Triang TT Technical advice

[NCB]

That's running fine. Looks good. I have a Society JM etched 2P kit to build sometime. Won't have the weight of a cast body so a rigid chassis won't have much pulling power. I'll be putting compensation beams on the drivers which should improve running and increase haulage; worked fine for my Dukedog..

[Robert Shrives]

Crikey it goes like a rocket, you must be pleased - I look forward to the painted finished model- you are certainly much more productive than I am so more stength to your elbow.

Today was spent sorting N gauge locos with a split gear and the otherday getting a look at a B set coach so I get roof joins in right place on the kirk 3mm kit.

 

Regards

Robert  

[Golden Fleece 30]

Hi Robert, it does go slowly just as well although I did not think this was that fast. Hopefully it will be in lined black one day.

 

I assume you mean gears that have split on their axle so no drive? That is not too good hope you can repair them if that is the case.

 

When you mention roof joints does that mean the roof is not one piece? If so that seems strange for a small model.

 

Garry

[Golden Fleece 30]

A few photos of the 14xx. The chassis is now finished but awaiting a motor, I need to find a set of gears to suit what I have built it around. The chassis goes nicely around Tri-ang track without the body and hopefully will do so with the body attached without shorting out. The loco body was "roughly" painted when I bought it and I did not want to strip this as the glueing looked reasonable. When it is finished I will strip it if I do not like it.

 

Garry

[Golden Fleece 30]

I am looking at possibly using Peco track for my layout without modifying Tri-ang loco wheels and found it easy to modify a plain point and may get checkrails etched if I decide to use them. What was a little harder was a diamond crossing and a touch harder still the double slip. I think I have succeeded and will try to set up a proper test section later. Last night it was holding wires here, there and everywhere but had all variations run through each direction of the slip. The only issue was the DMU front bogie with plastic wheels, The ones with metal wheels I converted were fine. The locos and metal wheeled stock really run nice through them.

 

Garry

Edited July 24, 2017 by Golden Fleece 30

[rodshaw]

I also found the Peco curved point problematic with Tri-ang loco wheels.

 

An unexpected problem I had with Peco track was with just one of my Tri-ang locos, a Jinty, which for some reason has deeper flanges than the others, maybe a very early model. The flanges just touch the little pips on the chairs, causing the loco to bobble very slightly and occasionally stall. Needless to say this happens on all Peco track, not just the points. I daresay the pips could be cut or filed off, or the flanges filed down a bit. I'm a bit wary of messing the wheels up though.

[Golden Fleece 30]

I also found the Peco curved point problematic with Tri-ang loco wheels.

 

An unexpected problem I had with Peco track was with just one of my Tri-ang locos, a Jinty, which for some reason has deeper flanges than the others, maybe a very early model. The flanges just touch the little pips on the chairs, causing the loco to bobble very slightly and occasionally stall. Needless to say this happens on all Peco track, not just the points. I daresay the pips could be cut or filed off, or the flanges filed down a bit. I'm a bit wary of messing the wheels up though.

Hi Rod, I had read your post a while ago (month or so) about this somewhere so was interested in seeing what happened. Before I knew of ANY issues I had bought a double slip which is then when I realised the tolerances are for "modern" standards and not Tri-ang's.

 

Due to the complexity of the double slip I bought a diamond crossing a couple of weeks ago to mess with thinking if nothing works it is not an expensive waste. As this worked fine I then bought a couple of points which were very easy to do, remove the check rail and make another. Yesterday I tried the locos out electrically on the point and crossing which was excellent. Remembering your post about the flanges I got out about 10 Jinty chassis's, a Britannia, Castle, DMU and A1A all of which were fine chair wise. So, hand on heart I went to attack the double slip which was not easy due to the closeness of the rails but again all locos apart from the plastic wheeled bogie have gone through with out issues. I have pushed and pulled a coach or wagons through without issue. I only have 4 x 18" homemade lengths or rail at the moment as I don't have any standard Peco track.

I had also noticed yours (or someones) post about the curved points and yesterday managed to win a couple on make an offer which got me them at half price (still new and packaged) so again not to expensive if a mistake is made as I will attack one to see what happens.

