Atso

Hi Ross, if it is any help, I suffer from nerve damage to my left hand (I'm left handed) from my days as a competitive figure skater and suffer from intermittent trembling as a result. I've gotten around this by always ensuring that my wrist is supported so that any trembles are reduced to an acceptable level. My eyesight isn't great either and I make good use of optical aids for lining, etc. Bow/ruling pens are a very useful tool to have but they need to be correctly profiled and have some rules governing their successful use. Rather than try to explain here, I'll direct you to Mike Trice's excellent videos which cover the use (and profiling) of a bow pen. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCn1tp9oWk2g_gRlbsWGpNxQ I'd also highly recommend Ian Rathbone's book on painting and lining. Just remember what I always tell myself: I might try and fail, but I'll learn far more for next time than if I'd failed to try.

Tony, you've uncovered the reason why I said the tender will be loosely representative! I initially didn't think about the fact that the original tenders had radiused ends until after I'd repainted it. Considering I mixed the acrylic paint myself to closely match Precision's interpretation of silver grey and the difficulty in reinstating the detail that would be lost, I think this will remain what it is, a quick and dirty repaint of a Garter Blue loco. I'll reserve the right to knock up a 3D printed tender if/when funds allow the purchase of the Isinglass drawings (Dapol didn't cater for this tender variant and, given the size of the N Gauge market, I'm surprised they offered what they did). Very much a 'layout loco' that will be seen for a maximum of 15 seconds on the scenic side of the layout - not one for the purists but stops this repaint being too much of a distraction from the C1s. Interesting to read/see that the later nameplates for '14 and '15 had rounded corners, something else that I was not previously aware of. Many thanks for sharing. Edit: I should have also mentioned that I should have removed the access doors/covers from the smokebox end to correctly represent the loco(s) in initial service condition.

Good morning Tony, Many thanks for the feedback, I hadn't noticed the boiler handrail difference and will make a decision on whether I can live with this or model Quicksilver or Silver King instead. The tender is a corridor type but it is currently missing its corridor connector and tank top moulding for the purpose of ease of painting; the only real modification to the tender was to sand off the beading to loosely represent the tender that the silver A4s were initially paired with.

He's a professional Manna, so he has a big vat of primer that he simply dips the locos into. None of the brush or roller nonsense!

Hello Tony, I hope that you and all the forum members are well. I was a lucky chap the other day in being presented with a Dapol Garter Blue A4 'Sea Eagle' for my birthday. The loco was a 'NQP' returned item that had additional discounts added which made it too good to pass up. However my collection of RTR A4s already includes 'Sea Eagle' so a new identity was required. Therefore I've been distracted from the C1s for the last 24hours. Below is how the loco arrived and the current state of play. The A4 will likely become Silver Link; accepting that the tender isn't quite right.

It seems that I've been a bit remiss with updating this thread - things have slowly been happening. The C1s have progressed from basic painting to an advanced stage of lining out using bow pens and brush work. Some tidying up required on the mudhole door lining below. This was done using a brush moistened with white spirit (almost dry really) to remove the excess paint and smooth out what was left. Then the black lining was applied using a fine brush and cleaned up as above. This was then repeated for the other side bringing things to today's job of adding all the red lining to the locos and tender frames. One down, three to go!

No problem Ross. I suppose that you'll be shocked to learn that N gauge handrail knobs are overscale! The 2mm Association offer etched handrail knobs but I've never gotten on with them. A tip for handling the handrail knobs is to lay a piece of masking tape sticky side up and secure it with a couple more pieces. Then place the handrail knobs into the sticky surface and thread the wire into the hole, tilt slightly and push the handrail knob along and repeat. Then glue/solder the knobs onto the model and remove the wire once set. Then cut a piece of wire to length and thread back through the handrail knobs.

Hello Tony, I've really been enjoying viewing the before and after photographs of Little Bytham's construction. I'd like to offer a take on the subject of variations, using my N gauge Atlantics. These are 4436 (left) and 3286 (right) in the process of being lined out using my bow pens and fine brushes. While they are both of the C1 class, there are differences between the two locos. Most of these are visible but the smokebox saddle (denoting piston valves) under 4436 is not in this photograph. The tenders have not be neglected (sorry about the poor focus). Finally my (almost finished) model of 4452 (shown several times previously) which shows yet further detail variations within the class.

The only thing I can think of to suggest is to maybe experiment with a mirror or two to get even closer to ground perspective. I appreciate that this would probably cause new problems in taking photographs of models.

Not possible Tony. Little Bytham is an exceptional layout, please keep the photos coming; it provides me with endless inspiration.

Lovely work Jamie and nice work on the lining!

Your C1 is looking great Tom! My own two aren't as advanced as yours but they are slowly getting there. Like you, my camera is playing games with the green. Also annoyingly, the gloss finish does show up the ever so slight print lines on the splashers. Experience suggests that these will be all but invisible once the locos are finished and matted down.

Are you sure about your sums here Ross? Depending on whether you use continental or British TT gauge the 'D' would be between 5.35m and 6.32m. I think that 1/1000 scale would be a good size with the 'D' coming out at 64.25cm in length and fitting in nicely with the Polar Lights' 1/1000 scale series of TOS and TOS movie ships. Speaking of 1/1000 scale TOS ships, I've been playing around with suggesting panelling and relief on the smooth saucer of my Enterprise while trying not to overdo things. All airbrushing effects with the lines radiating out from the center being shaded using Tamiya German Grey before applying a light(ish) coat of Tamiya Royal Grey. The circles were done using paper masks and more Royal Grey with a couple of drops of German Grey being added to the mix. To my eye, this is much more pleasing than one solid colour, although I understand that others might disagree. This is my first attempt at this kind of effect and I'm reasonably happy with how it has turned out.

