Tex

10 minutes ago, jcarta said:

 I have at least 75,000 colour slide scans of photos taken by us plus thousands of scans of black and white photos.  Then there are many thousands of digital photos as well!

 

Blimey David..... You must be associated with the likes of the British Railway Museum, in all fairness if it wasn't for you and your parents photography we would have missed out big time.

 

Thank you soooooo much for sharing, very much appreciated....

Totally echo this sentiment - yours is the first page I look at and to be honest, it is indispensable for folk like me who live overseas where local access to information, i.e., books, is a challenge.

Thank you Dave

3 hours ago, Taigatrommel said:

German cases are the single aspect of the language I struggle with the most - in this case I had thought it would be Unter der Tassen, but in asking a German friend whether he thought Tassen or Bechern sounded better he said it should be Unter den Tassen.  At that point I remembered the Berlin street Unter den Linden, so with a German's native knowledge and that boulevard in mind, I guess it's correct!  Making sense of it, I guess there's an unamed direct object (the street, the layout) under the indirect object (the Lindens, the cups).

 

There's a narrow shelf at the sofa side of the table upon which the transformer and command station sit.  Using a Fleischmann 6811 I can have two AC outputs off one mains plug, keeping things a bit tidier.  The command station is a venerable Fleischmann Twin Centre, allowing me to have Loconet throttles, in this case a Daisy II.  Rather than having wires looping over the edge of that shelf I have drilled holes in the level the track sits upon.

While there was space for two tracks, I didn't feel that would have the Privatbahn feel I decided to go for.

Prepositions are the hardest to learn in any language and are the places where even those who are more or less fluent in a second language make mistakes. Two-way prepositions in German are mostly associated with either movement (take accusative) or static position (take dative) - so presumably the layout is positioned under the cups.  You did the right thing checking with native German speaker - occasionally things don't follow the rules..........

19 hours ago, Psiborg said:

Hi Tex

 

They are included in MS Models Fuel Point Kit.  More details are on the page 5 of this thread, the posts dated October 28th 2022 onward

 

I hope this helps

Simon

Thank you so much for the information - didn't realize it was a kit. I am building my own version of Buxton and have constructed my own fuel point. Combination of kit bash and scratch built and I was struggling with the ladders/walkways and actual the roofs of the pump buildings. Might see if MS Models would be willing to sell me the components for the ladders/walkways.

On 30/10/2022 at 09:36, Psiborg said:

Fuel point - continued

 

Here are a couple of pictures of the fuel point on the layout

 

 

 

Thanks for looking

Simon

Curious where you got the ladders and walkways from?

6 hours ago, Rich_F said:

 

More inspiration for some layouts...

Where is this? Inspiration for sure.

What a neat project - good luck.

23 minutes ago, russ p said:

 

If it was the 25 that had failed I would have expected the driver of the 47 to be leaning out of the cab window . As he is in control if the 25 is dead , the driver on the 25 would have had working brakes but the driver would only have been able to apply train brake in emergency 

Could be a smudge on the picture, but it looks like there is a faint exhaust plume above the leading end of the 25?

22 hours ago, Market65 said:

Good evening, everyone. This evening, thanks to 6Y99, on Flickr, we go to Broomfleet on the 8th April, 2015. GBRF’s 47, 47847 can be seen giving out a good plume of exhaust as it heads train 4D95, from Hull Coal Terminal to Doncaster Down Decoy gypsum working.

47847 4D95 Broomfleet 1 by 6Y99, on Flickr

 

Best regards,

 

 Rob.

 

What does decoy mean here in the context of railways? What is the purpose of a decoy?

You will ultimately have to program one of the decoders to essentially invert the command to go forward - I have done this but I have forgotten how (not much help, I know).  It's not that difficult per se but I wonder whether this inquiry would get more responses on the DCC threads?

I believe "Newton's 4th law" is just a special case of nature abhorring a vacuum......

Pikestuff?

I have slowly been accumulating Hornby 110's to make the conversion to 104's - I think I will still do it as a learning experience but I am looking forward to getting a couple of sets of this Heljan model.  I have voted for this model for several years in the annual wish list poll.

7 hours ago, Owd Bob said:

Tex! here is 08 611 at Newton Heath depot Manch' in 1981. Unofficially named 'Dewsnap' Hope it helps.

Thanks Owd Bob

2 hours ago, keefer said:

September 1982 R.O. (roughly covering June/July) shows 08611 at Swindon for Intermediate Overhaul and Dual brake modification.

October issue says 'Swindon...29th July 08611(reinstated)'

November issue says 'DB fitted August: 08611' and 'TRANSFERS: August: 08611 Su-LO'

Interestingly, around the same time, there are many 08s losing their vacuum brakes when being fitted thus becoming air-brake only.

PT/Keefer,

Perfect - thanks so much.

Best,

Tex

21 hours ago, Hippel said:

Hi Tex, 

They were not built with train air brakes, the air brake was just a 'straight' air brake in use on the loco only. Train air brakes were fitted to some later. All were built with vacuum train brakes except for 13092-13101 (D3092-3101).

Paul.

Hi Paul,

Thanks for the information, I appreciate it.

Can anyone guide me on how to find out when a specific class member had the air brake modification?  Specifically, I would like to determine when 08611 had the conversion performed.

Thanks in advance,

Tex

13 minutes ago, Pannier Tank said:

 

The Shunter in the upper picture is Vacuum Brake only and the lower picture is Dual Braked (Vacuum and Air) hence the additional cabinet.

Hi David,

I appreciate the response - it was what I suspected, but was not sure. 

