Pelham Street Posted August 19, 2017 Share Posted August 19, 2017 I am building a low relief station building in mount board, glued to a wood framed ply backscene. It will be the rear wall to a station with an overall roof, like the LSWR Bournemouth Central. The mopdel is in o gauge. I represents a building 450'0" long and 60'0" high. (10'0" long in o gauge0 I intend to cover the basic card structure in South East Finecast's English bond sheets and add plasticard detailing. What type of glue would readers suggest to stick this down with? The brick card is vacuum formed so may cause problems with some glues. I am making thebasic structure in mountboard to save on costs, as this is a rather large building. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miss Prism Posted August 19, 2017 Share Posted August 19, 2017 I think you if try to glue anything, you will run into significant differential temperature expansion between plastic, card, and wood. I suggest making the building boltable. (Sections of the building itself could also be bolted together, to ease construction.) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted August 19, 2017 Share Posted August 19, 2017 (edited) To glue the plasticard detailing to the paper cladding I would recommend an adhesive with a little flexibility for reasons given above by M. P. Perhaps Deluxe products 'glue and glaze' or similar would be preferable to a rigid setting glue. I have found it 100% reliable in securing window acetates behind window reveals. It has the advantage of drying perfectly clear, which Copydex, another adhesive with flexibility doesn't have. I would also recommend giving the rear face of the mount card a layer of plain card* stuck with the same adhesive to balance any tendency to warp as the glue under the embossed card dries. Doug * For this purpose, Packeto Cornoflako is ideal, with the smooth printed layer outwards. Edited August 19, 2017 by Chubber Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Siberian Snooper Posted August 20, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 20, 2017 I use double sided sticky tape in 4mm. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
66C Posted August 20, 2017 Share Posted August 20, 2017 I have used non-solvent based "No More Nails" type glue from a Pound shop for embossed plastic card finishes. Being non-solvent it does not attack the plastic and gives good gap filling for the rear of the plastic sheet. At joints or corners extra glue is used, allowed to extrude from the joint and then left to harden before trimming back and blending in to the embossed pattern to give a neat finish. Regards. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted August 20, 2017 Share Posted August 20, 2017 Copydex or other Latex glue, coat both surfaces allow both to dry and use as an impact adhesive Or coat one side, join both together and weigh down until the glue has set Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
old_grandpops Posted August 20, 2017 Share Posted August 20, 2017 I used double sided tape to stick plasticard paving slabs to card for platforms on my layout in the garage but I have found when it gets hot the plasticard wants to curl and therefore lifts away from the card. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
meil Posted August 20, 2017 Share Posted August 20, 2017 Good old PVA works just fine. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted August 20, 2017 Share Posted August 20, 2017 The one issue with PVA is if the plastic moves/expands it could come away from the PVA With double sided tape use a good quality tape, as cheap ones tend over time to dry out allowing the join to fail Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted August 20, 2017 Share Posted August 20, 2017 The one issue with PVA is if the plastic moves/expands it could come away from the PVA This was the issue had had with the two [and only] models I have built using plastic card over cardboard. It started at the corner joins and just refused any attempts at an unsightly repair. Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted August 20, 2017 Share Posted August 20, 2017 Evostick Timebond - works really well. All the brickwork in the above photo is vacuum formed HIP and was glued to the structures (KAPPA board for the building and the bridge, MDF for the brick staircase) with Timebond. Do coat both surfaces thinly and let it dry for at least 5 mins and it will do the job (it even allows repositioning providing it's not firmed down). All the brickwork on Dock Green was glued with it and nothing had ever come loose. In my experience PVA is not good on non-absorbent materials like plastics and will often lose it's grip as it dries out. It works by soaking into both surfaces and locking them together. Prove it to yourself, put a blob on a piece of scrap plastic. Give it a few days to dry right off and you should be able to peel it off easily. HTH Chaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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