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Never say never with the 71 or 76. One piece that we have run is this 1500v, 270 ton behemoth, CSS&SB 803. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d4iRhJ0dW5E It generally runs without problems at 600v, and to my knowledge hasn't overloaded our substation yet. It of course has been fitted with a 600v compressor, but that's the only modification. We already had the infrastructure in place when the 3rd rail only cars came along, so the decision to try and run them was a bit easier. Our thought process generally followed that it would serve visitors to the museum better if the cars were seen in their native environment (IE operating) as opposed to being static. It's quite a time warp to ride a 1896 Elevated car, then immediately transfer to a 1970's equivalent.

Speaking as an active volunteer at one of the American museums mentioned (the Illinois Railway Museum), I can clarify a few points. The overhead wire on the museum railroad is electrified at 600v DC, which was relatively universal across streetcar, rapid transit, and interurban networks (with some variation of course). The wire is mainly arranged to allow trolley pole operation, but some work is in process to also allow pantograph operation. We have both interurban and rapid transit cars which originally ran off of third rail. We're lucky in the regard that all the interurban cars and most older rapid transit cars were built with provision to operate on overhead wire as well as 3rd rail. Safely operating on the railroad is as simple as making sure the bus connections to the 3rd rail shoes are disconnected so as to not allow accidental energizing of the shoes. I've seen kids and adults alike walk up to a car at the station (low level boarding) and start poking at the 3rd rail gear, so it is a real concern. Also on the property is a complete station from the Chicago L system. We've wanted to put in "cosmetic" 3rd rail, but the track department is refusing to until positive injunction is made that the 3rd rail cannot be accidentally energized (again, see above). Below is a picture of one of the interurbans built for 3rd rail as well as overhead, Chicago North Shore and Milwaukee Railroad 749. Note the 3rd rail shoes at near platform level. These cars have a changeover knife switch in the electrical cabinet to choose overhead or 3rd rail. The lead from the knife switch to 3rd rail has been completely removed, allowing the exterior appearance to remain original. Some of the newer rapid transit cars from Chicago that we run were never originally fitted with overhead wire appliances. These installations have been made in a discrete and reversible manner which has stood up well in service on at least 5 pairs of cars. Seen here are CTA 2200 series cars from 1969. Also, to answer on the question of tramway wheel profiles, the answer is not as straightforward as "no, they're the same". The stated fact of some street railways being a different gauge to prevent freight operations is true, but whether they be broad, narrow, or standard gauge, street railway wheels ARE in fact a different profile in the US, generally with a narrower tread and shallower flange. This corresponds with street trackage that has a narrower rail and shallower flangeway to make it harder for pedestrians and bicycle tires (and in a previous life, buggy wheels) to fall in and get stuck. When operating on regular plain track, this is generally not a problem. But at standard railroad switches/points, it is more problematic, as the back to back and flanges of the wheels make it easier to pick the switch and derail. Additionally, the narrow treads make them more susceptible to wide gauge defects. Some street railway systems that were more suburban in nature used a compromise profile which works on both street railways and standard railroad trackage (the Milwaukee Electric Railway and Light Company of Milwaukee, WI, and the Shaker Heights Rapid Transit company in Cleveland, OH being notable examples). We have a decent quantity of cars in our collection that are of street railway profile which can't go too far around the property, especially in yards that aren't perfectly maintained, without supervision (these are what we joke to be "wide gauge detectors"). A number of cars have been re-wheeled, often to one of the compromise profiles, to allow operation on our standard railroad trackage. Finally, a note about voltage. There are a few systems in the US that preferred higher voltages, commonly 1500v DC. We and a few other museums have run cars in the past on 600v which are meant for 1500v. Generally the traction motors don't care; the cars just run a bit more sluggish than normal. Particular care does have to be given though to any air compressors, motor-generators, and motor-alternators which will also run sluggish and may not safely keep up with demand. Those cars we run regularly have been adjusted with new armatures in the compressors to run on 600v. -Zach

Both good suggestions there. I think I've seen the tissue canvas one done somewhere else before, and honestly I think I'm leaning toward that. I'll see what it looks like when construction is done (I think I can gently file a bit out of the crease without puncturing the roof) and go from there. Thanks for the ideas! -Zach

