Sandy

Hi Ken I have been following this with interest, and a little amusement, Why on earth go for such a radical design when other tried and tested methods have proved to work? If one of these ever comes my way I would be tempted to plate over the mainframes and cut new slots for Slaters bearings and springs a la your usual method. Sticking with the tender only pickup is certainly a sensible move. Good luck with the rest of the build. Merry Christmas Sandy