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JaymzHatstand

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  1. JaymzHatstand
    After digging out my BR blue 35005 Canadian Pacific and looking at various photos online, it became watertight that she ran with an extension to her tender. A few photos of the modifications are visible here...http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/96518-Hornby-merchant-navy-announced-formerly-facebook-leak/page-14&do=findComment&comment=1804977
     
    So far, my progress had entailed trying the air tanks (to use again) and making a start on the extension frame.
     




     
    I've been combing the internet for photos of the top of three tender in this condition, but Bittern found anything yet. Off anymore can point me in the right direction, I'd be most grateful!
     
    Cheers
     
    J
  2. JaymzHatstand
    I decided to go ahead and put the Fox wasp stripe transfers over the yellow mentioned in my previous entry, and it didn't look too bad, so I've fitted the other bits and bobs to the ends (lights etc) and the air pipe extensions (kindly provided by James). I have also done a bit of painting of the interior and fitted an Aiden Campbell driver, the shunter on the front step is also from the same source, and both painted by me (I'm not sure how platform clearences will affect the guy on the step, but that's not an issue on my layout)
     
     
    Enough babble, here are some photos of it on Whitborough Quayside, ready to be packed up for transporting to exhibition this weekend in Goathland. If you're in the area, please drop in and say hi! There are six booked layouts, refreshments, trade and a tombola, all for 80p! Oh, and the NYMR is a short walk through the village away so theres plenty on offer!
     





     
     
    Cheers
     
     
    J
  3. JaymzHatstand
    Whilst looking through my collection of wagons, I discovered my old Hornby 'Red Arrows' box van, which I'd forgotten all about (bonus!) I took a look at it and thought it's make a colourful and unusual addition to the fleet for Whitborough, so I set to work improving it slightly. The modifications went as follows:
     
    1. Remove tension lock couplings and mounting pegs
    2. Fill resulting hole in frame
    3. Remove moulded buffers (mainly because one was damaged) and replace with brass ones, from Parkside Dundas (I think!)
    4. Fit a hanging brake pipe (ABS)
    5. Remove moulded brake pipe stand on body ends, as it is too far from the headstocks to be believable
    6. Remove moulding pip in the centre of the roof
    7. Re-spray roof white (original livery colour)
    8. Fit Sprat & Winkle coupling mounting plate to chassis
    9. Spray underframe and body ends black. The latter to disguise some paint fade.
    10. Add running numbers from an Airfix 'Red Arrows' Hawk decal sheet
     
    Simple and I think, effective update for a rather old 'toy' wagon and the result can be seen below
     


     
    One of my other projects is a classic Airfix Cement Wagon, which has had bearings and pin-point metal wheels fitted, Bachmann sprung buffers and the holes for the side-boards filled so it can run as one of the later liveried bauxite 'Bulk Cement' wagons. I just need to source some transfers for it, and get onto Paul Bartlett's wagon photo website so I can find a nicely weathered example as inspiration!
     

     
    And finally, what port would be complete without some form of fish related traffic (lots of them probably, but not this one!) so this is the next wagon to be tweaked and hopefully made to look too not out of place alongside blue diesels and other 1980s rolling stock!
     

     
    Any comments, questions or suggestions will (usually, unless they are unconstructively rude!) be gratefully received!
     
    J
  4. JaymzHatstand
    Earlier this year I purchased a Gramodels Warflat from the Doncaster show, and I've finally got around to putting it together (after eventually getting the wheels for it) and I must admit, it's a nice easy build and certainly is well detailed. The one piece resin cast deck/solebars needed a soak in some hot water to straighten it out a little (but nothing major and that could've happened with it being stored amongst other bits and bobs for quite a while!) The whitmetal castings for the bufferbeams/jacks and the separeate buffers required very little tidying up with needle files and were a good fit onto the body. The Ratio diamond frame bogies had their axle-boxes drilled out and fitted with brass bearings and spoked Hornby wheels and run nice and freely.
     