I've poked at the first WEP van off and on this past week. The subject at hand is a Mica B. Assembly has been very straightforward so far, and the Rivet Press has been a godsend. Everything has gone together really well so far with minimal fuss. All the steps in the ends were a nice friction fit, allowing soldering from the back. Only once did I put something in the wrong spot (the label clip as evidences by the big solder splotch on the side of the body). It was relocated correctly (I think) to the solebar next to the numberplate. The roof was probably the more difficult part, as I don't have rolling bars yet. Compared to the Siphon F I did previously, which had a half etch roof that formed nicely in the hand, this is a full thickness sheet flat off the etch. A while struggling with a bottle/dowel and then a vice and rod for the edges got it close enough to push and tack solder into place. It wasn't without issue, as you can see from the photos it did slightly crease each side where the half etched lines start on the roof to help the sharp edge. Overall it's been an enjoyable experience so far. I admit that I quite like these vans, and do hope to eventually accumulate quite a train of them, either on their own or as part of a general perishables train. More soon as I keep poking at it. -Zach

After a brief break through the holidays, a number of items have arrived in the post which allow me to continue on with some modelling. A few WEP vans and a Slaters Clerestory 3rd Brake are now in the queue to build, and I have a new toy to try out: a Midland Railway Centre Rivet Press. That will certainly be a great improvement over the awl I've been previously using. Something else that came were a pair of etched number plates from Narrow Planet for my Dapol 4800 and 5700. They are now fully identified as 4836 and 5741 respectively. Some Modelu lamps, crews, and fire irons will be in their future, and then some weathering. Finally, to follow up on the O2, a DCC sound decoder has been acquired, but I am waiting on a speaker to install that. More soon, probably with the first WEP van. -Zach

To confuse the matter even further (and perhaps even explaining where the theory came from), American Flyer marketed an extensive range of 3/16" scale trains running on O gauge track immediately before WWII. Many of those models' bodies were reused in their S gauge line after the war. Lots of good info on these trains can be found here: https://gilbertogauge.blogspot.com/ -Zach

Hello Tony and all, If I may, I'd like to interrupt the fascinating discussion of A4 tenders to share something I've made, freshly finished today. This is a Connoisseur Models Adams O2 in 7mm scale, finished as W24 'Calbourne' in mid-1930's condition. This is the first engine kit I have built, and I am particularly proud of how it came out. The engine is smooth running, (thanks to the care and attention instilled by the 'Right Track' series), and the lining was all done with a bowpen. It was very much a learning experience, and I do look forward to attacking other kits in the future. Thanks, Zach

Thanks John! After a few weeks of attack with paint, a bowpen, and some decals, the O2 is now for all intents complete. The primer and varnish were aerosol, but the balance was brush painted. There's a few little spots I notice that need touched up, and the crew needs painted yet, but all the major items are complete on the engine itself. More soon, hopefully back to something GWR. -Zach

A few more weeks have passed and the engine is for all intents and purposes complete. Now for the dreaded clean and some paint. -Zach

As someone who lives in the Midwest US, I've successfully received packages from: Connoisseur Models Eileens Emporium Hattons HMRS Scorpio Models Slaters Tower Models All have been reasonable with postage and the items ordered have always come intact (so far). -Zach

A few weeks on, and the frames have been completely painted. Assembling with wheels and motor reveals a very smooth running (if a tad noisy) chassis. Completion of the frames means its back to the body for the final detailing. One item which was suggested to me elsewhere was to prop the cab roof vent open. I set about cutting a hole in the roof and this is what resulted. And here is the engine as it sits now, with steps and the air pump mounting bracket added tonight. In the coming days/week, I'll be winding down the brass work and moving on to the whitemetal parts. I have a set of Markits LSWR buffers for it, and the corner braces on the frame will have to be slightly modified to accommodate them. Sightly annoying that I didn't catch that before I painted the chassis, but I'll deal with it. This is looking more and more like an O2 all the time! More soon, -Zach

This week, the chassis has been worked up to completion. A lot of fiddling has resulted in a very free rolling chassis. The rods aren’t on in this photo, but they’ve also been laminated and fettled so they don’t bind. And last night the chassis was primed. Black tonight. More soon, -Zach

Hi John, That's a neat and tidy van, well done. With Paul's additional endorsement, It seems we can all agree that Jim's kits are second to none! -Zach

Hi Alan, That's a nice looking train of vans, well done. The weathering is particularly effective, is that a dry brush or wash? -Zach

