Jump to content




Photo
* * * - - 2 votes

TimC's 7mm BR Blue Workbench - JLTRT BR CCT





  • Please log in to reply
170 replies to this topic

#26 Pugsley

Pugsley

    Member


  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 2,243 posts
  • LocationA hip hop chip shop

Posted 28 December 2010 - 14:08

I now understand what you're saying, but I can't see it in these pictures:
http://stevesrailpic.../p46209944.html
http://www.johnwhite.../p46203561.html

I thought you meant that the light often shines though the black on models, which it doesn't so much on the real thing, although there is a hint of that on this pic:

http://47829.fotopic.../p53387059.html



#27 ozzyo

ozzyo

    Member


  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 4,841 posts
  • Location11 B

Posted 28 December 2010 - 14:48

[quote name='Pugsley' timestamp='1293545313' post='290828']
I now understand what you're saying, but I can't see it in these pictures:




This photo may help but will have to zoom in to the headcode box. You can make out what looks like a dark line down the center of the numbers and letters. The dark line is because the line is almost clear on the real thing.
D444-001.jpg
A second view
D444-009.jpg

I dont know if it could be done. As the real thing didn't tend to run with the headcode box's lit in day light. Or if they did you didn't see the light.

OzzyO.

#28 Pugsley

Pugsley

    Member


  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 2,243 posts
  • LocationA hip hop chip shop

Posted 28 December 2010 - 15:27

I see what you mean now - there's a faint, thin, line along the characters in the photos. It seems that not all blinds are the same though, the pic below is of D1661, North Star, which doesn't seem to have the same lines.

HCP.jpg

47's must have been different, as 47105 doesn't appear to have those lines either.

#29 ozzyo

ozzyo

    Member


  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 4,841 posts
  • Location11 B

Posted 28 December 2010 - 15:36

I see what you mean now - there's a faint, thin, line along the characters in the photos. It seems that not all blinds are the same though, the pic below is of D1661, North Star, which doesn't seem to have the same lines.

47's must have been different, as 47105 doesn't appear to have those lines either.




I remember the 47s having them, but it could be that these blinds are new ones and the ones in the 50 are original ones.

OzzyO.

#30 IC126

IC126

    Member


  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 143 posts
  • LocationBergen, Norway

Posted 28 December 2010 - 17:23

At least some of the blinds we have in the preserved class 126 have the wide front /narrow back fonts that Ozzyo describes. It's most obvious if you look at the blinds from the back side - I'll try to dig out some under-restoration photos in case they show this.

There are at least two generations of blinds in use - older printed cloth blinds and newer blinds on a white plastic type material. I think the plastic ones are the ones with the wide front /narrow back fonts.

I presume the reason is to make the wide characters best visible under (refected) daylight, but to avoid that (at night) that the light shining through blurs too much due to a flare-type effect?

#31 boxbrownie

boxbrownie

    Member


  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 951 posts
  • LocationPastyland.......twenty four months and counting.

Posted 28 December 2010 - 19:20

I must be as thick as two short buffer beam planks here, all I see is old worn out indicator blinds and new perfect blinds, I think I need to take a gander at some in preservation in the near future.

#32 TimC

TimC

    Member


  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 575 posts
  • LocationChipping Sodbury

Posted 11 January 2011 - 09:59

Thankfully, the Ashes are over and I'm just about recovering a normal sleep pattern.

The body sides/roof and floor plan preparation are progressing again. I'll probably get some Westdale door stop castings at the Bristol O Gauge show in a couple of weeks for the sides as opposed to using just a cut down stump of brass rod. Then I'd like to get the body in primer before assembly. The one matter I'm not decided upon is whether to fit the glazing before or after painting. The windows are drop in individual clear plastic untis and the window bars are represented by paint. Andy Siddall in his Class 108 thread fitted them first and masked them all off prior to painting. Hmmmm....

#33 LNERGE

LNERGE

    Member


  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 2,873 posts

Posted 11 January 2011 - 11:37

DSC06305.JPG This one may be from a 25.

#34 TimC

TimC

    Member


  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 575 posts
  • LocationChipping Sodbury

Posted 30 January 2011 - 17:30

Well at last the DMBS body went together this weekend. Having a chat with the Easybuild Gang at the Bristol O Gauge Show sorted a few of my queries and having a look at their completed model greatly helped too.

