RMweb Gold tom shaw Posted May 14, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted May 14, 2016 Haven't been able to do much on the layout for a few weeks but finally managed to do something so here's an update. Firstly I made a couple of Cambrian Boplate E's I picked up at the Scalefour North show in Wakefield. Need painting, transfers and couplings fitted but they will look good carrying steel sheets. On the layout itself I've gone round the bend. I've laid track on the right hand board and the blocks of wood on the photo below show where a bridge will hide the entry to the off-stage bit and the hidden sidings. A piece of 20 thou plastic card brings the C&L track up to the same height as the peco track I am using in the hidden sidings. The remaining photos are general views with the engine shed in place to give an overall impression of what the layout will look like. Next jobs are to carry on with the right hand curve into the hidden sidings and start the left hand curve from the yard into the hidden sidings at that end. Tom 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian D Posted May 14, 2016 Share Posted May 14, 2016 (edited) Looking excellent Tom. I am glad you are round the bend, I am only half way round the bend but hope to be completely round the bend soon :-) Seriously, I am looking forward to seeing how you replicate the steel sheet loads on the Boplates. Best Regards, Brian. Edited May 14, 2016 by Brian D Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bri.s Posted May 14, 2016 Share Posted May 14, 2016 Nice following track and point work ,great work Brian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold tom shaw Posted June 7, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 7, 2016 I've made a start on the engine shed roof including ventilation stacks and roof lights. Lots more detail to add along with a dose of weathering. The roof itself is Superquick tile paper and is certainly quicker than laying overlapping strips. I think some models have too much relief on the roof but this has none at all so I'll have to see if I can live with it. Tom 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold tom shaw Posted June 25, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 25, 2016 Two Hornby Q6's came this morning, the late crest version isn't out yet so I bought the early crest. They've been de-crested and de-numbered and await renumbering to suitable examples from Tyne Dock and Sunderland. Prior to this I decided I didn't like the tile paper on the engine shed, the rooflights were too big and the smoke stacks were also too big. Apart from that it was ok. I have replaced the tile paper with embossed plasticard and remade the rooflights a bit smaller. Smoke stacks yet to do. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian D Posted June 25, 2016 Share Posted June 25, 2016 Two Hornby Q6's came this morning, the late crest version isn't out yet so I bought the early crest. They've been de-crested and de-numbered and await renumbering to suitable examples from Tyne Dock and Sunderland. 20160625_162231r.jpg Prior to this I decided I didn't like the tile paper on the engine shed, the rooflights were too big and the smoke stacks were also too big. Apart from that it was ok. I have replaced the tile paper with embossed plasticard and remade the rooflights a bit smaller. Smoke stacks yet to do. 20160625_162130r.jpg Great stuff - lovely Q6s. I am expecting one of these soon - actually it is tucked away upstairs in my wife's care pending my Birthday on Monday. It will of course be posed on the new layout the same day and pictures posted very soon after. Best Regards, Brian. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alcanman Posted June 26, 2016 Share Posted June 26, 2016 Two Hornby Q6's came this morning, the late crest version isn't out yet so I bought the early crest. They've been de-crested and de-numbered and await renumbering to suitable examples from Tyne Dock and Sunderland. 20160625_162231r.jpg Prior to this I decided I didn't like the tile paper on the engine shed, the rooflights were too big and the smoke stacks were also too big. Apart from that it was ok. I have replaced the tile paper with embossed plasticard and remade the rooflights a bit smaller. Smoke stacks yet to do. 20160625_162130r.jpg Looking good. How about Tyne Dock's 63371 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Q663368 Posted June 26, 2016 Share Posted June 26, 2016 Could you please tell me your procedure for de-numbering and de-cresting your Q6's. They look very good. Have they had a respray ?. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold tom shaw Posted June 26, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 26, 2016 63371 looks nice but I don't know where I would get the specially painted numberplate, shedplate and buffer lettering, may have to be more nondescript one. As for de-numbering and de-cresting nothing could simpler in this case as the items are decals. I covered the decal in a pool of microsol (used to soften new decals around rivets etc.) for about 15 minutes then stippled the decal with a small but stiff artists paintbrush. A minute or so of this and the decal starts to break up. I worked the decal from the extremities into the middle and rolled it up into a ball for removal. Funnily enough I noticed that the curved numbers (6 and 3) took longer to remove than the staight lines of the 4's. Anyway the microsol has no effect on the paintwork and there is no need to respray, once blotted up with kitchen towel the microsol leaves no trace. Take care to remove all the little bits of decal from the model and from the brush and work from a separate pot of microsol so bits of decal don't get into the bottle for future use. This won't work on screen printed numbering etc. Of course all this and the engine shed have mean't nothing has been done on the layout for a couple of weeks, story of my life. Tom Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Q663368 Posted June 26, 2016 Share Posted June 26, 2016 (edited) 63371 looks nice but I don't know where I would get the specially painted numberplate, shedplate and buffer lettering, may have to be more nondescript one. As for de-numbering and de-cresting nothing could simpler in this case as the items are decals. I covered the decal in a pool of microsol (used to soften new decals around rivets etc.) for about 15 minutes then stippled the decal with a small but stiff artists paintbrush. A minute or so of this and the decal starts to break up. I worked the decal from the extremities into the middle and rolled it up into a ball for removal. Funnily enough I noticed that the curved numbers (6 and 3) took longer to remove than the staight lines of the 4's. Anyway the microsol has no effect on the paintwork and there is no need to respray, onjce blotted up with kitchen towel the microsol leaves no trace. Take care to remove all the little bits of decal from the model and from the brush and work from a separate pot of microsol so bits of decal don't get into the bottle for future use. This won't work on screen printed numbering etc. Of course all this and the engine shed have mean't nothing has been done on the layout for a couple of weeks, story of my life. Tom Hi Tom, Many thanks for the updates and info. Interesting that Hornby have used decals instead of screen printing. My early crest versions of the Q6 are in transit. It appears the later ones should be available this week. I love the concept of your layout bye the way and will follow you progress with interest. Kindest regards Alan Edited June 26, 2016 by Q663368 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Q663368 Posted June 26, 2016 Share Posted June 26, 2016 63371 looks nice but I don't know where I would get the specially painted numberplate, shedplate and buffer lettering, may have to be more nondescript one. As for de-numbering and de-cresting nothing could simpler in this case as the items are decals. I covered the decal in a pool of microsol (used to soften new decals around rivets etc.) for about 15 minutes then stippled the decal with a small but stiff artists paintbrush. A minute or so of this and the decal starts to break up. I worked the decal from the extremities into the middle and rolled it up into a ball for removal. Funnily enough I noticed that the curved numbers (6 and 3) took longer to remove than the staight lines of the 4's. Anyway the microsol has no effect on the paintwork and there is no need to respray, once blotted up with kitchen towel the microsol leaves no trace. Take care to remove all the little bits of decal from the model and from the brush and work from a separate pot of microsol so bits of decal don't get into the bottle for future use. This won't work on screen printed numbering etc. Of course all this and the engine shed have mean't nothing has been done on the layout for a couple of weeks, story of my life. Tom Sorry Tom, Have you used this same method on the Hornby K1's by any chance ?. I see you have one peaking out of the shed. Many thanks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold tom shaw Posted June 26, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 26, 2016 Sorry Tom, Have you used this same method on the Hornby K1's by any chance ?. I see you have one peaking out of the shed. Many thanks. I haven't changed the number on that one yet but I mean to, I can give it a go if you want and see if it works. Tom Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Q663368 Posted June 26, 2016 Share Posted June 26, 2016 I haven't changed the number on that one yet but I mean to, I can give it a go if you want and see if it works. Tom Hi Tom, I was unsuccessful this afternoon in trying to remove the tender decal on the K1, for what it's worth. I