     
    Only one of the buffers was a little damaged, but that won't be too noticable once it's painted and marshalled in a train
     

     
    This brings me onto a problem I have. I built a couple of Parkside LNER bogie bolsters (minus the bolsters) as warflats a couple of years back. Many of them were actuallyt converted to such use so it is a sensible starting point. The only problem is the heights of the two wagons is different, I'm not sure if it's the bogies themselves, or the riding heights, or a combinaiton of the two!
     


     
    Can anyone advise where the error may be? I'm considering getting a couple more flats at Donny next February, and hopefully the planned ramp wagon isn't too far away either! I'm also quite tempted to get ane to be built as the later version without the end jacks as that would make an interesting wagon to shunt on Whitborough (without load of course!)
     
    Any advice about the ride hieghts will be gratefully recieved as ever
     
    J
  5. JaymzHatstand
    This week has seen a bit more progress on the Empress Van. I have reshaped one of the ducket pieces to match the profile of the coach end and re-soldered the ducket side piece to it. After a test fit, it is a lot better than it was before, still not 100% accurate, but it will actually go together with minimal re-shaping. I have also fitted the footboards to one side of the underframe and it's now really starting to look like a Manx vehicle with the bogies almost hidden behind them! A start has been made on one of the sides, with the long handrail fitted and two of the droplight windows.
     
    I've taken a few photos to illustrate my progress
     

    Re-shaped ducket
     

    Underframe with footboards fitted
     

    Body side with handrail and droplights fitted
     

    The underframe resting on the now 'hidden' bogies with the ends fitted and the side in the background.
     
    The next step will be to fit the second set of footboards and the remaining handrails, droplights and other detailing parts to the side, and then do the same with the other.
     
    Cheers
     
    J
  6. JaymzHatstand
    Well, I've finally bitten the bullet and begun a journey into 12mm gauge as well as 009 (and 00!) My first foray is a Roxey Mouldings Isle of Man Empress Van. I ordered it a week or so ago and this morning it dropped through my letterbox. I do intend to build a second set of bogies for the vehicle so that I can also run it on my 009 layout (after all, the Ffestiniog have a number of carriages built on ex-IoM underframes, so there is almost a premise!)
     

     
    I've never built a Roxey kit before, so I was looking forward to getting the box opened and have a look at the contents.
     

     
    For what is a NPC vehicle I am most impressed with the amount of etched detail provided on the frets, along with the whitemetal castings for bogie/brake details. There's certainly plenty to keep me quiet for a while!
     
     



     
    I'll document the building on here so anyone else wondering what these kits are like can see one going together (hopefully), and anyone who has experience can point out where I'm going wrong! I do have a few other irons in the fire at the moment so progress might not be overly quick to begin with! Regular readers will not be surprised at this!
     
    Cheers
     
    J
  7. JaymzHatstand
    I have had a bit of a play with creating the teak effect on the First Open using one of the methods suggested on this forum (a quick search proved rather fruitful and interesting!) That of a painted base coat (in this case Tamiya XF-4 Yellow Green) followed by a number of coats of wood stain (Ronseal Antique Pine as recommended by Wordsell forever), depending on the condition of the coach dictates the number of coats. The pictures below demonstrate the appearance of the coach over three coats. See how the colour becomes darker and almost richer, although the camera flash doesn't do it full justice, but I wanted to have a 'control' light setting for these shots to demonstrate the change in colour. It does look a lot better in natural light, and not a garish contrast to the 'teak' solebars as the camera flash shows!
     



     
    I have tried to keep my brush strokes flowing in the same direction as the wood grain (horizontal below waist, vertical above) so that the colour variance along the panels looks prototypical. I wasn't aiming to get a proper 'wood grained' effect, as from normal viewing distances this isn't too discernible, and would probably drive me batty trying to achieve it!
     
    I've also made myself a samples chart with various squares of different shades of paint and woodstain so I can get an idea of how to achieve differing colours for a more varied rake.
     
    I haven't done much more with the interiors, but the seating units are marked and ready to be cut, so once that task is done I should be onto final interior assembly and painting!
     
    Any comments or suggestions are, as ever welcome.
     