DSCN1500.JPG

No issues - just follow the instructions (I must remember that, as I'm very much of what do I fancy today modeller rather than following the well thought out path of Shawn's instructions!). I had not been looking forward to thinning the floor which the width of which needs to be reduced by just over 1.5mm. However, the instructions suggested using 'a scraping action with a sharp blade'. The plastic worked beautifully to that technique and in not time at all (well say 20 minutes) the floor was dropping neating into the body. The roof is a spring fit and not yet attached so likes to come away from where it should fit. The masking tape doesn't hold it very well and it'll be glued into place once I've got some primer on the inside of the body (hopefully tomorrow). The front end of the roof section then needs to be blended into the cab roof.

The only deviation form the instructions I took was with regard to the hand rails either side of the guards compartment door. I followed a 1980s photograph of my chosen DMBS E50381, I've no doubt that there were differences between the different batches. Detail wise, I've added the top centre marker light which is blanked off with filler and a plate above the draw hook which is present on quite a few of the DMBS vehicles. The door bump stops are very nice castings from Westdale.

The bogies were straight forward to build and I've still got to add the bearing end caps, end channels and brake gear to add but I'll do that once I've test run the chassis around the Avon GOG test track. I don't foresee any problems as it all goes together square and moves freely on it pivots.

After fitting and fettling the roof, it is on with the buffer beams (well so the instructions say.........)
  • Like x 1

#35 two tone green

two tone green

    Member


  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 3,485 posts
  • LocationHome, St. Davids West Wales. Work, most places.

Posted 30 January 2011 - 17:48

Looking good Tim, will be good seeing it run at the get together in Feb.

#36 TimC

TimC

    Member


  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 575 posts
  • LocationChipping Sodbury

Posted 01 February 2011 - 10:38

Primed the DMBS yesterday and got the roof on.

DSCN0003.JPG


DSCN1505.JPG


The primer clearly shows where more work is needed in filling and fettling the bodywork. There is quite a significant gap between the roof and the top profile of the non driving end that needs to be filled. This had be foxed when I was just looking at the fit of individual parts but was reassured after a chat with the Easybuild gang at Bristol. (mind you it says there is a gap that needs filling in the instructions....).

I also think that the vehicle looks so much better in grey but it'll look even better in blue!

Time to get some filler out.
  • Like x 1

#37 boxbrownie

boxbrownie

    Member


  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 951 posts
  • LocationPastyland.......twenty four months and counting.

Posted 03 February 2011 - 20:36

Tim, that inspired me to get out in the shed tonight, got one set of brake hangers and rodding fixed in position.....I think it will take one evening per axle! :lol:

#38 TimC

TimC

    Member


  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 575 posts
  • LocationChipping Sodbury

Posted 03 February 2011 - 21:06

David

When you're done, I'd be really interested in seeing how you have mounted/attached the hangers/brake blocks on the bogie itself.

My DMBS is now all filled and fettled but there is no chance of it getting on another coat of primer with this wind (the joys of living on the Cotswold escarpment).

#39 boxbrownie

boxbrownie

    Member


  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 951 posts
  • LocationPastyland.......twenty four months and counting.

Posted 03 February 2011 - 23:31

Take a look in Andy's thread.....I posted a piccie in there tonight....I extended the brake blocks with the hangers, these then just glue to the side members of the bogies...making sure they are inline with the wheel treads.

Heres the picture
power car brake hanger rodding.jpg

#40 TimC

TimC

    Member


  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 575 posts
  • LocationChipping Sodbury

Posted 04 February 2011 - 08:58

Hi David

Yes, I saw that. It was a top/plan view I was after (or actually an underside view). There isn't much room for the inside pairs on the bogie. I was interested to see how you had done it.

Cheers

#41 boxbrownie

boxbrownie

    Member


  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 951 posts
  • LocationPastyland.......twenty four months and counting.

Posted 04 February 2011 - 11:16

Hi David

Yes, I saw that. It was a top/plan view I was after (or actually an underside view). There isn't much room for the inside pairs on the bogie. I was interested to see how you had done it.

Cheers

Aha, yes....on the inside hangers I cut the spreader guide pegs off the bogie side members (as they do nothing once the it is all glued up) this then gave ample clearance to fit the hangers, well I say ample but you know what I mean :D

#42 IC126

IC126

    Member


  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 143 posts
  • LocationBergen, Norway

Posted 07 February 2011 - 20:20

After our Winter Work Week on the Class 126, I managed to get some good photos of the inside and outside of DMU headcode blinds - to avoid hijacking TimC's thread any more, I've put the info in the Prototype section for anyone interested.

#43 TimC

TimC

    Member


  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 575 posts
  • LocationChipping Sodbury

Posted 11 February 2011 - 13:37

Well, this week the DMBS successfully passed its test track run so I'm continuing with the bogie build and detail.