was using the red bottle. Regards Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Q663368 Posted June 26, 2016 Share Posted June 26, 2016 Hi Tom, I was unsuccessful this afternoon in trying to remove the tender decal on the K1, for what it's worth. I was using the red bottle. Regards Alan Be careful, my valve gear on the K1 just fell apart, both sides. Not sure if it's a plastic rivet or not. I have disassembled it but it is going to be fiddle to fix. Thank God the Q6 does not have valve gear. Regards Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold tom shaw Posted June 26, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 26, 2016 Hi Tom, I was unsuccessful this afternoon in trying to remove the tender decal on the K1, for what it's worth. I was using the red bottle. Regards Alan Sorry to hear that Alan, must be screen printed then. If I get some time tomorrow (England playing) I'll have a go. Some people use thinners and a cotton bud but this can affect the paint if overdone. I have used a sharp, curved scalpel blade to very gently scrape away a number using backward pulls, in fact the EE type 3 in the photo you refer to had the number changed this way. Be very gentle though and I will deny any knowledge of this conversation if anything untoward happens ! Just do it and clag everything up with weathering. Yes, the red bottle of microsol is the one to use to remove decals. Tom Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBAGE Posted June 26, 2016 Share Posted June 26, 2016 I use t-cut on a cotton bud. I haven't tried it on the K1 yet though. Bob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBAGE Posted June 26, 2016 Share Posted June 26, 2016 The T-cut leaves a nice glossy surface to take the replacement transfers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Q663368 Posted June 26, 2016 Share Posted June 26, 2016 Tom and Bob, IPA works with a cotton bud but leaves a sheen. I will wait for the Q6's to arrive here in Canada, hopefully this week. The K1 valve gear issue was due to the plastic rivet breaking off the cylinder block, both sides. I ordered four replacement blocks from Peter's Spares (took all he had as I have four K1's) although I will try putting a brass rod into the block now I know where it should go. Thanks for the responses, much appreciated. Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold tom shaw Posted June 28, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 28, 2016 Tom and Bob, IPA works with a cotton bud but leaves a sheen. I will wait for the Q6's to arrive here in Canada, hopefully this week. The K1 valve gear issue was due to the plastic rivet breaking off the cylinder block, both sides. I ordered four replacement blocks from Peter's Spares (took all he had as I have four K1's) although I will try putting a brass rod into the block now I know where it should go. Thanks for the responses, much appreciated. Alan Alan, I never realised India Pale Ale had such properties, if it takes decals off what does it do to your insides ? Tom Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold tom shaw Posted August 5, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 5, 2016 Long time no post but I have been busy. I was inspired by the efforts of RBAGE (Bob) to finish my Tyne Dock 9F, while not up to his standard I'm quite pleased with it. I then got the weathering, renumbering and crewing bug and attacked my nice new Hornby Q6's. Then I thought it would be nice to do a bit to my Dave Alexander Q6. Tom 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold tom shaw Posted August 5, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 5, 2016 I forgot about my Hornby K1. Weathered and crewed but not renumbered, I discovered that 62027 had been shedded at Consett so fitted my plans nicely. Tom 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBAGE Posted August 6, 2016 Share Posted August 6, 2016 Lovely work Tom. They look superb with your engine shed as a backdrop. Can't wait to get some track layed so I can pose mine in front of my new roundhouse;) Bob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Q663368 Posted August 13, 2016 Share Posted August 13, 2016 Hi Tom, Lovely work. Nice loco crews too. Do you mind telling me the source ?. The tender decals came of a treat using your.chosen method - many thanks for the tip. Kindest regards Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold tom shaw Posted August 13, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 13, 2016 Thanks Alan and Bob for the comments. The crews are mainly from Monty's Models (http://www.dartcastings.co.uk/montys.php) but some Dapol Regards, Tom Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold tom shaw Posted August 21, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 21, 2016 Anybody want to buy a Sunderland season ticket ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now