Hi Ross, My criteria is usually based on the durability of the component and whether it's integration into the print hinder painting and lining. I like to have separate handrails on my locomotives (rolling stock is another matter) and these are best done using brass handrail knobs and wire. To print them would require supports and I think that keeping the handrails intact would prove impossible for any length of time; the same thing with lamp irons. Buffers are another component where a brass turning is far superior to a print. You can get a thinner section to the buffer head in brass while still retaining far more strength than a thicker print. As the buffer beams of these locos need to be lined out, it makes things far easier for the bow pen (or decals) if the buffers are painted separately and added last. As an additional benefit, you can remove and replace the buffers should they ever get damaged - I speak from experience having ruined an early printed body that suffered damage to its printed buffers and changed my approach following this. Hope this helps.

For my first C1, I went with the technique Tim used for the boiler bands on his P2. I sprayed the out colour onto a sheet of clear deca sheet and then, once dry, used a bow pen to rule the center black line. Once that had dried, I used a new no. 10 (the curved one) scalpel blade and a ruler to carefully cut just outside of the black lines. It took a few attempts to get enough acceptable decals but I found this easier than trying to rule all three lines consistently directly onto the model. The corners still needed to be painted in with a fine brush though - not something you'll need to do on your coach. Below is the result of using that technique.

So a bit of time where not much has happened. However that's now changed with some more progress being made on no.s 3286 and 4436.

Not to worry Dave, I like it when threads wander a bit! However, you and Jonathan must stop trying to undercut me when I'm trying to sell dodgy certificates! Ross, the Enterprise D CAD looks incredible! That is not an easy subject to render... Please do finish and print it!

Not as much progress has been made at my end as I would have liked. However this has now started to change with both 3286 (back) and 4436 (front) having gained handrails and the driving wheels have now been painted green. The tenders, which are not pictured, have had a little filler applied to cover one or two minor blemishes and I hope to get them to the same stage as the locos by tomorrow.

Hi Chris, I generally use Daler Rowney Aquafine Flat Sables as they seem to be a good compromise between quality and price. I picked mine up in Hobbycraft, although the online store doesn't seem to have them at the moment. A quick google search however turned up this link. https://www.google.com/shopping/product/5913249040509805901?q=Daler+Rowney+Aquafine+Brushes+flat+Sable&rlz=1C1AFAB_enGB488GB488&sxsrf=ALeKk03qzwDWFfsqUHVAB_yBaNv8m8h-cw:1590008768456&biw=1536&bih=760&prds=opd:3609527279140725970 Rather than dry brushing, maybe you could consider a light enamel wash instead. Once it is touch dry it can be reactivated with white spirit to create some interesting effects. I would also highly recommend 'The Art of Weathering' by Martyn Welch, it covers several techniques and is a well thumbed reference in my collection. Here is one of my loco efforts using Martyn's techniques (apologies about the carrier film being visible on the number).

If you send a suitable fee to the awarding body (me!), I'm sure that something can be created and sent...

Stunning work Jamie. Are you going to line it as well?

Thanks Grahame. I think it is fairer to say that I have a reasonable stud of half finished projects - I must become more focussed!

Thanks Dave. Not to worry about the drawings, I've still got a load to send your way when I have access to a scanner again.

Sorry guys, I've been distracted today by this... A Polar Lights 1:1000 scale TOS Enterprise. I purchased this kit at least 11 years ago and never finished it. So far it has swallowed up an awful lot of filler and had a couple of missing parts which I've had to fabricate replacements for. Despite being labelled a 'easy, snap together kit', it really has been a bit of a sod to get a decent surface finish on. Hopefully, I'm just about there now and might just get a final top coat on it in the next few days. Well done to Richard and Jamie for correctly identifying all the differences between the two C1s. I believe that Jamie and Mr Wealleans are correct that the saddle represents the locos fitted with piston valves, while the ones without were fitted with balanced slide valves. Neither of these locos have the brass oil boxes on the splashers either. I think that there were three locations for the builders plates; on the front splasher, on the front of the frames and further back on the frames, just behind the lubricators. Quite a lot of variation within the class crying out to be modelled.

I've been remiss in not updating this thread recently. So what has been going on? First up is another N2. One of the many prints of this body that I did when I was testing my Photon printer. It isn't correct for any of the N2s I want to model, but it does serve to see just how much material needs to be removed from a Farish 4F chassis to get it sitting low enough. It's almost but not quite there yet. The tanks largely hide the incorrect wheelbase so I won't be trying this method with the N1. Another K3 This one will be No. 91 which has a modified NER style cab, right hand drive and an ex-GNR tender (borrowed from another project). I've fitted the handrails ready for painting but the buffers, lamp irons and other bits will be fitted once I've finished lining out. Again, a little more work is required to get the loco sitting on the chassis properly (butchered Farish B1 this time). I've revived my long overdue Sir Sam Fay. Again, handrails fitted and ready for painting. A mixing of parts! This is a Dapol B1 chassis, fitted with new bearings to allow Farish Fairburn tank engine wheels to be fitted. The tender is the borrowed one shown earlier. I hope that this will end up as a K2. It is currently awaiting testing, but it does roll freely with the worm disengaged. Finally, following my success in finally getting my Atlantic working properly, I've started the next two! These will be 3286 (front) and 4436, both of which were regular performers out of King's Cross. While this are still in their raw resin state, I hope that the detail differences between these locos can be seen. I'll get the Atlantics to the same stage as the K3 and Sam Fay bodies before breaking out the airbrush.