The brake blocks in the kit are a little basic. Boxbrownie has used some Slaters GWR shoes for his Easybuild Class 108 and I too ordered the same only to see Slaters GWR early pattern shoes at Bristol O Gauge Show. I preferred these latter ones so have used those - you also get 8 in the packet even though the label says 6!. The photo below hopefully shows all three options.


DSCN1521.JPG


I followed Boxbrownie's design for the hangers, however, mine are not engineered to his standard. For some reason, I thought that 3 packs of 10x 16BA nut/bolts (from Scalefour Stores) would be sufficient - a bit worrisome for an accountant! Now having thought about it, I need 48 nut equivalents - 16 shoes per car, the DMBS has hangers so 2 nut equivalents per shoe and the DCTL does not have hangers so only 1 nut required per shoe. I therefore have used the bolts to attach the shoes to the hangers for the DMBS and the nuts on the bottom of the hangers are glued to 0.6mm brass wire. I'll use some thin walled brass tube to connect across the bottom of the hangers to form the brake shaft. On the DTCL, when I get around to it, I'll use up the remaining14 bolts and there will be two shoes with nuts! (That sounds like a good accounting solution Posted Image ).

Here are the DMBS brake shoes/hangers. I'll probably paint them before attaching them to the bogie and I'll also fill the screw slots in the heads of the bolts too.

DSCN1518.JPG

I've decided that I'll get the bogies and buffer beams sorted on the DMBS and then I'll bring up the DCTL to the same stage before continuing with the interior and U/F detailing.

DSCN1520.JPG

One job I will do on the DMBS (and no doubt I'll have to do on the DCTL too in due course) is to trim back the roof at the non driving end. There is an overhang here as there was on the prototype. However, it looks a bit much when compared to photos of the actual non driving ends.

#44 two tone green

two tone green

    Member


  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 3,485 posts
  • LocationHome, St. Davids West Wales. Work, most places.

Posted 11 February 2011 - 17:09

It looked good going around the track. I agree about the over hang, it does look too much.

Not sure I'll get much chance to do things to my 108 this weekend.Too many things going on but hope to look at the 5mm red/ white LED's from DCC Supplies at leas so I know they will be ok.

Good to meet you the other night, great fun. Hope to be along to the next meet.

#45 TimC

TimC

    Member


  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 575 posts
  • LocationChipping Sodbury

Posted 11 February 2011 - 17:50

It looked good going around the track. I agree about the over hang, it does look too much.

Not sure I'll get much chance to do things to my 108 this weekend.Too many things going on but hope to look at the 5mm red/ white LED's from DCC Supplies at leas so I know they will be ok.

Good to meet you the other night, great fun. Hope to be along to the next meet.


Hi TTG

Yes, it was good to meet. My target for the next club meeting is to see if I can get both cars together for a spin round the test track.

#46 boxbrownie

boxbrownie

    Member


  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 951 posts
  • LocationPastyland.......twenty four months and counting.

Posted 11 February 2011 - 17:56

Tim.....it sure is a lot of nuts! I had to count it up a few times before I believed how many I would need :blink: :D

Looking at the early type GWR shoes I think they would have been my choice as well, but unfortunately I could not find any, and I mean ANY pictures of those slaters shoes at all.....not even on the Slaters site.

#47 TimC

TimC

    Member


  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 575 posts
  • LocationChipping Sodbury

Posted 11 February 2011 - 18:09

Tim.....it sure is a lot of nuts! I had to count it up a few times before I believed how many I would need :blink: :D

Looking at the early type GWR shoes I think they would have been my choice as well, but unfortunately I could not find any, and I mean ANY pictures of those slaters shoes at all.....not even on the Slaters site.


HI David

It wasn't even on the Slaters stand where I found the early style brake shoes at Bristol. I was looking for spare springs for buffers at the time and just came across them.

Anyway, all I've got to do now is get them fitted.....

#48 two tone green

two tone green

    Member


  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 3,485 posts
  • LocationHome, St. Davids West Wales. Work, most places.

Posted 11 February 2011 - 19:11

There is an outside chance I may have the powered car built by the next meeting and if it is I'll bring it along for a run.

Just need to remember the date now :rolleyes:

#49 TimC

TimC

    Member


  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 575 posts
  • LocationChipping Sodbury

Posted 11 February 2011 - 20:59

There is an outside chance I may have the powered car built by the next meeting and if it is I'll bring it along for a run.

Just need to remember the date now :rolleyes:


TTG - Second Wednesday of every month so 9th March. Hope to see you there.

#50 two tone green

two tone green

    Member


  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 3,485 posts
  • LocationHome, St. Davids West Wales. Work, most places.

Posted 11 February 2011 - 21:13

Quite right, well done.

TTG