eastworld Posted September 3, 2018 Share Posted September 3, 2018 Re what to do with the space above the track to the right of the bridge - how about just waste ground/site of a demolished building? This would be in keeping with the rest of the layout and an excuse to place a few bits of junk such as a burnt out car, dumped fridge/furniture etc. Alternatively some oil tanks? Stu 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Booking Hall Posted September 3, 2018 Author Share Posted September 3, 2018 Re what to do with the space above the track to the right of the bridge - how about just waste ground/site of a demolished building? This would be in keeping with the rest of the layout and an excuse to place a few bits of junk such as a burnt out car, dumped fridge/furniture etc. Alternatively some oil tanks? Stu Thanks for those suggestions Stu. Overnight my brain must have been working on this whilst I was asleep as I've realised that these two boxes lack any real 'height' which made the existing ones so successful, so I'm going to change the proposed partly demolished workshop to an operational building 3 or 4 storeys high, with either a covered loading bay or having the line running into the building (which could also continue into the fiddle yard for exchange of full/empty wagons). Then I could use the as yet unallocated space for a semi-demolished building as you suggest! A result I think Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted September 3, 2018 Share Posted September 3, 2018 Looking forward to the extension Paul, as said earlier, I recon a bit of wasteland would be good in the space, plenty of Brambles, junk etc. Steve. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Booking Hall Posted September 3, 2018 Author Share Posted September 3, 2018 Looking forward to the extension Paul, as said earlier, I recon a bit of wasteland would be good in the space, plenty of Brambles, junk etc. Steve. yep, and here's an inspiration photo I took of a former mill in Burnley. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
eastworld Posted September 4, 2018 Share Posted September 4, 2018 Scope for rubble remains, bent and twisted unidentifiable metal bits, extra rubbish dumped by locals, pools of water gathering where drains are blocked, a cat scrounging around etc etc ? Stu 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Booking Hall Posted September 11, 2018 Author Share Posted September 11, 2018 A session in the workshop today resulted in all the trackwork openings being cut and the box fronts disconnected from the sides. Next job is to make the scenic box lid support brackets, so the lids will stand upright, then the skyscene and backscenes can be applied. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Booking Hall Posted September 14, 2018 Author Share Posted September 14, 2018 Learning from my mistakes on the first part of the build, when i found that locos particularly would jolt across the large gap between the switch rail and the crossing vee on these Setrack points, this time I'm modifying them BEFORE installing them - it's SO much easier! Some 20thou plasticard microstrip glued in the flangeways and filed to fit extends the switch rail, and similar pieces glued to the check rails keeps the wheels where they should be. There is still a slight drop as wagon wheels pass over, but it's very much better than before, and should be fine where larger loco wheels are concerned. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Booking Hall Posted September 18, 2018 Author Share Posted September 18, 2018 All 'woodworking' on the boxes is now finished, including the recesses in the top of each end to accommodate the foldback clips I use to hold them together, and on which the bridge/fiddleyard screening sections attach with magnets. My home-made skyscene has been assembled and glued to the box lids, followed by the town backscene. This is sheet 2 of the Townscene series from Freestone Model Accessories, and complements the sheet 1 I used on the original boxes, having been painted in a similar style. In front of this the terraced house backs (also provided with sheet 2) have been mounted on card to give some relief and will hold in place with magnetic strip. The road bridge masking the box ends will be made on the skew to give more visual variety. 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Booking Hall Posted September 21, 2018 Author Share Posted September 21, 2018 Well, that's the track glued down and first stage wiring completed - all three wires of it! Actually, this electrical installation will be slightly more complicated than the first three boxes. Firstly, for operational purposes, I need to be able to isolate the second siding into the fiddleyard, so a switch will be needed, and to make these three plus the original fiddleyard box able to operate as a standalone layout, I need to add a another switch to isolate the jack plug socket into which I plug the controller, otherwise a short would occur. As I was so pleased with the improved appearance of the Peco streamline track I used on my second cakebox diorama, where I cut all the webs of the sleepers and re-spaced them to a more prototypical appearance, I've done the same with the plain track on this build, at least where it will be in the open. I've also had a change of thought about the central road bridge. It just didn't work as such, as the road didn't make a logical connection with the backscene. Instead, I'm going to make it into a disused and lifted railway line with a fence of some sort at the back of the bridge, masking that part of the backscene. The bridge girders are being scratchbuilt from card and the deck will be balsa. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted September 21, 2018 Share Posted September 21, 2018 Learning from my mistakes on the first part of the build, when i found that locos particularly would jolt across the large gap between the switch rail and the crossing vee on these Setrack points, this time I'm modifying them BEFORE installing them - it's SO much easier! Some 20thou plasticard microstrip glued in the flangeways and filed to fit extends the switch rail, and similar pieces glued to the check rails keeps the wheels where they should be. There is still a slight drop as wagon wheels pass over, but it's very much better than before, and should be fine where larger loco wheels are concerned. I'm having problems with running over code 100 streamline 3 way points and wonder if the same method might work, does all your stock now run better throught the points? Have you any older wagons with thicker wheels? Steve. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rue_d_etropal Posted September 22, 2018 Share Posted September 22, 2018 It seems to be easy to blame the track, but for everyone who seems to have a problem, there are many others(including many to exhibit their layouts) who have no problem with their track. On the other hand we have found in our club(just down the road) that back to backs on wheels on newer models is a problem sometimes. I am concerned that Peco might look to the future and think that as wheels get finer they should reduce gap on check rails. This they actually did do many years ago and prior to that did recommend fitting thin strps to narrow the gap on older points . I have had problems on Atlas track, but the opposite where stock would not run through gap, so would not like to see that being done on other track systems. Otherwise new boxfiles looking good(but they would sill be better my way round!). Not long till November!