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Tigger

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Posts posted by Tigger

  1. Hi All

    I am researching East Coast Pullman Services in the 1970’s and need some details from the following timetables

    6 May 1974 until 4 May 1975

    5 May 1975 until 2 May 1976

    3 May 1976 until 1 May 1977

    2 May 1977 to 7 May 1978

    The information I need are the times and stops for the Tees Tyne Pullman (Up to 2nd May 76) and the Hull and Yorkshire Pullmans for all dates please

    If anyone has copies could you post a scan/picture of the Pullman Page, normally around page 255 of the ECML timetables

    Thanks Mike

  2. So following up on the Railtec transfers, I've had a go.

     

    Two versions, both have the outer edge of the wheel and the inner painted with frame dirt.

     

    V1 has the brake disk face "as is"

     

    IMG_0505.JPG

     

    V2 has the brake disc polished up (2500 grit):

     

    IMG_0503.JPG

     

    I'm thinking the polished up version is more realistic.

     

     

    The transfers themselves are (in my view) tricky to apply, I've ruined at least 4 now, BUT when you hit on the technique they are fine and they do make the model look waaay better, if that's possible.

    That looks really good. I have done one of mine but as you say a tricky job.

     

    One more little job you can do to improve things is to paint the visible parts of the pickups black so they don't show through the bogie frames (not the bit that touches the wheels though

  3. Very happy with my ScotRail one, which arrived yesterday. One thing I have done, to tweak the livery as such, is to remove a single spot on each corner above the warning panel. Although not perfect, thanks to the spots all being in the wrong place, it's a pleasing compromise that I can now live with. A small amount of T-Cut per dot and a cocktail stick did the trick and has left no visible mark at all. It's easy!

     

    68007_less spots_31922a.jpg

     

    I'm more than happy with the running and nothing else is amiss with it in any way. No wonky nameplates or anything, thankfully! Just need to find a suitable decoder and I'm laughing. I'll work out how to do new wheels for it in due course. Being 2.5mm stub axles, my original plan will need a rethink. At least it has wiper pickups, which means I might be able to use a stepped axle from the EMGS stores if possible. Still needs new etched brake discs too....

    If you are not going for sound use a Lokpilot 4, the halos will work with all the other lighting functions
  4. The lights work fine with a Loksound chip, once the tiny switch three is moved on the circuit board to position 1. For six function decoders, I was trying a Zimo 634D yesterday and all except Halo were working (again once switch three out in right place). It seems a change to CV8 maybe all that is needed to get the Halos working (i.e. No rewiring) but I can't try as don't have a DCC controller set up at home.

    Minehead was fine with a Loksound 4 and I also tried it with a Lokpilot Pilot 4 without issue. Make sure all the switches are as per the instructions.

  5. Fair enough although you can cancel pre-orders with the likes of Hattons, so pre-order and as the time gets closer cancel to release if the cost will be an issue. Such an approach can save money, helping cashflow. Kernow have a different approach where you can "save up" with them to offset the pre-order hit coming at once.

    I couldn't afford the APT-E, am I disappointed? Heck yes. Have I gone morning Rapido should have made more? Not at all. 'Tis just a fact of life that few can afford everything that they want.

    Roy

    If I like a model when it is announced I pre-ordered it and the start putting some money away each month, as the release dates are often drawn out I have plenty put aside when the item is released....cash flow problem solved.
  6. Got mine today...

     

    For some reason, the other 5 functions of the 6 function DCC decoder won't work.

    And also when the train stops it won't restart until I give it a lot of pushing... As it's under warranty I haven't unscrewed anything but I can't see any obvious loose wires... Any ideas?

    Para 4 of the owners guide says that SW3 needs to be in P1. the only way to get to that switch I with the body off

  7. the detailing pack supplied with both my models only contains a nem socket and coupling and a skirt with the recess for the nem socket to move

    Mine was the same meaning if you want a coupling at both ends, as I do with one of mine, there are not enough "skirts"/valances

  8. Mine has arrived and all I can say is what a fantastic model. Yes the name plates are a little off and despite me fitting a Lokpilot 4, a listed decoder in the instructions, I can't get all the functions working correctly (that's probably me). Good job Dapol

    It was me. A case of RTFI and get the switches in the right place and the function mapping correct!

  9. Mine has arrived and all I can say is what a fantastic model. Yes the name plates are a little off and despite me fitting a Lokpilot 4, a listed decoder in the instructions, I can't get all the functions working correctly (that's probably me). Good job Dapol

  10. I am expecting 2 of these, one dc and one with sound. The first one is at the post office waiting for me to collect this evening. For the first time I am dreading picking it up and seeing if it has all these problems. All that money and very little enjoyment......let's hope for the best.

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