Poor running Triang Hornby Hymek

[Paul26e]

Hi to all readers of RM Web

 

In my collection I have an old Hornby Hymek diesel. This is one of the pre ringfield motor models that has the worm gear driving gears on the centre of the axels.

I have not used the model much in the last years, but have recently dug it out and tried running it.

 

After cleaning the wheels and pick-ups I have got it running but very slowly! Could it need re-magnitizing?

 

Has anyone got any suggestions as to what could be done to restore its running?

 

Many thanks

 

Paul

['CHARD]

If you've a few quid spare, there's what looks like a suitable fix here:

http://www.ehattons.com/StockDetail.aspx?SID=33100

[stewartingram]

After cleaning the wheels and pick-ups I have got it running but very slowly! Could it need re-magnetising?

 

Unlikely, though possible. In my many years as a service agent for local shops, I can't really remember having to remag more than a handful of Triang motors. Mind you, you should NEVER remove the magnet on its own, it needs to have a magnetic circuit complete or risk loss of magnetism.

Probable easy-to-find causes could be dirty commutator slots, clean them out with a pin; or lubtication dried out, a spot of oil (no more) on axle ends, gears, and armature bearings will cure this. Don't forget the other bogie too. Keep the oil away from the commutator & brushes.

[naugytrax]

If the magnet is weak the motor is more likely to run too fast than too slow. Neodymium alloy magnets are available which will rejuvenate old Triang-Hornby motors when they get tired.

However, Stewartingram's suggestions are more likely to fix the problem here.

[Tim V]

It is quite likely the oil in the bearings has coagulated, try sluicing out the motor/axle bearings with lighter fluid or similar, and re-oil it with new oil.

[Paul26e]

Thanks for these replys.

 

Unfortunatly I carn't afford a new Heljan Hymek. Also I was looking to use the old Hymek as another loco my young sons can run and lessen the risk of damage to my new loco's!

 

"Probable easy-to-find causes could be dirty commutator slots" - please could it be explained what and where these are, then I will give this a go.

 

Many Thanks

 

Paul

[stewartingram]

Ok bare with me on this description, I'm not trying to insult your intelligence here!

 

The rotating part of the motor is known as the armature; it has a brass gear at each end driving the axles. The centre of the armature has the wire wound on it, and is enclosed by the magnet and its pole pieces. Between the windings and one gear is a copper ring divided into 3 segments; this is the commutator, the slots are between adjacent copper segments of the ring.

Access to the commutator is restricted by the brushes - brass strips hanging doen with small carbon bits rubbing on the commutator surface. These brushes carry the electrical current to the armature via the commutator. As the carbon is a soft, wearing material, its residue collects in the slots, and shorts them out electrically. This is made much worse, probably to the point of destruction, if oil (or anything like WD40) is allowed to come in contact here.

It is probably best to remove the brushes to give room to clean the slots. the brushes are held apart at the top by a wire spring. Note which leg of the wire has an insulating sleeve on it, and don't forget to replace it.

TIP - the brushes pivot against the black plastic moulding through which they hang. A common fault, caused by heat (and usually associated with slow running/dirty slots unfortuanately), is distortion of the moulding around the square holes that the brushes pass through. Usually this means the end for the moulding, but as it is now obsolete, you may have to improvise here if you have this problem? Perhaps a bit of plasticard stuck on to reshape the hole maybe? Have a look and see, get back to us if you are stuck. A picture might help too.