Further questions for the collective.  Were some built vacuum only and some dual braked? Or were air brakes added later?

Thanks for the help,

Tex

On ‎27‎/‎06‎/‎2020 at 03:42, Owd Bob said:

 A few from Wigan.

 

 

Apologies if this has been asked before and if it is a stupid question.  Why does the shunter in the lower picture have an extra cabinet below the grill whereas the shunter in the upper picture does not.  I do not have easy access to books focusing on these locos and I have not been able to find an answer on the internet or on this forum - I realize that this could be my search terms.

Thanks for the help,

Tex

19 minutes ago, wagonbasher said:

 

I wonder if our american friend recognises Blu tak, produced by Bostik in Leicester. There will be other brands.

 

I worked for Evostik / Bostik for 23 years.  When the two companies merged clearly Blu tak was Bostiks cash cow.  A collegue in the Bostik marketing team said, "if the public realise it's reusable, we are finished", where does it go?

 

I saw a complaint once.  Someone was objecting to Bostik's claim that blue tak has 1000's of uses.  His view was sticking one thing to another was one use and he was struggling to find anymore.

 

Andy

Andy,

Thanks for thinking of me.  Although I have lived in the US for approaching 30 years, I grew up in the UK (Burton-on-Trent) so I am familiar with most of the UK brands - I still call somethings by the British name and this can sometimes cause confusion.  Since I model BR Blue, I need to get most of my stuff from the UK, the biggest problem is paint due to shipping restrictions.  For some brands, Humbrol for example, there are suppliers either in the US or Canada.

Tex

13 hours ago, MarkNJ said:

Hi Tex,

 

I live in northwestern Canada and have the same issue getting suitable paints. I have been trying Citadel  and The Army Painter brands as the local gamers store carry them.  The Army Painter is excellent paint and adheres to brass very well once cured. I found Citadel not so good for brass. Both ranges have a large selection of colours though the local store only carries a small selection. The Army Painter "Chaotic Red" is a very close match for LMS/BR maroon. 

 

I have heard excellent reports about Vallejo paints but have not had chance to try them myself.

 

All the above should be easily available in the USA.

 

All the best

Mark

 

Thanks for the tips - not heard of either brand before, so I will have to check them out.

4 hours ago, mudmagnet said:

 

Hi Tex

 

Thanks for the comment.

 

The brickwork is quite straightforward. The base colour is dark red brick (Railmatch), which is lightly brushed over the bricks in a random pattern, so that some areas are darker / more coverage than others. When dry, using the same technique, a different shade - Games Workshop 'skrag brown' is applied. When thoroughly dry, the mortar is washed in - watered down Games Workshop 'screaming skull' or 'ushabiti bone', and before dry, wiped off with a finger. This leaves patches on the brick work surfaces. Further drybrushing with similar shades can be added afterwards.

 

The ladders on the fuel tanks are fabricated from soldered brass wire. Very fiddly! I start with a template printed from my CAD to make the ladders and also the handrails. I will be having a look at 3D printing these when I get chance to draw up and trial on my resin 3D printer that I have just bought, but not yet used. I cannot print these on my filament 3D printer.

 

Hope that this helps.

Hi Mudmagnet,

Thanks so much.

I was "afraid" that you had fabricated the ladders from scratch.  I am not sure my patience or skills are up to it - maybe I just have to bite the bullet and try it.

I am based in the US and so it is not always easy to get ahold of some paint types (Phoeni, Railmatch) either locally or by mail.  I have tried a few different reds and oranges for a base brick color and none of them look right.  I wonder if there are any ex pats who frequent this site that have been able to find comparable colors in brands available in the US?

Tex

Some really awesome modelling here.

Two questions

(a) What is the base color you use for the brick color?

(b) I would love to know how you constructed the ladders for the fuel tanks for the Wigan depot - I need to do something similar and I am at a loss of how to start.

Thanks for all the suggestions, you've all been a big help.

23 hours ago, rembrow said:

I've found both Bachmann and Dapol printed insignia the easiest to remove. I use a mild solvent, white spirit. I apply it from a cotton bud, leaving a shallow puddle over the print you want to remove. Don't let the white spirit you've applied travel to other insignia, so I get the loco side I work on, flat on the work surface. After a couple of minutes use a clean bud to remove, the printed material normally wipes off. Wash the white spirit off completely, and don't let it run on to glazing.

I recently used this method to remove BR large double arrows on the nose of a Dutch liveries Class 37. As I did not want to replace the arrows, this method removed the arrows without leaving a gloss surface, so no further work was needed. I've also used this recently to remove TOPS markings on Dapol bogie bolster e models.

Thanks for this suggestion.  I was not able to locate any T-Cut (in the US) at any of the usual suspects so I bought Turtle Wax scratch remover and this served the same purpose.  As indicated is does leave a glossy finish - so the suggestion now is to spray is with matt varnish, fix decals and then weather?

Thanks.

Thanks so much for the information - I will go pick some up this afternoon.

On ‎03‎/‎10‎/‎2019 at 12:53, Tex said:

Thanks so much, appreciate the rapid response.

So, I was able to locate a supplier of said buffers, removed and eventually managed to replace the damaged one.  I have the 40012/97 407 version which I would like to backdate a little to around the 1978-1982 period.  I tried to remove the numbers with Microset, unsuccessfully - I guess they are not decals but rather printed on (?).  Has anyone removed them on their own model and what have you used?  I am still new to this type of thing and I don't have the "knowledge".

Thanks for all your help and Happy New Year,

Tex