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Well done!

 

I find phospher bronze strip better for pick-ups than wire, it's more springy but has less force so doesn't cause so much drag (i.e. earlier attempts may have been successful...)

Yes, PB would have been better, unfortunately, I didn't have any and couldn't wait to get some!

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Railbus finished, at least in its pristine state. I won't have time to weather it before the exhibition on Saturday. There are a few things I'm not entirely happy with (and I'm not going to admit what they are, I'm sure you will be able to spot them for yourselves!!), but overall I'm pleased with the result. Also, some pallets made for the factory loading platform.

 

Last job to do is finish the tender for the Caley 'Pug'.

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I hope this is OK to post? If you want to see Brierley Canal Road at its first public outing, it will be at Padiham Unitarian Church's 17th annual model railway event tomorrow, Saturday 4th November. Padiham is near Burnley in East Lancashire. All the details are here http://www.ukmodelshops.co.uk/events/13945-Event?utm_source=UKMS-Newsletter&utm_campaign=692a2fa277-my_google_analytics_key&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_5793ec7d3f-692a2fa277-121095117

 

If you can make it, I'd love to say 'hello'! (strange how the camera makes the totem look green on my monitor! I hope it looks maroon on yours!)

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Edited by Booking Hall
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Brierley Canal Road at its first exhibition. Operationally, it went OK and the Caley Pug was a star performer. The railbus not so good, needing a helping finger on several of its short journeys. Luckily, a lot of visitors wanted to talk about the layout and its construction, but even so, operational boredom set in quite quickly. It reinforced to me the need to build some more boxes on the other end of the fiddle yard to give the trains somewhere to go. I have the idea for the first box mapped out (a derelict northlight factory, possibly partly demolished) which should be reasonably quick to knock up. After that, I'm not sure yet . . .

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  • 3 months later...

Progress with the DJH class 02 shunter for Brierley Canal Road. She poses for her portrait in 'works grey'.

That looks great, look forward to seeing it painted and on your layout. What was the kit like to build?

Steve.

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That looks great, look forward to seeing it painted and on your layout. What was the kit like to build?

Steve.

Hi Steve. It's marketed as a beginners EDIT having just looked at the box again it calls itself a starter kit (which may not be the same thing as a 'beginners' kit, possibly it refers more to the fact that it comes complete with wheels and motor) kit, but I think an absolute beginner might struggle a bit. The main issue is that you have to modify the etched nickel chassis to take the motor now supplied, as the motor it was designed for is no longer available. this involves filing out a chunk from the top edge, to allow the new motor to sit further down in the chassis, otherwise the worm doesn't mesh. In doing so, you file off the little tab to which the pick-up fixes, so I cut this off and re-soldered it further down. (None of this is explained in the instructions, it took an email to DJH to elicit this 'fix')

 

After that, it went together quite easily, and the castings are very good and fit well. I carved off the moulded handrails and handles (all 19 of them!), and replaced them with brass wire, just for the better appearance this gives.

Edited by Booking Hall
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Hi Paul!

 

You really have built the most beautiful Boxfile-layout I know!

Great what you have implemented on this small area!

I was always happy when there was something new here.

 

I read that you show the layout also on exhibitions, if there are more, I wish a lot of fun and success!

 

Here in Germany boxfiles are not common, so I know them only recently.

But your (!) layout inspired me to built something similar (when my inglenook sidings layout is "finished").

 

Best regards - Thomas

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Hi Paul!

 

You really have built the most beautiful Boxfile-layout I know!

Great what you have implemented on this small area!

I was always happy when there was something new here.

 

I read that you show the layout also on exhibitions, if there are more, I wish a lot of fun and success!

 

Here in Germany boxfiles are not common, so I know them only recently.

But your (!) layout inspired me to built something similar (when my inglenook sidings layout is "finished").

 

Best regards - Thomas

Thank you for those very kind words Thomas. I wish you all the best with your own creations.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello Paul and Hello all,

 

I saw this post and thought I would like to throw my spanner in the works, I hope you and others reading this are not too dismayed, it may even save you from yourselves especially if you plan to take a micro to a show.

 

When I designed my first micro, Moxley I started with the Inglenook, drawing it on scraps of paper and working out the movements in my head. I soon realised that it would be deadly boring after an hour or so. Some people use a card system but I think even that would fail after a couple of hours.

 

I thought of an Inglenook with just one point and a traverser, hmmm, not much different!

 

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But add a loco release on the other side of the traverser and the top and bottom traverser roads can be used for stock, the loco can get behind them and the operation goes further than my feeble brain can envisage. 

4 years later I still take the layout to shows and even now find different ways of doing things.

 

Alter the track plan slightly and you can have a kickback siding and use the traverser as a 'run round'.

 

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I made a single slip for this one but in 00 two points would easily go in place.

 

Traversers are easy to make from a few bits of wood making sure that it wobbles a bit in it's wooden groove and take that out with some adjustment screws at each end of it's travel.

 

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Two strips of wood for the groove and third strip under the traverser board and a simple tongue and groove at each end to keep it in place. This is made from 5mm ply and can be picked up with one finger and it will never warp.

 

Cheers

[edit] years too many of them

 

Nice explanation and photo Jim, what is the depth of baseboard sides, is there a minimum in order to stop it warping?