    Cheers
     
    J
  8. JaymzHatstand
    A few years ago (around ten I suspect ) I built a few Kirk kits, rather badly! I have decided that I'm going to have a go at renovating them and hopefully end up with something a little better looking and also useful!
     

     
    They are an Open First (crimson & Cream), Brake Third (maroon) and Open Third (maroon) and were all built without interiors (except the internal partitions) with rather tight bogies and other problems (gangways on backwards is one of the major problems ) so they are getting stripped down as far as possible and rebuilt with interiors and a reversion to proper LNER teak finish.
     
    In my yoof I did at least have the foresight to fit whitmetal buffers so it's not all bad I suppose, but that's not much of a silver lining! Work has commenced with the removal of the roof units of each coach which was reasonably damage free (the Open Third suffered a little, but this should be hidden on re-assembly).
     

     
    The Open First has had the body removed from the floor and glazing stripped. Fortunately I'd not glued it very well, so it just snapped out with no residual damage, the same applied to the gangways, which will now be cleaned up and fitted the correct way round!
     

     
    It sides/ends and roof have now been joined with plastic weld, so should be a lot sturdier and ready for some paint stripping! The bogies have been removed and the bearings for the wheels seated a little better into the holes, giving the wheels a little more space so they now roll freely, which should in turn make them more reliable performers.
     

     
    The Brake Third is probably the sturdiest of the three models and the body doesn't seem to want to separate very easily, but I'm sure a day or two in the freezer will solve that!
     

     
    That's it for now, but I'm more than open to suggestions from anyone about what modifications I can make to these to improve them.
     
    Cheers
     
    J
  9. JaymzHatstand
    I've been tinkering with the body of my Double Fairlie (Backwoods 009 kit) and have come up against a bit of a problem regarding the motor and it's mounting.
     
    Fitting it is no problem, but it can only be done once the motor mount assembly is fitted to the body, and needs to be done before the cab and second pair of tanks are fitted. The problem this poses is thus; once the motor is fitted I will be unable to wash the flux off and subsequent building stages, of which there are many as this would involve getting some form of cleaning fluid into the motor and I'm not sure this would do it much good!
     
    Does anyone else have any advice as to how I can get around this problem?
     
    I can't fit the motor to the mount separately and then fit it to the body later as it goes in from underneath, and the spars which form part of the strenghtening for the frames preclude this. Here are some photos which I hope will help describe this further.
     
    The motor in place temporarily. The firebox etchings and details will fit over this to form the cab interior.


     
    Looking between the tanks to the mounting screws, these need to be accessible to fit tho motor, so the rest of the bodywork cannot be built before this is done

     
    The mount before the motor goes in

     
    The spars which preclude the motor being fitted from below

     
    The motor mount

     
    Any advice or help will be gratefully recieved
     
    Cheers
     
    J
  10. JaymzHatstand
    30586 rolled into Whitborough Quayside a couple of weeks ago and psoed for a couple of photos, and prompted me to have my first go at adding various steam effects to hide the prominent NEM pocket, which has yet to be removed befor the coupling loop for Spratt & Winkles is fitted, and a small amount of weathering applied, these locos always seemed to be pretty tidy, but a little touch of working dirt is needed to take off the plastic sheen.
     



     
    I also took the oportunity while at the NEC on Saturday to pick up a Parkside GW Clay Wagon, Diag. 013 and am building it as a BR Liveried example, which according to the instructions should be early grey, but I can't find any photos of any on the interweb in this livery. All I can find are original GW liveried examples or later build bauxite wagons. Does anyone know a good source of images? (I couldn't even find any on Paul Bartlett's site!) Also, would these wagons run with a tarpaulin sheet over them? I know the peaked 'hoods' weren't introduced until later (so my Bachmann ones are not in use at the moment) but don't know about the introduction of the flat covers.
     

