Lima motor problem

[barney121e]

Have brought a Lima 101 DMU off ebay. No problem with seller as other two he sent me run perfect. But for some reason this one isnt running. Can i ask a really silly question. On the 3 other Lima trains i have the traction tyres are on the right hand wheels, whereas the class 101 has them on the left side. Is there any way this could be causing the issue? I'm 99% sure it isnt but thought i would check.

 

Have also tried running wire from controller to tabs on the ringfield motor but so response. Is that a sign of a non running motor, or are crocodile clips a better idea?

[JST]

It is perfectly possible to reverse the drive bogie by design or by mistake (don't ask me how I know!) so the traction tyre wheels are on the wrong side. A simple check with a multimeter will tell you if the pick up wheels on the driven and trailing bogies are on the same rail. However, if direct application of power to the motor brush holders produces no response, there is something up with the motor. A clean up of the brushes and commutator may help. My personal preference with these is to replace the  motor with a Strathpeffer CD kit.

[barney121e]

9 minutes ago, JST said:

It is perfectly possible to reverse the drive bogie by design or by mistake (don't ask me how I know!) so the traction tyre wheels are on the wrong side. A simple check with a multimeter will tell you if the pick up wheels on the driven and trailing bogies are on the same rail. However, if direct application of power to the motor brush holders produces no response, there is something up with the motor. A clean up of the brushes and commutator may help. My personal preference with these is to replace the  motor with a Strathpeffer CD kit.

Yes, waiting for supplies to test things, although when i look at multimeters i wouldn't know what i'm looking at.

 

[JST]

I suggest that if you are going to be working on any model railway electrics, you really need a basic multimeter. They usually come with instructions but I am sure there are helpful videos on YouTube. It will help you a lot!

[barney121e]

3 minutes ago, JST said:

I suggest that if you are going to be working on any model railway electrics, you really need a basic multimeter. They usually come with instructions but I am sure there are helpful videos on YouTube. It will help you a lot!

Are the cheap ebay one's ok?

 

Edited April 24, 2022 by barney121e

[andyman7]

Whilst a multimeter is undoubtedly useful, you don't need once to check whether the motor bogie has got reversed. Lima mechanisms are electrically live on one side on one bogie and from the other side on the other bogie. On the motor bogie, the insulated side has traction tyres. On the trailing bogie, the insulated side has bushed wheels, but normally a visual check is all that's needed as the live side will show signs of electrical connection (shiny, and possibly carbon crud). If the insulated/live sides are to the same side on both bogies, then the model is not going to move until one or other set of wheels is reversed. On the trailing bogie this is by unclipping the keeper plate and turning the wheels round; on the motor bogie it's by unscrewing the bogie frame and turning the whole motor frame around. It sounds like whatever the issue, if you have two other Lima 101s where the motor bogie is the other way round, then that is at least one of the problems.

 

Other things to check are that the soldered connections are intact and that the brushes/springs are present and making contact. 

Edited April 24, 2022 by andyman7

[PaulaDoesTrains]

8 hours ago, barney121e said:

Are the cheap ebay one's ok?

 

As long as they have a continuity test function (which most seem to list as "circuit buzz tester") they should be fine. You don't need anything particularly fancy for model railways.

[barney121e]

Thanks for everyone's help.

 

With a little luck managed to get the motor running, think engine needs a service but is now running.

[DCB]

On 24/04/2022 at 21:47, barney121e said:

Are the cheap ebay one's ok?

 

Some are, some are £5 and are the same as the ones you find on the high street for £15.   Mine last about three years before they start giving wildly inaccurate readings, I have had an analogue multimeter for 25 years plus, and a couple of 50 year Amp/Volt meters for high amperage work.  The Analogue multimeter is better for continuity testing as you can see and hear the needle clicking against the stop and there are no continuously scrolling numbers.  The digital is better for accurately measuring resistance,    A pure continuity tester with a battery and buzzer is more use than either forrapid  fault finding, but you definitely need some form of tester.

[vikingsmb]

just give it a service, lima motors esp the later small geared slow ones are much better.