RichardClayton
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Blog Comments posted by RichardClayton
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On 19/08/2020 at 12:30, EHertsGER said:
Richard, how did you get the tender wheels out? I have looked under mine and am stumped as to how to do so!
Lovely sense of the scale of the 9f without losing that ‘lightness’ they had. Impressed!
best,
Marcus
Marcus — many apologies for taking almost a year to reply. To be honest, I can’t remember anything about the tender wheels and I can’t check because the loco itself is currently sitting on our South Pelaw layout, which is rather a long drive away. -
A new identity. I’m not 100% confident that the large BR emblem on the tender is correct. I’ve not been able to find any photos of the loco before 1960 that show the tender detail. I think it looks quite fetching though ...
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Here she is, earning her keep on South Pelaw this afternoon.
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Some substantial progress to report in the last few weeks. Here goes ...
This model is supposedly DCC ready, but the chosen chip (ZN68 from DCC concepts was a tight squeeze, so I removed the built in socket and soldered the 8 pin connector onto the pickup strips directly. A bit of a pin, and two of the pickups needed to be replaced with phosphor bronze strip as they broke off.
Alls well that ends well, and a working chassis ensued, in fact it runs very nicely indeed.Next job was sandpipes. Inexplicably missing from the Bachmann model. Inspiration struck while my mind was wandering one Sunday morning in our local church, and a couple of assemblies were swiftly put together.
The picture above shows these assemblies, along with a fall plate, tender coupling bar, and brake rodding. The sandpipe assemblies were designed to fit the retainer plate.
They were coloured using a black sharpie (as are the wheel rims and other sundry bits of pipe work). This is a vast improvement over nasty chemicals, ant takes paint very well.
So now we are ready for a good test run around South Pelaw, to be followed by renumbering, coal, crew, and some weathering.
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I usually dread fitting wheels to axles, as it can be a painful process. I must be doing something right though, because the last few locos have run very nicely pretty much first go.
I tap the crankpin holes in Alan Gibson wheels, and then insert the crankpin screws carefully. There is a high-tech bit where I work out exactly how long the axles need to be using a vernier, pencil, and card (see below). I then cut and file the axles to length.
I have found that inserting the first axle part way using a pillar drill keeps it nice and straight.
Quartering is then achieved with a GW models quartering jig and the wheels pressed to a back to back gauge. This is when you find out if you can add up correctly, and if the axles are the correct length ...
With the Ivatt, all was OK, apart from the dreaded clearance behind the cross head. I ended up filing down the bosses on the back of the coupling rods, as well as the securing nut, to give a reasonable degree (about 0.5 mm) of clearance. There is almost no side play on the front axle, so this should be OK.
Apart from the wonky lubricator (sigh), this photo shows that the brake shoes are nicely aligned with EM wheels. It also shows just how far the wheels are from the frames. I did think about adding plasticard frame overlays, but I’m not convinced that it these will even be visible at normal viewing distances.
Most importantly, the EM chassis runs very smoothly on DC, and the new wheels and rods look the part.
Next job will be to replace the wiring and electrical gubbins with a dcc chip, then it will be time for details and paint.
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Here’s a bit of an update, with the new rods — including oil corks! — just placed on the crankpins for now. No dramas with riveting the forked joints as the instructions are very clear and helpful. Both are tight, with no fore and aft slop, but move freely. The oil corks started life as a full length of 0.33 mm hard brass wire, soldered in and snipped off, and are a nice touch.
Fortunately I have remembered to do a left hand and right hand set of rods ...
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The paint shops have now been visited, and here are a couple of photos to show the almost complete wagon with and without a load of billets. The loading chains are next, and then a coat of Testors Dullcote to dull everything down.
So here is a dilemma -- I have retained the original Bachmann number, mainly because I find making up wagon numbers one letter at a time quite dull. Has anyone noticed that the number is incorrect for wagons to this diagram ... ? -
@JRG1 -- I have no idea why I still get wheel wobble with the GW press, apart from my incompetence. Maybe a more wrap-around back to back gauge would help. I'm certainly open to suggestions. I don't use cyano or loctite -- neither seem to work particularly well for me, and the interference fit it pretty firm first time. I have now drilled out the chimney, using a small drill and reamer. The chimney parted company with the body as it is glued on (I guess to allow single/double chimney during manufacture). It was a bit of a disappointing moulding, not round, and and with a feeble capuchon that I have replaced with plastic tubing. It looks OK now but might replace it with a brass one.
@Bob -- Thanks! I appreciate the offer -- I already have some Modelu 3D printed cylinder covers though. it is really a question of whether I want to model 92061 in early 60's or mid-60's guise. I like the idea of modelling something a bit different, and the Tyne Dock 9Fs did seem to lose their cylinder covers on a regular basis, but I would rather model the loco in its prime rather than in its declining year(s)!
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Thanks Martin and Porcy,
I thought the Bachmann injectors looked a bit shrivelled. I have some Comet lost wax castings that I was saving for my Model Loco kit, but maybe I should just use them on 92061 rather than hoarding them :-). The plastic pipework is very fragile, and I have already broken part of it so it probably makes sense to replace evrything -- at least if I replace it with wire it will be round ...
I hadn't realised Lanarkshire models did a slightly better air pump, so very grateful for the heads-up -- I might pick up a pair at Scalefour North on Saturday.
Richard
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Thanks Nick -- I've found that conversions with Alan Gibson components usually go quite well. The EMGS have a library of conversion worksheets for RTR locomotives, and the Alan Gibson website also has a set of excellent data sheets written by Pete Hill that cover some popular prorotypes -- see http://www.alangibsonworkshop.com/Conversion%20Sheets.html.
Richard
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I have just stumbled upon this thread -- Blackgill is a really inspiring model, and the photos are great. I lived on Tyneside for 12 years in the 1980s and 90s, and have been planning a model of South Pelaw on the Tyne Dock - Consett route for a long time. Porgress is slow (isn't it always), and I have been busy building a set of nine Dave Bradwell iron ore hoppers as well as 21T hopper wagons and steel carriers of various sorts.
For those interested in Tyne Dock 9Fs, I've also nearly finished an EM gauge model of 92060 -- a rather painful experience involving a few bits from a Dapol kit, a Comet chassis, a Dave Alexander tender and lots of time and effort. Its been painted since this photo was taken, but the valve gear still needs finishing off along with a few more details. I have a DJH kit for the next one, and after that I will probably use the Bachmann model as a starting point.
Cheers,
Richard
Bachmann 9F 92061 -- Tyne Dock conversion for EM gauge -- complete!
in Gadgie's Blog
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Thanks — I have sent you a pm.