Lisa

Hi All Taking decent photographs of one's models, in 2mm finescale can be difficult. I have been using the macro facility on my digital camera for some time. However last night, I was experimenting with the camera, and I discovered it has a facility called 'Super Macro'! The photograph below was taken with then lens only 7mm from the subject. You do need of course need to keep the camera very still, but I feel that using this facility does have possibilities. Lisa

I've had 2 years of hassle, and when I arrive in court, the cyclist who ran me over, on the pavement, stands up in court and apologises. And the I find that the crown offered no evidence, Case over! Lisa

No she into the full size item!

Hi All I will be able to do more modelling, now the malicious case against me, by the Crown, for Assault has been dropped. Blog entry, re the completion of the Dairy Building, to follow shortly. Lisa

Hi Now that's an idea, that had not crossed my mind! Lisa

Hi All I've been working on the Dairy roof, but I not had successful as expected. BUT I think all is not lost. Along the way, I have learned some valuable lessons. These are when cutting thin paper, it is important to use a very sharp blade in one's scalpel and to cut, rather than tear you must have the blade at a low angle between the blade and the paper being cut. Coming back to the problems, I’ve got PVA glue on the printed brickwork between two windows, but I think I can retrieve the situation by weathering the wall. The glue on the roof, can be hidden, by spraying the roof, with a mist of green paint. Examination of any roof, shows that lichen grows on them. The roof is made up a series of strips, cut from a sheet, produced using Corel PhotoPaint. By applying strips, rather than simply fixing the sheet on a single piece, gives a 3D surface to the overlapping layers of tiles, that make up the roof. The barge boards are made from thin paper to, and where one became damaged during the gluing, I simply patched it just like the prototype would be. If you think, that all is lost, due to a problem, there is usually a way of retrieving the situation! Lisa

I knew about the lead flashing, as I have had it replaced at the join between the porch and the house recently. I was considering using a soft pencil to give the metallic look. Lisa

Hi All This is my first venture, of modifying a card kit. I am finding working with Rocket Card Glue really easy. Today I have finished the back of the building, which will be against the back scene. The slot in the back, is to allow for a block, which strengthens the back scene, as there will be an opening for trains coming from the Dairy Yard, next to the building. It is my intention, to give the roofs, a slight 3D feel, by adding tiles, made from very thin paper, Pendon style and hence the sloping roof finishes flush with the virtual walls. The paper tiles, will slightly overlap the walls, and a thin paper barge board will be added to complete, the roof. The only extra that will then need to be added will be the down pipes. Lisa

Hi David and ALL The device I am using probably not. BUT a good quality woodworking tool shop will be able to supply a more robust tool, that will probably work with ply. The stripper I use was supplied by Expo and cost about £6.00, so it might be worth a try. The critical point is how hard is the ply, and can you score it an then snap the strips off. Lisa

Hi All I been using a device that I purchased last Christmas in Cardiff. It allow the user to cut thin strips, hence the name, of card or plastic strip. When used with plastic card thicker than 10 thou, the stripper only scores the surface. But by bending the sheet is snaps along the scored line, cleanly. I am currently experimenting using plastic card, to build track bases, instead of using PCB sleepers or Easitrac base. Below is a photograph of some base made, before I found my stripper. The stripper allows the strips to be uniform width. I feel that using the stripper will make this method of track construction feasible. Once the ballast is applied the sleeper joining strip will be hidden, as per commercial flex track, but my track will be built to 2mm fine scale standards, with code 40 rail. Lisa

Hi All I haven't posted for a while. I've been prosecuted for actions which not only did I not committ, but which NEVER happened. The whole incident was made up by the other woman, so that she could claim compensation. I have now done the first modelling, since the start of the case! I am building a dairy, for my tramway layout. I have hacked a Metcalfe warehouse kit, to build a dairy, see photographs below. Despite being built from the kit, it does look like the prototype,the only major difference is the brick colour is slightly wrong, but nothing that weathering will not hide. I still need to finish of the roofs and detail it! Lisa

Neat idea, using a photograph, overlayed with a 2FS logo.

PLEASE PUT A STOP!!!!! button on your video clip, please!!!

Clever idea, re location and electrical connection!

Hi There is a problem with the link from the 2mm website, it only takes you to the main rmweb page, and not to this entry.

Presumably with the sound of steam trains!

What about a location on the isle of Sheppey?

They are not curtins stru, but the concreat arround the openings was shaped to allow the machine gun to be able to turn through 90 degrees.

What is the point of this blog??????????????????????? Lisa

Hindsight is the ONLY exact science! Lisa

Hi I model steam tramways and not railways and I am also interested in light railways. These all have very sharp points, which are usually sharper than Peco settrack points. In this situation settrack points are a excellent tool to visualise how a track plan might work in a very small space. It is very easy to get too ambitious in fitting in too much into a micro layout! Besides which the layout I have designed will be built in N Gauge by a friend, his block is called Great Dexter on the KESR! Lisa

Hi All Following comments, re omissions etc. I have amended the Ebook. Hopefully this is the final version. The Ebook can be accessed via the link below. URL: http://www.diane.me-me.me.uk/Micro_Design/Micro_Design.html Lisa

Hi All Hopefully this is the final version of my Ebook on Micro Layout Design. The link below will allow you to load it! URL: http://www.diane.me-me.me.uk/Micro_Design/Micro_Design.html I hope you find it useful, I have definitely found it useful writing it in that it helped to clarified thoughts. I hope when the heating engineer finishes installing my new central heating, that i will be able to do some real modelling1 Lisa

In that case I'll probably have to settle for following it with interest on RMWeb!

Hi All The latest version of my Ebook on designing micro layouts, can be loaded from the link below. URL: http://www.diane.me-me.me.uk/Micro_Design/Micro_Design.html I've fixed the obvious faults, I think! Lisa