Sandy Harper

Thanks Rob. I'll get some. Regards Sandy

Hi Rob Do you use this low odour stuff to thin paint for spraying? Has it the same characteristics as the normal spirit? Thanks Sandy

Strangely some people get on with it OK. Derek Mundy uses it, mixed with water, to solder his signals and I found it OK until I got fed up with the green residue. Copalux is a 'Vaseline' type substance, as opposed to the cream consistency of Power Flow and leaves no residue. Sandy

Thanks Bill. I stopped using Power Flow flux about two years ago when I discovered Copalux which leaves no trace what so ever. I used to get it from Focus but since they went bust I have been stuck for another local supplier. A few weeks ago I found that Wicks do their own flux, and I bought some, only to find it is the same as Powerflow Grrr! Any body want a large tub of the stuff? Regards Sandy

Hi Gaf I got the same model as you but from Maplins. Used hot water and their cleaning fluid. A lot of muck came off but it did not remove all the green from left over Power flow flux. Two brass castings also fell off. I had another go using Fairy Liquid. Not much difference. I did not find a problem emptying the unit as it is so light you can just tip it over so that the fluid runs out the rear, as recommended. I have not tried the degassing yet or OzzyO's Cilit Bang mix. Regards Sandy

John I have sent you a PM Regards Sandy (apologies Ken)

Hi Guys Sorry to Hijack your thread Ken, but when I initially ordered 'black etch' via e-bay the tin arrived with a label marked APW paints www.apwestern.co.uk tel. 01793 614040, who appear to be the supplier. The main label shows that it was produced by a company called Clostermann Coatings tel. 0845 0766 200. and, as OzzyO indicated, it was around £8. It has excellent coverage and showed no propensity to chip or come off. I painted a GWR tender completely in the stuff, masked and sprayed the green, and you could not tell that it was not Halfords Satin Black. Also being only one coat it retained all the small detail nice and sharp. Regards Sandy

I wish I was that organised Ken! I take my hat off to you. Sandy

Ken How do you make time to eat, drink, sleep or even go to the loo?!! Regards Sandy ( goin' to lie down in a darkened room now)

This is starting to turn into an interesting build . Looking forward to the next instalment. Sandy

Kev, You need to be careful with Ronseal varnish as there are several types on the market. I have used the 'Polyurethane version for years and get very consistent results using white spirit to thin it down. Some other versions are 'Quick dry' and 'waterbased'. I have heard of someone using the water based version but I have not tried it. My own brew uses a 'drop' of black enamel paint in the mix. This does two things. It helps you to get the correct constituency, visually, when mixing and imparts a slight toning down of the paint work on the model which gives all my stock a uniform look. I suppose you could call it a 'light' weathering. I generally use gloss paint on my stock and then use the varnish to give it a satin finish. Working on the basis that it is better to tone down gloss than try to gloss up dull paint. I either use Ronseal Satin or a mix of Satin and Gloss to get the required finish. To 'visually' mix paint or varnish with white spirit I use a sort of tapered clear glass tumbler that smelly candles sometimes come in. A bit like an old whisky dram glass. I put a measure of paint or varnish in and then add an equal amount of clean white spirit and mix with the back end of a paint brush. When mixed I drag the end of the back end of the brush up the side of the glass and watch what the paint mix does. If it sticks to the side of the glass to the point that I cannot see through it then it is too thick. If I can't see any paint on the glass, ie it runs back down into the mix, then it is too thin. I then add small amounts of paint or thinner so that just a trace of paint can be seen adhering to the side of the glass. This is usually about right. Adding black paint to the varnish helps me to see the correct consistency. Regards Sandy

Ah! secrets out!!!!!!!

Hi Ken, a handsome beast! I notice that the lubricator pipe cover on the smoke box appears to have a 'kink', for the want of a better description, where it passes over the boiler band between the smoke box and the boiler barrel. Is that part of the casting or have you managed to form it? I am presently building a GWR kit where there is no 'kink' in the casting and to make it fit you either have to file a slot in the cover, thereby destroying the flanged edge of the casting, or removing a small portion of the boiler band. Regards Sandy

Useful info, many thanks Ken. Sandy

HI Ken Know what you mean about the bones!! Just a coupe of questions if I may although you may well have answered them else where in your 23 page thread. Do you use steel wire for your spring, what size and how do you prevent the bearing from turning in the chassis frame? Kind regards Sandy

Richard Can I suggest that you return them to Alan who I am sure will have the necessary jigs to enable the back to back to be altered. He is a very helpful chap and it would be a shame to mess them up. Regards Sandy

Ken/Adrian Ian Rathbone, in his book, recommends using linseed oil to thin enamel paint that is 'less than fresh'. I have not tried this yet as my local 'quality' art supplies shop has closed down. Have either of you tried this? Sandy

Hi Ken I have not used the Bob Moor but can imagine that neat Humbrol may be a little thick for it. I have also found that Precision is a lot thinner than Humbrol but I only tend to use it for the main body colours and spray with it. I have not actually tried lining with it and I don't think I'll bother now! Regards Sandy

Ken Thinning with lighter fluid gives a nice finish with a brush but I would be concerned about thinning paint for use in a bow pen. I have always found that fresh, well stirred, Humbrol gloss enamel gives the best results. If you thin it with thinners, of any type, it has the tendency to spread out on the surface of the paint and you lose the ability to get a fine sharp edge to the paint line. Sandy

Hi Jazz I can confirm that photographs in Peter Tatlows 'Highland Locomotives' show tablet catchers on both sides of the locos. Thanks for the description of the faults. I'll take the plunge and get a set of frets from Redcraft and have a go with castings from Laurie Griffin. Regards Sandy

Hi Jazz As they were used for banking up 'the hill' there was no opportunity to turn round before returning and would need a catcher on both sides. I seem to remember reading this somewhere. Regards Sandy