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Julia

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Everything posted by Julia

  1. Don't forget the absolutely brilliant search engine optimisation in real life: "Thai food near me" J
  2. I have a couple of H0 scale vehicles that I would like to customise to reflect the names of industries on my layout. The vehicles are variously made by Brekina, Schuko, and Wiking. Is there an easy way to remove existing sign writing? I was going to make my own water slide decals. Which will be simple enough for the panel van. For one of the vehicles it is a pickup type vehicle and the sides are a sort of planking type texture. I'm not sure how this will interact with the water slide decals. Does anyone have any advice for how best to do this? Thanks J
  3. How long does resin keep once opened? Having multiple colours for different uses, do I risk the resin going off before I use it? J
  4. Do any specific colours make painting etc... a lot easier or harder? J
  5. What resin do people recommend for HO scale items printed on an Anycubic Photon Mono 4K? J
  6. Does anyone know where I can find a diagram which shows various loading gauges overlayed on each other, that includes the UK W10 and W12, as well as the UIC GB+ and UIC C gauges? I can find them for all the UIC gauges, but not with the UK loading gauges. Thanks J
  7. I model in H0e with code 55 rail. It was my understanding this wouldn't work with the EMGS jigs. J
  8. My railway related xmas present to myself was a Fast Tracks point filing jig. Because of the erratic nature of PostNL, it only arrived today, but having a play with it. WOW! Why did I not do this sooner? It's a work of art. And so simple to use. Very much not cheap, it's $60, then half as much in postage, then a tenner in import fees. But Wow. Worth it. J
  9. My layout is H0e (so oo9, but with a German accent). I build all my track myself. I use N gauge gauges, and code 55 track. I use pcb sleepers, I can measure them when I next go near the track parts box if you'd like. I use the templates from FREMO. They have an H0e handbook with templates in the back. It's very useful. I am not sure making track is a way to save money, but it is very therapeutic. J
  10. I know that generally speaking livestock was transported in specific wagons designed for the purpose, but I recall finding a couple of pictures of livestock (usually single cow/pig) being transported in open wagons with partitions installed to keep them from moving about too much. Unfortunately as this wasn't what I was looking for at the time, I didn't save the photos for later reference, and of course now I can't find them. Does anyone know how common this sort of thing was? Does anyone have any pictures of such activities? J
  11. Perfect! That gives me the visual I need. To my eye at this scale the bit in the middle looks essentially straight. I would have done this with flex track on the table, but I'm waiting for more track to arrive. I'm never quite sure how much I need to worry about reverse curves. I know that in general they are considered bad, but at the same time, once the curve gets big enough, they stop being an issue. I'm just never sure where that big enough point is. Thanks for this reply, it's just what I needed. J
  12. One option to consider: weaving card. If you cut strips of cereal box (or similar card), say about 20mm wide, then weave them (over, under, over under), you can make a surprisingly sturdy structure. Treat as you would chicken wire, fix it down, and cover with something like papier mache. It's an old school technique, but it works. Another option is to look at the 50mm thick insulation foam, again, cut it with a hot wire if you can, rather than with a saw or knife, but you can basically cut it into blocks, glue them together with PU glue, then carve to shape. Luke Towen on youtube (look for boulder creek railroad), does this to great effect on a lot of his layouts. Someone suggested using a pallet. Pallets are a great source of timber, *BUT* don't use the treated ones, and it's a good idea to go over the wood with a plane. J
  13. I am Working on my H0e modular layout, and have come up a little stuck with the connection between two modules, where due to a small over sight, the two modules I have already started, have their track meeting 50mm out of alignment. The two modules I currently have are both 800mm x 300mm, on the right hand module the track meets the end plate 150mm from the front of the module. On the left hand module the track arrives at the end plate 100mm from the front. I am thinking of making a 3rd module, also 800mm x 300mm, and on the left side I anchor a piece of track at the 100mm mark, then on the right hand side, anchor it at 150mm. In my mind this would produce a smooth flowing slightly S curve from one position to the other, with a reverse curve in the middle. My longest item of rolling stock is 150mm in length. Is that S curve going to bite me on the behind? or will there be enough of a straight with it to not be a problem? J
  14. Well I decided to order a pair of MX617N decoders. The loco that arrived today I want to run back to back with another loco I already own, and I figure that will be easier if both are identical. Also means I then have a CT decode I can use for future projects. Thanks all for the advice. J
  15. That is a very good question. Because my H0e is also pulling some HO stock on roll blocks, and my layout allows me to pull upto 1m long trains. So in that respect the loads can be quite high. I've never put a current meter on my layout tho to measure it. J
  16. It's not on the Zimo website, but some stockists seem to have it for pre order. 8.2 x 5.7 x 2mm 0.5A https://www.n-spoorstore.nl/nl/n-spoor/digitaal/digitale-decoders/digitale-decoders-zimo/zimo-mx615-locdecoder-draad-8-2-x-5-7-x2mm-0-5a I think 0.5A is a bit low for my use case, (H0e), but for one of my railbuses it looks mighty tempting. I really like that they do it in 2mm thickness. If they could now make a 0.8-1A version that is 2mm thick, that would be lovely. The benchmark is the DCX76 at 10.8 x 7.1 x 1.3 mm. J
  17. I am actually based in the EU. Unless my google fu is *REALLY* weak. I can't find them for sale anywhere. J
  18. Wow those are huge (in terms of thickness) compared to the CT Elekctronic. Such a shame they have gone. Zimo looks more favourable. J
  19. Having in the past been really happy with my CT Elektric decoders, I was *exceedingly* miffed to discover they appear to have gone out of business. Having not bought a new loco for a few years, I need a new decoder for my latest acquisition. What are the options for really good, really small 6 pin decoders? Price is secondary to quality. Needs to understand large addresses, do 128 speed steps, and have good low speed performance. What are my options? J
  20. HOe stuff in the last 15 years or so. Alas, not quite enough info on those for the stuff I'm looking for. Thanks tho. J
  21. Does anyone know of a place where I can find a list of all the stock that Liliput used to make, but have discontinued? J
  22. The thing I would be weary about with something like this is the station is small. It's the end of a minor line. It's not some massive inner city terminus. As such the cost is going to be watched greatly. Any chance to cut costs will be taken. Bricks are expensive. Bricks have always been expensive. Laying them is expensive. So anything that can be done to avoid their use, is going to be taken. J
  23. We often forget just how tall things are in the real world cos we only ever see them from the ground. This is most often seen by modellers because we get the frees too short... J
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