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Mattmaz

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  1. Mattmaz

    No Airbrush? No problem!...

    By Mattmaz,

    Well, I do actually own one... but sometimes I just choose to "go with the flow" when it comes to weathering.. especially so with wagons. I have had to be a little more careful with which products/techniques I use in the hobby since having kids, so I very rarely get the airbrush out these days.
     
    The photo below shows the wagons, in this case some Bachmann Seacows, in different stages of weathering. I find it helps if I set up a "production line" when doing this sort of work.
     

     
    The wagons shown here were all weathered without an airbrush, using washes, powders, rust "pastes" (mixed up "in-house") etc. In my opinion, these techniques work quite well on wagons, which are fairly unloved on the cosmetic front anyway.
     
    I'm happy with the outcome, what do you think?
     

  2. Mattmaz
    Hello to those of you out there who have been interested enough to come and read my ramblings
     
    I have been on RMWeb for a while now, and always intended on setting up a blog. This is my first venture into it, so here goes ....
     
    My present model railway features a depot/yard, and the use of a Bachmann 08 shunter is an important part for one of the shunting moves that takes place (weekly tanks to fuel point). I have had no end of trouble with unreliable running of my shunter, which I knew would be the case largely thanks to the 0-6-0 wheelbase and the badly positioned electrical pick-ups.. (One wonders whether Bachmann conceived this particular design feature on a Friday afternoon perhaps?... ).
     
    I have been having a mental battle with myself over the last few months as to the best way of overcoming the issue. I have always been one for accuracy (well, my version of accuracy at any rate), so the solution I found my mind presenting me with was quite upsetting . A Match-Wagon, akin to the type that 08's were seen trundling around with to help make track circuitry "back in the day", which could have electrical pick-ups added and be permanently coupled to the 08 at one end. Great idea! Except.... the period I model is pretty much present day.... with hardly any 08s around let alone a prototypical operation involving a match wagon!
     
    However, the other day I read an article in which several models had been produced by the layout's creator that were a "feel" for the real thing, not necessarily an accurate, rivet-counting rendition of the model. I was sold.
     
    I therefore set about creating my match wagon, which was to be a Bachmann CAR (Well, a version of the CAR, which is in my workshop and I can't be doing with trotting down there to find out the right code now!). My intention was to make a fictional wagon. I dug out the ol' transfer box, had a rummage, and found some antique Fox Transfers "HST Barrier Vehicle" transfers.
     
    The first job was fitting some pick-ups, which I did using 0.45mm brass handrail soldered to a small section of copper-clad circuit board which was glued to the underneath of the wagon. The handrail wire was then bent so that they "sprung" against the back of the wheel flanges. A little crude maybe, but effective as it turns out. At the same time, I removed the main body of the wagon from the chassis and added a rather large lump of steel inside the wagon body to improve weight, the theory being this would force the wheels down for better electrical conductivity., whilst conveniently clearing yet more clutter from my workbench in the process
     
    Next came the creation of the entirely fictional wagon. The model I had was (somewhat ironically) an electrification wagon, with a green base livery with wasp stripes at the ends. Firstly, I blanked out the "Electrification" wording by painting a simple black patch to the sides of the wagons. I then cut some black plasticard, applied the "Barrier Vehicle" transfers less the "HST" initials, and left these to one side to dry properly.
     
    Modern overhead warning flash transfers were then applied in the usual OTT fashion to bring the wagon up to date with HSE legislation . The wagon was reassembled, dummy flashing tail lights and fixed headlights were fitted to the lamp brackets, an old Romford Screw-Link coupling was painted red and left strategically on the wagon, and finally the "Barrier Vehicle" Boards were glued to the sides.
     
    I fed the wires from the pick up board on the wagon through the two predrilled holes on the buffer beam that would be coupled to the shunter, then put the wagon to one side.
     
    Fictional wagon created !
     

     
    The next task was to set about making my BR Blue liveried Bachmann class 08 look a little old and tired. The nearest to any form of prototype for a BR Blue liveried 08 in recent(ish) use was 08706, which I believe was based at Toton. So here came my next compromise; I model the South West, and ordinarily I would only entertain locos/stock which I knew had run atleast at some point in the South West in the given era. This fictional modelling was becoming interesting though, and was certainly giving me some flexibility so I decided this would be my prototype. I was becoming lazy though and to be quite frank I could not be bothered to do a full "as per prototype" representation of 08706. To do so I would have needed to make up another box for the L/H side of the loco, which is located infront of the lower two side grills, and modify the lighting conduit.
     
    I stripped the loco down and dismantled the wheelsets both to allow access for a thorough clean, and for weathering. Clean completed, I painted the underframe, wheelsets etc with a coat of Railmatch "Frame Dirt" from their Acrylic range. Two holes were then drilled in the front bufferbeam of the shunter to accept the wires from the wagon (these were drilled in the position that air pipes would have occupied anyway). The wires were carefully fed through, then soldered onto the pick up wires within the shunter. The shunter was then reassembled.
     