Another week has brought further progress to the O2. The frames have been started with some detail added. I couldn’t also resist placing some castings temporarily while testing the frames to the body. More soon, -Zach

Thanks John. When I first started wandering into this hobby, Connoisseur kept sticking up as a good quality option for the beginner. Nothing in the kits have indicated otherwise yet, they've been great. The Slaters 1F and 62C coaches ought to be interesting too, best of luck on those. Zach

A few months on and the trio of Connoisseur wagons have been weathered. Some dry brushing, a mucky wash, and some powders were used. A load for the Loriot is still being contemplated. Also, as previously threatened, I picked up a Connoisseur Southern O2 when they reopened. A few nights of work this week has taken me up through the initial body construction, as Jim suggests in the instructions. Chassis next. While not Great Western, I was suitably inspired seeing Calbourne on a visit to the IOWSR last summer, and decided I must have one. I had made up my mind a while ago to start building engines with one of Jim’s kits, and this one seemed most appropriate. There have been no issues on the part of the kit so far, only one or two by my own hand. I plan to finish it as Calbourne in 1930’s Maunsell Olive. -Zach

Many thanks for the warm welcome, Tony. I was pleasantly surprised at how well it went overall. There were a few pitfalls along the way, (whitemetal parts vaporize just as easily in 7mm as they do in 4mm!), but it cleaned up very nicely once done. Thanks again, Zach

Hello, Long time reader of "Wright Writes", first time poster here. When I started modelling in 7mm O scale proper a few years ago, this thread, as well as the Right Track films on engine kit building have proved to be of significant inspiration. I started with a number of Parkside plastic wagon kits, and have now started dabbling in brass construction. So, I present here for scrutiny my most ambitious build to date. This is a Scorpio 7mm Siphon F which I have built and painted over the past few months, now mostly complete. Only a few repairs to detail I have clumsily knocked off, varnish, and weathering remain. This has been a great learning experience in Soldering, and I'm turning my eyes toward an engine kit now that this has been completed. Thanks, Zach

The Siphon F is now 99% complete. All that remains is finishing a repair to one step which I clumsily knocked off, then a coat of varnish over everything. The black and white were Testors rattle can enamels, and the brown was a Railmatch acrylic brush painted. It will be weathered in due course, along with a few other wagons and vans which now need it. Overall this has been a very enjoyable build, I learned quite a bit more about brass construction in the process, and really solidified the methods learned building the Connoisseur wagons. It really puts me in mind to attempt an engine of some sort next too. I do quite fancy building one of Jim McGeown's Southern O2s, so that may coincide neatly with Connoisseur reopening in about a month. I have all the existing wagons to weather now, as well as a further Peco Wonderful Wagon GWR 4 plank open to build, so that will keep me occupied for a while. More soon, -Zach

I'll add agreement that getting Parkside wagons flat is not difficult. One annoying item I've found is that sometimes the holes for the bearings in the axleboxes are not all molded in the same spot, so installing them without modification can add some rocking. Like John, I leave the axleboxes free, though some axleboxes on the worst offenders have required shimming glued to the top of the box as doilum suggests. Further exemplifying "Everyone has their preferences", I'll build the body first, then do the underbody, assemble the buffers and couplings, then install those. Buffers and couplings have been spray painted with the rest of the wagon; I only leave wheels separate where possible. Good luck! -Zach

There's a small update this week to things on my desk. First, the Siphon has been finished, cleaned, and primed. There's something satisfying about seeing the thing complete in primer after attacking it with the soldering iron for so long. The Macaw has also gained a full timber load, chained down. The chains and shackles will be blackened. I do also appreciate that the rings on the car can be used to lash down the load. That's all for now, more soon. -Zach

After a little time here and there poking at the brake rigging components over the past few weeks, today I was able to assemble it. I was also able to get the balance of the castings cleaned up, and the buffers installed. I struggled a bit with the shanks and their keeper but got there in the end (the buffers are sort-of springy but not entirely due to my ineptitude). It's looking more and more like a Siphon F all the time! -Zach

Hi John, Scorpio does not have a website, but do trade through phone and email. In the interest of discretion, I've pm'd those details to you. They have a variety of Siphons: C, F, G, and H. So far I can echo recommending them as I've got along okay with my Siphon F so far. -Zach

Hal, I measured tonight, and they are the 9 foot bogies. Scorpio has them on their price list for £20 each. Thanks, Zach