paddock wood bay (in a boxfile)

Very nice Pete the feather looks on the bright side or is it the camera. Makes a real difference though.

Don

One tip I found out the hard way with ballesting Pete is to put a bit of blue tack over the hole with the connector in it.

 

I had to rip one out once because i got some PVA glue in it, silly mistake, but very easy when you are wanting to get it all done.

Very nice Pete the feather looks on the bright side or is it the camera. Makes a real difference though.

 

Thanks Don - A little of both I suspect...but I quite like the sharpness and perhaps when seen from the side, as it will be when exhibited, it will not be quite so apparent.

 

One tip I found out the hard way with ballesting Pete is to put a bit of blue tack over the hole with the connector in it. I had to rip one out once because i got some PVA glue in it, silly mistake, but very easy when you are wanting to get it all done.

 

Thanks Matt - that sounds good advice. I will close up the opening further with a piece of trimmed white postcard before I start but it sounds like a blob of blue-tack kept in place when the signals are packed will prevent any loose ballast chippings falling in too...

Looking really good Pete.

 

Graham.

The signals look great now they are up and running. No idea on the switch - we have a similar one but I reckon it's the same size as yours. In the end we changed it for two slide switches, but it's for a different job than yours.

...sounds like a blob of blue-tack kept in place when the signals are packed will prevent any loose ballast chippings falling in too...

Ah, yes. What a marvelous material Blu tack is. I have several models with Blu tack still holding bits on... it's also handy plugging the odd hole in the scenery, masking bearings etc when painting, cleaning gears and I've even used it to clean track when nothing else was to hand. I believe some people stick posters to walls with it too. I wish they did it in mucky brown though.

 

Regards, Andy

Thos lights are really impressive Pete! Unfortunately I can't help on the switch though, I'm not great with electrics so I tend to keep mine to a minimum and as simple as possible.

Best regards,

Jeremy

If you cannot find a small enough rotary switch, you might look at a 4 way slide switch, like this http://uk.farnell.com/te-connectivity-alcoswitch/sts2400pc04/switch-slide-dp4t-300ma-125v-thd/dp/1291137

 

There are also different types of rotary switch, such as this: http://uk.farnell.com/multicomp/mcsrm-8r7g/rotary-switch-7-circuit/dp/1522044

 

Note that Farnell charge a bit in postage, which is umpteen times the cost of an individual component, so you really need to order quite a few items to make it worthwhile.

 

Ian.

Hi Pete -

 

Have a look at RS Components online catalogue.  Funnily enough there's a store just on the fringe of LGW...

 

Regs

 

Ian

Forgot to say... may be worth checking if 'green+feather' is allowed at your location - if the speed of the diverging route (or crossover etc) is low, then I have a feeling that the signal will only clear to amber.

Thanks all - just did a lengthy reply to you all and the forum lost it

 

Will try again tomorrow...

Hi Pete,

 

Nice work - I had exactly the same problem with a Traintronics 4mm feather a few moons ago.  I spent hours trying to get the feather connected up to the rotary and was perplexed why the feather started to come on without the Green or any other light!!!  That's when I realized you had to have a separate switch for it - electrics, eh?  I've got to say that those signals in 2mm are really beautifully made.  

Thanks Mike

 

All credit to Matt for them...think they are probably pretty nice in 4mm amd 7mm too...

That presumably is the 'current' position!

The signals look great now they are up and running. No idea on the switch - we have a similar one but I reckon it's the same size as yours. In the end we changed it for two slide switches, but it's for a different job than yours.

 

Ah, yes. What a marvelous material Blu tack is. I have several models with Blu tack still holding bits on... it's also handy plugging the odd hole in the scenery, masking bearings etc when painting, cleaning gears and I've even used it to clean track when nothing else was to hand. I believe some people stick posters to walls with it too. I wish they did it in mucky brown though.

 

Regards, Andy

 

One of the tips that Roger gave me before I took over the business was the same thing. Blue the hole with blu tack and push ballest into the blu tack for a seamless finsih ;-)

 

Matt

Forgot to say... may be worth checking if 'green+feather' is allowed at your location - if the speed of the diverging route (or crossover etc) is low, then I have a feeling that the signal will only clear to amber.

Just to expand on this topic some more from a friendly Train Driver...

 

Approach Controlled Signal:

For a moderatly slow diverging route the signal will be a single yellow with the feather and as the train gets closer to the signal is would clear to a less restrictive aspect (double yellow or green with feather) if the track circuits are clear in the sections in front of course.

 

Approach Released Signal:

For a very slow diverging route the signal will remain at danger and as the train gets closer to the signal is would clear to a less restrictive aspect (yellow, double yellow or green with feather) if the track circuits are clear in the sections in front.

Thanks Mike

 

All credit to Matt for them...think they are probably pretty nice in 4mm amd 7mm too...

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...grabs back his thread...

 

Thanks for your input here Matt...at least I don't need to correct Andy on his terminology of Amber in lieu of Yellow

 

Thanks to Ian and Ian for the links - am onto it...

 

Thanks also Graham and Jeremy...