     
    If anyone can offer any advice or point me in the right direction, I'd be most grateful
     
    Cheers
     
    J
  11. JaymzHatstand
    For quite some time I've been intending to upgrade my Chivers 'Harlech Castle' to an outside framed version, using the newer Farish 08 chassis. I eventually bought one earlier this year, and it has been sat awaiting attention ever since. The whitemetal body had been originally fitted to an old inside framed chassis, which was a bit dodgy in its running qualities, being rather old, with minimal pickup. A few weeks ago I set about dismantling the body (it was unly superglued, so easy enough to 'snap' to pieces) and cleaned up the joints. I intend to solder it back together. I then made a start on adjusting the chassis plate to fit over the new motor assembly.
     
    I also decided that if it was going to be properly framed, it should also have the jackshaft drive, and I spent many hours at work trying to figure out how I would go about creating such an arrangement, thankfully, RT Models came to the rescue with their own conversion kit! One was ordered and after studying of the parts, instructions, chassis, and instructions again, I finally plucked up the courage today to take tools to the nice new chassis!
     
    The conversion kit is fairly straightforward, and, providing the quartering of the cranks is done, should run well once assembled. The instructions recommend glueing the cranks to the axle, but I chose to solder them, even though they are a very tight fit (a small tap with a hammer need to put the axle through the hole in the crank) for extra security. In order to return the Farish frame mouldings back into place, a new axle hole has had to be made for the jackshaft, but that was fairly simple, as was removing all of the extra details (sand boxes and steps) as they are all just glued in place, so a quick twist with some pliers and its all done!
     
    The chassis has been running around my oval of N Settrack for the last hour to check for binding and it seems fine in both directions, so now I'll have to get on with the boddy work!
     



     
    Any comments or questions are welcome
     
    J
  12. JaymzHatstand
    I've taken the plunge and re-sprayed my Bachmann 08, using Railmatch blue and pre '83 yellow. Once it was dry I sprayed a coat of gloss varnish so the decals should adhere better, but I have a problem: I'm not sure the yellow is right.
     
     

     
    Compared to my other locos, it is a different colour altogether, a lot paler and less orangy, but compared to a photo of the real 08850, it isn't too bad!
     





     
    I know, of course that the reference photos are takein in daylight, and so the glare and lighting will be different. I'm tempted to put the wasp stripe decals on and hope that the brightness is then subdued by being broken up (and satin varnished/weathered), but I don't really want to go through all of that work for it still to look very out of place!
     
    If anyone has any advice or comments, I'd be most grateful
     
    Cheers
     
    J
  13. JaymzHatstand
    I was looking at the Harburn Hobbies website and liked the look of the fisherman's workshed, and thought that something similar could fill the empty space at the back of my layout nicely. A quick bit of measuring and planning and a root through my collection of spare materials and I was away.
     
    The basic shell is made from thick card...

     
    ...with Superquck brick paper covering (including the capping over the doors and windows)...

     
    ...a cereal packet roof and plasticard windowsill (and note the tile lines drawn on the roof)...

     
    ...and following on from Chris Nevard's article in MR 156 about individual tiles on a roof, I thought I'd have a go so it begins...

     
    ...and after only a couple of hours' work is finsihed...

     
    ...and after fitting of Wills Building Pack details (drainpipe, and a small chimney) and a door from plasticard, and one from corrugated plasticard. An evergreen strip windowframe split and the window itself from some clear plastic from a supermarket display tray (it's quite thick and ever so slightly frosted so doesn't look too shiny)

     
    All in all, I'm rather pleased with the result, and am glad that I had a go at the tiles. Also in the last photo are the fisherman figures from the Aiden Campbell range that I picked up at the York show, and have painted in Games Workshop paints.
     
    I'd encourage anyone to have a go at throwing a building togeter, even a simple one like this, and the use of junk mail recommended by Chris Nevard is brilliantly simple and a good use of what would otherwise be waste!
     
    Thanks for reading
     
    J
  14. JaymzHatstand
    After cleaning the weheels and adjusting the pickups, the chassis now runs very nicely (it was pretty much just collecting current from the centre wheels only!)
     
