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D869

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Blog Comments posted by D869

  1. Perhaps a scratchbuilt chassis is going to be the answer. You could look to see if any of the US N diesels have a suitable chassis but would still have to convert it. In the 'to fix later' box I suppose I have quite a few things in mine.

    Don

    I'm thinking that some sort of repair is probably the way to go but it'll need to fix the meshing issue as well as making some sort of splint for the broken chassis half. I did consult my Kalmbach book of US diesel drawings (purchased a long time ago in the US for exactly this sort of question) but as far as I can see there is nothing stateside with such a long wheelbase 4 wheel bogie (truck) and the Hymek wheels are pretty huge too.

     

     

    I recently had a Hymek on the workbench to try and fix it and encountered exactly the same issues. Removing the circuit board caused the chassis to fall apart. and after looking at it I concluded it was down to poor design and casting. The dummy loco route was tried, but proved an expensive dead end as the chassis in these is plastic and doesn't have all the gears either.

     

    Eventually I managed to glue the original chassis back together aided by plasticard, but also hit the gear meshing problem. Turns out there is just too much gearing play everywhere in the gear train, but especially here, the worm shafts almost going their own way within the worm housing. The answer was to sleeve the bores with brass tubing to remove the play since there wasn't the room withing the chassis to use top-hat type bushes in the housing.

     

    Non of this was ideal but got the loco up and running to a fairly reasonable level, and you may be able to do the same. However to be honest the body deserves a decent chassis/better motor combo if it should prove possible, but this would take some time and effort to produce even based around the current bogies as finding anything with the same 10' wheelbase might prove difficult..

     

     

    Thanks... and commiserations too. Thanks for the steer on the dummy loco. Until the recent issues, I've always found my loco to be a good runner so I don't have too many worries about the motor.

     

    Hi, BR Lines are listing wormwheels in stock. Have a look in the Dapol section. Andy.

    So they are! Last time I asked them I was steered in the direction of DCC Supplies who are now the official Dapol spares people (but don't have anything in stock to solve this problem). Thanks for the tip!

  2. Nice one Ian.

     

    Having had 'issues' spraying Humbrol varnish, my usual recipe for a shiny finish is now Tamiya clear varnish (with Tamiya thinners). The only problem is that it seems to react badly if I use Microscale decal fixing products beforehand.

     

    Other folks recommend Johnson's Klear. I don't think this is available as a household product any more but I do know where it can be had in small quantities for model paintwork purposes.

     

    Regards, Andy

  3. Very nice Andy and worth all the effort. Congratulations! What will be your next model?!?

     

    Thanks Jez. I think I'll have a bit of a rest from chemical tanks for a little while but there are plenty of different ones to do when I feel like it. The next jobs on the list are some more signals for St Ruth since we're appearing at Warley next month.

  4. Drools and thinks "if only in 4mm"!

    Nah. They wouldn't fit on my track then ;)

     

    Seriously, Thanks and I do know of one or two gents intending to model these in 4mm scale but I suspect that they will use different methods - the material volume for 3d printing would of course increase by a factor of 8... which would certainly put me off going down that route.

     

    Chassis-wise, etching is no doubt a good option in 4mm too but somebody would need to consider the question of whether to make it rigid or not. A rigid chassis is fine in 2mm scale - in fact I've recently been de-compensating some of my older stock because my experience when running at shows is that (in our scale) it derails less frequently.

     

    Regards, Andy

  5. Looking good Tom. I think that getting the right degree of shinyness in 2mm scale is a very tricky subject but your Black 5 certainly looks the part.

     

    I'd suggest that a close inspection of the buffer beam on the real thing reveals a bit of muck in hard to reach places and a personal favourite of mine - the buffer heads have a brownish tint but with a big black splodge of grease in the middle - all very restrained but these little things all add up.

     

    Regards, Andy

  6. Card mock ups. There's a great idea. If you pasted the whole thing in shellac once you finished you wouldn't need an etch?

    You're just confirming my view that etched kits are a grown up version of the sort of cardboard cutout stuff with tabs that we used to get on the backs of cereal packets.

     

     

    It was good to have a chat at RMweb Live on Saturday. The tank is looking great, the photos above not really doing it justice! The method you have used for getting thin edges to the sole bar has really paid off.

    Likewise Tom. Ropley is looking good too.

     

    The square post signal was very impressive too, despite the, erm......."challenging" angle the balance weight mounting would need to be ;)

    Yep. The moral of the story is... don't draw etching artwork on the train home after a day working in London... although if I hadn't been doing artwork on the train I'd probably still be doing it now.
  7. Hi Tom,

     

    It was good to see you and the layout on Saturday. Glad the show went well for you, but you really need to make sure that you have someone on hand to allow you to take the odd necessary break and also get food, even if it's just press ganging whoever is to hand on the day.

     

    Did Sunday get any busier without the footie match to put people off?

     

    From your photo it looks like your trains could run straight onto the North Somerset cliffs.

     

    Regards, Andy

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