 

Thankfully I have not come across a loco with the deeper flanges but if necessary thought about making a bush to hold them in a lathe to turn them down slightly.

 

Garry

Edited July 24, 2017 by Golden Fleece 30

[rodshaw]

One way to get Tri-ang compatible points is to make them yourself. This is a set I made last week, my second, having made a left-hand one a couple of years ago.

 

Not as traumatic as I'd expected. I simply used the home-made jig shown in the second picture, made from card on a balsa wood base, and a home-made track gauge, also from card. To file the point blades I just used a small file and held the rail down firmly on a wooden board. (The top point blade does go a lot closer to the stock rail than shown in the photo). Some of the sleepers still need a bit of trimming.

 

I can't remember where I got the rail from now, it may be Peco or it may be 3mm Society.

 

My Tri-ang locos and stock go through ok, as does the finer 3mm stuff. Only took me a few hours altogether. Not the finest engineering maybe, but at some stage hopefully they'll be painted, covered in ballast and actually used!

 

 

[Golden Fleece 30]

Here is a video of my modified Peco points and standard Tri-ang loco wheels running on test.

 

 

 

I like the point Rod, very nice, and a long time ago I used to make some but these days it is not for me unless I need something I cannot work around with off the shelf items. 

 

Garry

[Golden Fleece 30]

Peco TT points

 

This is my method for modifying the Peco points to allow Tri-ang wheels to go through.  I have read it can be done but not actually seen a proper description so had a go myself as I did not want to start modifying the loco wheels.

 

The first thing is to remove all check rails using a small saw at a low angle. Clean up the plastic base so the sleepers are "level" and no remains of the moulded rail. Two webs between the sleepers are removed and in this case two small strips of Nickel silver are soldered to the rail. A new check rail is made from spare rail and soldered to the two strips. I may have these etched as one piece later which will make fitting a lot easier. So far only one check rail has been done yet the locos etc have run through the crossing and slip without issues with no check rails fitted.
The diamond crossing had the internal check rails removed using pliers and grinding with the Dremel. The straight running rails had a small piece sawn off the ends using the same saw. A new one piece Diamond was made slightly narrower than Tri-ang back to back measurement and glued in place.
The Double slip had its 4 straight rail ends sawn down a little as per the diamond and that is all there is to it. Care was needed here due to the closeness of the other rails.

I am now just waiting for a curved point to try the same.

[fallen]

I have found that adjusting the back-to-back of the wheelsets, making it slightly bigger, helps a lot with getting the Triang stock to run through the Peco points.

 

Easing the wagon and coach bogie wheels apart a bit is easy enough, the loco wheels can also be eased but require a lot more force to move them.

 

Frank

[Golden Fleece 30]

I have found that adjusting the back-to-back of the wheelsets, making it slightly bigger, helps a lot with getting the Triang stock to run through the Peco points.

 

Easing the wagon and coach bogie wheels apart a bit is easy enough, the loco wheels can also be eased but require a lot more force to move them.

 

Frank

Hi Frank, unfortunately I cannot do that because as soon as the wheels are moved out on the axles the wheels are too tight to go around Tri-ang curves smoothly having the flanges rubbing the rails.  I know because I did try one loco, I know it is about .1mm or so but it makes a lot of difference.  This way I can still have my loose lay Tri-ang but also run through Peco.

[Golden Fleece 30]

The 14xx is now a runner and weather permitting a video will be made tomorrow and to test her strength. I do need to see what I can do with that paint job. I tried to touch up what I bought without stripping it and as I have glued some lead inside it might be difficult now.  The motor as can be seen is fitted to the front axle so I may make some "skirts" for under the boiler.

 

Garry

[NCB]

On mine I managed to put the drive on the second axle, which meant I could then fill the missing underside of the boiler with part of a brass tube. Improves the look quite a lot. Have you thought of all-black BR livery?

[Golden Fleece 30]

On mine I managed to put the drive on the second axle, which meant I could then fill the missing underside of the boiler with part of a brass tube. Improves the look quite a lot. Have you thought of all-black BR livery?