    I have made a start at modifying the lighting arrangements to match the prototype, so the top and middle lights have been removed, as have the associated conduits. I fear that this is going to require a repaint though, the blue I can cope with, but I'm not too keen on doing the wasp stripes! Ah well, we shall see what happens. I'm also considering fitting lighting to the remaining headlights, one red and one white (or a yellow LED as it'll probably be)
     
    The main bit of progress has been in replacing the handrails with wire ones, as can be seen here
     


     
    More updates as thing pregress!
     
    Thanks for looking
     
    J
  15. JaymzHatstand
    After purchasing an Oxford VW Golf Gti at the York show over Easter weekend, I thought that I would modify it a little into one which has been 'improved' by its owner.
     



     
    The first task was to dismantle the car, which was very easy thanks to the two screws, front and rear. Once I was inseide, work could begin. The first modifications were to the chassis. The hubcaps were drilled out to represent alloy wheels, and a small slice of plastic rod for the centre-nut. The moulded exhaust pipe was cut and filed away, and a new one fabricated from a spare missile from an aircraft kit (should go like a rocket!). The centre was drilled out for added effect.
     


     
    The interior mouding was given a splash of colour, and the glazing was given a wash of Tamiya Smoke acrylic on the side windows for a slightly 'tinted' effect.
     

     
    Bodywise, some thin plasticard was used to create an 'air-scoop' on the bonnet and a spoiler on the rear. The bonnet was given a coat of black to give it a more sporty look, and the spoilergiven a coat of red to blend it in a little (but not too much, as the owner isn't too careful with his colour choices!)
     




     
    Just a quick mdoification (under 2 hours) to add a touch of difference to the excellent range of scale motor vehicles available.
     
    Any questions, comments or thoughts, as always are welcomed!
     
    J
  16. JaymzHatstand
    I recently purchased a BR blue Bachmann 08 from a certain on-line auction website for a very reasonable price, and I have now set about detailing and re-numbering it.
     
    Originally it was numbered 08 763, with depot plaques on the body sides (applied by the previous owner) and the cab handrails had also been painted sliver. This wasn't really a problem as I planned to replace the handrails with wire ones anyway. I also intend to add the various pipes and details of my chosen prototype; 08 850.
     
    You may ask why I would pick said loco, as it was a Southern shedded loco under BR and has the extra air pipes mounted high up for EMU stock, but it is one of the 08s based on the North Yorkshire Moors Railway, and I already have a number of photos of it (I knew they'd come in handy one day!) and I have toyed with modelling part of the NYMR several times, and so a loco based on it would be a logical thing to have just in case I ever do!
     
    I made a start on the bodywork yesterday morning, and the following photos show the current status.
     
    Intercity logo, numbers, depot transfers and handrails have been removed, and the lifting eyes on the engine roof compartment have been drilled out.
     





     
    I intend to pick up the various bits and bobs I need at the York show on Sunday (pipes, wpiers, decals and handrail wire) but the biggest problem I have is the raised air pipes as I'm not sure of anyone who manufactures them, if indeed anyone does. I should be able to scratch-build them, but was wondering if anyone knows of a manufacturer of them at all?
     
    To give you a better idea of the loco I'm aiming for, here are a couple of my photos of it at the 2009 diesel gala, sitting at Grosmont shed.
     




     
    I need to remove some of the light fittings and wire runs too, but hopefully I can do that without needing a full repaint (famous last words!)
     
    Again, I'd be most grateful if anyone can point me in the right direction with regards the upper air pipes. The A1 products should suffice for the bufferbeam pipes, windscreen wipers, and hopefully an air horn.
     
    Thanks in advance for any advice, and for reading!
     
    J
  17. JaymzHatstand
    A quick (but rather visual) update on what I've been up to lately stock-wise...
     
    Fisrt of all in 00;
     
    Renumbered my Bachmann 03 to 03089 (a York machine) now awaiting weathering and a sutable runner truck


     
    Parkside Grampus (unfitted) bought at Warley and already painted/decalled and just awaiting a load of ballast and some filth!