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Booking Hall Posted September 24, 2018 Author Share Posted September 24, 2018 (edited) I'm having problems with running over code 100 streamline 3 way points and wonder if the same method might work, does all your stock now run better throught the points? Have you any older wagons with thicker wheels? Steve. Hi Steve, I don't see why it shouldn't effect an improvement, but no, I use modern wheels on my rolling stock and found that ensuring the back to back dimension was correct (as mentioned by Simon above, and even new wheelsets are sometimes out!) and consistent was equally important in improving the running and reliability through the points. Good luck! Edited September 24, 2018 by Booking Hall Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Booking Hall Posted September 24, 2018 Author Share Posted September 24, 2018 It seems to be easy to blame the track, but for everyone who seems to have a problem, there are many others(including many to exhibit their layouts) who have no problem with their track. On the other hand we have found in our club(just down the road) that back to backs on wheels on newer models is a problem sometimes. I am concerned that Peco might look to the future and think that as wheels get finer they should reduce gap on check rails. This they actually did do many years ago and prior to that did recommend fitting thin strps to narrow the gap on older points . I have had problems on Atlas track, but the opposite where stock would not run through gap, so would not like to see that being done on other track systems. Otherwise new boxfiles looking good(but they would sill be better my way round!). Not long till November!!! Thanks for adding your thoughts Simon, no, the exhibition will come around with frightening speed!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Booking Hall Posted September 24, 2018 Author Share Posted September 24, 2018 Bridge girders built and awaiting painting. First section of wall installed. Characteristically, I've made work for myself by putting the bridge on a skew, and adding blind recesses in the brickwork. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted September 24, 2018 Share Posted September 24, 2018 Hi Steve, I don't see why it shouldn't effect an improvement, but no, I use modern wheels on my rolling stock and found that ensuring the back to back dimension was correct (as mentioned by Simon above, and even new wheelsets are sometimes out!) and consistent was equally important in improving the running and reliability through the points. Good luck! Thanks Paul, I'll get a back to back gauge and check my stock. The girder bridge is coming along nicely. Steve. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Booking Hall Posted September 26, 2018 Author Share Posted September 26, 2018 (edited) One side of the plate girder bridge is nearly complete, I still have the above deck girders and brickwork to weather and the brick parapet walls to build, but it's beginning to come to. As a change from the mainly blue brick I used in the previous two boxes, for this bridge I've used Scalescenes 'weathered aged brown' brick, with blue brick detailing. For the continuation of this bridge over the canal I've decided to try and make lattice girders out of card, just to add variety! Edited September 27, 2018 by Booking Hall 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Job's Modelling Posted September 28, 2018 Share Posted September 28, 2018 I do like your new "layout" Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Booking Hall Posted September 28, 2018 Author Share Posted September 28, 2018 Lattice girders now finished and primed, these will be let into the bridge deck shortly. Removable abutment made but not yet finished. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Booking Hall Posted September 30, 2018 Author Share Posted September 30, 2018 This bridge is taking waaaayyyyy longer than it should, but as I've made it on the skew, every part is different! Almost there now though, just the ballasting and weathering to do, but I'm not happy with the removable canal abutment, so I may remake that. I'm having a play around with a free download of a derelict factory for the back of the left hand box, which will be the next thing to think about. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Booking Hall Posted October 3, 2018 Author Share Posted October 3, 2018 Work on the bridge has stopped temporarily until I get some ballast, so I've turned my attention to the foreground of the clothing factory. I've modified a free download backscene print to make it 3D and now I need to build the boiler house bit. This will use old, weathered brickwork to give it a Victorian appearance, whereas the single storey workshop extension uses more modern stretcher bond brickwork to suggest something put up in the late 1940's/ early 50's, but now disused and feeling the effects of the downturn in the cotton and clothing markets of the early 1960's. I haven't made the flat roof and parapet yet. The siding adjacent to the boiler house will disappear under a corrugated asbestos or iron canopy to mask the exit to the fiddle yard. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted October 3, 2018 Share Posted October 3, 2018 Love that building Paul, the broken glass looks realy effective. Steve. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mullie Posted October 3, 2018 Share Posted October 3, 2018 Where did the download come from? Looks like it has real potential. Martyn Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Booking Hall Posted October 4, 2018 Author Share Posted October 4, 2018 Where did the download come from? Looks like it has real potential. Martyn Hi Martyn, it came from the 'Railway modelling on a limited income' Facebook page, in the files section. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1432769530314576/files/ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Booking Hall Posted October 5, 2018 Author Share Posted October 5, 2018 (edited) Some progress over the last couple of days with the boiler house. I thought I was going to clad this in brick paper, but as the factory on the backscene is depicted in ashlar stonework, I decided to use coursed rubble for the 3D bit, with brick detailing. Of course, the backscene is most likely depicting the front of the factory, whereas the boiler house would probably be hidden away around the back, but hey ho. The lower part will be fixed in the box, and the roof and chimney will both be separate pieces. Edited October 5, 2018 by Booking Hall 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Booking Hall Posted October 6, 2018 Author Share Posted October 6, 2018 (edited) Having looked at it for a day, and, more importantly, having looked at numerous photos of West Midlands mills, factories and the like, I decided that the stone just wasn't right, either in appearance or colour, so it's been replaced with Scalescenes aged brown brick. When the glue has dried I will cut out the windows again. The brown cardboard mock up has been made to test the look of a corrugated shed to hide the exit to the fiddleyard. If I'm feeling in need of more 'fiddling about' I might make a lantern ventilator for the boiler house roof. Edited October 6, 2018 by Booking Hall 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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