    Attention was then turned to the body. I stripped off the numbers and data panels carefully using cotton wool buds dipped in thinners. The numbers came away quite easily actually on this model, without damaged the paintwork beneath. Numbers/Data panels from the "Modelmasters" range were applied, followed by copious quantities of post-2000 Warning Flashes.
     
    The finish I was after on the model was to make it look like it was dirty, hard worked, with faded pain, etc. I rummaged around my paint draw and found an old, but unopened, tin of Railmatch Enamel "Faded Blue". This was a bonus, as I had already tried my previously successful technique of fading BR Blue with White Weathering powders...and failed...miserably....it looked awful. These were rapidly washed off again needless to say. The first job was to get some grime on the body, so I reached for one of my Vallejo Acrylic washes, and applied this in liberal but workable quantities. Immediately after this was applied, the vast majority of this was removed again with cotton wool buds. This results in the grimy wash being left in all the nooks & crannies with the general surfaces left fairly clean.
     
    Once this was completed, I reached for the "Faded blue". Using cotton wool buds, I applied the "Faded blue" in minute quantities, rubbing it into all raised surfaces that were originally painted blue. The effect this achieves, once dry, is to give the illusion of "bleached by the sun" paintwork.
     
    The loco was then treated to more of the grimy stuff, after the roof had been given a coat of Railmatch "Roof Dirt" Acrylic paint where required. This served to "blend" everything together.
     
    A dummy Buckeye coupling was made up using an old whitemetal one I had kicking around, and this was painted shades of rust and attached to the bufferbeam in the swung back position. The release lever assembly from a Bachmann 66 was added above the coupling, and a coupling & two air pipes completed the bufferbeam. This was then treated to the same grimy wash as previously described.
     
    The shunter was finally looking like a filthy workhorse
     
    Lamps were fitted to the lamp brackets and a spare one was added to the side of the shunter. I think details like this, when placed strategically really do enhance a model.
     
    Attention then turned back to the wagon, which was now looking rather clean compared to the shunter! Firstly, I wanted to add a shunter (as in person not machine!) to the wagon to cater for reverse running. I found a Dapol track worker with a fairly good pose (i.e. arm waving on). I duly decapitated said worker, and brutally slaughtered a Bachmann modern trackside worker in similar fashion.. and then created my Franken-shunter . The poor fellow was then painted accordingly, and added to the wagon. The wagon then got a treatment of the grimy stuff.
     

     
    Handrails were painted white on both the wagon and shunter, then weathered using photographs for reference.
     
    This pretty much completed the models, and I set about giving them a test run..... and whoooop whooooooop! I now have a reliably running shunter that can trundle around the depot and yard at ease
     
    Moral of the story for me? Well, don't get too bound up with the nitty gritty details. I realise this would not do for some, but for me it is an avenue I may explore again in the future. Life's too short, and following a recent health scare I am only too aware of this now, so why sit there putting up with a problem when a solution can be created?
     
    Anyway, enough of my ramblings for one evening , have a look at the pics and see what you think?
     

  3. Mattmaz
    As I eluded to in a recent status update, I appear to have developed a fascination with Barrier Vehicles lately..
     
    A while back there was an article by Mick Bryan in Rail Express Modeller section, detailing a conversion of 2 x Bachmann Mk1 Full Brakes into a pair of Neville Hill based Barrier Vehicles.
     
    I duly ordered a pair of the etchings from Mick, the necessary roof vents (From MJT) and sourced some cheap coaches on Ebay. That was as far as it got at the time as there were more pressing issues on the layout to deal with.
     
    However, recently I have had a bit more time to revisit these coaches, so I've made a start.
     
    The pair I am modelling are 6338 with blanked off corridor connections, and 6348 which retains the corridor connections. More details will follow as and when progress is made, but for now here are a couple of photos of work in progress. 6338 awaits a trip to the spray shop (This will be the first time I have used my airbrush in anger in a very long time! The results could be interesting !! ), and 6348 requires the etchings strengthening from the inside with some Epoxy Resin, followed by a coat of primer later on today. Once they are both at the same stage I will proceed with the livery application to both models.
     

     

     
    Please excuse the quality of the photos - taken on my phone.
     
    I will update this blog as and when (and if ) any progress is made, so if you are interested in this little project feel free to follow !
  4. Mattmaz
    Well, some progress has been made today.
     
    The window blanking plates were superglued in place yesterday. However, there is very little contact surface for the glue to adhere to, so for longevity I opted to apply Araldite Epoxy Resin to the insides.
     
    Once set, a trip to the spray booth was the order of the day for a coat of primer. (As an aside - I can recommend the portable "fold up" spray booth, they are good value for money).
     
