LAQUER

[sulzer71]

Morning

 

I'm about to embark on my first ever repaints , I'm using cellulose car paint through an airbrush , just need some input on laquers , as in the best to apply once transfers have been applied? I know it's best to use a satin or matt over the top which I have but only in Vallejo acrylics

 

Tia 

[Torper]

You have to careful with laquer. I once used some Halfords rattlecan satin laquer over enamel paint with disastrous results. If you haven't used a particular combination before I'd test it first on something unimportant. Probably safest to use the same make of laquer as the cellulose paints you're using if that's possible.  As I tend to use enamel paints I use Humbrol satincote varnish which gives very good results provided you get the thinning right!

 

DT

[ikcdab]

Notwithstanding the issues of mixing different types of paint, then yes. If by laquer you mean varnish, then that is the final thing you apply once the transfers are on.

My method is:

1. Repaint with paint of your choice.  I use acrylics if I possibly can just because it's easier to use water based paint in the airbrush.

2.  Apply thinned gloss varnish with a brush where the transfers are going.

3. Apply transfers.  Normally these must be applied to gloss surfaces.

4.  Apply light weathering, primarily dry brushing to highlight features and a light airbrush with sleeper grime. 

5. Final coat of matt varnish from a spray can.

Ian Coleby

 

 

 

 

[Wheatley]

Beware of it reacting with the decals as well as the paint, test both. I always use use Humbrol acrylic varnish for the varnish coat as, so far, I haven't found anything it reacts with. 

 

[ikcdab]

I recently made the mistake of using Johnson klear as the "pre-transfer" varnish. I then used pressfix transfers fixed with a solution of 30% IPA/70% water.  Result was horrible and the transfers clouded up.  I'm not sure what reacted with what but I had to strip the transfers off and start again. So testing to find your own best mix is important.

Ian

[andyman7]

4 hours ago, col.stephens said:

Ian, what do you mean by 'fixed'?  Are you saying that the IPA/water mix is in place of a varnish over the transfer?  Surely the Pressfix transfers are self-adhesive and simply require a varnish over the top once in place? I'm a bit confused.

Terry

I'm assuming this refers to the need for transfers to have a slightly (or very) glossy surface to stick to if they are going to adhere and blend properly - hence the need to pre-varnish an overly matt surface

Edited April 4, 2022 by andyman7

[Wheatley]

Pressfix only require water and work fine on every gloss surface I've tried them on so far. If they suffer from loss of adhesion I've glued them on with more Klear before now, just like old waterslide transfers. 

 

Methfix require a water/meths (or water/IPA) mix, and the alcohol will react with Klear and send it cloudy. Been there, done that. They're worth it for the lack of carrier film but you can't go anywhere near them with Klear. 

Edited April 4, 2022 by Wheatley

[ikcdab]

10 hours ago, col.stephens said:

Ian, what do you mean by 'fixed'?  Are you saying that the IPA/water mix is in place of a varnish over the transfer?  Surely the Pressfix transfers are self-adhesive and simply require a varnish over the top once in place? I'm a bit confused.

Terry

I was referring to pressfix transfers.  You rub these down onto the model then you moisten them with water.  This releases the support and (as I understand it) fixes the adhesive to very firmly attach the decal to the model.

Ian

[57xx]

I use the HMRS pressfix transfers and Klear as the base coat for them. I've never had any problems with the Klear going cloudy using a mix of meths/water to remove the backing paper on the model.

[ianLMS]

On 04/04/2022 at 14:00, andyman7 said:

I'm assuming this refers to the need for transfers to have a slightly (or very) glossy surface to stick to if they are going to adhere and blend properly - hence the need to pre-varnish an overly matt surface

I believe the main reason for applying transfers to a glossy surface is to prevent tiny air bubbles under the surface which happens with matt or satin finishes. The air bubbles highlight the carrier film and can enable the transfer to lift off.

[57xx]

On 10/06/2022 at 15:35, ianLMS said:

I believe the main reason for applying transfers to a glossy surface is to prevent tiny air bubbles under the surface which happens with matt or satin finishes. The air bubbles highlight the carrier film and can enable the transfer to lift off.

 

This is exactly the reason for glassing before apply transfers.

[Chas Levin]

Interesting stuff; I've been using Klear recently but with waterslide transfers; everything was fine until I tried a touch of Humbrol Decalfix on one lot and that appeared to produce either a very slight clouding, or the residue of the Decalfix wouldn't wash off or perhaps slight bonded to the Klear base coat.

I was surprised, because I'd needed to remove a fully dried coat of Klear from elsewhere and having read up about how to do it, learned that ammonia is by far the easiest and most practical way, as not much else will touch it. 

I guess other things - such as alcohol - may react with the Klear and cause surface clouding, even if they don't fully remove or even soften it?