Tex

Prepositions are the hardest to learn in any language and are the places where even those who are more or less fluent in a second language make mistakes. Two-way prepositions in German are mostly associated with either movement (take accusative) or static position (take dative) - so presumably the layout is positioned under the cups. You did the right thing checking with native German speaker - occasionally things don't follow the rules..........

Thank you so much for the information - didn't realize it was a kit. I am building my own version of Buxton and have constructed my own fuel point. Combination of kit bash and scratch built and I was struggling with the ladders/walkways and actual the roofs of the pump buildings. Might see if MS Models would be willing to sell me the components for the ladders/walkways.

Curious where you got the ladders and walkways from?

Where is this? Inspiration for sure.

What a neat project - good luck.

Could be a smudge on the picture, but it looks like there is a faint exhaust plume above the leading end of the 25?

What does decoy mean here in the context of railways? What is the purpose of a decoy?

You will ultimately have to program one of the decoders to essentially invert the command to go forward - I have done this but I have forgotten how (not much help, I know). It's not that difficult per se but I wonder whether this inquiry would get more responses on the DCC threads?

I believe "Newton's 4th law" is just a special case of nature abhorring a vacuum......

Pikestuff?

I have slowly been accumulating Hornby 110's to make the conversion to 104's - I think I will still do it as a learning experience but I am looking forward to getting a couple of sets of this Heljan model. I have voted for this model for several years in the annual wish list poll.

Thanks Owd Bob

PT/Keefer, Perfect - thanks so much. Best, Tex

Hi Paul, Thanks for the information, I appreciate it. Can anyone guide me on how to find out when a specific class member had the air brake modification? Specifically, I would like to determine when 08611 had the conversion performed. Thanks in advance, Tex

Hi David, I appreciate the response - it was what I suspected, but was not sure. Further questions for the collective. Were some built vacuum only and some dual braked? Or were air brakes added later? Thanks for the help, Tex

Apologies if this has been asked before and if it is a stupid question. Why does the shunter in the lower picture have an extra cabinet below the grill whereas the shunter in the upper picture does not. I do not have easy access to books focusing on these locos and I have not been able to find an answer on the internet or on this forum - I realize that this could be my search terms. Thanks for the help, Tex

Andy, Thanks for thinking of me. Although I have lived in the US for approaching 30 years, I grew up in the UK (Burton-on-Trent) so I am familiar with most of the UK brands - I still call somethings by the British name and this can sometimes cause confusion. Since I model BR Blue, I need to get most of my stuff from the UK, the biggest problem is paint due to shipping restrictions. For some brands, Humbrol for example, there are suppliers either in the US or Canada. Tex

Thanks for the tips - not heard of either brand before, so I will have to check them out.

Hi Mudmagnet, Thanks so much. I was "afraid" that you had fabricated the ladders from scratch. I am not sure my patience or skills are up to it - maybe I just have to bite the bullet and try it. I am based in the US and so it is not always easy to get ahold of some paint types (Phoeni, Railmatch) either locally or by mail. I have tried a few different reds and oranges for a base brick color and none of them look right. I wonder if there are any ex pats who frequent this site that have been able to find comparable colors in brands available in the US? Tex

Some really awesome modelling here. Two questions (a) What is the base color you use for the brick color? (b) I would love to know how you constructed the ladders for the fuel tanks for the Wigan depot - I need to do something similar and I am at a loss of how to start.

Thanks for all the suggestions, you've all been a big help.

Thanks for this suggestion. I was not able to locate any T-Cut (in the US) at any of the usual suspects so I bought Turtle Wax scratch remover and this served the same purpose. As indicated is does leave a glossy finish - so the suggestion now is to spray is with matt varnish, fix decals and then weather? Thanks.

Thanks so much for the information - I will go pick some up this afternoon.

So, I was able to locate a supplier of said buffers, removed and eventually managed to replace the damaged one. I have the 40012/97 407 version which I would like to backdate a little to around the 1978-1982 period. I tried to remove the numbers with Microset, unsuccessfully - I guess they are not decals but rather printed on (?). Has anyone removed them on their own model and what have you used? I am still new to this type of thing and I don't have the "knowledge". Thanks for all your help and Happy New Year, Tex

Dave, I rarely comment on these pages but I am a daily visitor. I suspect I am not alone in this, but this collection of pictures is amazing and serves as a source of inspiration, confirmation and is a reminder of a misspent youth (and adulthood) when things seemed simpler. I shudder to imagine the hours that it has taken to accumulate this collection not to mention the effort to curate, scan and upload these historical gems. So I want to thank you and the others like you for this service to our community, for someone who cannot easily access books or visit sites to collect information, this type of resource is invaluable. Merry Christmas, TexChem