     
    Parkside LNER Lowfit, found in my stash and built in an evening session, now awaiting BR paintjob

     
    Parkside Coal Hopper, built and awaiting body painting before the chassis goes on (I have built two of these)


     
    And now to the 009 stock for Scrayingham
     
    GEM Dolgoch, main body soldered together, now just needs couplings and pipework before painting in apple green early Talyllyn livery


     
    Finally a Parkside Hudson bogie in Load-Haul livery, which will be getting a coal load and a bit of weathering

     
    Plenty to keep me busy then, and plenty more that isn't listed here!
     
    J
  18. JaymzHatstand

    Some 60 progress

    By JaymzHatstand,

    I thought I had a topic on either here, or indeed the old site, but it would appear not, so I shall bring you up to speed. I managed to aquire a rather cheap Lima Class 60, from a certain internet auction site, and thanks to a number of members of this forum, and some trade stands at exhibitions, have cobbled together a set of detailling parts. It was originally in Railfreight Grey with LoadHaul markings as 60050 Roseberry Topping, but with EWS vynils over the logos. I had originally intended to keep it in this condition, but have since decided to go for a full repaint into proper LoadHaul livery, but the actual identity, I'm not fully settled on yet!
     
    Progress thus far has centred around the Shawplan detailling set (thanks paulscot) and has involved plenty of cutting and sticking of various bits of whitemetal and etche to the bodysides (grill surrounds) and interior (radiator assembly). The main bodyside grills will be fitted once painted, as will the roof fan assembly.
     
    Here are a few photos of my progress thus far...
     





     
    Next I need to fabricate some steps for the bogies, and fit the sprung buffers, although I might use the cast ones from the shawplan set, decisions, decisions!
     
    I also intend to fit some better wheels and some sort of direcitonal lighting. I know express models do a kit for this but I was wondering how easy it would be to build my own. Can anyone help with that (or at least popint me in the right direction) please. I remember reading an article on it a while back, I think it was in Model Rail, but I'm not sure which issue it was in, but I'll no doubt have it somewhere!
     
    Cheers
     
    J
  19. JaymzHatstand
    I recently bought the GEM kit of Dolgoch, as I just happened to have the Arnold chassis donated to me a year ago and I've been planning to have a go at this little loco, as it's about as close as I think I'll get to a Sandhutton loco, which themselves were well tanks, albeit with outside frames and walshearts valve gear. In 009 that isn't getting scratchbuilt (not by me anyway!). Below are a couple of photos of one of the Sandhutton locos, and Dolgoch so you can see the similarities (and yes, I know they aren't identical!)
     


     
    Anyhow, the GEM kit is very nicely moulded with very little flash and just some faint casting seams to get rid of, and a dry fit of the parts held itself together pretty well! I've been wanting to have a go at whitemetal soldering for some time, and this morning I finally took the plunge and once I got the temperature right on my Weller WHS40, starting low and working upwards, I found a temperature that would melt the Carr's low melt solder and have it flow in the yellow flux, but not wreck the castings. The first couple of joints were not quite hot enough, so they didn't hold, so I cranked up the heat a little and bingo!
     
    Below are a couple of shots of my first steps, and I'm quite pleased with them. I'm looking forward to getting it done and painted now (oh, and I could maybe do with getting my layout working again! (http://www.rmweb.co....scrayingham-009)
     




     
    Of course this is going to end up with me needing a couple of Talyllyn coaches to go with Dolgoch, I already have one, so that's a start!
     
    Any comments, questions or general advice are as always, most welcome!
     
    Thanks for looking!
     
    J
  20. JaymzHatstand
    I've been busying myself painting figures of late to populate my layout. They are, so far, a mix of Slaters and Aiden Campbell figures painted with acrylics from the Tamiya and Games Workshop ranges.
     
    A number of seated passengers have been fitted to my carriages, Aiden Campbell whitemetal ones in Festiniog semi-open 'Tourist Car' No.37 to ad weight, and slaters in the Talyllyn 3 compartment, as it has a whitemetal underframe and enough weight. My two 'teak' coaches already have passengers fitted, and just require finishing (windows and roofs mainly)
     



     
     
    The other figures include three enthusiasts, one with video camera, one with a camera and the other with notebook. They will be positioned around the layout once I have finished my scenic alteraions. The two fighures on the far left of the row are seated diesel drivers, both have been given different high-vis clothing and will be installed in my locos once I have built interiors for them.
     