    Halfords Grey Plastic Primer was applied evenly, and the parts left to dry. Once dried the model was reassembled, less running gear, to check all parts still fit. They did, so once I have repaired my compressor-air brush connection during the week, I will mask up and apply the blue livery.
     
    For now though, a couple of shots of where we are at - and typical of this part of the country, someone's nicked me wheels !
     

  5. Mattmaz
    In this case it really is the little things!..
     
    Here is one of two Stop boards I have knocked together which are situated on roads around the depot area of my layout. They are based on the real ones made by MC Electronics.
     
    They are a bit fiddly, but easy to make. If anyone wants measurements, then drop me a line.
     
    They can be positioned either raised or lowered. Unfortunately they are non-flashing, but I think they suffice for my requirements.
     
    P.S. I'll give you a fiver if you can make one for N gauge
     

  6. Mattmaz
    Progress has been quite considerable over the past few evenings..
     
    The next stage was to get spraying.
     
    Now, it's been a very long time since I've used my airbrush in anger. I needed to add an in-line filter to the Compressor outlet to prevent moisture in the line, something I had remembered had begun to happen previously with prolonged use. It was a simple fit - a few 1/4" to 1/18" reducers sourced from Ebay and we were good to go. The airbrush I use is only a cheapo one from the Draper range, but the way I see it is I am no expert air brush user, so why do I need an expert airbrush? I might invest in the future but for now it suits me just fine.
     
    I must admit, this is the first time I have used an airbrush to actually apply an entire livery. Historically my use of it has purely been for weathering effects on locos. My preference prior to this has always been to brush paint my models, but part of the reason I chose this project over another one I had on the workbench, was the simplicity of the livery. This way I could play around experimenting with different techniques without too much risk of every going the shape of a pear....
     
    Here follows some handy tips I had long consigned to the memory banks that came flooding back as I was mentally preparing myself for the "event" ...

    Always clean out the airbrush at the soonest available opportunity after spraying.
    Prior to airbrushing, obtain a good few disposable pippets (cheap as chips) and small sample bottles.
    Use the pippets for thinning down the paint, and the bottles for mixing prior to transferring to the airbrush pot.
    Always make a bit more than you need, keep the remainder of the mixes in the small sample bottles until the project is complete. This way you will get an exact match of paint finish should you need to do any touching up along the way.
    When masking for the next colour, always apply a small amount of the masked off colour to the exposed edge of the masking tape. This way any seepage will occur there and then, but will be of the right colour, which when dry fills any minute holes that may have been thus preventing further seepage when the next colour is applied.
    Try wherever possible to spray in batches when modelling models in the same livery, rather than one model at a time. Set up a mini production line so that each model is treated to each colour at the same time. This cuts out a lot of faffing around cleaning the airbrush etc, and you can be assured that the finish will be the same across your fleet.

     
    I used Phoenix paints "FGW Blue (dull)" for the body sides, Railmatch "Rail Black" for bogies/underframe/ends and Railmatch "NSE Grey" for the roof. In each case phoenix paint thinners were used to get the paint to the right consistency for spraying. I mixed at around 60:40 Paint to thinners.
     

     
    Once the sides had been treated to a couple of coats of FGW Blue, they were left to dry out properly overnight. The coach ends were also given a couple of coats of FGW Blue, as the livery partially wraps around the ends.
     
    Meanwhile, the roof on each coach was given a couple of coats of NSE Grey.
     
    The following evening, masking tape was applied to the coach ends for the wrap around part of the livery. FGW blue was then carefully brush applied to the masking tape edge. The coach ends and underframe, along with the bogies, were then given acovering of Rail Black.
     
    Again, the whole lot was then left alone to dry thoroughly before proceeding any further.
     
    Once fully dry, the coaches were reassembled, and an inspection of the paint finish was carried out... success !
     

     
    Coach 6338 was then dismantled again, and a Flashing Tail Light was added to one end. This is just a red LED (With long stem) complete with 1k Ohm Resistor (Which I might have to reduce having tested as the light works, but is dimmer than I would like) wired up using an old DCC Decoder that was good for Function use only these days, and a drilled out "Replica Railways" Tail lamp (Plastic rather than the Springside Whitemetal versions). The decoder was then programmed so that output B would give a strobe effect. (Old Lenz decoder so CV51 set to 1, CV57 set to 64 to achieve this).
     
    Both coaches were then put back together completely and transfers were added, followed by handrails fashioned from 0.45mm Brass wire, and finally the cantrail stripes were applied using a Bob Moore Lining pen. (Again, it is imperative that this tool be kept clean when not in use).
     
    The nearly finished result can be seen below :
     

     
    All that remains now is a coat of Satin varnish (I hate Gloss finishes with a passion ) along with some light weathering. Watch this space !
  7. Mattmaz

    On track plant photos

    By Mattmaz,

    I saw these road rail cherry pickers today near my house and thought they would make so interesting scene on a layout featuring OHLE.
    I've got photos of more road rail vehicles which I will upload in the near future too.
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