Steve.

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Now christened as D2854, my kit-built class 02 shunter awaits her 3-link couplings and a bit of light weathering. Strewth, wasp stripes are sooooo hard to paint!!!

Super job! Quite fancy doing one of those myself, perect for small layouts too, but they don't seem to be on the DJH website currently. The Barclay tank "starter kit" is, but the eyewatering price (£180) made my jaw drop. . . .

 

Well done on those wasp stripes, a very neat job! I cheated last time I did some, and printed alternating black and yellow lines onto transfer film using the computer, before cutting out what I needed which is ok for flat surfaces but not great on raised detail or curved corners! Yours look spot on.

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Super job! Quite fancy doing one of those myself, perect for small layouts too, but they don't seem to be on the DJH website currently. The Barclay tank "starter kit" is, but the eyewatering price (£180) made my jaw drop. . . .

 

Well done on those wasp stripes, a very neat job! I cheated last time I did some, and printed alternating black and yellow lines onto transfer film using the computer, before cutting out what I needed which is ok for flat surfaces but not great on raised detail or curved corners! Yours look spot on.

Thanks for the kind words Martyn. There are a few irregularities on the stripes, but overall I'm pleased with the way they turned out.

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Hello Paul and Hello all,
 
I saw this post and thought I would like to throw my spanner in the works, I hope you and others reading this are not too dismayed, it may even save you from yourselves especially if you plan to take a micro to a show.
 
When I designed my first micro, Moxley I started with the Inglenook, drawing it on scraps of paper and working out the movements in my head. I soon realised that it would be deadly boring after an hour or so. Some people use a card system but I think even that would fail after a couple of hours.
 
I thought of an Inglenook with just one point and a traverser, hmmm, not much different!
 
2vu0kk8.jpg
But add a loco release on the other side of the traverser and the top and bottom traverser roads can be used for stock, the loco can get behind them and the operation goes further than my feeble brain can envisage. 
4 years later I still take the layout to shows and even now find different ways of doing things.
 
Alter the track plan slightly and you can have a kickback siding and use the traverser as a 'run round'.
 
70zymx.jpg
I made a single slip for this one but in 00 two points would easily go in place.
 
Traversers are easy to make from a few bits of wood making sure that it wobbles a bit in it's wooden groove and take that out with some adjustment screws at each end of it's travel.
 
30djy34.jpg
Two strips of wood for the groove and third strip under the traverser board and a simple tongue and groove at each end to keep it in place. This is made from 5mm ply and can be picked up with one finger and it will never warp.
 
Cheers
[edit] years too many of them

 

Hi Jim, thanks for your post. Your little O gauge shunting layout is quite an inspiration, and I'm very tempted to have a go at one myself!

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Jim Said: I overheard one lady say to her husband, 'If you made one of these (pointing at mine) you could keep it behind the sofa'.

 

 

She's obviously the Chair-man of that house ( sorry for awful pun ).

 

I too am tempted at O scale but must resist.

 

Jerry.

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I've been busy putting the final detail on locos and wagons this week, and doing a lot of weathering (not that I've had much experience in weathering stock). I finished off the coal tender for the Caley pug, adding step boards and handrails, and gave it and the loco a fair dusting of grime. The 02 shunter got a light dusting as befits a fairly new loco.

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I've been busy putting the final detail on locos and wagons this week, and doing a lot of weathering (not that I've had much experience in weathering stock). I finished off the coal tender for the Caley pug, adding step boards and handrails, and gave it and the loco a fair dusting of grime. The 02 shunter got a light dusting as befits a fairly new loco.

Hi I have been building the DJH 02 kit myself, however I have misplaced the screws that hold the coupling rods on, I have emailed DJH without success, can you remember what size they are so I can source some replacements. Thanks

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi I have been building the DJH 02 kit myself, however I have misplaced the screws that hold the coupling rods on, I have emailed DJH without success, can you remember what size they are so I can source some replacements. Thanks

Sorry Thindude, I keep meaning to look into this for you, but my metric tap and die set is down at the model railway club and I keep forgetting to bring it home!! Do you still need the answer?

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Had a visit from Chris Nevard the other day, doing a photo shoot of Brierley Canal Road and my other layout "Weydon-Priors" for possible articles in a future Model Rail magazine. It was a real pleasure watching him work. His photos show detail on the layout even I didn't know existed!!

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  • 5 months later...

I accepted an invitation to show Brierley Canal Road at our club's annual exhibition in November, and a few days later I remembered just how limited in operational interest the layout is, although chatting to interested viewers makes up for some of that. But it occurred to me that this might just be the impetus I need to add a few more boxes onto it. After considerable thought, this is what I came up with. Extending from the existing fiddle yard box (in which I had already installed a hole for future extension) the line will run through two more scenic boxes to another fiddle yard box, serving on the way a partly demolished workshop with a loading platform, a derelict canal wharf with a crane and a scrapyard which will partly take over the closed canal which at that point will be infilled. The joint between the two scenic boxes will be a road bridge with twin arches for the two tracks. I'm as yet undecided what to do with the space above the track to the right of the bridge. Now, the question is, can I get all this done in 11.5 weeks?

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