Hi Nigel,  I had hoped by fitting the motor on the front axle it would have given some weight over the drivers but the motors are very light compared to the old days so did not help much (if at all).  Plus, I did not make a fixed/ridged chassis as I wanted it to go around Tri-ang curves so it has a sprung pony truck.

 

Regarding livery there were two in the sale this one painted, and, an unpainted one and I was hoping to have one of each black and green.  The other one was quite badly dented and soldered so I have filed off all beading etc and going to make some thin brass overlays for the tank and bunker.  At the moment doing this as the black one as you say may be the best option.

 

As I have no knowledge of most motors and gearboxes for TT I designed the chassis for front wheel drive as the originals had been anyway but without using the Terrier motor.  As it happens for the motor I used, Hanazono, I had to file some of the chassis to allow the motor to fit inside the boiler anyway.

 

Garry

[Golden Fleece 30]

Here is the 14xx running, the Romfords are not too keen on Tri-ang track but cope.

 

 

Garry

[Robert Shrives]

Hi 

14xx looks good will you have the chassis for sale in a while ?  Peco trackwork mods look the part . Given the recent introduction of 0 gauge setrack range i wonder if the 12mm range will get a make over?

 

Cheers

Robert   

[Golden Fleece 30]

Hi 

14xx looks good will you have the chassis for sale in a while ?  Peco trackwork mods look the part . Given the recent introduction of 0 gauge setrack range i wonder if the 12mm range will get a make over?

 

Cheers

Robert   

Hi Robert,

 

The 14xx is available and I will send you a PM.  Since the video was done I have also modified a couple of curved points which work just as well, their only issue to me is the length of them.  I have had to modify my track plan to fit them in so doubt I will get anymore of them for a while.

 

I wondered if Peco would make some set track too which would be handy, curve wise especially.  I am surprised how nicely the stock runs through the slip and crossing without any check rails installed yet opposite the frogs.

 

Today's collection is on the new thread something like "When TT3 was the next big thing".

 

Garry

Edited August 2, 2017 by Golden Fleece 30

[NCB]

Tillig does some set track in 12mm gauge. Looks OK, rather like Kato Unitrack. May be a bit pricey, not sure.

[Golden Fleece 30]

Tillig does some set track in 12mm gauge. Looks OK, rather like Kato Unitrack. May be a bit pricey, not sure.

Far too pricey for me.

 

Garry

Edited August 3, 2017 by Golden Fleece 30

[Baldwin30762]

Hi Garry I have just seen your 3mm chassis kits for both the 14xx and the 4-4-0, can you give me the wheel base (in mm please) for each kit as they may work in 00n3 as well for some of the Irish 3ft gauge loco. 

 

Regards

 

Colin Rainsbury

[Golden Fleece 30]

Hi Garry I have just seen your 3mm chassis kits for both the 14xx and the 4-4-0, can you give me the wheel base (in mm please) for each kit as they may work in 00n3 as well for some of the Irish 3ft gauge loco. 

 

Regards

 

Colin Rainsbury

Hi Colin,

 

The 2P is 27.35mm and the 14xx is 22mm.  Hope this helps.

 

Garry

[Baldwin30762]

Thanks Gary I just need to go and work something out now, that works out in 4mm the 2p equals out at 6ft 10ins and the 14xx works out at 5ft 6in in 4mm which I think are very useful size wheel bases.

 

Colin 

Edited April 13, 2018 by Baldwin30762

[zephyrman]

Hi, where do you get your wheels from? Is there anyone who makes tt gauge coach wheels and bearings?

[whart57]

It depends whether you mean wheels for 3mm scale or continental TT. I would suggest the following:

 

• If you are contemplating a lot of TT/3mm scale work the best thing is to join the 3mm Society (https://sites.google.com/site/3mmpublic/).
  They do the full range and they are also cheaper to members than anyone else so you'll recoup your membership fee
   
• If you only want a few wheels then try 3SMR. They do most sizes.
   
• If you are after 12mm gauge wheels another place to try may be Dundas models as you will probably find their OOn3 wheels are compatible with most standard TT wheels