thnksno

Looks good! I'm actually going to try some 'real weathering' on a couple cars now that the sun is coming out... Oh I'll still need powders and paint, but plan on leaving a few cars exposed to outdoor elements a few months to tone them down and pick up natural run-off marks. No research has gone into this experiment, but thinking they'll sun fade better than loading them up with coat after coat of dull coat, which IMO also tones down detail. Thinking of just screwing the plastic bodies to a board via the bolster sockets then leave them out on the south-side of the house. Not the most efficient way to weather but I have a few Athearn BB cars to experiment with, so why not?

lol! I didn't even have to click the youtube link, I know exactly who that is... I put a buck into his contest a few weeks back. I actually went back last night and looked at Al's work with the smooth it, then recalled seeing this thread last week where you used joint compound... Unfortunately Al doesn't show the points covered, actually I think in his vid, he goes all the way up to them and ballasts the rest? Thanks, I'll look over Andy Y's stuff

Good work on the lighting and photos! Wondering if you could show more about the joint compound and the turnouts? Did you use 'setting type' or 'air-dry' joint compound? I'm in rearrange mode and ditching a roundhouse for a narrower/leaner engine shed with concrete... I'm thinking 'setting type' compound would be best as it chemically cures rather than try to airdry a slab thick enough to cover the tops of code 83 rail. The flangeways in regular track seem easy enough but the turnouts kind of scare me as I'd hate to have it frozen into position by the joint compound... Did you protect them somehow or just slop over them and then work with the hardened compound afterward?