     
    I'm looking for some figures who I can position leaning out of the windows of a couple of vehicles on my workbench for a bit of variety too.
     
    J
  21. JaymzHatstand
    Having built a set of five Parkside two-ton Festiniog slate waggons, I set about working out how to join them together. I intend to run them in a semi fixed rake, so in a block that can be shunted as one, but can be altered lengthwise in the fiddle yard. Either end will have a standard Bemo-style coupling, the operating end will be a Paul Windle (when I can find them!) and the other end is simply the moulded one from the kit.
     
    For the rest of the couplings, I have fitted the 'buffing/coupling' part from the kit, and attatched a piece of chain to one end of each waggon. The undersides have had a .5mm hole drilled and a hook of handrail wire glued in. The chain simply (!) hooks onto this hook, with the waggon upside down, and when turned over, looks to all intents and purposes that the waggons are coupled together like the real thing.
     




     
    It seems like a good idea at the moment!
     
    J
  22. JaymzHatstand
    Now that the warm weather is approaching, apparently, the modelling 'season' should be coming to an end. Hmmm, not likely! I've been tinkering with details for Scrayingham, my 009 layout, and decied it was about time to weather the buildings a bit.
     
    First up is the water tower.
     
    This is the standard Wills SS34 Stone Based Water Tower kit, built by Bexx, my better half! It has stood, unpainted for around a ear now, so I thought 'why not?'. With my layou being set just North of York, it needs mor of a North Eastern atmosphere, so investigations into colour schemes were launched. The water tower at Goathland was the inspiration, so I needed the nice reddy brown colour that the tank and woodwork are painted. The only reference I could find on't interweb was for Tamiya XF-64 Red Brown, this however was a ong way from the desired colour. Thanks to Paul Gallon (Wordesll forever) I was directed towards Humbrol 70 - Matt Brick Red, which with a dash of Humbrol 19 - Gloss Bright Red, gave a most pleasing hue.
     
    The metal wrok and doors were duly painted, the hose given a coat of Xtracolour Tyre Black (to give it a rubbery hose-like appearance) and the stonework given a wash of Citdel Miniatures Badab Black, with a touch of Orc Flesh Wash under the pipe outlet to represent moss growing in a damp area.
     
    A quick paint job really, but one, I think, which has done wonders for the structure
     
    Before

     
    After


     
    Now I just need to paint the roof, possibly a dark woddy colour, but I haven't quite decided. Any suggestions gratefully considered!
     
    Cheers
     
    J
  23. JaymzHatstand
    It's taking shape, the cylinders have been fitted to their backplates and the lower body valances are progressing. My fingers keep getting a little bit hot, but it hasn't caused me to throw anything across the room in agony yet! There's something very pleasing about the smell of hot metal when creating a locomotive, it's almost like it's a real one! It's not long now until the wheels go on and that's when the real test of my chassis starts. The axles turn in their bearings now, but once the wheels are on it might be another story!
     



     
    J
  24. JaymzHatstand

    Box van update...

    By JaymzHatstand,

    A bit of an update on the waggon today, end ribs, hinges, door handles and brake wheels have been added. Once the glue is dry I can get on with forming the roof, and then painting can begin.
     


     
    Thanks for looking
     
    J
  25. JaymzHatstand
    I've finally got the second set of footboards in place, and it all looks rather smart and ready for a clean and lick of paint...
     

     

     
    This was until i popped the bogies in to see how it looked with them in, and discovered that there is next to no clearance between them and the supports for the footboards, and not a lot of room for adjustment! I can probably loose a bit off the bearing's ends, but that isn't the only conflicting area! I'm really not too sure if I've gone wrong somewhere, or if it is a very tight space and needs a bit of adjustment in there.
     

     
    If anyone has any advice they'd care to throw this way, I'd be most grateful to hear it!
     
    Cheers
     
    J
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